Landowner

Probably easier but not when you don't realise the hand brake bracket is different until the box is all bolted in

Point taken , but I stay on the tarmac and the drum brake will outlast me as I don't use it that much, in fact it's been parked up broken for a few months so not used at all. Hope to get it sorted by the end of the month.

But the cost the cost the cost mine cost a few pence

Defender handbrake wouldn't fit my retro fitted Disco t/box . So this is what I did (probably been done before as it's easy enough) Looking at the box from the drivers side (r/h drive) and using the disco bracket, grind the two spacing tubes flush off the bracket (the ones at the back near the handbrake drum). Then turn the bracket anti clockwise through 180 degrees so the cable comes in at the top rear instead of the bottom front. Then swap the actuating arm for the Defender one (long bit at the top) you may have to flatten the crank out of it. Then fit the bracket using two spacer tubes at the back and maybe longer bolts. Should all work Ok, mine looks good to go but lost all the pics out me camera

I would be very interested to know how back pressure stops valve bounce. I don't know much about modern engines so can't quite get my head round it

Thanks for your support, the reason I'm angry is that I didn't want to spend any time or money fixing the vehicle as it was to be a replacement for my Isuzu pickup as an occaisional tow vehicle to be ready for use as and when required. For that reason I spent a LOT of cash on what I was told to be a good vehicle. I could have bought one for less than half the price and fixed it up but I'm no longer able to do the work due to ill health so I went for what I thought was a sound reliable Landy. More fool me as they say, I trust people too much and would never and indeed have never sold anything that is less than what it is supposed to be in fact I would service a car before I sold it so as it was as good as it could be, but that's me, the younger generation don't seem to care as long as they get yer money

Price of scrap has dropped like a stone so maybe fleabay for spares or repairs or just keep them if you have room, the scrap price will go up again one day Or just maybe bin em

A friend of mine bought a 90 soon after I bought my 110 and he paid a lot less for a much better vehicle. He commutes in it and to date has only had to fix prop u/j s after over 5000 miles. He too knew nothing about Land Rovers when he bought it but trusted the seller that it was a good honest vehicle. Anyway, the sprint ? The Banham owners or sprint owners site asked me about Yahoo but I,m not that computer literate to sign up . The one I have has a rusty mini floorpan and a rusty space frame so I was toying with the idea of using the chassis off a 70's sports car and shoving a V8 in I have a chassis and it needs to be shortened by 10 inches but apart from that everything will fit very nicely including a V8. The thing will be much stronger with a roll bar etc and it will go like f"..lippin eck. Would be nice to talk to sprint owners but not the purists who would say mine isn't a true sprint

I have used second hand bits where possible (t/box and diff) and I suppose I didn't really need to spend 200 quid on wheels and tyres but hey, it might as well be right now, there's no going back

As I said buyer beware and dont trust anybody

3 or 4 months but not a lot of the problems are mot fails except rust of course.

Yup, I'm new to Land Rovers and disabled so cant go crawling about underneath too much (lungs knackered) the vehicle was local to me and the vendor a true enthusiast. There was a wad of service history and receipts for everything that had been bought for it. He assured me everything was OK with it. The outriggers were packed with mud and a thin skin of rust on top but I never looked anyway just took the man on trust as he assured me that him and his father serviced it regularly. I spoke to his father who had done a lot of work on it including a new engine and he also said that it was A Ok. The seller was also a friend of my sons who also assred me that it was Ok and he was thinking of buying it. He is very supprised that it's in such a state and can't believe how bad it is. He is helping me with advice on repairs but that dont help much after parting with so much money. no oil leaking when I bought it by the way

