paime
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Posts posted by paime
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If i'm buying one it'll be for the business rather than for me personally (i've already got a TD5 so won't need anything else) which changes my requirements a little:
1 - a decent sized inverter for charging equipment, preferably from a dual battery system
2 - weatherproof and relatively comfortable for 7 hour+ trips
3 - wash down rear load area
4 - a rear spare wheel carrier that doesn't destroy the back door or make it heavy to open
5 - easy to work on - i don't want to have to plug it in to wind back calipers when replacing brake pads
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i'm going by the philisophy that the more (correct) paint and protection i can apply, the more difficult it will be more corrosion to set in. I'm also conscious that she's lasted 20 years with her on-galv 2mm barely-coated LR chassis so a galv one will surely last double that at which point diesel will probably be illegal!
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It was more the washing of the T-Wash off the chassis after i'm done that i was thinking about but then again i'm not sure where i've picked that up from!
14 hours ago, smallfry said:I really like Bilt Hamber Etchweld, and use it for most things, then overcoat with paint of your choice, but NOT Hammerite or POR15
Is that this stuff here: https://www.bilthamber.com/etchweld ? My knowledge of coatings is pretty limited and i'm terrified i get it wrong and over-paint with an incompatible top coat causing crazing or a lack of adhesion. Are there any dual systems from the same manufacturer out there?
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I placed the order for the Shielder chassis from Terrain Tech last night so no going back now!
Re T-Wash, does that stuff stain driveways? I've had a hard enough time persuading Mrs Paime that this is a good idea in the first place without destroying the driveway in the process.
38 minutes ago, Snagger said:For the rest, after a good wash or two and a month of exposure to the weather, I used Hammerite Underbody Shield, which I think is just the other name they have used for Underbody Seal.
I've used this stuff before and thought it was great. Might go for some more on the areas where stonechips might cause problems like the dumb irons and gearbox cross member.
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The time has come to change my old girl's chassis and i thought i would start a thread on here to document it/ask all of you good people for advice. I've got a loose plan in my head as to what and how i'm going to do everything which will include bushes, axle refurbs, clutch/DMF, fuel lines and brake lines. I'm going to go for a Shielder chassis, partly on cost but also because they're in stock and i would have to wait 6 weeks for a Richard's one. I also like the idea of the 2.5mm rails which will give more strength and longevity whilst hopefully not slowing me down too much.
First question - powder coat, raptor or T-wash and satin black? It's a silver truck so an exposed galv chassis will be too much i think.
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Not for sale but somehow i feel it still belongs in this thread.
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hmmmmmm, i'm not sure i like that sloped bonnet or the front bumper although it's difficult to tell with the camo on. The overall feel of it looks good though apart from all the iron mongery hanging down!
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Can you not just nail the part to the fence and let the wind do the rest down there??
On a serious note, i've tried a Clarke cabinet blaster and thought it was great. I wouldn't use it continually (mostly because the compressor was too small and it ran out of steam quickly) but it was good for getting those cracks and joints clean where you can't get a wire brush or flap disk in.
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There are defenders in much worse condition than that on the road right now. Your bulkhead will be fine with a few new plates here and there plus some decent waxoyling and further rust prevention. Rear tubular outriggers are fairly straight-forward to chop off and replace as well after you've done the body mounts. Be careful welding galv steel though as the fumes are toxic.
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If it's nice and mechanical and rugged enough to be a proper workhorse then I might have one. Also depends what it looks like of course!
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Do you think the seller knows it's upside down?
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There's not much in the way of publicly available off-roading in Scotland and, whilst you can walk pretty much anywhere you like thanks to the Right to Roam act, you aren't allowed to take a vehicle on to private land without permission of the land owner.
There are some companies in and around Perthshire that do safari-type expeditions through some of the estates but that's probably not what you're looking for?
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2 hours ago, Daan said:
If you have space, you could just buy it, leave it for 10 years, and ebay it again, certainly better than putting money in the bank at the moment.
