Wheely

October 31, 2017

Heya,

This weekend i progressed with this work - but had a few challenges:

1) I tried changing also the transfer box oil seal, flange, etc - as indicated earlier in this thread. However the flange that is fitted on my landy has 2 screws on the side besides the 4 bolts - pic attached - and the one that i bought (part number frc5442) didn't have that - so I wasn't able to change it. What is the part number of mine? from the picture you feel this flange needs to be replaced or the leaking can be mainly referred to the oil seal (which I was able change) ?

2) My mechanic said that the transfer box bearing and the one for the differential housing were fine (stc1130) so he didn't replace these (nor the other part 607197 of the differential housing) - is it worth changing it anyway since now i have bought the piece or best to leave it in place until further date (ideally before it brakes and it creates issues)?

3) The bolts I was missing in the transfer box have been replaced (fs108301l) - however as you can see from the attached these are longer than the original ones - are they going to be fine or shall i replace with the ones of the same height?

Thanks a lot!!!

Simone

Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty? · October 31, 2017

Here you go - these are the previous ones - is it so bad like the mechanic says?

shall i also buy gaskets?

--> ''There is a seal on the stub axle that seals the hub from the axle tube'' --> What's the part number of the seal that I should remove? so i can see the picture and make sure i remove the right one

Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty? · October 28, 2017

Thanks - i will look into it when replacing the drive flange and remove the seal.

Mine is a 1995 110 (VIN: SALLDHMV8TA975201) - the front axle number is: 64I 17310A - what type of flange would I then have? I have already bought a bunch of parts that didn't fit as I didn't do a thorough research before buying - would rather avoid doing the same this time round

The OEM is 24 quid for a pair - the Ashcroft standard one (not HD) is 36 - worth the difference to get Ashcroft ?

is there a gasket I also need to buy when fitting a new drive flange?

thanks for your support

Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty? · October 25, 2017

Cool thanks for your suggestions guys, much appreciated. I'd then stick with the standard ones as I don't do competition and my offroading is light with my heavy 6 wheelers beast!

Are there different part numbers for these drive flanges or all are the same ? worth buying then the ashcroft standard one: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/drive-flanges/ruc105200.html

Shall I change all of the six whilst I am at it, or just the front pair (since one of them got busted)?

When you say: 'pop the internal seal out of the stub axle & let the axle oil get to the shaft end/driving member splines' you mean to pinch the hub seal for some of the EP90 to flow across? wouldn't that eventually lead all of the oil to finish?

Thanks!

Simone

Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty? · October 22, 2017

great - that reassures me, thanks Western! I have a dedicated 'upgrade Defender' saving account - so if you guys feel this upgrade is worth 90 quid (for 2) I can do it!

What would be the benefit of the HD against the original ones?

cheers,

SImone

Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty? · October 22, 2017

Hey all,

I changed my hub seals yesterday and my mechanic told me the the driving member teeth are all eaten up so I should get another one - few questions:

1-if the driving member has the teeth eaten up, is another part also worth being replaced?

2- what driving member would you suggest buying? worth upgrading to the HD ones like these: https://bearmach.com/heavy-duty-drive-member-nut-br-0465a

Thanks for your support as always!

Cheers

Simone

October 21, 2017

thanks @western and @Les Henson!! finally I am working on this - as when I did the hub bearings, shall I put grease thoroughly on these 2 bearings here? !!!!

October 15, 2017

Hi All,

As you might have read in another thread I am preparing my 6x6 Land Rover Defender for an overland trip across Africa. I am in Ghana at the moment.

The chassis is in great conditions - I want to paint it as i will be staying on the coast for long.

I have found the Jotun products here so will be applying jotamastic-87-aluminium (https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/primers/jotamastic-range/jotamastic-87-aluminium)

The bodyshell is still mounted - the truck will be raised from the ground and the Jotamastic applied in situ

Few questions:

-how shall i prep the surface of the chassis? would a thorough wash with a strong water jet be sufficient or shall i also wire-brush?

-besides the chassis also the external lower part of the bodywork will be painted (the external part of the floor) + the axles - any advice on how to best do that?

-it will be applied with airless gun - anything that I should cover to avoid it painting (e.g. calipers, fuel hoses, ..)

-the local vendor told me that it can be atomised within the cavities (like you'd do with Dinistrol) - what are your thoughts on that?

-Would applying a top-coat have any impact on the resistance of it? I don't mind the cosmetic look

Thanks very much,

Simone

September 12, 2017

ok, the outside is finally sorted! thanks so much everyone!

Do you guys recommend any treatment for the inner surface of the tank to prevent any rusting from the inside-out in the future?

September 1, 2017

Great thanks Western!!

September 1, 2017

@Western you always safe me up! So on mild-steel if I put gravitex I don't need to put any primer (at least this is what UPOL has in the TDS)

I am still puzzled around the paint to be honest. I did some research online and I get a lot of conflicting info - who says to put epoxy, 2k top coat etc... the 2k i read that it won't flex with the chassis creating cracks in the paint that will allow corrosion -

On top of the gravitex then,which is a good stone chip, what would be the best paint to provide a stronger build to the tank to resist water, salt from seabreeze (I live by the sea), mud, etc...? Or I would better just apply more layers of Gravitex? I will follow whatever is your recommendation

September 1, 2017

Hey guys,

Can't believe I am still not done with this tank! Been back and forth on many other things but I will tackle it asap!

