[2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?]

15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

A lot of the noise in a Series is the transmission, a bit of soundproof foam round/under the tunnel and seatbox makes a huge difference.

The ambulance got a bit loud (and hot) when we fitted the overdrive but less than 2sqm of 20mm foil-backed foam under the tunnel/seatbox and you can have a civilised conversation at 80mph. The V8 helps with that

And an autobox will help even more 😉

Anyway back OT, Gazzar did you figure out a way to use the flywheel for the trigger wheel?

[Disco V8i Based Sahara Kit Build]

There were one or two weren’t there.....😬

[RRC to 1986 Parts Manual]

17 minutes ago, steve b said:

here you go

Steve b

 

Thanks Steve, if I need a couple of more pages from the same section would you be okay to upload them too please?

Joe

[RRC to 1986 Parts Manual]

4 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Don't have the manual (do have an early Haynes though), what do you need?

Thanks John but I need the part numbers for the swivels etc on the earlier models like this from the later ones.

[RRC to 1986 Parts Manual]

Does anyone have a parts manual for the RRC models up to 1986 either electronically or a paper one that they could photograph some pages from for me?

[RRC Front Axle Parts Interchangeability]

38 minutes ago, Snagger said:

It depends on the generation.  300Tdi and later have short stub axles and narrow hubs, which by definition means the rear half shafts are shorter and the front stub shafts are shorter.  They also had the thicker half shafts with 24 splines, while the earlier axles had 10 spline shafts.  None of that is interchangeable.

I don’t know if the later stub axles and shafts will fit an early swivel housing, but I have my doubts.  I also have no idea when LR introduced a seven bolt swivel, but I suspect it’s at the same time as the rest of the changes - introduction of the 300Tdi, which I think was 1994.

Ok cheers.

I can still get the early bits it’s just that they’re a bit more expensive and I’ll probably have to buy them new rather than used.

[RRC Front Axle Parts Interchangeability]

1 hour ago, Snagger said:

I think different generations of vehicle used different calliper bolts, early being some sort of imperial thread and later a metric thread.  You can’t mix and match as the bolts will have to fit the callipers snugly, not just the threads.

Vented callipers are the same as non vented for that age, just using a spacer block and longer bolts (4 per calliper) to join the halves.  You can swap them, add the spacer or remove it, all as needed.

Since the thickness of the hubs varies with generation, I imagine the brake discs are also specific to the age of vehicle.

That’s what I was getting at. If the swivel housing that goes with the 7 bolt swivel ball has different calliper threads then it’s just a case of matching the calliper to that but will the swivel housing off a 7 bolt swivel ball fit onto a 6 bolt swivel ball or are the top and bottom swivel pins different?

Reason for asking is that used parts for the later 7 bolt axles are much more common and a bit cheaper than the same parts of an earlier axle, up to 1987 I think so if I can get a new 6 bolt swivel ball and fit later components to it then that would be great.

Stub axles will be the same length and have the same bearing points in the hub won’t they?

 

[RRC Front Axle Parts Interchangeability]

Will the hub assembly components (swivel housing, stub axle, drive shafts etc) that are mounted to a later 7 hole pattern swivel ball fit to an earlier 6 hole pattern swivel ball? I’m thinking of things like upper and lower bearings and pins.

Is the stub axle bearing on the inside of the swivel ball flange the same for both?

In other words was it just the axle casing bolt pattern that changed?

Are the solid and vented discs also interchangeable if the matching callipers are used? 

[Paintman primer drying time]

I tried to call Paintman several times to ask this question and eventually sent them an enquiry through their website which is still unanswered. I had no option but to wait for it to dry off overnight before recoating.

Quite annoying lack of service to be honest given the amount I’ve spent with them recently.

[Poly bush kits]

Did that kit come with the 8 washers? If so which bush and shackle do they fit between?

[Suspension Mods for Faster Off Road?]

7 minutes ago, WesBrooks said:

Yeah I hate auto correct but even with that off my thumbs and touch screens still aren't on best terms!

Cheers for the link. I guess the side effect of caster correction is it increases the angle on the prop shaft joints.

Saw the caster angle and had instant recollection on frame angles on my road bike. I got nasty wobble on my steel frame bike if I hit over 35 on a decent. Caster angle significantly out of spec may well be a significant factor in the infamous death wobble.

Edit: as in caster angle reducing or worst case going negative.

You could maintain the diff nose angle by clocking the swivel flange to the axle casing but you might need to weld up some holes on the axle casing and redrill them.

[Bare metal, paint or grease between leaves?]

22 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Don't do that! I'll have them! I need one for my 109, the curl for the bush isn't straight. Cheap carp. 

Ok if they don’t work out for me then they’re yours👍

[Bare metal, paint or grease between leaves?]

