Tear it up

Just bought a '99 V reg TD5. Absolute bargain even if I do say so myself. Quite a few bills with it, one that caught my eye was one that cost £2000 2 years ago for springs, brakes, intercooler pipe work etc etc. Bought it for £2995. My questions are is it worth getting it remapped? What are the pros and cons of doing this? Roughly how much will it cost and where's the best place to go?

Mines a 99/00 td5 tc on an X and with 58K its getting a remap asap. The removal of the centre box is a good cheap mod, removing the EGR will help i've been told then a later 02 onwards intercooler as i've been told there larger. Good price that, whats the miles? It's a GS 5 seats 115000 miles with a set of 5 18" alloys and comes with a set of 5 16" alloys as spares

Truck looks good. Just one thing, do you think that's the best place to mount the shoulder harness strap fixing point? I would of thought that if you were to roll, which I hope you don't, and the sides caved in the strap would come loose and you wouldn't be held tight in the seat. When we used to prepare the rally cars we used to mount the shoulder straps and the crutch strap to the seat bars where the seats were fixed to. Just a thought

Just bought a '99 V reg TD5. Absolute bargain even if I do say so myself. Quite a few bills with it, one that caught my eye was one that cost £2000 2 years ago for springs, brakes, intercooler pipe work etc etc. Bought it for £2995. My questions are is it worth getting it remapped? What are the pros and cons of doing this? Roughly how much will it cost and where's the best place to go?

So I take it that the disco one are not the same then ?

I purchased from ebay the other day a salisbury rear axle for £51. Decided I was going to do a rear disc conversion after reading this thread. All was going good, stripped down to axle tubings and started the rebuild. Was going to use disco rear hubs on the drum brake stub axle as this is the conversion that I thought was done. Looked into it today and realised that you can't fit the rear stub axle from the disco due to a sticky out bit on the back. When lined up with the original stub from the drum brakes, the drum brake stub is alot longer. All well and good until I went to put the rear hub assembly on and realised it won't pull up to the bearings, hence it was a bit like a cat up a back alley. Has anyone got any experience with this type of conversion as I see that 'Delete' hasn't been on the forum since x-mas day. My main questions are what stub should I be using and what hub should I be using?

Started work on salisbury rear drum to disc conversion today. After getting a bit carried away with a seized bolt and a very large lump hammer I seem to of damaged the drive flange . I've placed an ad in the wanted section but don't hold much hope that someone's got one lying about, so has anyone got any suggestions as to the best place to get one apart from land rover themselves? Also would like to check the diff ratio as can't seem to see it stamped in the diff. Other than counting the teeth on the crown wheel and pinion, is there a way of telling and where should I be looking?

Surprise I didn't realise that insurance companies had their own facebook pages.

:ph34r: I know all about him, I know where he lives lol I think I might have it I will look it out.

Totally agree with the above. I work for the highways agency and they have had the gritters out every day on the M4, A34 trying to clear the backlog of snow with the ploughs and trying to use minimal amount of salt. It's all well and good for you to think that the local authorities are sat back doing nothing when the truth of the matter is that the highways take priority over local authorities as they share the same salt supplies. So would you rather have slippy back roads or multiple fatalities on the motorways?

Ask the c u next tuesdays that nicked mine

CLICK This was on another thread the other day, different country, but still the same company.

The only pictures I have is when it was in Abingdon pay and play day covered in mud. It has boost alloys and standard road tyres. 300 tdi auto, Arden, beige interior. Sorry, but not much more that I can say. :(

In the early hours of sunday morning my Land Rover Discovery 1, reg P460 HMK in dark green went missing from my drive way (good birthday present to wake up to). Disinguishing features are a dent on both rear quarters, rebel steering guard and a high cut front bumper. Any information welcome.

