paime
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Posts posted by paime
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Not sure if this has been posted before but someone sent me this and i had to share.
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Now that's a good idea! I could wedge some 6x2 in the internals of the tub capping and lift from there. Maybe an extra sling into the top rail of the rear bulkhead as well. Then its just a case of lifting it up, quickly dragging the old chassis out and wheeling the new one in with no need for supports or stands as it'll only be in the air for a few minutes.
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Thanks @Litch! Do you have any images showing your lifting points on the inside of the rear tub there? The only reason i'm keeping things together is i've heard some real horror stories about panel alignment when people have taken things apart separately then stuck them back together but maybe if i did it in 2 parts (rear rub and roof then bulkhead) that might not be an issue.
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Things are moving along gradually now - got the rear axle brake lines installed and next i'll be running the brake lines along the inner chassis rail to the next connection point. After that it's just the fuel line to go and i'll be ready to separate the old body and chassis....which leads me to my next question....
I found a post on here (which i can't find again unfortunately) of someone who had used an engine crane through the rear window of a 110 to lift the body up by the rear bulkhead rather than use a post lift. I have one double garage with limited headroom and a 1tonne engine crane and need to figure out a way to get the old body onto the new chassis. Here's where i'm at so far:
Step 1: Separate engine at gearbox and lift engine out of old chassis and place on new chassis
Step 2: Undo all the chassis/body bolts and any remaining connections
Step 3: Lower the old chassis/body onto a pallet
Step 4: Lift the body off the chassis with an engine crane somehow and place on supports under the rear tub and under the bulkhead A posts
Step 5: Drag out the old chassis from beneath complete with gearbox and transfer case still attached
Step 6: Lift gearbox/transfer into new chassis
Step 7: Roll new chassis assembly under body
Step 8: Lower the body onto the new chassis and bolt it up
Any comments/suggestions on that procedure? I've been scratching my head for months about this bit so any help is much appreciated.
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Is there a modification that can be made for those grub screws? They're always the first thing to rust up and never seem to be able to get a robust grib on the spnidle.
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I was afraid you would say that! It won't be the first time i've had to undo previous work and i'm sure it won't be the last! Once i've got that fuel tank sorted i can plumb in fuel lines and then all i've got to do is transfer over the wiring looms before i can get to work on separating the old chassis from the body. Might be finished in time for christmas 2021 at this rate...
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1 hour ago, pete3000 said:
Tell me to shut up if you've spotted the bolt through the drop arm bracket is too long(stack of washers)/facing the wrong way, i can go and look what i used if it's useful, Think from memory it the same imperial bolt/nyloc nut as the a-frame balljoint bracket.
Pete
Shhhh....you're not supposed to see that bit! I've changed it out now. I bought 2 different bolts kits from YRM and neither of them worked with that top mount so i had to order one separately. It was a bit of a head-scratcher to begin with until i measured the top mount and noticed that the new chassis bracket was about 10mm shorter than the old chassis.
Does anyone know if it's possible to put a TD5 fuel tank in from the top rather than from underneath? I had a nightmare of a job getting the tank cradle to fit and then thought i could drop the fuel tank in from above but the filler neck seems to make that impossible. Ended up spilling lots of diesel on my shoes.
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Wow! Can't believe how good that looks compared to the first pics. Did it clean the internals as well?
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A bit more progress this weekend although its difficult to spot. Managed to get the fuel tank out and the towbar off plus got the steering box on. Struggling to get the old TRE off the steering bar but it's currently soaking in WD40 so fingers crossed I'll get it to budge tomorrow.
The more I strip off the old chassis the more rot I see. Genuinely amazed the whole thing didn't collapse in on itself when I still had it on the road!
Does anyone have any good ideas for how to fix the body mount in the last pic? Seems like electrolytic corrosion has eaten away quite a chunk.
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Good to know and panick over, thanks!
i tried removing the fuel tank last night and was met with pretty much every single nut and bolt being seized and sheering off. New fuel tank cradle ordered today as i'm going to have to carefully cut the old one out. Also tried to get the tow bar off and was met with the same problem. At this stage i think i'm just going to have to go care-free with the angle grinder and get as much off as possible. Oh the joys!
