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Badger110

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Posts posted by Badger110

  1. Not yet and to be honest, I wasn't planning on going that far.

     

    The engine runs fine other than the oil leak and a few limp mode issues under real heavy load, it's done well for 160k.  

     

    The initial issue and reason for stripping it was the pressure in the rocker caused by blowback past the injector seals.  Carbon deposits on the injector seats and in the rocker itself has shown this has been an ongoing problem, but one which I was aware of.

     

    The replacement cams from turners are £850 including a new carrier with followers (best to do at the same time ) however after spending an entire evening and morning pouring over pictures of cam wear and other's opinions, I'm not overly worried about the state of these.  

    Yes they are worn, that Is evident, but not excessive enough to not keep it going for another month or 2 whilst I save up to have them replaced.

    Transit Mk7 aftermarket cams are identical and cheaper for the 2.4 Puma engine.

     

     

  2. 1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

    That is a better picture, just thinking out of the box a wee bit, could you not rig something up similar to the retractable steps on a Motorhome where by you only have to pull it out and it moves down with the action and vice versa for it to go back into position, could even be electrified,and also I would recommend some thought into choice of materials as you don't want whatever system you use to get rusted/ corroded with all the carp of the day being sprayed up off the tyres regards Stephen

    Not a bad idea for this side as it does sit higher, the NS will sit level with the bottom of the rock slider due to the battery box.

     

    It would be fairly simple to achieve that too...

     

    7 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    Thinking of your tank mount.... what about some hinges straps with over-centre catches? Like you get on the sides of a transit tipper. If you’re worried about them pinging undone, you can get them with a hole for an Rclip. 

    you’ll have to show me a picture as I’m not sure what you mean :wacko: :) 

  3. 31 minutes ago, Arjan said:

    Normal nuts and R-clips come to mind to lock that in place...

    Nice work !

    Not a bad call on the clips, it'll stop the bugger coming undone.

     

    It would be nice to come up with something that doesn't require a tool to release possibly?

     

     

    With regards to the rust proofing of the exterior of the engine ( ie the oil leak ) I removed the injectors and the rocker cover to come up with some interesting finds.

     

    The injector nearest the bulkhead was covered in carbon carp 

    0680C1D2-9B63-4898-904F-54368CDD8D63.thumb.jpeg.d4557ea4dbecfbe221d899657921e2f0.jpegF2542D02-CF93-44C2-9F94-3B154DD132E1.thumb.jpeg.0dbd54db0886720e3c968e57e8aa6c47.jpeg

     

    although the copper washer doesn't look too bad and neither do the other 3.

     

    Whipping out my camera I poked it down the injector bore to see how the seat looked and was presented with this;

     

    BMPP0002.JPG.a8f67eec5bb9450e82f6a4a3c8d01f66.JPGBMPP0003.JPG.e8671e8a5d758b974d8b92f273ea7c8d.JPG

     

    The rest are similar;

    BMPP0005.JPG.acedd4a940da562d5a0199487cc8f5cf.JPGBMPP0006.JPG.ae17cf8f31a7748e114d14d58d2a615d.JPGBMPP0004.JPG.b103736d56956f75f4df83af4e1e58a5.JPG

     

    I can order a tool and get the faces cleaned but of course there's the issue of carp falling into the cylinder.  The bores are pretty filthy and whatever has been floating around in there has gotten everywhere inside the camshaft area.

     

    I think the only course of action from here is to whip off the camshaft housing and then the head and get it all done without worrying about contamination in the cylinders plus I can get a nosey at the state of the bores & pistons etc.

     

    It does mean the timing chain can be done at the same time.

     

     

     

     

     

  4. A slightly better picture 

     

    D572A3C0-7E63-45D3-806D-6A354E9A52C3.jpeg.9ab8c05228d48b1cd8b48e6ff663dfe1.jpeg
     

    Next job is one that has been put off for sometime and that is to tackle the slight oil leak...

     

    A86949EE-1AE9-4691-B387-2A90F6E50B48.jpeg.01164de5ec5092d022a00f45a2e4a8f8.jpeg
     

    After the trip last week it’s progressing well 

    711A9F5D-D8C7-4E8F-87AD-C4694E918BF5.jpeg.1983e50b86da0c3b5d9cf179d3d2b8cb.jpeg
     

    Im able to keep the truck off the road this week which gives me time to investigate and get some parts in as and when needed.

