David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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This'll likely be an easy one 'for those that know' - the passenger rear door doesn't illuminate the interior lights when opened, but I can't find the usual switches as I assumed it'd likely be a dirty connection with this age of vehicle. Can anybody point me in the direction of where the switch is located please?
Thanks
There is no separate switch. It's part of the latch. A clean and de-gunk of the latch may be sufficient to allow the microswitch to work, or it might be a wiring fault in the door, or at the door to body loom connection. For the rear doors this is probably hidden in the B pillar.
Just in case it needs making clear, the switch doesn't control the lights. The switch signals the BECM, and it's the BECM which completes the circuit for the lights.
HTH
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Yes. I'm assuming that as the existing motor is still connected to the plug, and your 'new' motor will come with cut wires I think connection will be by an inline solder and heat shrink. ISTR that all the wires are different colours, so it's just cut the old motor out and solder the wires colour to colour..... As I can get a single motor a good bit cheaper than all three I think I'll go for that option, so for the five wires is that two for the motor and three for a pot for position feedback?
You can't 'force' it to self calibrate. It will either be within limits (no action required), or it won't, in which case somebody, Dealer or 'Independent with the kit' runs through a Calibration procedure.Once fitted, and assuming it's a pot, can I force it to self calibrate or will it entail a visit to a dealer?
Note that the system does a self calibrate occasionally, it tells you in the book the number of operations between calibrations, but I can't be bothered to look it up. The HEVAC system does a self check every time you switch it on, which is why you can get away with just installing a new motor. I don't know where you are getting your motor from, but are you certain it's going to be good?
Reports say that recalibrating a worn motor isn't a guarantee of long term success.
HTH
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You are thinking VDO, and asking where is good to buy them from. I have no idea.
I'm thinking McGill Motorsport - http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=25
They also sell via eBay - http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/McGill-Motorsports__W0QQ_armrsZ1
Other people are singing the praises of Auber Instruments - http://auberins.com/
Your point about the search restriction is taken care of by using this format in Google. Paste all this in the search box - site:lr4x4.com vdo
Include the word 'site'
HTH
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TBH, you are in a better position than us to see the differences.
The special stuff will have been removed, but extra wiring may have been left in place.
On 38A's the second battery and split charge system have been left in.
The alternator may be a higher rating than you would normally expect, but until you look at the label this won't be obvious.
Rather than reprogramming the car ECUs I'd expect any special headlight controls (wig wag / side to side flashing) to have been done by extra units (now removed). Similarly with the ability to leave the engine running and the doors locked. External units giving these functionalities are now easily available.
The other common upgrades drawn from higher spec models would be around brakes and suspension.
Probably not a lot they could do with suspension, but you might have calipers and discs from a top range model IF there is a difference on the LR models.
For the future, if you are going to get techie then get the Manuals for it, don't expect people here to have them.
HTH
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....
For the hot air problem, I was looking for the passenger side temperature blend motor, but it wasn't there, the flap was held on hot permanently by a ty-wrap! Now it's held more to the middle with two ty-wraps
The motor was eventually found lying around under all the ducts and stuff, and didn't rotate when any controls are functioned. As all the other functions appear to work, I intend getting another motor to get it all working again, but as it had already been disconnected - just leaving the plastic blend flap lever - are there any other bits other than a new blend motor that I require? Sorry, it's difficult to describe what I mean, but I'm not sure how the motor actuates the flap arm i.e. are there any metal rods etc. going from the motor to the flap arm or anything?....
Dennis
The blend motor engages directly with the flap, all the leverage gain required is done by gearing within the blend motor housing. The lever you can see, and which I assume is tyrap-ed, is not used when the blend motor is fitted. I don't know whether it is used when Climate Control isn't specified, but that's academic now.
You may know already, but blend motors came new in sets of three, 2 x Blend + 1 x Distribution.
Second hand come as whatever you can get, but they all wire to a single plug. Buying a single motor will probably mean cut wires. Not an unsolvable problem, but there are 5 wires.