Quick question - the tank I bought, which is a Bearmach: https://www.lrdirect.com/NRC9515-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html

What material would it be made out of (metal, stainless steel, aluminium, ...) ? Depending on that I would be using a different type of Primer.

Thanks very much,

Simone

July 24, 2017

Hey @Jocklandjohn - ye sand-blasting probably too much - a good 80 GRIT sand paper should be sufficient to remove the surface rust - it's mainly in the foot-well/firewalls.

Good point on whether the kaiflex glue would stick on top of the Gravitex/Acid primer - I will see how i can test that.

The metal plate then can have a nice rubber floor mat on top The kaiflex seems pretty delicate - push in a finger and you create a decompression - stepping daily on it would eventually brake it... I have seen a few people using dynamat and stepping on it but i guess that's a different material?

July 23, 2017

Hi guys,

read various of the posts on Waxoyling and have few questions:

-In his very useful thread @Happyoldgit had 5L for the Black Waxoyl and the Standard Waxoyl - across the post there was no mention of where to use which one...

- Besides the clear cavities/spots where to the wax is there a guide that includes them all as some as not straight-forward e.g. remove the doors to access the bulk head cavity.

- During the cleaning prior to the waxing it is advisable to put high-pressure water in the chassis holes as these are dirty with dry mud etc? or the water will be trapped inside and mess up the Waxoyl?

-Where do you recommend to buy a Schutz gun with a 1) long extension (mine is a 6x4 chassis) 2) 360 degrees mushroom head cavity spray pattern wand 3) the 45 degree underbody head? Something like this http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-wand-set/p413022 but that is suited to a normal Shutz gun

Thanks a lot!

Simone

July 23, 2017

Thanks a lot guys, you made my day!

July 23, 2017

cool - I get it now, the one highlighted in red in this new attachment.

so for you the number 3 had to be blanked off and cut down whilst for me will be the fuel return - I am on the right track?

Really hope that the when I take off the old tank it will match the one I bought ( fingers crossed !!!) so that all pipes/openings etc will match... it's easy to take down, check, and fit back whilst I am waiting to paint the new tank? I am saying this as I am going back home to Italy for a week, and will do the change then, wouldn't want to come back and find that something is wrong when I could have bought whatever I would have needed back at home...

July 23, 2017

oh that's good news - I thought something was wrong with the tank I bought :S

So the one i circled in red is the fuel return then? in the pic of Western that is point 2 (tank breather flexi hose to fill point neck) - nothing else I should cross-check whilst I am at it?

a couple of quids saved on the washers then no other things needed?

Thanks a lot

Simone

July 23, 2017

Thanks a bunch @western for this, very useful to understand what is what.

In my tank I identify all of your openings but point 4 - I have a decompression but no hole - see picture attached ( !! ) is that the standard on the NRC9515 ?

Where would the fuel return line pipe be then??

July 23, 2017

Great feedback @Jocklandjohn!

I have been doing some research and I think the following plan is a good one:

I would prep the panels by sand blasting them, apply rust-converter is there is any rust left, then apply UPOL #8 Acid primer, then UPOL Gravitex and then applying the Kaiflex on it. Since the Kaiflex shouldn't be exposed to pressure I plan to cover it with metal sheets to give it this effect: https://goo.gl/images/5XYMGV - how did you fix the insulation to allow it to be removed for cleaning etc?

-Gravitex should help to deaden sound and vibrations (as per UPOL TDS- attached)
-Kaiflex can be exposed to water as it is a closed cell PVC/NBR foam.
-I would apply rubber plugs to the holes (http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-plugs-m10/p405074)

...What are your thoughts on this plan? anything i should add/remove/change of it?

Thanks a lot!

Simone

GRAVITEX.pdf

July 23, 2017

Great guys, thanks! I checked and my tank has only 2 holes (one for the hole to fill the tank and the other one to send the diesel to the engine) + 1 drain plug. So i guess I would only need 1 washer to replace the rubber one I bought (ARA1502L) that goes with the locking ring?

Any thoughts on the paints I posted earlier on?

Thanks a lot!

Simone

July 23, 2017

1 hour ago, steve b said:

I've been using ones from an assorted box , but I found these on www.123bearing.co.uk part no RDL-5X9X2-FIBRE , 5mm ID 9mm OD 2mm thick , or RDL-5X10X1.5-FIBRE , 5mm ID 10mm OD 1.5mm Thick .

The last 2 or 3 tanks I have fitted on 110's the guard panel has needed more form on the curves to wrap around the front and rear to align with the mounts .

A thread on your truck would be interesting I'm sure including any overland adaptations during prep. What engine does it have ?

cheers

Steve b

Great stuff @steve b - the tank I have is the NRC9515 https://www.lrdirect.com/NRC9515-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html - which of the two washers you suggested I would need? how many?