Bits are no problem by the looks of it:
I have the space but not the permission of the wife (yet...)
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5 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
One that's that good I'd expect JLR will buy it and restore it and flog it on for 100k as they appear to be doing with them now.
Not sure JLR can afford to buy anything at the moment until they get their government bail out!
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Thanks for following up, Ed. I won't be able to get a look at it due to covid for a while but if there's a wee deal to be done then I'm all ears!
Still struggling to get my head round values of these things... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264653499618
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Well it's MOT exempt and comes with an engine & box, so technically it could be rolling...
Plenty of rolling but maybe not so much stopping....
1 hour ago, Ed Poore said:I do know of a 1972 3 door that is for all intents and purposes rust free and been parked up in a dry barn for the last 20 years with a blown head gasket.
What would the value on that sort of thing be? I've been perusing fleabay for a while now but the prices people ask are baffling. It's the same as the defender market I think - some very unrealistic sellers out there.
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36 minutes ago, mad_pete said:
Do an outrageous conversion of some sort 😉
If only i had the creativity! I do like the idea of an RRC but i think i'm going to give that one a miss. Something that can act as a rolling restoration would be better i think.
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Probably to get it to the stage of being a nice little runaround. I've always like the 3 door RRs but maybe this one is a bridge too far.
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Maybe the wrong title for this thread as i'm sure you will all say 'yes, it's worth saving' so i guess the real question is, how easy will it be to bring back to life?
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13 hours ago, mat2495 said:
Well I didn't have as many photo's as I expected, but I still have one sat on a pallet if you want details of anything particular. Anyway, here are a couple of pics, one after t-wash, with primer going on, and one in paint showing the back side.
A new bulkhead is the dream! Is it ok to move around the garage by yourself or would you need 2 people?
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On 1/8/2020 at 8:11 PM, mat2495 said:
I recently took delivery of 2 bulkheads from shielder, which are far better than the pictures I have seen online, in a different league really. Iv'e only got half way through fitting the first one, so cant say for definite regarding alignment issues, but so far so good. When I have finished I will do a little write up and a few pictures maybe, if people are interested.
Of course I have no experience of their chassis', but from what I have seen they have certainly improved their quality.
Any update on how the build is going? I'm placing an order for new chassis and bulkhead soon so going through the usual Marsland/Richards/Shielder internal debate.
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Thanks for sharing that, Western, didn't realise i could use Google like that! So to answer my own questions:
1 - Kinda
2 - yes
3 - Valeo
4 - release bearing, slave cylinder
5 - still can't find any links to tutorials or step-by-steps. Some people take the engine out and others are pulling the gearbox back, both seem like a terrifying proposition to me!
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I'm getting the dreaded clutch judder on my 90 TD5 and i imagine it's time to replace it before it gives up on a drive somewhere. A couple of questions for you:
1 - is this a job i can do myself in my garage? I have a trolley jack, bottle jack, most tools and plenty of teabags
2.- do i absolutely need to replace the DMF as well?
3 - any recommended clutch manufacturers?
4 - is there anything else i need to replace whilst i'm in there? There's a high-pitched whine in the morning when i start it up and depress the clutch so i'm thinking release bearing as well?
5 - any links to tutorials anywhere? I've tried searching this forum but i couldn't find anything (probably my terrible searching skills)
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31 minutes ago, Snagger said:
backups and bypasses that allow continued operation with failed sensors or ECUs to allow the vehicle to work until it can be repaired where specialist work is required.
This is key imho, limp home mode is massively overused in modern vehicles and is far too easy to trigger. It should be up to me as the driver if I choose to push on even though there's a fault somewhere, not an ECU.
Thoughts and musings on the new defender
in New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
Posted
A bit off topic perhaps, but i've seen a few D4s and RRSs down your way, what happens when they go wrong i.e. how do you go about fixing them? I imagine spare parts aren't kept locally?