The HEVAC ECU will have disabled the existing blend motor, so it won't move unless you take special actions.
If you adjust the passenger heat setting to LO, switch off the engine, then switch it on again, you might see the motor move. If this works it leaves the alternative work round option, which may not be appropriate for you if the half open flap gives what you need. On the other hand, even if you don't connect the motor to the flap, this should get rid of the book symbol IF, repeat IF, this is the only fault the HEVAC is seeing.
The assumption here is that the blend motor has failed because it gave an implausible feedback value when the HEVAC automatic control sent it to full hot. In the UK, and with a vehicle kept outside, this 'send to full hot' happens most times you start the engine after an overnight stand. Setting the temperature to LO overrides the automatic Climate Control, so when you leave the vehicle at the end of the day, set the faulty side to LO, then switch off.
Next morning, leave the faulty side on LO, but perhaps crank up the drivers side a couple of degrees, until you feel a comfortable temperature is reached. Then adjust the passenger side to a low value, say 16 to 18. Because the internal temp sensor records the interior as warm enough the Climate Control won't send the blend flap to full hot.
As the feedback values are only read at Maximum and Minimum (which is almost zero, and thus unlikely to fail), the automatic Climate Control will work for the rest of the day. With the proviso that if the car is left in freezing conditions for 8 hours you may have follow the overnight procedure every time.
As this test is only a button pushing exercise I think it's worth try.
Good Luck.
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Where in the world are you? It might help to identify someone who can eyeball the car and give a second opinion, without it costing you an arm and a leg.
I agree it seems strange that all this should happen coincidentally with changing the battery.
The problem appears to have changed from a security issue to engine not starting, or not running properly once started.
The 'rovercon' is actually a Rovacom, made by a firm called Blackbox Solutions, based in Cyprus. I believe they now advertise in some of the magazines, Land Rover Monthly for instance. The current products are not called Rovacom. You don't want to buy now because it will be a lot of money when you don't actually know what is wrong. You need someone with one of these tools and the associated knowledge and experience, which is where knowing your location becomes useful.
If you want guesses, you could have mode some silly mistake connecting the battery, so double check what you have done, and anything in the local area you may have inadvertently knocked.
Yes, the Fuse box could be corroded, and a knock while you were working pushed it over the line, from just working to just not working.
The Adaptive settings could have reset themselves for some reason, and you need to drive the vehicle until they re-adjust themselves.
The Mass Airflow Sensor has become damaged.
As I say, guesses; but the best one is that you need a more knowledgeable pair of eyes.
HTH
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Thanks Tuko, but I confess that wasn't a typo, it was a lack of knowledge!! I thought they ended in 2002, just after the L322 was introduced.
Like I say, I'm a 38A man really, so my world ends when the L322 starts.
My progression is actually a regression, to a Series 2, a proper Series 2A from the 1960s, not a Disco 2!
Cheers.
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For Information.
While the later RAVE releases do cover the Disco 2 model, for the Workshop and Electrical Manuals (not Parts), the RAVE discs do not extend to 2004. For that model year you need the GTR (Global Technical Resource?), which is a paid for service from Land Rover. You take out a short subscription and download all the files you think you will ever need, including Technical Bulletins and Service Recalls.
Your request is still valid of course. Someone else may have paid to do that in the past, and then feel obliging enough to give you a free copy, but I can't say I've seen many people offering, now or in the past 5 years.
I'm a 38A man myself, so haven't got any relevant Disco 2 stuff.
HTH.
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Probably most of us with natural greying hair.... But how many people here actually use axle stands whilst changing a wheel? ... -
FWIW, I think how easy you find fitting the latch depends on your dexterity, your ability to think in three dimensions, and small hands.
Geoff perhaps scores on all three points - I certainly don't.