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Its been a while since my last update and I've managed to get a few things done. Work and family life has taken priority but nevertheless I finally have a rolling chassis. Built up quite a few elements and im now onto some more stripping of the old chassis. Im a bit worried about my spring alignment on the front as it seems like my axle is slightly off to one side. Will things settle down once the engine is on and the springs are compressed a bit more?
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At this stage of the new defender's life i think its more a case of whether you like the car rather than how reliable it is. As Eightpot says, there are always glitches with new cars and its still way too early to comment on long term build quality. Personally, I dont like them having test driven one but until there are thousands on the road with hundreds of thousands of combined miles you won't know how likely they are to give you issues.
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I'm intrigued by what this could be, have you got any pictures?
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Some good progress this weekend. Did a few smaller jobs that were needing done such as put new swivel pins on (the old ones were a bit notchy) and also changed the pinion seals as I had the usual diff leaks. Quick question on the latter - how far in should the seal be? I've got a sneaky feeling I tapped them in too far as they're about half an inch into the casing.
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A bit more progress today - managed to get the front axle built up and the wheels back on. Hopefully tomorrow i'll be able to get the radius arms, springs and dampers in place and then i'll have a rolling chassis at last. A couple of questions/observations from today:
1 - Broadly speaking, what are my next steps from here? I'm thinking brake lines (need to stop being a chicken and drill the chassis for the clips), then take out the engine, replace the clutch, pop it on the new chassis then lift off the old body.
2 - i was almost in tears this morning. I've spent a good bit of time finessing my lovely new gaitors for the swivels including bonding the rubber in place which was an absolute nightmare. When i came to fit the whole assembly to the axle i realised that i couldn't get the bolts in past the new gaitor. Because it's bonded in place, after an hour or so of chin scratching i came to the sad realisation that the only way i could get my swivels on was to cut off my new gaitors. Classic Britpart strikes again!
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One more vote for the osram bulbs from me. I've got them on the defender and couldn't believe the difference they made
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36 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Why don't you want to drill the chassis?
Rust, rust and more rust! I've never had a good experience with coatings and bare steel in the past and the last thing I want to do is introduce the prospect of the chassis starting to rust prematurely.
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I'm keen for the rubber mounts but im still way too much of a chicken to be drilling my lovely new chassis. I'm thinking I could use all the predicted holes and then use something like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281431740813
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I bought the britpart swivel housing repair kit the other week and have ditched all the bearings as they were the rattliest, flimsiest things I've ever seen. Some britpart stuff you'll happily take a chance on but its a rarity.
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4 hours ago, Litch said:
Don't forget that you have to drill the chassis for the brake-pipe & fuel-line clips. Certainly with the brake-lines it is easier to bend the pipes and then drill the hole where it is required rather than trying to bend the pipe to fit the clips (I used an Automech kit & brake-pipe bending tool, makes a neat job). When you have drilled the holes you want to etch prime, paint & treat before fitting the clips so it is easier to bend the pipes & dry-fit them before painting the chassis.
Hmmm, I may have not done this and my chassis is all nicely primed and painted now. Are there stick-on pipe clips you can get to save drilling?
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Its been a few weeks since I've managed to get anything done due to work but I managed to get the rear axle on today and hopefully I'll get the front one on tomorrow. Quick question - does anyone have a diagram showing where the brake lines run? I'm going to replace all the flexi hoses and run copper in place of the steel lines so was hoping to do that on the new chassis before its too difficult.
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16 minutes ago, western said:
This appeared on one of the Facebook Land Rover groups today, it's NOT a Defender
Thats confusing my brain
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16 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
The defender had the centre difflock as standard, no matter what year, it was only deleted for some TD5 Discoverys.
Sorry, poorly worded question. If my centre diff lock went pop and I had access to a disco one, would it be need fettling to fit?
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Excuse the ignorance but would that centre lock be a straight bolt-on for a defender TD5?
Wiper arms
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Many an allen key has been lost to those wee s*ds!