     

    I believe the entire issue is down to the injectors not seated/worn washers, if this is the case then I’ll be doing the timing chain as well

  5. I’ve been looking at carrying extra fuel for future trips and having a twin jerrycan set up has been great in the past, it’s not a great way to carry fuel as it’s bulky.

     

    Rotapax do a slimline 5 gallon ( 20litre ) jobby which isn’t cheap so I dogged around until I found a similar idea much cheaper.  
     

    The containers are 800mm x 300mm x 100mm and carry 20litres and come in an attractive green colour.

     

    The idea was to undersling them so I set to work to come up with an idea to mount them out of the way and keep the centre of gravity low.

     

    I made a simple frame from 30mm x 4mm steel 

    090562C1-E525-4717-9CB6-2FBD54FFBAB5.jpeg.7e3b2aa9359ef57281caf845b3c2bfed.jpeg

     

    after this I used threaded bar to make the clamping points 

     

    600E348C-AAC2-46E6-A0BD-D9410C91CCB1.jpeg.d998d241e88f6a4b5e9ed87a7a305685.jpeg

     

    and then clamped the Fuel containers using a aluminium plate to hole in place.

     

    262D6589-DEA8-4857-9838-1C2C8420FAB1.jpeg.c842d70c5f1b112ebacb80b8b20ee0a7.jpeg

     

    this allows a low profile fuel container at 100mm or 4” to be mounted.

     

    I will look at a simpler way of locking it into position rather than nylon lock nuts, but this worked.  
     

    I have used what we call cow mat which is a 18mm soft rubber mat cut In half to reduce vibration issues 

    5912AEAC-87DE-4090-AE23-C9CC6E33926C.jpeg.1bdbd9f2e4ef45e2bacfba4fff8e6901.jpeg

    F234B53A-5DB1-4128-A502-77AD01B995BB.jpeg

    • Like 1
  6. Just now, FridgeFreezer said:

    There's a lot to be said for simple!

    I completely agree and I'm usually one for doing so, but sometimes I need to know if something is possible and can I do it...so I end up with something rather swanky but then I sit back and go ' sod it ' and ditch it for the simple solution.

     

    I think it's the thrill of making/creating it in the first place...I'm like it at work when something needs building.

    I'll try the impossible, create the probable, but don't ask me to make more than one as the enthusiasm is lost after the first one!

     

  7. I've spent the last 3 nights in the truck and it has been very pleasant.  

     

    Keeping it warm without the Webasto going isn't really possible, even with all the insulation and curtains/shields at the windows, it's still cold, but what did I expect given it's still not fully finished inside and there are gaps at the base of the doors still on the NS.

     

    It is comfy though, the full width sofa is nice, the bed is great and the interior cupboards are doing their job. 

     

    I'm still not happy with the plumbing...I made it too complicated for what It is and it's nice to have a sliding worktop with sink and tap, but I've shown myself that a bottle or small tank with a tap does just a good a job and is much less to go wrong.

     

    Carpet tiles are a god send as a mishap with a bottle of water caused a wet patch which was easily dried out by removing one tile and leaving it in the sun.

     

    The Webasto is noisy on the intake so I shall route that to draw from the outside...I have an idea of where it can go.

     

    It is properly cosy in here now and I'm pleased with what I've achieved with it so far...the colour draws attention which is to be expected!

     

    One issue on the drive up here is the entire truck is pulling to the left now, I can't see any major issues underneath, tyre pressures are spot on, but I did have a rack rod end replaced on last mot, so I'll do the other ones and set it back up.  Brake callipers were replaced not long ago too.  When I was investigating the brake bind issue, I have noticed the entire steering does clunk when turning at times and that does point to a track rod end giving up.

     

    • Like 3
  8. The force of your foot going down is enough to cut through, that's interesting.   I saw one at the back of a workshop once and it had belts and pulleys attached to it and shook the ground when it was used, I figured this one was powered as well.

     

    What kind of thickness/material does it cut?

     

     

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