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Badger110

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Posts posted by Badger110

  1. I did wonder where you was going to put it!  

    Having never seen your workshop in it's entirety, I know you're limited with all the gear you keep adding ;)

    How is the guillotine powered?  

     

    Any TD5 auto box's by chance....

  2. It's an odd one...those who appreciate the older more refined classic RR will probably not be in the fan club and those that like the modification won't be in the original unmolested fan club.

     

    However, if you can do it, then crack on :D

  3. As I now have all 4 doors as I wanted, it is time to finish the interior of them

     

    To start with, I wanted to reinstall the central locking for the front doors, the 2nd row would prove to be a tad difficult and it's not a biggie if they aren't on the key fob.

     

    I took an old lock and split it open to see if I could create a similar set up to the rear door lock ( which has a central locking pin ) but after some hacking about, it wasn't happening without making a hash of it...ask me how I know :P

     

    The simplest idea was to attach a rod to the locking latch from the actuator.  


    I'll post pics tomorrow.

     

    I replaced the amp and sub with an all in one flat unit, great bits of kit and now I was able to re instate the 3rd leisure battery.

    under the rear seat box is 

    3 leisure batteries ( 260Ah total )

    A shunt with digital read out

    A MPPT

    Split charger 

     

    A few pics and yes I know the Neg busbar is wonky, I did that to upset those with OCD :P

    420833B0-B5EE-49A5-A361-4879B24EE65C.thumb.jpeg.80e7ef2026af66246845e81f76b04ccf.jpeg

    9E6FF443-1E37-4655-A9FE-44F1EBB2970C.thumb.jpeg.6411428a018aed839514534ae317d1c6.jpeg

    249FD71B-8498-4C34-BF9D-73D0E22D6A42.thumb.jpeg.3c21fc0e21615dd889e047db785b15d4.jpeg

     

    The PSW inverter is housed under the drivers seat and is a bit overkill now.  I bought it originally to power a domestic fridge, but it draws too much power so ditched it for a Dometic draw unit.

     

    The rear fuse board is attached to Batt 3 as well as the Arb compressor.  

     

    The split charge is a simple Victron Cyrix with battery to battery join for the starting battery should I need it.  

     

    The MPPT deals with the 180W panel on the roof.

     

    The battery monitor and shunt is a amazon special ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-Voltmeter-Motorhome-Lead-Acid/dp/B07CTKYFTG/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2XLS5C8V8KSBF&dchild=1&keywords=12v+battery+monitor+with+shunt&qid=1615325221&sprefix=12v+battery+monitor%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-7 )  does what it says on the tin.  The neg is straight to the busbar and everything attaches to that.  This is then straight to the Earth point by the battery box.

     

    It's all worked for the past year or so, I went from 3 batteries down to 2, then back to 3.  Even during the winter and dull days the system doesn't drop too much if I leave the truck alone for a week, I think the worst was 12.7v.

     

    The batteries themselves are 2 Haze 85Ah Gel and a single ambulance 90Ah AGM.   I've looked at LifePo batteries, but at the moment the system works so no real need to change it.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 8 hours ago, andy _1 said:

    I mean where does everyone think the rest of the led stuff is made, its CHINA ,

     

    Dude, China isn't one big factory churning out the same stuff for everyone.  Companies that use products or elements of products made in China etc, do so with guidelines, legality and quality control as it's their product being sold outside of China.

     

    What you have listed is a knock off produced by someone who has none of the above.

    • Like 1
  5. When I fitted the aux tank in the OS rear quarter, it protrudes slightly into the wheel arch area, nothing to worry about as when the wheel goes up it doesn't touch it, but I won't be fitting 37" beasties anytime soon!

     

    However looking at replacing the current XZL 7.5's, I wanted to work out what size in metric will not go beyond the same circumference as the current tyre.

     

    In metric, the size is 190/107/R16 for the XZL's which I worked out by measuring the tyre width ( 190mm ) the sidewall ( 200mm ) and it's a 16" rim.

     

    255/85/16 has a sidewall size of 200mm and will provide a better fill to the arches without me worrying about it hitting the aux tank and are suited for the wolf rims.

     

     

  6. 6 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

    Was there any explanation as to what they were trying to acheive or why? They must have had a very specific look in their mind, I am genuinely curious as to how they feel about the result and what the motivation was. There's a fair amount of effort gone into it, like movng the hinges and slam pannel, the sheet metal in making up the sides. Then making a hole in the raised section for no apparent reason. And that's not even mentioning the paintwork.

    So many questions to be answered.

     

    I would hazard a guess and say they're trying to make it look a Dodge Ram or something similar.

     

    They failed.

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