Added up costs so far for repairing my 110 which I bought over 4 months ago and which lasted for 800 miles. It's been off the road over two months and it's not MOT ready yet but total spend so far including purchace has just passed the four thousand pound mark. After being assured by the seller that it was an excellent example I was dissapointed when things started to go wrong in the first few days. I persevered with it as you do, and tried to fix things as they went wrong but after using it only six times and having to be towed home twice I realised that I had been sold a load of junk. The chassis and body panels were packed with mud and there was damage to the rear prop and gearbox mount from offroading. The mud was damp and had rotted the bulkhead and one front outrigger. Both props were dry of grease and the rear gaiter full of water, the front gaiter was ripped off and the slider was red rusty. The seat boxes had rotted badly. After removing the sealant and ally patch panels from the bulkhead and pedal boxes I found that there was little metal left and lots of welding to be done. The front diff has a quarter or a turn in slack and the Transfer box failed after about five hundred miles. Transfer box failure was probably due to towing but I bought it for towing and I thought a Land Rover would be up to it. The engine overheated at first but that was due to thermostat fitted badly and wrong way round plus retarded timing. The gearbox is making a clacking noise in first, the brakes are rubbish, the LPG sometimes works and the carbs flood if left stood for more than a day. Oh and no LPG certificate. The rear step collapsed, the key stuck in the ignition, the battery cut off switch failed, the windscreen is marked badly I think by acid or something. The offside swivel bearings have collapsed and oil is pi555ing out of the swivel, all the door hinges are useless, the rev counter is faulty, the sunroof leaks badly as does the windscreen and the roof, the stainless exhaust has rotted and is due for replacement, and the rear wing stays were held in place with sealant. So if you are buying a Land Rover from an enthusiast then take someone with you who knows them inside out and don't believe a word the seller tells you especially if he has been off road with it. I know old Landys are not perfect but if you spend a lot of money buying it like I did you at least expect to be able to drive it for a while before trouble starts. So buyer beware as they say.

Make sure the timing has enough advance for gas, mine went considerably better on gas after advancing.

Yep, had a look and agree that it is the middle of the tyre. So as I see it, the body had narrow wheels with a centre line directly under the hub and the car that the chassis came from had wider wheels with a dish so the centre line would be a little further out. If I fit Minilites on with little or no dish then the track will be little different, maybe an inch each side so all in all it's looking good. Thanks all

My V8 Defender was the same giving about 9/10 on gas. I'm hoping for more after upping the T/B ratio from 1.4 which was in my opinion too low for motorway cruising. I also spent most of the time in 5th gear even around town with the 1.4 box so I'm looking for a vast improvement when I eventually get back on the road with raised ratios.

Two different answers there then. If I measure between the middle of each stub axle, maybe not that easy. Need to wait and see I think as I cant think how different things will be when fitted. As long as both manufacturers (BMC and TVR) measure from the same points then we should be OK

Not a Defender problem but any one know what is meant by track in technical details ? Is it the measurement from the hub centres or the hub extremities or from where the wheel sits on the hub or the outer edge of the wheel/tyre or something else? Need to know for a project car that I'm thinking of building with a rogue chassis, will it fit or will the hubs stick out too much.? the track on the doner chassis is 5 inches more than the kit car is suposed to have. I was hoping to fit different offset wheels and spats to overcome the problem if the track problem can be sorted. Not got the chassis yet, just the measurements. Ta

Stick a cheap rubber duck type on the roof and paint it white (if you have a white roof) you need some metal plate under it to help receiption and earth this back to the body/chassis.

Mine has two pipes , what is the second pipe for? I advanced mine untill it pinked then backed off slightly which was OK for petrol but had to give it about 5 to 8 deg (guess) more advance for gas, so I carried a 15mm spanner and altered it to my tipex marks accordingly when changing from petrol to gas or vice versa. Will do more experiments when I get back on the road.

ou can do it with 1.6 rods and the welder turned right down, but very thin stuff or rust is out without a mig. Mig makes a better weld 'cause you can keep it hot for longer in my opinion.

The metalic noises, squeaks, ticks, etc., can be made by a dry uj bearing breaking up, mine sounded like two dry washers rubbing together and wearing each other away. The noise disappeared when cruising or decellerating and was only evedent starting off and sometimes only in first gear, very strange..

Could be a front prop U/J , I had a similar noise on my 110

I would say not and venture the following. The air will not mix with the gas as the gas is in liquid form in the cylinder. Am I right?

What an excellent question B)