Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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subscribed.
I do understand what you mean by not having someone to share it with, I find travelling is best when shared as we all take something different from it.
I hope you get some companions for any future ventures
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Is anyone going?
We’re camping over the weekend, if you’re there drop in and say hi, always good to put faces to names 😁
Look for the bright green 110, beers will be cold, you can’t miss us 👍
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I’ve turned my hand to a little fabrication work. I’m still in virgin territory or at least 2nd base when it comes to waving a electric sticky stick ( or wire and gas in this case ) around so bear with me with the results 😁
It came about when I got rid of the top box to replace it with a roof tent so I was running out of storage inside and figured some bits can be fitted to the outside when travelling.
The first item is the Bushpig. It’s a metal box used for cooking or containing a fire, quite useful and becoming more and more popular with Nikki for cooking in rather than the petrol stove.
The rear quarter seemed like a good place to put it and thus began my fabrication marvel.
i needed to make a swivel bracket and no idea how but I found myself in possession of a left over part from the rear wheel carrier so used that.
i made a receiver bracket using 30mm 3mm bar by scoring the folds, folding then welding and drilling to make the hinge bit
after this I made a bar to go over the entire box and be able to place a padlock to lock it up. Again I scored the joints, bent to the angle and welded them up.
the welds are a tad rough but I got there in the end and I’m happy with the result.
The bushpig itself uses the tabs to sit in these little hooks I made and riveted to the body work to keep it in place
I also did some brackets for the 270 awning, but that’s for another post
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Clutchfix is my latest but if I’m honest it replaced a 50k +standard cheap clutch which never gave any issues
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Welcome to Land Rover alignment
The door when laid flat will curve inwards and this is why your lock area is proud when the tops are in the correct position.
Remove the rubbers as they'll get damaged whilst you bend and manipulate the doors.
I started with the lock area, this is your datum point, so get them to shut and remain engaged with the lock, then pull the tops of the doors out to allow them to sit correctly.
How you do this is down to you as they're your doors.
I used bits of wood, my weight and at one point, a rubber mallet and quite abit of swearing
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Was that including the cost of the truck too?
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I got bored after 2 minutes, how much was it?
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Nice work Stephen
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In reality you’ll be busy faffing swapping the low to high and engaging the gears the lose momentum and after a few attempts, your temper😂
By the time you’ve cracked it, you’ll probably run out of hill 😁
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Great shots as usual Naks
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3 hours ago, Finn12 said:
I’ve got a 1988 landrover defender with a 19 J turbo that has just been rebuilt and she goes like Frick and rolls coal. The engine has done about 10,000 miles now not a single problem she has way more power than the TD5 discovery that I had before
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Finally getting somewhere with the fuel issue.
I stripped the wiring loom down to check for any faults within it as the problem was related to the engine being at running temperature. I found nothing in this area and re wrapped certain areas in fibreglassed wrap with metal cable ties and heat resistant cloth tape.
Finding nothing I moved onto the next idea which was to install a clear fuel line from the last elbow of the fuel line to the rear of the hp fuel pump in the hope that I could see air being introduced to the fuel line, thus maybe finding an issue before the fuel pump.
I rigged up the line into the cab and went for a drive and this was the result;
As you can see, there is lots of air being introduced when under load.
After finding this I rigged up a temporary fuel tank in the passenger side and took it for a spin
No issue whatsoever ever
The next step is to replace the fuel lines working back from the engine ( the ones from filter to tank were replaced when I did the aux tank )
Mentally you think there is an issue with something you've done...having the engine out and rebuilding it, there's always the thought I may have done something wrong or cocked up somewhere, it's nice to find out the problem is something of a coincidence and nothing to do with what I did with the rebuild.
Although the problem isn't solved, I'm happy it's not the engine ;)
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I love Kinder Bueno's as well.
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I’m looking at the re routing where possible to keep some of the cable away from major heat, in fact the crankshaft sensor and alternator cable are the worst hit as they sit below the exhaust.
I have a glass mat which can be wrapped and secured with metal ties coming tomorrow.
