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Wheely

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Posts posted by Wheely

  1. Sorry I meant PU sealant! :)

    My rear is separated from the front with a section/partition of aluminium - for sure I would look anyway at putting a grill to make it as safe as possible as in the rear eventually is where I will camperize Wheely! But for the meanwhile the PU sealant is a good call - is there a guide with pictures on how to do that?

    Nice the hinge protection plates from YRM!  A more expensive alternative (GBP28 each) to the idea of @Tanuki of putting suitably-sized ball bearings and glue them into the 'heads' of the Torx-bolts on the hinges using quick-set epoxy :P

  2. Hi All,

    I am looking at applying a good insulating material for Wheely (1995 Land Rover Defender 6x4) so that in my trips around Ghana and Africa I won't suffer too much from the engine heat nor the very loud engine noise


    I bought 20mm Kaiflex https://uro-camper.com/tiendaonline...miento-termico-kaiflex-autoadhesivo-20mm.html (in spanish but you can ask google to translate the page)


    I plan to cover it all top to bottom (all floors and the ceiling) - I removed the headlining and the original carpet as it was in horrible conditions.


    I have a series of questions, but let’s start with the easy ones.


    1) How do you recommend to treat the surface on which the material will go? Currently it’s bare metal ( a bit rusty). By this I mean, besides cleaning properly, do I need to paint with a special material (e.g. rust converter, waxoyl, …)

    2) Since it will be applied where there were seats that are now removed and there are holes exposing it to the bottom of the vehicle/road, what should be done to cover the holes before applying the kaiflex on top

    3) I've heard the moisture we produce while sleeping condenses on the steel panels, gets trapped in the insulation and causes rust. Between the steel panels and the insulating material do I need to put anything to prevent moist to get trapped and cause rust? Do I need to give a special treatment to the steel panels like they do here https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/camper-van-conversions

    4) Do you recommend this material to be put also inside the battery box/tool box on the passenger side so to limit at most the heat coming from underneath

    5) Whilst I am at it shall I also cover the front-vents to prevent any more dust from getting into the dashboard?

    Thanks so ever much,

    Simone

  3. Great thanks for your feedback and link to previous discussion.

    It's a 1995 Defender, guess these the one piece doors?

    The lock wouldn't be fitted at all times, just when there is stuff inside I don't want to be easily nicked so this can be some sort of deterrent - is the same type of lock used by delivery vans.

    Would you attach it to the thick bit of the Defender frame (only I wouldn't have access to the bolt from the inside) or rather have it attached to the thinner bit to avoid damaging the thicker frame as it'd compromise safety in some way?

     

     

     

     

     

  4. Hi All,

    I want to increase the security of my doors to make it tougher to get in. I am also working on a solution for the windows/glass but I will keep this separate.

    For this I have been roaming for potential solutions and the one that I think is best is to put YALE P400S at the doors - this is a big lock designed for delivery tracks (DHL, etc....) back doors.

     See attached the measures of the lock and where I intend to put it on my Landy (the orange bits) - don't see any other places where this could fit given the size of the lock

    Would appreciate your thoughts on:

    1) the idea in general
    2) the best location where the lock can be fitted to ensure these are well anchored but don't damage any critical part of the car

    Thanks a lot!

    Simone

    yale2.jpg

    yale.jpg

    Landy.jpg

  5. To summarize what I should do in order is

    1. Sand paper
    2. Paint tank and cradle with stone chip paint
    3. Paint tank and cradle black with epoxy spray paint
    4. Apply under-body seal between tank and cradle
    5. Apply polyurethane seam sealant all around cradle to close all cavities to the tank
    Correct?

    In terms of products, here in Ghana, there is little to nothing so I will buy these products in UK and ship out.
    I found these online, can you tell me if they fit what’s required or suggest the link of what’s best?