On my '95 the original didn't have the extra bracket, and I noted carefully how it came out, because I classed it as 'a bit of a fiddle'. I did try to insert the new one with the extra bracket, but couldn't modify my 'insertion is the reverse of removal' method, so cut the bracket off, when it was 'easy' to replace.
If it's any comfort, I think you are correct to change the latch as soon as it fails. I'm not sure whether I admire or pity those people who take it out, clean lubricate, and re-install. Some even dismantle the thing to mess about with the microswitches. The thing is obviously worn, and after 10 years I don't see that gaining an extra year or so is worth all the messing about. I'd rather do the job once and have done with it.
I don't believe the latch fits any other vehicle; what else from the mid 90's has the lock and superlock facility?
later versions (L322) may have it, but they are a generation on, and I'm sure the latches reflect it.
Give it a couple of refit attempts, just to say you tried, then out with the hacksaw!!
Photo's will be interesting; I find that in such confined quarters that if you get the lens to give you the view you want, the flash can't see the bit you want to illuminate.
Good Luck.
PS. 'preparing for a big trip' - from the Isle of Man that must mean crossing water; rather you than me, this week!
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In standard terms, using the system as designed, it isn't designed to work while the alternator is not working, which of course translates to engine not running.
Get Mechanical / Electrical and you can run the compressor by triggering the relay, but don't forget you also need to switch on two solenoids per spring, the one for the spring itself AND the raise solenoid.
If you have someone with a unit from BlackBox Solutions they can operate the compressor and solenoids via that, otherwise you need to get very familiar with the operation of the EAS, possibly via the RangeRovers.net site. Denis Altman probably has the information you need in the Instruction section of his site.
http://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=27
HTH
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By 'both' do you mean the Master and the Slave?(Given the 38A 6x6, 4.6 + Manual box configuration, then 'anything ' is possible).
I'd suggest the slave cylinder off either a diesel engined manual box, or off a 4.0 manual box. I'd also look to the same sources for a master cylinder. The same master and slave cylinders might fit both.
If you think my Source Identification is feasible, then post in the Parts Number Requests Forum, if no-one picks up the request here. Or ask your Dealer to ignore the VIN, and check the part numbers based on just the model type.
HTH
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Can't guarantee to get it working, but just to nibble at the periphery....
All that is positive news.key / immobilizer seems to work fine, opens and shuts doors, dash does not show disabled and engine cranks but will not start ( if you do "a bad entry" does disable start and show it)I do quibble about the word 'immobilizer'. What you have passed through with the key fob is the vehicle security, contained within the BECM.
At this point I don't think you have got past the BECM to engine ECU handshake, necessary to start the engine.
Good to read you have done some research, but the quote I've extracted contradicts itself. If the EKA reliably gets you in then the door microswitch is OK. When considering 'reliably' note there is plenty of scope for a manual error. In the previous quote you use the phrase "a bad entry", does this mean a bad EKA entry, or perhaps locking the vehicle with the window down, then reaching in and opening the door from the inside? (IE simulating a broken window).on reading a fair few other posts on here, the door lock micro-switch seems to play up, I have put the EKA in and it seems to work,
This isn't my understanding, IF, by 'side repeater flash', you mean the lights fitted in the outside of the wings.but from my reading you should get a confirmation side repeater flash when you turn the key BOTH waysWhat should flash, when the key returns to the vertical after each single clockwise or anticlockwise turn of the key, is the small internal flash indicator - the green double headed arrow between the main dials in the instrument console. To see this you may have to wind the window down, close and lock the door (the volumetric detector will not set itself), then view the indicator light through the open window. Due to the viewing angle you have to adopt to see the indicator from outside it is quite dim. Having the window open removes any degrading due to the (possibly tinted) glass.
I've covered the possible confusion about which light flashes, so ignoring that, you are possibly both correct.you should get a confirmation side repeater flash when you turn the key BOTH ways, Talking to the so called RR specialist on the Island (Ibiza) he was adamant that it was only on the lock position you get a flash,It doesn't matter which way you turn the key, to lock or unlock, the light will flash, but ONLY when the key is returned to the normal position.