Well if that's what you think then maybe this one's for you Just for you and I hate to have to say it but I think Les maybe on to something

How about this one then ? LOL

Found this. Would you pay that sort of money or am I the only one that thinks that it's a crime against Land Rovers? PINK

In a way yes in many more ways no. I work for a niche team for the highways agency called ISU (Incident Support Unit) not to be confused with the road wombles (HATO). Our main job desciption is to respond to all incidencies on the motorway, report all defects and clear all lanes of debris and defects. Our fall back duties do include reinstating marker posts, cleaning of road side furnishings, traffic counting and generally trying to find somewhere to skive

And I know this how? I A: work for the highways agency B: my fall back work this week has been reinstating marker posts and I work with the most oldest person who was probably around when the M4 was built in kilometres and changed later to miles, but the marker posts were never changed to miles as the cost would be too excessive, especially as you lovely car tax payers pay my wages

But is it? This is what the highway code states, but the truth of the matter is that there are 10 marker posts between the emergency telephones, there is 100 metres between each marker post thus adding up to 1000 metres which is 1 kilometre which is therefor not 1 mile. Good old highway code never any room for a margin of error

Here's one for all you people that got 30 and believe that the highway code is always right. How far apart are the emergency telephones on our british motorways?

yes and no the truck is going to be used for off road and on road i'm going to use anti lag. How ALS works When the driver lifts his foot from the gas pedal the ignition timing is altered with sometimes 40° or more of delay (retard) and the intake air and fuel supply mixture is made richer. The inlet butterfly is kept slightly open or an air injector is used to maintain air supply to the engine. This results in air/fuel mixture that keeps getting in the combustion chambers when the driver no longer accelerates. The ignition being delayed, the air/fuel mixture reaches the exhaust tubes mostly unburned. When the spark plug fires, the exhaust valve is starting to open due to the ignition delay mentioned above. Additionally, the exhaust temperature being extremely high, the unburned fuel explodes at the contact of the exhaust tubes. Luckily the turbo sits right there and the explosion keeps it turning (otherwise it would slow down since its intake, the exhaust gases, is cut-off). The effect is vastly lower response times with some downsides: * A quick rise of the turbocharger's temperature (which jumps from ~800°C to the 1100°C+ region) whenever the system is activated * A huge stress on the exhaust manifold and pipes (mounted on a street car a bang-bang system would destroy the exhaust system within 50-100 km) * The turbo produces significant boost even at engine idle speeds * The explosions which occur in the exhaust tubes generate important flames which can, sometimes, be seen at the end of the exhaust tube * Reduced engine brake The ALS effect is mostly dependent on the air allowed into the engine, the more air supplied the more the ALS effect will be noticeable. Consequently ALS systems can be more or less aggressive. A mild ALS will maintain a 0 to 0.3 bar pressure in the inlet manifold when activated whereas, when inactive, the pressure in the inlet manifold with the throttle closed would be in the region of -1 bar (absolute vacuum). Racing ALS versions can maintain a pressure of up to 1.5 bar in the inlet manifold with the throttle closed. While the systems mounted in Toyota and Mitsubishi racing cars are relatively smooth and noiseless those fitted in Ford and Subaru cars are much more noisy and aggressive. The bang-bang system owns its name to the loud explosion noises one hears whenever the driver lifts off. Most racing implementations have user selectable anti-lag settings depending on the terrain, usually three settings can be selected by the driver going from mild to very aggressive. I believe with this system you should be able to run a manifold pressure of about 0.75 of a bar on closed throttle vastly reducing the throttle response time and reducing the amount of lag which is normally associated with turbos. And as for nos I believe the G3 link also can control nos fridgefreezer

Deffinately just a play thing. It's one of those things that when you finish a project you get that nice warm sense of wellbeing feeling and then decide to start modifying even more. I am under no illusion that this is going to be easy. Just been back and looked at link website and I think I might just have to spend the extra money and get a G3 link. Has anyone had much dealing with these in this type of application? I have on other applications like Subarus where everything is there for you. Some of the main benefits for the link are you can control V8 on coil, 4D fuel mapping, does away with air flow sensors and if using a gm boost control solenoid will control all boosting for turbos. You can also get the upgraded model with a 5 bar map sensor but I think that's a bit too much for what I'm looking for.

Exactly, this is why I have been speaking to fridgefreezer about management for the engine. I used to do alot with rally cars, like mapping, anti-lag and so I am quite capable and understand the importance of fueling and turbo pressures through rpm. We used to use g3 links from thaw racing, but these are a bit pricey.

The ones I'm thinking of using are a similar design to the Peugeot ones, where the waste gate is operated from the inlet vacuum. As for pressure wise, I'm not one of these ones that wants to put silly pressures through an engine, just enough to give it that extra bit of poke.