Wheely

February 24, 2019

Hey guys,

I am prepping for a trip from Ghana to Senegal and to ensure that I have an eye on my engine I wanted to buy the madman EMS.

All the posts I can find on it at 10 years or more, but all sterling good - so was wondering whether it's still a good buy to go for, or whether in the last 10 years a better product came out? Thanks so much!

February 21, 2019

Hi guys,

Looking to replace the side-lights with the LED type.

Since we found that the cabling for the license plate, the one for the fog light and for the rear light, are missing I was thinking to then replace the cabling for all of the side-lights whilst placing them with LEDs.

My questions are:

1) Is this a simple piece of work since I'd need to have it done in Ghana?

2) what type of cable should we do it with?

3) is there a particular color coding to use for future ease of reference?

4) Do I need to change any fuse when doing this?

Any reference of already created material on this would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Simone

January 5, 2019

On 7/8/2018 at 1:04 PM, Wheely said:

Hey guys!

As I am rebuilding Wheely following a complete respray I put the seals between roof and bulk head/windscreen frame (as per pic) BUT:

when I tight the roof completely with the nuts and bolts there is still a big gap between windscreen frame and roof (see pic)

the seal between bulkhead and windscreen frame is rather loose

What could be the reason for that?

This is the last hurdle before the Landy is completely rebuild and can finally take it for a ride :):):)

thanks for your support!

Hey guys,

been travelling so couldn't finish this up - to recap (pics in previous post):

the LR055345 one in foam is genuine LR, the MTC4994 in soft rubber and MTC6568 in foam are britpart - it just looks like there is not enough pressure on these foam seals (the plastic one can't be seen as it's between roof and windscreen) - also the MTC6568 is not long enough to cover the full roof width...

Was thinking that the easiest solution would be just to replace the MTC6568 and LR055345 with alternative seals neoprene slightly thicker and for the MTC6568 also to cover the full lenght of the roof from end to end

What are your thoughts on it?

thanks for your support!

Simone

July 9, 2018

ok - so doing the normal paint job would be strong enough? any suggestions on the best steps to take?

July 9, 2018

ok given the absence of replies I think it was a dumb idea - fair enough - i wanted something to protect it from stones and gravel that I'd find as I overland....

So if I go with the standard approach am I correct in assuming the following to paint them:

1- epoxy primer

2- base coat

3- after first coat is dry - give it another coat

4- once the two layers of base coat is dry put the clear coat

Will this make the color on the rims strong enough against chips?

I'd love to hear if you have any suggestions on how to strenghten that paint

Cheers,

Simone

July 9, 2018

Guys - this morning I took off the bolts and nuts from roof and hinges and tried again fitting it - but this time i fitted first the roof and later the hinge - so now the roof is way closer but the space between the bulkhead and windscreen frame is even greater

Do you guys normally fit first the hinge between bulkhead and windscreen frame or first the roof to the windscreen frame? There must be something I am doing wrong...

July 8, 2018

eheh yeah but this would be an inch worth of PU seal - and wouldn't solve the problem of the bulkhead to windscreen seal not being tight enough right?

July 8, 2018

The roof should be well aligned as I have already fixed the back of it and it all went smoothly, so I was thinking either:

1-it is the new seal which is very thick

2-I should loose all the bolts between roof and body and fit all of them more gradually

3-something happened in the 2 weeks that the roof was detached from the body - can it have bent as it was being supported by two wheels at the front/rear ends of the roof which is 5 meters long (Wheely it's 3 axle) so the middle section which wasn't supported messed up the shape of it? I'd think unlikely but could be an alternative

4- ???

I would have thought that when the roof to the windscreen frame was tighten up also the seal between windscreen frame to bulkhead would have tighten up from being so loose now...

grateful for your thoughts

July 8, 2018

Hey guys!

As I am rebuilding Wheely following a complete respray I put the seals between roof and bulk head/windscreen frame (as per pic) BUT:

when I tight the roof completely with the nuts and bolts there is still a big gap between windscreen frame and roof (see pic)
the seal between bulkhead and windscreen frame is rather loose

What could be the reason for that?

This is the last hurdle before the Landy is completely rebuild and can finally take it for a ride :):):)

thanks for your support!

July 6, 2018

Hey guys,

I am painting the original Defender rims (https://goo.gl/images/pFw4fN) - I would be using the vehicle for overlanding so between mud and sand.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on whether UPOL Gravitex paint would be suitable for this use rather than a normal base coat/hardener and clear coat.

thanks for your suggestions.

Simone

July 2, 2018

guys, job done! painted inside out and is looking brilliant! will post some pics as soon as I have some time.

Now as I approach putting it all back together I have a question for you: to put back the shutters at the back i will need to drill some holes to put some bolts into the freshly painted roof/body leaving the steel/alu in the hole exposed - what shall I put inside the hole for it to avoid rusting? shall I apply some primer and paint ? but then when I'd put the bolt it would come off or? or shall i just put some waxoyl?

your guidance would be appreciated

thanks a lot!

July 2, 2018

Thanks @Peaklander - the B pillar is the one between the 2 doors right ?