Understandable.PS the only guy on the Island with the correct RR fault reading equipment refuses to plug it in due to hearing about smoke behind the dash,
I don't understand (inc k), but in any case you would be wasting your time.I have old OBD reading kit somewhere, (inc k) any use digging it out ?After all that 'nibbling', the bottom line is that I think you have lost synchronisation between the BECM and the Engine ECU. I'm not certain, but with the Diesel I think you have to manually read the code from the Engine ECU and re-input it into the BECM. (With one of the Petrol engine systems I think there is a relearn button, but I can't recall which engine system uses which (Gems Petrol, Bosch Motronic Petrol, Bosch Diesel EDC).
Without access to a Blackbox, Autologic, or Testbook / IDC system, I can only suggest you do some more internet research around Security Codes BMW 38A Diesel. That isn't an exclusive list of search terms.
There may be some people who claim that they have forced a relearn by disconnecting the battery and waiting, or by reconnecting the battery while the ignition switch is in a certain position. (leave the door open when doing this sort of thing, to guard against the vehicle locking you out, with the key inside the car).
There are others on here with more frequent dealings with these machines, and can be more certain than I am about the official method of doing a Security re-learn on the Diesel EDC. (AllyV8, possibly 'CallRova' (Google that, it's an approximation of a Trading Name).
You might be able to remove the BECM and Engine EDC and send them away for re-synchronisation.
HTH, and good luck. If you make the car work do you get to keep it?
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For information, no action required.
There is a supervised repair event taking place today.
I can't be there myself, but couldn't resist looking at the (distant) Stanage Edge Webcam. Looks like a nice day for it; certainly better than the last couple of days.
Live! webcam facing North East towards Millstone Edge. The image is updated every minute and will refresh automatically. If the image is black then it's night here!
http://www.outside.co.uk/knowledge/webcam.html
View location: OS 424725,380440
What you can see on a good day
Regards.
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Slight thread highjack - do you have any more information on this (part no. etc.)? Asked Stratstone LR in Solihull about this after mine was recovered there from outside a hospital and they didn't know anything about it. I don't think they see many N reg Range Rovers...
YWY500170 (433MHz)
There is a Technical Bulletin which covers this, but I don't recall the number.
Edit to say
It is NOT Bulletin 0063, dated 13/11/02, titled 'Battery goes flat overnight', as this relates to an earlier version of the receiver.
Parts numbered ASR1953 and YWY500010 are obsolete.
HTH
Note that I'm only supplying the number, no-one should assume I agree or disagree with the suggestion that this part will 'cure' the problem described.
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Noise from the BW transfer box is normally the worn chain hitting the case. Often called 'slapping' the case, which might signify the type of noise. Alternatively, or perhaps as a Stage 2 if the first noise is ignored, is a loud BANG as the chain jumps a tooth when the engine is delivering high torque. Accelerating from a start is the obvious occasion, but it can also happen going uphill.
I have no personal experience of either of these situations.
Whether these explanations fit the circumstances and type of noise you get is impossible for me to tell, but you can perhaps bear them in mind when assessing the noise in the future.
ISTR there are articles about DIY change of the chain on the RangeRovers.net site, but I don't know if they are in the main site, or the 38A forum. I know yours isn't a 38A, but the wear and symptoms will be shared, and there are more BW equipped 38As than BW equipped Classics.
HTH
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B*****.
Looks like I lost that one!
I have Googled before posting, but clearly not 'correctly'.
Despite all that; Thanks Western :-)
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I've got a Dowty pump attached to a Series gearbox PTO.
The pump has some numbers and letters on the cover containing the Dowty name, but I can't resolve them to throughput etc.
Does anyone here have the Dowty knowledge?
The markings below the Dowty name are 33 77 4. I feel this may be the Serial Number, although I reproduced the spacing here, it may be inadvertent, so perhaps should be seen as 33774.