    Thanks a lot,
    Simone

  6. Heya western,
     
    What generic paint shall i use to cover it? Here in Ghana I won't find any special ones like galvafroid unfortunately... It's painted now but it's already chipping off.
     
    With the vehicle body seam sealer will I just seal the open ends or you think is best to cover the entire bottom of the tank and then place on top of it the cradle?
     
    cheers
  7. Hi All,
     
    Finally I got the new fuel tank shipped to Ghana :) this weekend I will fit it.
     
    Any recommendations on the prep to fit it with respect to:
     
    1- washing the inside of it before putting in the diesel
    2- whether to paint it over the standard black paint that it comes from Bearmach
    3- what to put between the tank and the stone-guard to avoid having mud and water getting stuck in the middle potentially creating rust
    4-anything else you think it's worth doing
     
    Thanks a lot,
     
    Simone 
  8. cool - so i fit either 2, but to ensure that the components I have fit again I can go for the NRC9515 :) this has been of great help, thanks a lot!

    Do you have by any chance the part numbers of any gaskets/seal/retainer ring  that I would need to buy as I fit the new one?

    This is the right tank guard: http://www.paddockspares.com/fuel-tank-guard-defender-110-to-1998.html ?

    I owe you a beer :)

  9. Thanks western for clarifying the point again.
     
    I promise last post on this from me ;)
     
    So you say that despite I now have the NRC9515 (do you confirm you also have the same opinion as I have) I should go for the WFE000190? 
    Since the fuel sender, fuel pump, etc.. are still working on mine, I'd like to replace the tank keeping the same model - so I don't have to change everything else. On the WFE000190 the drain plug is bigger and is in the middle of the fuel tank so I am worried that there might be other differences..
     
    If I put the WFE000190 will it fit likewise and would I be able to reuse the various components (the fuel sender, fuel pump, etc..)?
    What are the drawback if I order the same one (assuming it is the NRC9515)?
     
    Thanks very much

    Simone

  10. Thanks 

    Based on the pics I believe it's the NRC9515...See the location of the drain plug? the WFE000190 has a larger drain plug towards the center of the tank, rather I have it in the right-front corner...




    What are your thoughts? 

    NRC9515 says Fuel tank NRC9515 is for the Defender 110 with V8 Petrol 2.5 Diesel to 1986 (from https://www.lrdirect.com/NRC9515-Fuel-Tank-110-Early-Ext.-Pump-M/?keep_https=yes) - is the 1986 referring to Diesel since mine is a 1995 V8 ?

    Thanks so much for clearing this up for me!

     

    FullSizeRender (2).jpg

    FullSizeRender (1).jpg

  11. Thanks a lot Western for the feedback. If I look at my current tank and the ones online rather than WFE000190 mine looks like the NRC9515 - see picture attached - the areas i have  circled red can be found in the NRC rather than WFE - what kind of tank is that? May be it got changed by the previous owner?

    I have seen some defender that have the fuel fill hole on the left-hand side (see attached) - are there any special things to look for to ensure the tank fits the right-hand side for filler?

    Is this the stone guard: http://www.paddockspares.com/esr2204-cradle-for-wfe000190-esr2000.html or do you have a part number I can use as reference..?

    The sender of my picture is the original one - can I just get the seal and retainer ring - part numbers - since the sender works well? 

    thanks a bunch!

     

    18275186_1156389437821959_6728973931944498970_n.jpg

    WP_20170515_22_38_05_Pro.jpg

  12. Hi All,

    My Landy has been leaking increasingly and after a few attempts to fix, yesterday finally my mechanic suggested to replace it.