I will try to fit the guard panel now and leave it for a few days and hopefully it will go in shape - thanks a lot for the tip!

On the thread I will include the plans I have and progress made - it'll be fun as here in Ghana you gotta be very creative to get stuff done (lack of skilled labour, lack of products, ...) - Wheely had a 3.5L V8 which got spoilt and was changed onto a 200TDI before I bought it... I will see how I can upgrade it to make it last the overland trip I have in mind

July 23, 2017

2 hours ago, nickwilliams said:

You are wasting time and money using zinc rich paints such as Galvafroid on top of existing paint. Proper cold galvanising paints form a chemical bond with the metal, which they cannot do if there is a layer of paint between them and it.

The black paint used by parts manufacturers is generally a crappy spray finish. You'd be best off stripping it and starting again but if that's too much work then remving it wherever it is loose or likely to get damaged easily and the painting over the whole lot with a two part epoxy top coat will be the best solution.

Thanks @nickwilliams for sharing your thoughts

I am sanding away the original crappy spray finish - then self-etch prime, followed by Gravitex, and to finish off paint it up --> my question is which of the paints you would recommend (I have attached the TDS as well).

Thanks!

July 23, 2017

13 hours ago, steve b said:

Hi

Just be aware that the tank will almost certainly have open threaded inserts for the fittings in the top - the original ones will have been blind (closed end ) , you will need to put fibre sealing washers under the screws to stop diesel coming out when full or at odd angles . I've also found the guard plate to be less than perfectly formed with recent tank fits so some time making it fit before fitting makes life easier.

Is that your Truck in the avatar pic? A little write up on it would be nice with some pics if possible

cheers

Steve b

Thanks for your tips @steve b! I am waiting to do some nice pics offroad before doing a write-up - it's a 6x4 carmichael firetruck I bought in auction in Ghana! Prepping it to do an Africa overland in some time

1) Do you have the part number for the fibre sealing washer? The ones I bought with the Bearmach tank are ARA1502L (https://www.lrdirect.com/ARA1502L-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html) and the locking ring ARA1501L ( https://www.lrdirect.com/ARA1501L-supplied-by-allmakes-branded-allmakes.html).

2) your second point means to actually fit the guard plate on the tank for a while before actually fitting it so that it gets into the right shape?

Cheers!

July 22, 2017

Today I did some further research in town and found the 2 following paints:

BASF MasterEmaco® 8100 AP: Single component epoxy based zinc rich primer for steel
Berger ZINCANODE 600: A two pack epoxy zinc rich primer.

Any thoughts on these two compared to the ones of Sikkens?

thank a bunch!

BASF.pdf

BERGER.pdf

Washprimer.pdf

S5.2.49_Autocryl Plus_AUS.pdf

TDS Sikkens Autobase Plus 041417 English.pdf

July 22, 2017

Hi @western,

took a while to explore what is available in Ghana Your input would be greatly appreciated

So the plan I have settled for is:

1) Sand-paper the tank to skim the original paint and allow prime to attach to steel (100GRIT)

2) Prime it

3) Light-Sand paper it (400 GRIT)

4) Gravitex it

5) Paint it

Point 1,3 and 4 are sorted, for point 2 and 4 I have some perplexities as it’s the first time I am exploring the ‘paints’ world and there are many choices (very confusing).

· the primer I found is a sikkens ‘wash-primer 1K CF’ which is a one component chrome-free, self-etching primer that offers corrosion resistance without the use of metal preps and conditioners – it can be used for priming steel, galvanized steel and aluminum. http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Primers/Washprimer 1K CF

Is this the right primer to use or would you recommend me to use another one? I can see online that there are etch-primers, primers, etc… and I am not sure which one would be best for my intended use ( I guess the primer to be used also depends on the pain that will be applied on top?).

With regards to the paint to apply on top of it, Sikkens has either Base coat or Top coat (not sure the difference across the two – great if you could clarify)

· Autobase plus (basecoat): solvent borne basecoat provides excellent coverage, metallic control and sprayability when used to duplicate OEM solid, metallic and pearl color effects. It says that this has to be used in conjuntion with a clear-coat (also available at Sikkens in either 1k or 2k variant). However in the TDS I see that this this paint cannot be applied over acid containting wash primers so it looks like I can’t use this with the washprimer that Sikkens has (?) - http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Basecoats/Autobase Plus MM

· Autocryl plus (top coat): Two-pack acrylic enamel for cars. To be used with hardener P25/35 and Plus Reducers. http://www.sikkenscr.com/en/products/Topcoats/Autocryl Plus MM

Not sure is these are fine as they look more for bodywork than for a use like the tank. Harry didn't feedback yet on the zinc-rich paint available in Ghana so I need to look some something else in the meanwhile

An interesting chassis coating paint that is the winner of the rust test of Classics Monthly 2013 is Epoxy Mastic 121 which is a is a two-pack surface tolerant high solids epoxy mastic coating. http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Would this be suitable for a tank? I am going to Europe for vacation and could buy it.

Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts, much appreciated.

Simone

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Events

Gallery

Blogs

Posts posted by Wheely

Important Information