The markings above the Dowty name are 7702 1P 3060 AF. The spacing and grouping on the end plate appears definite.
The end plate is held on with 4 bolts.
Regards,
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Personal experience, no. Experience of reading about others, yes.
I read that a Fume Curtain is a very worthwhile addition, cutting down the draughts and reducing the volume of cold to be heated.
On the S2 Club Forum there isn't much talk about steering dampers, rather about how light and sensitive the standard S2 steering can be, IF all the swivels, TREs, and the relay, are in good condition.
Personally I suspect staying with standard wheels give a lot to help to good steering, as to go wider on a Series 2 means increasing the offset; otherwise you lose turning circle as the tyre hits the springs.
With the heavier (wider) tyre now offset from the 'correct' position a steering damper may be beneficial, but then if that is what someone wants, why start with an S2?
Not a criticism of your idea, merely an observation.
HTH
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Adding stiffening ribs, of the same (or very similar) material is the best way to go, because they will have similar bend / flex characteristics. Personally I'd be looking to get the sheet material welded to the box.
My concern about a single beam is what happens when the tyre goes off centre? Then you are only using half the beam, the other weight is taken by the folded edge; will it take it, or will the sheet just fold around the side of the beam, dropping the wheel?
You need to be able to rely on the edge of the ramp being able to support the weight, otherwise you are carrying a 12" ramp but saying 'I can only use the centre 8"' (300mm ramp but only using the centre 200mm) :-)
If you put two beams under each ramp the concern is that the ramp folds down the centre, as the wheel runs down the centre.
The ladder idea has cross beams (rungs) to stop this happening!
I'd only put holes in the plate, swaged as suggested. I wouldn't put holes in the beams.
I think a lot depends on how much strength there is in the ramps. Could you conduct a test, say supporting the ramp on two 3" (75mm) blocks at 4' (1220mm) centres and driving onto it? You could put a 2" (50mm) block at the midpoint to stop the ramp flexing beyond it's point of elasticity. There is no point is destroying an asset through carelessness.
Clearly I like the approach "Lets make the best out of what I have"- we are just discussing details and options :-)
HTH
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Hi,
I've got some 38mm and 50mm thick waffle boards here if you want some.
They're 1220mm long and 310mm wide with the heavy grit finish in a few different colours, give me a call if you're interested.
I'll add a post on the for sale board too.
Mark
07525943842
OK, about 48" x 12" x 1.5" or 2".
Just to have some numbers in the discussion, what is the weight of these, in both thicknesses?
Thanks.
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Remember that someone has to get them off the truck, lay them in position,
get them out of the mud(most likely with mud that could easily double the weight)
relocate them on the truck ready for the next obstacle
Larger ones might seem logical to bridge wider/taller obstacles
but not on the weight side of the debate unless you have the hulk as a helper
Where would you mount your large ramps? how much would they weigh.....
Do your back a favor and get some waffle boards, someone on here should be able to recommend
where to get them from.
You make some very good points, BUT, I've never considered waffle boards as light, and certainly not when filled with mud. What thickness do you recommend for bridging? ISTR most people here say 50mm rather than 38mm.
This reinforces my point, trying to use one item for two purposes is a compromise that offers reduced performance.
I don't think a plain waffle is good in sand or soft ground, as it doesn't present sufficient surface area.
If I was starting from scratch, and Tuko could do this as well, IF waffles are available at an economic price in his country, is to go down one thickness in waffle and wrap, fully or on three sides, the waffle in aluminium no thicker than 5mm. This reduces the dry weight, stops the mud being trapped in the waffle, gives a good surface area for soft ground, with the combination giving enough stiffness for bridging.
HTH
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Sand Ladders and Bridging ladders are two different things, having different design criteria. After understanding these you can design a composite unit, but like any compromise, it will never perform each function as well as a single use device.