The loom has been removed, stripped of all conduit and tape and methodically checked today for any signs of damage and other than a few cables into the turbo actuator controller splitting their out cable, it does all look to be in good shape
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On 4/27/2021 at 6:47 PM, Ed Poore said:
Only had it since mid January but been suitable impressed by the Ulefone Armor X8. Dropped it a fair few times and from height and not suffered, it's got the case built into it. Waterproof (even a submersible mode for the camera). Think it was £124 from Amazon when I bought it.
I had 2 of these, ear piece speaker went on the first one and the second one just died after a few months.
Certainly tough, but the internals didn't turn out to be that good.
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In my ever lasting quest to work out the issue in the truck, I’m going to remove the wiring loom, check it and re wrap it in a suitable heat resistant wrap.
There are many online but does anyone have a recommendation to something they’ve used in the past?
Rather than a sleeve as that requires me to remove plugs and connectors which I don’t wish to do , I’m looking for a bandage like wrap
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On 4/26/2021 at 1:52 PM, landroversforever said:
Not too familiar with diesel tuning.... is there anything like the warm up enrichment of a petrol? Could that be why it's ok until the higher temp?
The fuel is dragged through from the tank via the filter with no pre warming, however It is cooled on the return line via a fuel cooler which determines whether the fuel on the return goes back to the tank or re circulated via the filter.
I've ordered some push on clips and 5 metres of clear fuel hose. I shall make up a line from the last joint before the pump, feed it into the cab and back to the pump so I can see if any air is being introduced to the pump when the fuel pressure is high and the engine is at temperature.
If everything is good from that point of view then the issue would be from the pump onwards.
Crank, cam, Cylinder head temperature sensors have been replaced as part of the maintenance/elimination.
We have a very good local garage who will find a fault or not charge you, but they're booked until the 10th May, so I have until then to find the problem or give it to them.
I bought a little GS500E 1990 bike on Sunday to get to work on, it's nice to be back in the saddle, and a classic at that
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Quality work here
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A good point and one I've thought of, however I've checked the fuel lines methodically yesterday and can't find any faults with them.
I've also replaced the VCV and the pressure release valve as a process of elimination as well as de tuned and returned the ECU to stock settings. This has helped somewhat with the running but I think this is more to do with the fact the engine isn't requiring higher fuel rates in stock mode.
I have noticed the engine is ' noisier ' than before, and I'm wondering if the timing is slightly out and could this cause a failure of fuel at high pressure?
When the injectors are required to present high rates of fuel and if the timing isn't perfect, could they be failing to combust the fuel....but on the other hand, there is no sign of white smoke caused by unburnt diesel when this is happening ( that I have noticed ) and why would this symptom only happen when the engine is above 90C
The next point is to remove the fuel lines and blow them through to make sure there is no contamination when the engine was out, after this I'm running out of ideas other than replace the HP fuel pump
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hehe not sure It was worth it with the hassle I've had since!
Now the truck will drop fuel pressure when it gets to temperature and conk out.
Before that, it runs perfectly. I'm stumped as to what's causing it as nothing is showing up as a fault.
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Not that I can tell...the small opening to the right is the bell housing but that’s not showing any signs of oil from the bottom where you’d expect it with a leaking rear seal.
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Tracing an odd oil leak has thrown up a wet oil patch here
what I don’t understand is why this area is wet with old blackish oil ( several oil changes since the rebuild so most oil weeps I’ve found are clearer )
The egr valve sits in front of it which contains no oil and I can’t see a trace of oil from behind the head so I’m stumped...
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4 hours ago, jason110 said:
Sorry gents but in this instance, I’m struggling to see why this thread needs to continue.
in my opinion, it has become somewhat tasteless with discussing the smaller details of the Dukes’ Land Rover.
regardless of one’s personal feelings about the royals, they have lost a husband, father and grandfather and I feel we should respect that.
With a group of likeminded individuals the topic doesn’t always stay on course from the opening sentence, that’s human nature to continue a conversation, it moves within the subject.
Everyone here is respectful of the situation and the topic
Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Stephen if I become even half the fabricator you are I'd be more than happy with myself! You do influence me to try stuff