1 hour ago, Gazzar said:

Are they the 2 plus helper? Turned out well. 

Yes. I was thinking that the ends that I trimmed may be cranked to provide more curve to the spring so it will be interesting to see how it looks when they’re fitted particularly the ride height.

If it doesn’t look right then they’ll go in the skip.

[Poly bush kits]

I can’t call Dingocroft to ask as they are closed so will keep looking.

[Bare metal, paint or grease between leaves?]

Painted now so will apply some grease before fitting.

[Poly bush kits]

1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:

You see, I'd say the opposite. Bushes are one of the really critical items. 

I wouldn't touch the 'Orange' ones

There are some 'Purple' ones that are ok

Just to clarify this, I wasn’t referring to Floflex. Been there, done that, never again.

It’s these

https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Full-set-Ser1--Ser2-and-SWB-Ser3-ZZPOLYDYNASET04.html#SID=160

Anyone got any experience of them?

[Poly bush kits]

55 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:

Britpart yellows don't tend to last - they tend to crumble

Bearmach use an old type of SuperPro bush, still made for them by SuperPro; but they don't make the metal bits

SuperPro are without doubt the best - but they aren't cheap

 

No, and to be honest, for everyday road driving, I think they don’t represent value for money. For more extreme work or towing etc then yes, maybe.

Ive found some ‘dynamic’ compound ones that are mid range in terms of price and which might be ok.

Only problem is thet they’re orange 🤨

[Bare metal, paint or grease between leaves?]

19 minutes ago, Wytze said:

They are parabolic, are they not?  Then just paint them

Yes but the leaves still make contact in a couple of places at the ends. My thoughts are to just paint them too as that’s how they come as standard and I’ve never heard of parabolics being greased but thought I’d ask anyway before I reassemble them.

That said, the paint won’t last long either 🤷‍♂️

 

[Bare metal, paint or grease between leaves?]

As per title, what have you found that works best when refurbishing leaf springs?

[Poly bush kits]

Anyone used these Britpart poly bush kits? Any good or are there better ones out there? I prefer the ease of fitting with these so don’t want to stick with the original bushes.

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/dc7103-britpart-swb-black-polyurethane-bush-kit.html

[Leaf and coil sprung axle differences]

27 minutes ago, Snagger said:

Should be the same as using Defender axles - he did use early defender hubs and discs, which defines the position of the callipers and would be the same as on a coiler axle.

From that thread:

“Update.............

Just had a hard lesson today on my setup!!

Standard wheels will not fit!! how did i discover it? well the hard way!

Got a puncture this morning on my way to work, stopped at the road side to change it................. jacked up, changed wheel......... the damn thing was jammed up against the caliper................grrrr.................... had to remove a rear wheel, to install it in the front and my standard spare at the rear...........

Lesson learnt............

Standard rover wheels will not fit my front disc conversion...............................

G”

[Leaf and coil sprung axle differences]

3 hours ago, Snagger said:

Big66, have you asked Gremlin about his disc conversion?  It is very neat and strong, uses standard Series swivels and Defender hubs, discs and callipers, and was home made with a relatively simple bracket milled by an engineering workshop to his design.

I did but I believe the wheel choice is very limited with this conversion. Standard wheels will not clear the callipers for example.

[Leaf and coil sprung axle differences]

2 hours ago, Anderzander said:

Has this been posted ? https://yrmit.co.uk/workshops/defender-discovery-1-rrc-coil-spring-to-series-axle-leaf-sprung-conversion-front-rear/

I think it’s been discussed as a general coil axle to leaf spring conversion option. Unfortunately, I need to retain my series axles and in any case I don’t want to fit coil axles to my project. I’m more focussed on ways to graft coil hubs onto leaf axles but the discussion is throwing up a sorts of useful advice and information for others with different aims 👍

[Leaf and coil sprung axle differences]

53 minutes ago, Wytze said:

This what i'm trying to do is just a thing in my head.  If i don't try, it will allways be there. If i try and it does not work, or i would not trust it's stenght.  it will get scrapped.   I can allways find a set of swivels again and go for a different way.  We can learn a lot from just trying.  And making mistakes are good lessons.  

When i build something,  i need it to be safe and strong.      opinions from others are allways welcome, ten know more then one.   But , just saying that will never work , sounds just to negative to me.  

Same here. I love a challenge and enjoy the discussion but there’s a line for me that I won’t cross.

[Leaf and coil sprung axle differences]

8 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Coilers are definitely 3 degrees, and series is stated as 3 degrees here, from the workshop manual:

 

Cheers, I suspect that the author of the post I read initially was getting diff nose angle and caster angle confused. Perils of the interweb...😐