    I read all of the threads on this on the forum and couldn't find a conclusive answer to my questions:

    1- What is the right tank for my 1995 110 Defender (SALLDHMV8TA975201) - it was a V8 petrol but now converted to diesel - will I find a diesel replacement tank or I need to get the V8 petrol one because of how it fits in the car? It's located at the back of the car, looking at the car from behind, the sender unit is on the left hand-side just next to the exhaust pipe...I think my current tank is this one (NRC9515): http://www.paddockspares.com/nrc9515-fuel-tank.html

    2- What supplier has a tank of good quality? Been looking on http://www.rjs-land-rover-spares.com/, https://www.allisport.com, and ebay but can't find much alternatives - and the comments I have heard on the britparts fuel tanks are horrendous so would rather get something that will prevent me from having this problem in the future..I would have loved to find a tank for long-range but all seems to be only in australia: http://thelongranger.com.au/landrover/defender/1999-2007/tr55-td5 :)

    3-What are the part number for the sender unit and gaskets that I have to replace? Anything else needed?

    I attach picture of the tank (from below the car) and the sender unit + gasket currently fitted.

    Thanks a lot!

    WP_20170415_11_48_05_Pro[2].jpg

    WP_20170415_13_19_41_Pro[2].jpg

    • Like 1
  13. Great, thanks

    just to confirm I understand what i need to order on paddock:

    1) For the differential housing case (it doens't matter if we don't have the serial number as all the salisbury are the same?):
    1x stc4403 
    1x 607183 
    1x 607197 

    2) For the transfer box:
    1x ftc4939
    1 frc2464
    1x frc5442
    4 x frc3602
    12 x bt606101l
    8 x nz606041l

    2 x stc1130

    + the hand brake shoes ( ICW500010)

    + the bolts I am missing in the transfer box fs108301l x 2


    would it be worth doing anything else whilst I am doing these work?

    Thanks so much!!!!

    Simone

     

  14. Thanks very much @Snagger for your reply - glad you are interested in finding more about Wheely - I will be taking some pics and share!

    Finally I am found a way to upload all of the pictures highlighting the 2 parts where Wheely is leaking 

    1) Transfer care (LT230) + hand-brake drum - any idea of what I should buy to fix this?

    2) rear differential housing: Since I need to buy the parts in the UK, ship them here to Ghana before I get the mechanic to start working on it (to prevent having it dismantled and not having the pieces to them put it back together) so you are recommending that i purchase the salisbury seal and flange - I can find 3 flanges here, which one are you referring to : http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=755457&SPRACHE=EN

    Thanks a lot!

     

    IMG_2012.JPG

    IMG_2013.JPG

    IMG_2014 (1).JPG

    IMG_2015.JPG

  15. Hi All,

    Last month I changed all the oil of my Landy - named Wheely given the 6 wheels ;)
    I don't use Wheely often, but last week after it had been parked for a 5-6 days and noticed a big leak underneath - I brought it to the lube bay and had to top-up almost 1LT of oil in the auxiliary gearbox - the main one was still level... See the pictures - the leak is just after the auxiliary and at the joint of the rear axle.

    I am in Ghana and mechanics are not too savvy on what to do to fix the problem, but once you give them the right parts and provide some guidance they can do magic - hence I would really be happy if you could tell me what pieces (part number) I need to buy to fix this up, and whether whilst I am doing this work and have these bits down I should do anything else. Wheely is a 1995 110 Defender - now it fits the 200TDI engine and gearbox. 

    I found the serial number of the transmission (28D2 89013E) and of the front axle (64I 17310A) and lazy axle (the 3rd axle -42s17124a )... but not the one of the rear axle (the 2nd axle) despite I have scrubbed the whole axle to the bone!! Could it be that as part of the conversion CarMichael replaced the axle with one without serial number?

    Besides this mystery, now that we know the type of transmission (model LT230 transfer case), what parts do I have to buy to stop the leaking (captured in pictures IMG 2012 and 2013) ? The front axle sweats rather than leaks as the transmission and rear axle do...

    For the rear axle I posted some pictures of it from side (IMG-2015) and from the back (IMG- 2017). anyone can recognize it? The leaking is captured in picture IMG2014 and IMG-2015)

    Thanks so much for the support!

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