paime
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Posts posted by paime
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22 minutes ago, Simon Smith said:
I did this once on my old 110, bought a can of vinyl spray and it worked a treat, never got worn off over the ten years or so I owned it.
Was it something like this you used? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rust-Oleum-Direct-Aerosol-Chairs-Dashboards/dp/B01D1OAUMY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vinyl+spray+paint&qid=1579784172&sr=8-1
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i'd say that oil leak is most likely coming from the rear of the rocker cover and leaking down the back of the block to the location you see it there. Not a serious issue and a new gasket should fix it.
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Scratchy horrible plastic by the feel of it!
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I have light grey front door cards just now and I'd like to replace them with black ones. The cost of new cards is annoying me so I considering painting my current ones. Has anyone done anything similar? Any hints/tips?
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+1 for the chinese heater. I put one in my 90 a month ago and it's been brilliant ever since. £160 well spent imho!
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Anytime! Hope the wagon keeps going well!
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Does it feel like a misfire when the engine is under load? Mine used to feel like i'd hit a wall when i was going up a hill at 50mph+ or sometimes i couldn't even get to 50mph and it turned out to be a stuck wastegate actuator. It's very easy to check if this is causing a problem, just remove the circlip and pin from the rod end of the actuator and see if you can easily move the lever on top of the turbo. Mine needed copious amounts of WD40 and a slight nudge with a hammer to free it up but it instantly cured my problems.
Here's a video on it:
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17 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
You could just fit it and try it paime, its a mornings work.
If you don't like it you can change it back.
Cost is 2 oil fills.
Mo
Didn't realise it was a morning's work so i reckon that's the best approach. Worst case scenario i can always swap back. Is it straight forward enough to swap them over or will i need adaptor plates and the strength of 10 men to wrangle it into place?
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Thanks all, plenty to ponder. A friend has the 1.2 in his 300tdi, will driving that give me a good insight into how it would feel in a TD5 or is the difference in engines too much to make them comparable?
On 12/17/2019 at 9:25 AM, Ed Poore said:
???
Didn't you read my posts? Out of the last 8 years I've been running a 1.2 box it's only been the last 6 months that I've had a tweaked engine? Was perfectly happy with it before BUT having now got a tweaked engine it's much better. So I wouldn't worry about the engine side of things if you've already got the transfer box lying around.
Bearing in mind all mine has had is a tweak to the pump, no change to turbo and/or intercooler.
My turbo is a bit shoogly (technical term) and my intercooler is full of gunk and collapsing in on itself so i'll need to replace them but only back to stock, i'm not going to upgrade in the pursuit of more bhp. Your post said you "lived with it" so i sensed some frustration with the standard level of tuning in a TD5 when mated to a 1.2 transfer box?
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I mostly just potter around town and then out to the in-laws which involves some dual carriageway stuff and some 60mph driving. I would like to take it on longer runs at 70mph as well but it's just far too noisy hence my thinking to use the 1.211 transfer i've managed to acquire. I think i'll wait until i've done the intercooler and had the turbo rebuilt before swapping it out. Sounds like everyone has improved their engines in some way before doing it so i'll follow suit.
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So essentially it's a good thing to do but only if i apply some tuning to the engine?
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I've got Grabber AT3s 235/85/16 on steel modulars. I do a mix of town and dual carriageway stuff and the noise at 70mph makes me sad.
If i go down this route, will i need to modify anything to make it fit/work or is just a case of swapping over the handbrake mechanism and off i go?
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A friend of mine has inherited a Discovery 300tdi transfer box, would this be worth fitting to my 90 TD5 to give me a bit more legs in 5th gear? I'm aware that there is a conversion to be done which helps out Defenders in 5th but i can't remember if it's a disco TD5 box that's required or whether a 300tdi transfer will work.
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43 minutes ago, monkie said:
This maybe quite ignorant of me and I am willing to accept my knowledge of diesel fired heaters is in it's infancy - the words "Chinese" and "heat" put together in this context make me think 😬.......
....sorry but I can't help it!🤪
I'll admit that image is never far from my mind either! There are now quite a few forums and postings by people who have them installed. The quality control process is my main concern with it rather than the design. If it's been built to it's design spec then there shouldn't be any issues. If it hasn't been built to it's design spec however....
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i have a new matrix, new thermostat, fresh coolant, adjusted heater controls and it still struggles with heat. it's a good bit colder up here in the mornings, probably about 2C every morning and that certainly doesn't help. Chinese heat has fixed the problem for me so i'm a convert.
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15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
2nd hand Eberspachers & Webastos can be had for ~£150 ish, just need to make sure you get the fuel pump & any controllers / relay boxes with them.
I'd still take a 2nd hand German heater over a brand new Chinese one although I do know a couple of people with them who say they work well enough.
You might get a decent Webasto during the summer months for £150 but i haven't seen one go for less than £250 incomplete on ebay recently. Must be a few LR owners out there starting to feel the cold!
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My 90TD5 doesn't heat up at all on my commute to work as it's all town driving and quite stop-start. I looked at new and second hand Webasto and Planars but it was going to be about £600 minimum for one of the Planar kits. I therefore took the leap of faith into the Chinese ones and, so far so good (touch wood). Takes less than 5 minutes in the morning to heat the car up. My only criticisms are it's quite a bit bigger than a Webasto and i'm yet to hide it properly, and it's a bit difficult to control the heat output. The temp control only controls the speed of airflow so it does get quite hot in the cabin after a while. Rather that than too cold though! It cost me £160 all in and took about 2 hours to fit.
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+1 for checking if the wheels look out of alignment. It's quite easy to pinch the top swivel bearing when you're tightening everything back up. If you've done that then you'll likely need a new bearing as well.
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I have the same issue on my TD5. I finally had enough of wearing gloves and a hat everywhere i went and have just installed one of those cheap Chinese diesel heaters. Now my cabin warms up in about 5 minutes and i don't even notice what temp the engine is running at. Took about 2 hours to fit and now i just need to find a better place for it. Worth considering imho.
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We have an exmoor rear mat in the company 110. I remember being disappointed with it when we were installing it, primarily because it just wouldn't sit right in the back. After a few years of hauling heavy peli cases around it's moulded to the correct form a bit better but still not what i was expecting from Exmoor. The lack of a clean edge where the mat goes from the top of the wheel well to the vertical face annoyed me a lot and no amount of double sided tape seemed to fix it.
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What's the ABS problem?
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I fitted BP calipers a few years ago and (touch wood) so far they haven't given me any troubles. Makes a big difference having refurbed calipers over rusty old ones but if you're replacing pistons and seals then i'm sure you'll see the same benefits.
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9 hours ago, DC_ said:
So it’s -5 here tonight.... clicked the button on the remote..... leaving it 35 minutes to see what the outcome is....❄️❄️❄️
How did it go? Ice on the inside of my windscreen this morning so thoroughly looking forward to the prospect of having some heat!
On a related note, what's everyones thoughts on plumbing the heater output into the lower dash panel to distribute the hot air via the footwell vents? Would it lose too much heat in the process?
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When I first bought my TD5 I remember there being a hatch already cut in the rear floor. Had a wee rummage around tonight and it looks as though the PO has replaced the fuel pump in the past and I've now got handy access to it. I've read elsewhere that you can tap into the grey spare nipple in the image here. Anyone know how that works? Do you just cut the end off and attach a fuel hose or do you need a stand pipe of sorts?
???
Copying and making a part
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
@jdbloke if you can find a willing volunteer who already has the bracket lying around I can tell them how to take images which I can then use to create an accurate 3D model if that's off any use?