paime
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Posts posted by paime
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I believe these are known as the '3 Amigos' in some circles.... I had these showing on my TD5 and managed to get rid of them by cleaning all the earthing points thoroughly. I think on the Puma there are some other possible faults including hill descent wires and brake pedal switches but i might be wrong.
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I would second that, concrete is a heavy beast and once it starts moving to area you don't want it to be in, it's a nightmare to do anything with.
What size mesh are you going to use? 1 course or 2 courses? Also, what finish are you going for, brushed or floated?
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The solenoids are prone to giving up on TD5s. Not an expensive job but not a fun one either.
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I've heard mixed opinions in the past with some people saying that waxoyl actually traps moisture against the steel work and may enhance corrosion over the years. I think if you were to do it in a proper heated spray booth then that might help though? If i ever get round to doing my chassis i think i'll probably coat the inside as my current one seems to be rotting from the inside out.
On another note, did you keep the earthing points covered when the satin paint was going on or will you remove the paint later?
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Looks great! Will you do any waxoyling/coating on the internals at all?
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I had to use a couple of ratchet straps to pull the screen down enough to get the bolts into the brackets, should it be that difficult?
11 hours ago, Eightpot said:The bulkhead sits on chassis mounts as well as outriggers, so don't start cutting stuff up. Windscreen bolts are never easy to fit.
It sounds like you just need to adjust the top door hinge - move it forward where it attaches to the bulkhead. This will pick the rear of the door up.
I'll maybe do some minor modification with a file to the top holes where the captive nuts sit in the bulkhead and see if that makes a difference.
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That's a terrifying prospect tbh! It's not terrible just now and must only be out by about 3mm so i'm not massively concerned. Chassis swap is due in Spring next year so i think that will be the time to line everything back up again.
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now i think about it, getting the windscreen hinge bolts in was a nightmare and that's probably because the screen was sitting too high with the roof. It all makes sense now!
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Yup, front wings came off for the job. Feeling like a numpty now! I've got to put a new chassis on next year anyway so maybe i'll just have to deal with a slightly annoying door close until then.
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What didn't i weld might be an easier question! It was mostly done on the chassis and new outriggers as well. I put one new corner on the top of the OS bulkhead corner but the holes for the hinges were bigger than the original holes so there was no restriction in movement. There is a difference in height between the curve on the body and the door (will post pics later) and it looks like the whole door should be lifted a couple of mm straight up. Trouble is i don't have that much movement available to me in either the bottom hinge (where no work was done) or the top hinge.
Thinking about it, is it possible the bulkhead has sunk a little when i removed the old outriggers getting ready for the new ones? I only did one side at a time in the hope that nothing would move.
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So after all the welding and fannying around i finally got the old girl through her MOT. I put the doors on in a bit of a hurry the first time round as i was 1 day away from my free re-test so tried to do a better job of it over the weekend. Is there a technique/process i should follow to get them to hang properly? The doors line up quite nicely with the bottom of the rear wing and the A-post but the catch on the B post is about 3mm too high. I'm lowered the catch as much as i can but it still rubs on the door trim when opening and closing. I've played around with the shims in the hinges and i've even used (don't get mad at me, please) a trolley jack and a bit of wood to lift the rear of the door up to make sure everything is as high as it will go but still no joy. Any suggestions?
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A half marathon followed by removing a chassis from a Defender?? You're making us all feel bad here!!
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Is the swivel assembly on the other side the same and have you got any pics? My instinct would be to replace like for like as it if ain't broke, don't fix it.
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On 9/11/2019 at 12:27 PM, soutie said:
I have tried the wire wheel and wire cup and they are not as effective as the flap disks. You need to have some areas where the plastic has lifted or all they do is polish the plastic.
+1 for flap discs but be careful with them. It's amazing how powerful they can be and it's easy to rip a bit more metal out that you had initially planned.
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2 hours ago, western said:
2 hi lift Jack's, & a couple of helpers to slide the wooden beams & barrels in to place, we lifted the rear off chassis first then the front. There is a extract from my chassis change thread in the tech archive.
Just spent a good hour trawling through your chassis thread, excellent work btw!
