Bigj66

Anyone care to offer some thoughts on the best fuel pump arrangements for the efi based on past experience? Won’t be used for serious off-roading so crazy angles not anticipated unless it all goes belly up 😐

What sort of turnaround times are Syncro quoting at the moment for a rebuild?

Is that the RRC box?

Yeah, nobody wants to disappear down an internet bum hole do they? 😬 I won’t go for the relay hole option as it will restrict the space available for a larger rad which will be more important with the V8.

I’m not sure some call centre bod on the end of the phone in Swansea will be able to give a clear and concise answer other than the official line in the website if I’m honest. I’m guessing that in the real world it would come down to the judgement of an inspector as to whether both the letter and the spirt of the law was being complied with. I’ve some experience of this from a past occupation and have no doubt that the inspectorate will have some form of internal guidance that helps them make the correct interpretation of the rules. Similar to what MOT testers have at their disposal. I note that there is no reference in the points list to brakes, just the axle whereas there is a specific reference to steering. It could be argued that with a brake upgrade, even to larger drums, the original ‘axles’ have been retained but the brake system, a separate component that is bolted to an axle, has been altered. If both the steering and brake systems are considered components of the ‘axle’ then it’s also interesting to note that one component (steering) is highlighted in the list as a specific modification but not the other. If axle included steering then why is steering highlighted separately? In theory, applying the rules strictly, any axle modifications from the original specification including, polybush suspension, spring rates, drum brake/cylinder sizes, diff ratio changes, locking diffs and even wheels and tyres would result in the points for the axle being lost. If this were the case then it would put the aftermarket parts industry out of business overnight so I believe that some flexibility and discretion has been built into the system otherwise there will be thousands of classic cars running about on Q plates. As always, the devil is in the detail and having done a comprehensive search I can say with some confidence that there doesn’t seem to be any additional guidance other than what is on the DVLA website available to vehicle owners to ensure they comply with the requirements. Some classic car websites offer their own interpretation of the rules but that too is still very subjective. I think it’s important to draw a distinction between the alterations allowed for in the MOT exemption and those related to vehicle registration but it’s another good example of how confusing it can become and, as has rightly been pointed out, what consequences that confusion can lead to for the owner, potentially losing their vehicle. In my own case, even though I believe the proposed modifications allow me to retain the original registration if I apply them all, the question of the auto gearbox fitting into the SWB is still 50/50 and my gut feeling tells me this may not end up being possible without the significant bodywork modifications I wish to avoid. I’ve still some measurements to take to see what the impact is on the transmission tunnel and bulkhead though but if it turns out that I can’t use the auto box then the standard gearbox will be retained and the discussion of RAV is over.

I’m not sure how what I’m proposing to do with my vehicle differs from the hundreds of others that have had engines and boxes changed for instance TDi and V8s. R380/LT77 gearboxes, 3.54 diffs, disc brakes and power steering? As long as I retain sufficient points and the work that gets done is safe then I don’t see an issue.

I’ll take my chances with the axles as I don’t think gearing, brake or half shaft upgrades affect originality. I don’t think DVLA will lose any sleep over a couple of CV joints either.

I’m keeping the axles as leaf sprung except changing the front for a Stage 1 axle to get the CV joints if the auto box will work and I end up with permanent 4wd. If the box conversion won’t work then I will look at an alternative manual box and may even keep the standard Series one with a traditional conversion plate. Then I’d definitely need to upgrade the rear half-shafts but keep the standard front axle. Disc brakes will be the Heystee kit on the front (if it fits a Stage 1 axle, not sure on that yet) and their rear disc kit too. What I end up with will depend on how the engine and auto box combo sit on the chassis and I won’t really know for sure until I have them stripped and on the workshop floor. I’ve still got things like the brake pedal assembly (probably Defender), throttle pedal arrangement, and radiator (possibly Defender diesel or made to measure) to finalise again, based on what ends up sat in front of me.

3.9 V8 auto (maybe), 3.54 diffs, original axles, discs for safety, existing parabolics, 6.5” LR rims, 235/85 tyres, P38 power steering conversion. Not near IVA territory with any of that. Nothing different to what lots of other folk do to bring their Series up to cope with modern day driving conditions. I could buy a Defender or Range Rover quite easily and avoid all the work but it wouldn’t look like a Series Landrover would it or be much fun?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far, they are really helpful and appreciated. As you can probably tell I’m spending quite a bit of time upfront with the research as I want to get as many parts ready as I can to reduce the length of time to do the work (although we’re still talking months of work) Engine, box 🤞, diffs, axles, brakes - discs all round, suspension, wheels, tyres and steering are all planned now so the next item to think about is the fuelling. I know I need a high pressure pump for the efi and I can get an aftermarket one plumbed in easily enough but what about a swirl pot? Just fit an aftermarket one too? Did Landrover ever make a fuel tank for a V8 90 that I could fit instead of the Series one and which has everything built in? What’s the usual tried and tested route to follow? And finally, for now at least, 😉 with having full time 4wd, will I still need to upgrade the rear axle halfshafts to the stronger type as I was going to do when I was fitting the 6 pot but having standard 2wd?

