mrFrog

As said above, also make a careful note of where the washers, etc... go. I've lost the tube that goes behind the seatbelt swivel thing and having a hard time finding a replacement

Dunno why it was all over the place, probably pasted it in twice !!! (I've fixed it now) Retroanaconda Thanks, that's the linky linky

Looks good, I've been using lengths of tie-wraps with the end cut-off and linked together with some electrical tape. A few lengths taped together are usually enough for most jobs around the dashboard / engine bay

A compression test, dry and wet will tell you about the state of the rings and valve seating, it may also show headgasket weaknesses where two adjoining cylinders show low cylinder pressures. A leakdown test (Leakdown test) will give you more information but is more complex to perform and requires special adapters as well as an air compressor. You can also get fluid which you drop into the coolant which will change color if exhaust smoke is mixing into the coolant. Hope this helps.

Thanks, much appreciated. The screws I'm on about are near the seat belt and seat back adjuster. It seems that to get to the one by the adjuster, the adjuster cover and adjuster mechanism needs to come off the seat. The pozi bit I am using is this one Just ordered some of these extensions to make up for the ones I've damaged through torque loading These extensions, with the impact driver should do the trick I hope

Look up vmware... if you have a spare copy of windows 98, windows 2000, etc... you can install that inside vmware and run the older operating system within vista/xp. It's free too Saves messing up your vista pc, particularly with older software installing dodgy / old dll's. If you use vmware, the date change won't affect your pc, only the operating system running inside vmware. If I were you, I'd create a batch file that sets the date, then launches microcat and hey presto, one click does it all

A wizz-up thing that's a bit like an air gun but runs off batteries instead. Not this one, but one like this http://www.tooled-up.com/ShowImage.aspx?Ty...200&Save=46 But I see what you meant I should try... one of these http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/core/media/me...26fa75dc528a675 Screws holding seat back frame to the runners, the Pozi #4 ones. The front/middle ones are a doddle, the two rear ones are a pain, they are right next to the riser for the seat back and pretty hard to get to. I have a pozi#4 bit with an adapter for a 10mm hex/spanner, but my 10mm socket puts the bit at an angle, so I've tried using the small extension bar you get with most screwdriver sets, and destroyed three already. I've ordered new extensions (better ones), I might get one of these impact drivers, sounds like something that my toolbox needs anyway I've also put a fair amount of wd40 on the screws, hopefully, soaking overnight will have helped a little. Any other hints for those rear screws welcome

I guess anything that needs transporting eventually will go up in price, regardless of what it's made of.

Taken from bbc's web site Devil's Punch Bowl

Last time I tried an impact driver on similar screws (Door hinges), I damaged the screw head so much that I had to drill it out. That was only giving it a quick spin with the impact driver... Access to these screws is also very limited, I am not sure I could get the impact driver around there at all (unless I am missing something...).

No trying to fit some spare recaros I have. I have spent too long trying to remove the phillips screws that are at the back of the tubes that fit onto the runners (the ones that hold the seat back). If I continue, I expect next step is going to be a lot of swearing / breaking screw heads / angle grinding / etc... which will end in tears. So, much easier to remove the seats including runners and get another set of runners I am planning on getting a sheet of 3 or 4mm steel, bolt that onto the runners, and then bolt my seats on top of the sheet metal. Should have been an easy job, except for those four pesky screws... Looking on ebay, I found discovery runners and was wondering if they would fit the defender's seat box without additional drilling / strenghening, etc...

I have been trying to get the seats out of my 110, leaving the runners in and no luck. The two screws at the back, near the upright for the seat back just won't budge, so I need just runners that bolt onto the seat base. Found some cheap ones on eBay for a Discovery 200/300... would they work on the 110 ? Thanks Greg

Stamp on the inside of the wheel says 850kg (not absolute max I guess, but, recommended max) So 850kg is not enough (technically), they are therefore unsuitable (technically).

Have fun guys, would love to join in (would be our first time), but we've got plenty to do on Trucky to get him/her ready for the big trip to corsica in less than two weeks. Take a few pictures please

I've got to take the wheel off the door this week end to fit a swing carrier, I'll try and remember to weigh it.

That's the most worrying thing to a certain extent. I am quite happy driving around on the basis that they are thought/known to be strong enough, not sure I want to risk paying out for the rest of my life should the worst happen and my insurer decide not to honor our policy... I'll give them a call in a few days and clearly state they are tornado wheels, ask them for written confirmation of update on policy and take that as confirmation they are happy with them. If they grumble, I'll get them changed to the cheapest wheels I can find for now.

Thanks, this is useful information. Not sure any wheel would take to a six inch hit at speed without damage. Main use for the defender is on-road, with 4 people max, no significant load or towing. A little off road is planned, rocky road, low speed up/down hill, I am sure they will be fine. Sounds like I need to find a replacement though, for piece of mind if anything.

Just an idea which works for me, if you have discs for an old operating system like win98, download and install vmWare, you can run win98 within Vista through vmWare and hey presto anything works and is blindin' quick.

What is L2B ? London 2 Brighton ???

I've managed to get a wheel nut off with a chisel, don't know if there's enough space there to do it.

Too much information, far too much :o

Both dealers I called said that provided the wheels are land rover wheels, they will be fine, but, worth getting it in writing if you can. My next stop was going to be land rover customer service. Still bugs me that while I am getting 100% positive from the horse's mouth, plenty of people here and elsewhere quote problems with insurers... Oh, and according to stamp on our wheels (ANR5307), they are tornado, which I think are the same as freestyle, just different name...

I've just called dealer number 2 (ascot), and they stated that provided they are land rover wheels, they will be fine... Close up picture of our wheels, they sort of look like freestyle, but they're different... the spokes are wider than the freestyle ones, they look chunkier. We're with privilege (never thought I'd ever say that ), I doubt they would know/care that much in all honesty... But, I don't want to be driving a vehicle that's unsafe, regardless of what the insurance companies think It would seem that the decision is borderline based on your numbers.

I've just called one dealer (reading) who is happy that they are fine on a 110CSW provided they are genuine original land rover wheels... I am not bothered about their look and would happily replace them for something else, just don't feel like forking out £££'s on unnecessary wheel changes...

I've just called Andy at AJS4x4 (AndyS@AJS4x4.co.uk), threatening to spend money on new rims, and he said that he didn't know of a single Land Rover wheel which wasn't rated for the 110 and that the freestyles were perfectly safe. So, conundrum, who to believe (not that I disbelieve anyone, you all sound very knowledgeable).