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9 hours ago, western said:
When we lifted my 110 body, the grille panel came out, gear levers removed & we only needed to lift it off the chassis so transfer lever cleared the bulkhead, body was left on wooden beams & 4 x 45 gallon drums.
What did you use to lift the body? Farm jacks, chain hoists or bacon & coffee fuelled helpers?
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
Yes that's still around a foot. But with the front still on it's about two foot to clear the engine.
Mike
If you're pulling the chassis out from the front then what does the engine need to clear? Particularly if the wings are off, is there anything else going to be in the way?
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How are you planning to do the swap? Do you have access to a lift or are you going to remove the body panel by panel? Mine needs done as well as i'm in the middle of welding, what feels like, patch number 10,239,292. I've seen various methods using scaffolding poles and chain hoists to lift the body clear but i was wondering if you removed the radiator and front panels if you could roll the chassis out by only lifting the body up by a few inches on scaff poles and farm jacks?
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2 minutes ago, Snagger said:
I still maintain that this is no successor to the Defender, in market, role, character, adaptability or dependability (slightly different from reliability). Time will tell if it’s capable as a drive and reliable, but it is clearly not suitable for works, emergency services, military or expedition type use, and is thus unfit for the name. It’s just a slightly beefier D5 it’s body kit for the rich hipster, but guess what? They’ll want electric vehicles, so this’ll be another nail in LR’s coffin, with more brand dilution and model confusion, competing for sales with other LR products instead of other brands.
Essentially this
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6 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Could you have said this about the D1 or RRC when those came out though? Or the FL or D2, D3, etc... as they get cheaper people are using them for "utilitarian" purposes with no qualms and I don't see much more or less problem with scratching a brand new shiny "old" Defender than one of these?
Sure it would feel bad to throw a muddy dog in the back of a brand new car, but that would be true for almost anything brand new.
Respectfully, i'm not sure i agree. The new Defender has been marketed as a utility off roader but yet it'll cost way too much and will likely be too fragile to risk being used in anger. I would group it in with the D3 and D4 which were aimed at a more gentile market that might drive it across a grass field on their way to the next pheasant drive but nothing more, despite it's abilities. The old Defender, on the other hand, was used by many in anger straight out of the wrapper. I have no issues with the new Defender being used for the school run but it's not a patch on the old Defender and doesn't even sit in the same bracket as it imho
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18 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Quite a bit more info on Autocar about spec, trim, and release dates:
https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-land-rover-defender-2019
Taken from this article: "The Defender 90 is described as the “halo image icon” of the Defender and is aimed at “the young, affluent fun seekers”.
I think that sums up the new Defender for me. I'm sure it'll be an accomplished vehicle that looks flashy and fits in well on the school run but it won't be the kind of vehicle that you could actually use for work. I'd be terrified of scratching it or bending those plastic bits. The interior will also be far too nice to chuck a load of timber in the back or accommodate my dogs when they've been rolling in god-knows-what. I agree with others who say this should've been the next Disco instead of the misshapen hippo they produced.
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1 hour ago, DC_ said:
I put them straight on out the wrapper... didn’t have to do a thing to them 😎
Happy days!
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On 8/6/2019 at 1:03 PM, DC_ said:
I got these a year ago and they never got painted, still looking good after a full season in Scotland.
Steeped my old hinges in Coke and it appears to have removed the rust that was keeping them tight. They're now flapping around all over the place and are badly pitted in areas so i'm going to buy new.
DC - are these ones zinc plated or do i have to coat them myself?
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31 minutes ago, Maverik said:
I recently found this stuff on ebay, not purchased yet, but I reckon it could be useful.
That does look quite good. This was the other stuff i've found but not sure if it's up to the job: https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-flexible-strip-caulk-dum-dum-replacement/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh5z2kbSR5AIV0OR3Ch1buw4gEAkYAiABEgJ3bPD_BwE
What Tyres
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Sadly my old Cooper STTs are nearing the end of their tread and i need to replace all 4 of them. I've got about 35k miles out of them in the end so i'm pretty pleased however they were a bit noisy. They were 265/75/16. What's everyone else running and are there any recommendations? I wouldn't mind getting something quieter (smaller?) but i also quite like the look of chunkier tyres. Thoughts please!