I’ve seen some brackets where the chassis mounting plates have been welded on either side of the chassis rail and then four tubes welded between them to provide greater strength. I think I favour this approach rather than just the single plate idea. I definitely want to retain the Series wheel so doing what the chap in the YT clip did with his using the P38 parts looks like a safe and neat idea. I might need the relay space in the crossmember for a larger radiator so keeping that area free would be helpful although fitting the steering box into it sounds like a good option with a standard radiator. I did also look at the Heystee system originally but I’ve heard mixed reports about it compared to only positive reports about the P38 conversion.

Cheers, that’s useful to know and it seems that either way there’s some fabrication to be done to the steering shaft. Taking the worm drive off the standard shaft and welding the P38 end to it and the same to the column as in that video might be the best way forward then as it’s work I can give to a proper engineering company to make sure the welding is done right and then the P38 parts should mate up to it. I thought the P38 steering arm was a straight fit to the Series rods? Need to check that further to be sure or see if the arm can be swapped for another one.

I’ve done quite a few searches over the last few weeks but can’t find anything conclusive. Some threads seem to fizzle out before being updated with the outcome of the work (pet hate) whilst others are a bit vague and lack the engineering detail. It seems the easiest route is to mate the outboard mounted P38 steering box to a Defender steering column but in doing so you lose the ability to retain the standard Series steering wheel which I would like to keep. Steve Parker do one such conversion package. I saw a comment in a thread about using an early Defender steering column to overcome this but again there were no further details hence my original question. Will a Series steering wheel fit to an early Defender steering column? If so how early do I need to go to get the right splined shaft? Is it from a 90/110 model year as opposed to a later Defender model? The other option I believe is to keep the standard Series column but weld the end of the Defender shaft to it and then do the same for the outer tube to provide a means for it to sit the inner shaft in a lower bearing and bolt to the bulkhead. I also saw a reply to a YT clip that mentioned VW steering shafts have the same dimensions and spline arrangement as a Series shaft but no further information on that either so if anyone does have any details, it would be appreciated. Best I can find at the moment is this link.

Is it correct that an early defender steering column will still allow the use of the series steering wheel?

I’m thinking about the steering arrangements I’d like to have and I’m leaning towards a power steering setup as I have the pump already on the engine. I also have the Rangy steering box but believe the P38 box makes for a simpler conversion? It seems to be the way most folk go these days but I’m unsure whether the box sits inside or outside the chassis rail as I’m sure I’ve seen it done both ways so which is best?

Difficult to judge from photos so I guess I’ll find out when I try it.

Oh 😐 I hadn’t noticed that being mentioned when I’ve been reading the threads on the subject. Must pay more attention in future 🧐

I was hoping the bellhousing would fit without any chopping of the floor, tunnel or bulkhead. Is that a definite that the top of the tunnel aperture in the bulkhead will need modifying? If so then that would probably be a showstopper for the auto then 🙁. Is it the same for the V8 manual box bellhousings, LT77 & R380?

My transfer lever just shifts from high to low with no manual diff lock. The Rangy also has traction control fitted so does that mean I have no diff lock at all or that it is built into the TB and works automatically?

Is the need to modify the bulkhead just to get access to the rearmost exhaust manifold bolts/plugs or are there other reasons?

Looks like it should all fit with some alterations here and there but will be tight. The Rangy has a driveshaft style front propshaft, which might help with clearance but it depends on the final engine position I suppose. I did look again at using the axles with standard rims but that would mean putting it on a Q plate so a no no unfortunately.

Cheers Soren, I appreciate all contributions to the thread as it helps with the discussion and may benefit others in the future. I really do need to recheck my measurements for the Series though before I decide which way to go👍

My mind isn’t made up but you only need to read the thread above this one to see what I’m talking about regarding costs. I’ll look at the Rangy again at the weekend with fresh eyes. If I can’t use the auto box in the Series then I’ll probably look at an alternative V8 and sell the Rangy.

I’ve used catch tanks before on old Fords, pretty standard stuff and easy to plumb in.

I have had a look around at alternative engines and boxes but the reality is that a good condition V8 serpentine engine, complete with intact wiring loom simply is not available at the moment. ZF boxes are out there but again, their condition is unknown and are often missing parts that will be needed to complete the conversion. In the end it would cost me more to try and source another engine, box, diffs, ECU and loom from a donor vehicle than what I could sell the vehicle for in its current state, even to the likes of Kingsley or another specialist restoration company. Going the P38 or D2 engine/box route is too problematic for reasons already discussed. To get the work done properly on the RRC, including the engine, chassis and drivetrain reconditioning, would incur bills knocking on the door of at least £15k for quality results that would give the vehicle another 20+ year lease of life which is what that level of investment should be expected to return. I could probably sell as is for £2-3k but would spend at least that again on buying a decent reconditioned V8 engine alone if not more, so where is the sense in that? The biggest mistake we make with these projects, and I know because I’ve done it, is to let the heart rule the head and end up ploughing tons of money into something that you will never, at least, get your money back on. For a company to buy it to restore and sell on, they will want to give very little for it in the first place as ultimately, they need to make a profit so again it doesn’t make any sense for me to go down that route. Having it sat on the drive unused doesn’t seem the sensible way forward either.