Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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32 minutes ago, steve b said:
90/110/Defender speedo fitting is different to the S3
cheers
Steve b
At the speedo end?
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Defender guys.
Is PRC6021 the correct early speedo cable to fit to the LT230 and do the early speedometers have the same push on plastic cable connection in the rear as the series ones?
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Mine will be a V8 and is tax and MOT exempt but I still get it tested. You might argue that a vehicle that isn’t used much could be higher risk than one that’s used regularly and has all its moving parts free. I’m thinking more of sticking brakes etc and perishable items such as brake lines and hoses.
Just a thought.
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Pretty sure that’s not happening. Looks like I’ll need a defender cable...
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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Agreed. The other thing that winds me up is trading a car in to get a more economical one. Spending £10k to save £500 a year. Then trading in again in a couple of years time!
Bugger it. Buy a V8 and run it forever. Still cheaper, and easier on the environment.
That’s exactly my way of thinking and the motivation to build my V8 auto. Once that’s done the TD5 is going 👍
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15 minutes ago, western said:
The drive gear is already in the transfer box, just remove the transducer connect the cable & check it against a gps speed reading, if its way out, try the blue 20tooth gear as used in 90/110 transfer box for 750 or 235/85 tyres.
Cheers, yes the existing drive is still there and it’s a brown one. I may just swap it for the Defender one anyway whilst it’s out of the box. Question is though will my series speedo cable connect to the Defender drive gear? I’m sure I have my old cable knocking about somewhere so I’ll try and dig it out unless someone who’s already fitted a Defender box into their Series can clarify?
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On a similar topic, does anyone know if there is a speedo cable that can be used with an LT230 and a Series 3 speedometer?
My transfer box (off a Disco) had the electronic sender fitted to the speedo drive gear so presumably I will need to change that for another mechanical drive gear off a Defender on 7.50 size tyres and 3.54 diffs?
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Not sure if this has already been muted but could you fit an adapter in place of where the cable operated heater valve goes on a 2.25? On the picture of the 2.5 it looks like the valve is removed and the heater hose goes direct to the head. If you could make an in-line adapter then a sender could easily be screwed into it.
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5 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
The map sensor, I think that could go on one of the untapped bosses on the manifold.
Could the air temp sensor go on the series swan neck?
The last one I fitted went on the inlet manifold but that was for a Cosworth engine in my Capri and there was already a tapped port for it. I believe as close to the inlet as possible would be preferable. Remind me what ECU you will be using to run the engine, is it MS?
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29 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
I'll have to tap into something to get a reading. Maybe the heater take off?
Thanks, I'll order one up today.
Are there any other block sensors or similar that it would be smart to look at now? Cam and crank I think I have a solution for.
Not sure if you’ll need it with your kit but the only other one that springs to mind is possibly an air temperature sensor.
And a MAP sensor...?
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Getting an unlocked ECU to run a stand-alone THOR engine is simple enough but then don’t you end up having to modify the wiring loom to get it all to run? Isn’t this one of the reasons (besides tuning capability) that people opt for the MS kit?
As I understand it it’s not simply a case of putting power to the unlocked ECU is it? On the Tornado website they state that they can provide wiring details but that’s as far as it goes and I can’t find a pin out diagram to see what exactly is involved.
I’ve never come across a comparison between the performance of an unlocked standard ECU against a ‘standard tune’ (for general road use) MS kit but it would be interesting to see.
I think having this sort of information available would allow people to make more informed decisions as no doubt there are pros and cons to each system.
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Problem I have is that I’d like to try and keep the 45 year old patina if possible whilst protecting things like the steel bulkhead that are showing early signs of light surface rust. If I repaint the whole vehicle then it will take a good few years to lose it’s fresh look.
The alloy panels aren’t too bad to look after but the bulkhead and front panel will take a bit more thought. I thought that the Owatrol would do the job so I might give it a try as the car will be garaged when not in use. I can paint the internal surfaces but just keep the external ones as they are and reapply as and when.
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Yes the additional room for a coolant hose was also one of the reasons I removed the bracket.
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Yes, I won’t be needing it and it looked a bit daft with the empty bracket although the coffee table idea was floated for a while 😊
I need to get to a rolling chassis stage first before I can install the engine and order the MS from Nige👍
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I’m just behind you with the same engine. Will be watching with interest.👍
How much material did you need to take off the pulley face?
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Does anyone have any experience or feedback of using Owatrol oil to preserve bodywork patina whilst providing anti corrosion protection to exposed ferrous metal surfaces such as the bulkhead?
Im really in two minds whether to paint or preserve 🤷♂️
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Looks very similar to the slag deposits that were left over from an old ironworks that we had up here on the North Wales coast.
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I replaced the pressure switch about a year before you bought it.
Brakes were great on it and it had both TC and ABS👍
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12 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
I'm struggling to remember if it is on my LR or the Morris 1000, but I think the pin in the leaves is offset, meaning if you fit the spring the wrong way round, you would get this problem.
You have a Morris 1000?
Respect 👍
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I’ve found some figures online of both 55” and 56” WF - WF but neither is confirmed.
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On 6/1/2020 at 8:58 AM, WesBrooks said:
Thanks, will do that.
Pump, block, and controller unplugged. No front loom or fuseboxes left on the vehicle! 🙂
Are you reusing the brake system Wes?
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Is there any chance that someone has a front and rear axle sat in their garage from which they could take the hub wheel face to wheel face measurements for me please?
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Off topic I know but I remember fitting a Di engine to a 109 many years ago. Straightforward enough as a conversion and pulled the vehicle along quite well but one of the noisiest engines I’ve come across in a Landrover.
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On 4/15/2020 at 11:19 PM, Landrover17H said:
Thanks, I've been doing homework on this, and it seems late S3 hubs also have a double-lip seal. Appears these seals go on to be found on coilers. 24 Spline (I think) I'd find a set and if they can be made to fit yet these appear to be unobtainium. I'm getting extremely fed-up with this! I'd like to put these in to get the double-lip seal, and have done. Not sure what that extra 4-5mm does, and why it should make a difference, but I'll push the seal in anyway. I'll use an old seal. Here's the 'official tool'.
Am I the only one who thinks £60 odd quid for that is a tad expensive? 😳
Defender speedo cable
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Oh bugger!