Bigj66

I was looking at it from a space saving view but yeah, I thought they were similar design too.

Looked for a disc brake conversion for the BW but it looks like they only do them for the LT....😐

Good advice and appreciated 👍The box will be changed to auto if I can make it work. I know of someone who’s done it so at least now I have more info to go on. Rangy diffs naturally and the CV axle was to try and keep everything standard LR and have 4wd even though the series ones will do. A disc conversion was alway in the cards for safety. I’m not moving the front panel as I don’t want a 90 so if the auto doesn’t look like it will work then an LT77 or R380 will go in or even just keep the rebuilt series box.

Not yet as I haven’t seen the axle yet. I think KAM do replacement half shafts but will need to investigate further.

I appear to be sorted with an axle 👍 With a S1 axle is the whole assembly swapped for the 4 pot one or just the halfshafts?

Joy! Lots of unwrapping and re-wrapping then 😬

I asked Ashcroft and he just said to use S1 axles 😐Will take a look around.

Didn’t realise Ashcroft did a CV joint so will take a look. I was just thinking about modifying one from a coil axle.

Apart from the obvious CV UJ design, are there any other differences between a coil sprung half shaft and a leaf sprung one besides length of the longer section? Is it possible to have a CV shaft shortened and the splines re-milled to fit a CV half shaft into a leaf sprung axle casing? Or are they a completely different design?

Another question, is the engine loom separate from the rest of the car wiring on a Rangy? By that I mean, apart from ignition supplies, fuel pump etc, can it generally be unplugged from the rest of the car and removed or is it fully integrated?

I haven’t checked mine yet but apparently there’s a section in the V5 where it can be done too but yeah, the electronic way sounds much easier. Bout time the P.O. caught up with the rest of the worlds technology 🙄

I went to the post office on Tuesday to do this and get the V112 form. They didn’t have the form but said if you take your V5 in they will just scan it to check the vehicle qualifies and the exemption will be done electronically.

That looks a bit broke..

No worries 👍 maybe I will have too...

Brilliant, thanks 👍

It would be without engine, box and diffs as well as related wiring, plumbing etc if I go down that route.

If I’ve read it right then it seems the RRC has an electronic speedo fitted which would mean there won’t be a mechanical drive to interface with the Series speedo. Anyone overcome this problem before? I could fit an electronic speedo but then I’d lose the three warning lights and some of the character of the Series dash which I don’t want to do. Something independent like a GPS signal based unit could also be used but again I’d rather keep the dash as ‘clean’ as possible.

I hear what you are saying, I really do but if you look on the likes of EBay etc you can see that a good 3.9 SERP with known history is hard to come by these days. Yes there’s lots of V8s (mainly Thor engines) and late ZF boxes but the quality of them is questionable at best and having been there and done it, the last thing I want to do is to inherit and pay for someone else’s bodges. At least with mine I get access to all the ancillaries and looms that I can remove with care rather than dealing with scrapyard chopped stuff. The same arguement could also be used for the Series 3 as it’s all original and unmolested so the question is do I leave that as it is too, sat there all pretty but not turning a wheel because I have no practical use for a 2.25 on a day to day basis? Since I whipped the roof off and put the tailgate on I’ve never used it as much in the good weather (if your reading this thread in 2025, then this is the year we had some summer 😊) but even that has been only on the odd occasion as the Rangy is my primary vehicle. The idea behind fitting the six pot to the Series was to try and avoid having to modify the bulkhead of an original vehicle and provide me with an engine that would permit the use of the vehicle on a daily basis for both work and personal needs, (such as they are) hold it’s own in modern day traffic if you like. The Rangy would then have been sold, as you say to an enthusiast, but that was before I knew the extent of the work that will be required on it which has reduced its value. I can’t see anyone paying big money for the Rangy in its existing condition and so it’s value to me now lies in what it can offer me in parts to make a very good vehicle out of the Series and then it’s residual value as a donor vehicle that will allow other enthusiasts to keep theirs going. Some enthusiasts may argue that more vehicles will be saved from having access to difficult to source spares rather than saving just one vehicle so I can see an argument for and against. It really is a dilemma and finding the compromise is difficult. Happy as always to listen to advice, suggestions (and incur wrath 😉) from fellow enthusiasts. Thanks for the input to the thread 👍 it’s much appreciated. One thing I do know about these discussions is that they help people in a similar position make more informed decisions and so all opinions are welcome.