This seal has 2 holes and a foamy part.

So I apply the foam part of the seal looking towards the roof or toward the b-pillar?

I am going to fix it tomorrow

July 2, 2018

Job done with a piece of galv steel (as in the way the piece looked was like this) ! I'll post some pics when I get a chance thanks once again everyone!

June 26, 2018

nice! thanks @Gazzar so no need of rivets but PU seal would be sufficient. Shall I put a gasket as well between the panel and the patch?

I can access the spot from the exterior of the vehicle, clean, apply patch with PU seal, and on the inside I just put filler and then spray - sounds like a deal?

June 25, 2018

is just a panel on top of the wheels - what would you suggest?

June 25, 2018

so:

1- Alu plate

2- seal around it and apply on top of the hole

would you think we'd need to rivet the sides or it'd be fine without?

cheers

June 25, 2018

Hello guys,

I am about to paint the interior of the Defender and there is a large hole (pic attached).

I can close the small hole with a rivet (and placing some PU seal around it to avoid water passing through since we don't have here water tight rivets) but I am thinking of a creative solution for the bigger hole since over here in Ghana can't find someone who can weld ALU.

This is in the back cabin that I am camperising, so I will be placing insulating material over the panel once it's fixed - so it doesn't have to look pretty but it does need to avoid water from passing through.

Thanks!!

June 25, 2018

thanks @ballcock for the tips - is this an area of the bulkhead that normally rusts out?

Few questions:

1) what should I check of the heater box whilst in there?

2) What do you mean by adding side window ducting?

2) I was trying to find some guidelines on how to re-grease the splindles - here it shows how to take them out - which part of it needs to be regreased?

June 24, 2018

thanks @tweetyduck - the B pillar is the one between the 2 doors right? what is the purpose of this seal ?

June 24, 2018

Hey guys,

As many of you know by now I am currently doing a restoration on my fireservice-yard-find 6-wheeler defender.

I surprisingly found very little rust so far (despite it being 22 years 5 of which stalled) - as you can see from the pics of the footwell on engine bay side these are solid.

I was wondering whether it makes sense to disassemble the complete dashboard (not just where the instruments are but the whole black and grey part) to see whether there is any rust that needs to be treated.

Without taking it off I noticed that there is some surface rust on top of the footwell of the passenger. It's not going through and by removing one part of it I can see grey underneath (you can see from the pic) what do you think it's the best way to treat?

If ultimately I remove the dashboard - would it make sense to put some insulation material (like dynamat) to protect from some of the heat coming from the engine ?

thanks so much!

June 23, 2018

Great thanks so I will just do 5 x6mm holes at the bottom of the steel structure to improve drainage and spray Waxoyl inside.

The insulation is for the heat since I am in Africa the car is pretty hot so by putting some insulating material attached to the interior of the alu skin I hope that it would prevent some of the heat from coming in ( I don't have A/C) - do you think it's a sensible idea or anyway given the lining there wouldn't be much heat coming through the doors anyway ?

June 17, 2018

eheh yes pics will come soon - is looking pretty nice - I did a combination of 3 colors -aintree green body, niagara grey roof and details in phoenix orange

So far I have identified:

1-Bulkhead: I can inject from the door hinges holes and from the front wings holes ( both are now removed). Any other role not identified so far? the bulkhead is still fitted so can't turn it upside down

2-Doors: I can inject at the bottom of the steel structure and will drill one hole on each side. What do you think about doing a hole also on the top of the door? I am afraid it might then creep onto the glass.

3-Chassis: the body is on top of it so I guess I can't do it in every existing holde - so far I have identified about 22 holes

4- Pillar in the middle of the two sets of doors: I can inject from the top of it since now I don't have the roof

Anywhere else? where can I get a guide like the attached

June 17, 2018

On 2/21/2010 at 5:28 PM, tweetyduck said:

334615 which are now DDL500011

Hey @tweetyduck I would love to know where did you fit the DDL500011 - I am struggling to understand and I have the workshop refitting the roof in a couple of days - thanks so much!

June 17, 2018

Thanks very much Mikey @discomikey for this great post - since the doors are in pretty good shape I am not stripping off the skin nor repainting the steel structure and the skins separately - I have just given them a coat of primer and paint inside out. Given this is it better to apply PU sealant between steel and alu where I can see some gaps so to 'isolate' the two materials OR do you feel is better to leave it alone ?

Now before putting the lining back I have been thinking of what to do to lengthened their lifetime and reduce the noise they do during travel - I plan to:

1) apply Waxoyl across the structure door through the various holes present
2) apply insulation material across the door attaching it to the alu skin like you have done - any lessons learnt here you could share? the insulation goes everywhere or it would bother the window somewhere?

thanks so much!

June 17, 2018

Hey @steve b all painted disassembled as suggested and it looks like a gem now

I will take advantage of it being stripped down to do the cavity wax - where can I get some guidelines of which are the parts where I should inject it ? I have seen many of the cavities but I am sure there are other that I haven't spotted!

cheers

Simone

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Events

Gallery

Blogs

Posts posted by Wheely

Important Information