I took the Rangy to my local restoration company today to try and get a second opinion on its condition and an indication of costs to restore the shell and repaint it. Doing it myself is not an option due to time and facility constraints not to mention competence 😐 a brush painted Softdash just wouldn’t do. Anyway, turned up to find the old bloke who had done previous high quality work to my Capri had retired and sold the business and the new owner was more focussed on service and repair rather than classic restoration, which is fair enough. There are other companies advertising but they are quite a bit further away from me and I won’t take a chance with a company I have no previous experience of. The Rangy MOT runs out in October and I’m pretty certain it won’t get through again so I need to make a call on this now given that the technical feasibility seems ok. Difficult decision this as I think the Softdash V8 Rangy is the best vehicle ever to come out of Solihull and I’m very conscious of its classic status so not one to be taken lightly but if it helps other enthusiasts keep their vehicles on the road then that will be some consolation. Again, worst case is that I find I can’t fit the auto box and revert to a standard V8 conversion modifying the bulkhead in the process. I’ll finish building the workshop and then make a start on stripping the Landrover down to its chassis whilst still running around in the Rangy for as long as I can. Idea would be to take the Rangy engine and box out as a single unit if possible but I’m not sure it is. Anyone know if it can be done by taking out the front panel? I’d rather keep the body on the rolling chassis as it will be easier to sell it on as a donor I think but without engine, box and diffs. I did consider using the axles too for the CV joints and brakes but they are a tad too wide for a Series I think and I’d hit my points allocation for a Q plate which I don’t want. A Heystee brake conversion front and rear will do the job and if a Stage 1 axle ever turned up then maybe that would be a future option. The Landrover will replace the Rangy as my daily although I use the term lightly as I usually just drive to the airport on a Monday and back on a Thursday or work from home so no great mileage involved work wise and there’s always the Capri as a fallback. I’ll sell the original hardtop and back door and restore the truck cab that I have here in storage. Tailgate is already fitted. I also need to learn how to weld and paint but hey, how hard can it be? 😬 Note to self: set up tents, cold beer and BBQ in the garden, invite forum members round with their spanners and complete the job in a weekend. Be just like the old days at Billing 👍

The brief answer was no🙄

One more thing I will ask Ashcrofts is whether the BW can be converted to part time 4wd as the LT230 can with a suitable kit. You never know....

Might be just as well as the front prop clearance to the crossmember might need looking at, I’ll need to check but I expect that the only way I will find out for sure if this will work despite all the theory and measuring, will be to get the engine and box sat on the Series chassis and then go from there. Would probably just do a mock up with the existing chassis and then if/when everything was in place, get a new galv chassis made to spec. Worst case is that I end up sticking with a manual box bolted to the engine, LT77 or R380 etc. Auto would be nice though 👍

Just been out to take some proper measurements, hopefully will be of use to others in the future too. Series transfer box length (front to rear from rear of handbrake drum to gearbox flange): 270mm BW TB: 300mm Ashcroft LT230 adapter: 104mm ZF box: 670mm (ZF+BW = 970mm) V8 serpentine engine: 700mm Standard SWB Series Rear Propshaft: 530mm Engine-side bulkhead to standard radiator face: 750mm Interior bulkhead face to tub crossmember: 870mm putting the face of the handbrake drum hard up against the crossmember. Move engine forward by 100mm, trim slam panel and fit alternative radiator. 700mm from slam panel lip puts engine/gearbox flange joint forward of the bulkhead recess as indicated by the right hand face of the wooden stick and end of tape. Could move crossmember and tub front mounts rearward by 100mm to give clearance for handbrake drum removal subject to exhaust re-routing. Prop length would be reduced by 40-50mm. Could move axle rearward by 50mm to mitigate if needed. ZF transfer lever should align with transmission tunnel cover and shifter is on a cable so might fit to front edge of centre seat base. Only concern would be the height of the gearbox inside the standard tunnel as I think the auto might be taller than the standard manual. If I was to go down the LT230 adapter route then this will add another 70mm to the length compared to the BW TB making it even tighter and the H/L 4WD levers out of position. Would retaining the BW be that bad considering the diff ratio would be the same as the RRC that the engine and box would come from? If I was to disengage my FWH could I just remain in permanent 4wd? Still need to check front axle to sump clearance and radiator to steering relay or go P38 steering box.

News from Ashcrofts is that the series transfer box will bolt to the rear of the ZF using the LT230 adapter kit 👍 Without the need for an adapter between the gearbox and engine I need to try and find out what the overall length of that combo would be and whether the addition of the LT230 TB adapter to the Series TB will actually exceed the existing width of the BW TB.

Yes, I also like a good techy discussion 👍 And on that subject, if inches will make the difference then it could be possible to move the rear axle back to the centre of the arch and gain 1-2” that way for the rear prop angle. I think you can use offset spring axle plates.