Possibly better to change the terminology and call them Sand Mats and Bridging ladders, which of course open the design to the treaded rubber mats available.
Sand mats are supported over their whole length, and need to be substantially solid to spread the load over as large an area as possible. The disadvantage of the resulting low ground pressure is that there is little grip between the mat and the ground, thus the holes. While reducing the surface area the multiple edges dig into the sand and give the mat traction.
So, the holes aren't cosmetic.
If you put the term 'ladder' in it's more common usage, to enable a human to climb up a pole, house wall, or tree, etc, then you can see how such a design does not work well if used in sand. The holes are too big, and the surface area of the stiles and rungs is too small.
The same criticism could be leveled against waffles, although they would be better than simple ladders.
In terms of length, two short pieces that can fit between the wheels could always be useful, to give the trailing wheels something to grip, or at least to stop them sinking, but other wise 'as long as possible' will be best. Soft sand (or mud) is rarely only 4 feet long.
'Distance between the wheels'.
In these circumstances I'd say it's best defined by subtracting the tyre diameter from the wheelbase.
Thus 88 - 32 = 56, or 109 - 32 = 77. Inches of course. Anything longer and you could struggle to get one in place after you are stuck.
Bridging Ladders.
You have already highlighted the design criteria re carrying weight.
Length, I think the same critera apply as to sand mats; a short pair, no longer than the maximum length between the wheels, or possibly shorter, to fit in your designated storage space, as you won't always have the space to take a straight run at an obstacle. Another pair as long as you can carry on the vehicle without them getting in the way. These bridge longer gaps with better ramp angles. As there will be more length between the supported points, these longer ladders need to be stiffer than the short ladders.
Next Steps.
Starting from what you have, I'd be looking for an aluminium ladder, possibly second hand will get you commercial strength at a reasonable cost, as opposed to domestic strength, which in the UK at least, are too light (weak).
Lay the ladder 'inside' the ramps. Drill holes through the ramp and plug weld (or blind rivet) the two together along the stiles. Cut holes in the ramp surface as per sand mat design. Plunging the holes seems like a worthwhile exercise.
Use plate down as sand or soft ground mat.
Use plate up as bridging ladder.
The ramps may only be long enough to provide a long pair, but you will have some ladder left over to fold plate around to make a short pair.
HTH
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I'm quite surprised you got it back from the first 'Service' agent; with a starter like that anything else has to be a positive.
I wonder if ARB absorbed the cost (and how much did it cost them), or if they hit Engel for cost of the repair.
"Thought i would share this with you all as we are all guilty of slagging of companies for bad stuff so should congratulate a company when they do great stuff for us"
In that context:
On a similar line (but a lot less money) I've just had my LED AA Maglite 'repaired' for the second time.
The first time they replaced the body (with the light source).
This time they sent me a complete unit, with batteries and holster, just like you'd buy new in a shop.
This unit has some extra modes that the original didn't have:
As well as 100% it has 25%(which is actually OK if you are working close to, like reading a book in a tent, where 100% would blind you).
A fast flash.
A '3 short, 3 long, 3 short' SOS flash mode.
I'm not sure I really need the extras, but as the 100% is brighter than the original, and the other modes don't 'get in the way' of normal use, I'm quite happy.
All for free, of course, with the Lifetime Warranty.
Regards.
PS.
Best wishes for the safe arrival of a maintenance crew to go with the Winch Bitch (in training).
The motor was eventually found lying around under all the ducts and stuff, and didn't rotate when any controls are functioned. As all the other functions appear to work, I intend getting another motor to get it all working again, but as it had already been disconnected - just leaving the plastic blend flap lever - are there any other bits other than a new blend motor that I require? Sorry, it's difficult to describe what I mean, but I'm not sure how the motor actuates the flap arm i.e. are there any metal rods etc. going from the motor to the flap arm or anything?
Non start P38 after fitting new battery
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
I missed this post when it first came in.
When we say fuse box we are talking about corrosion in the fusebox mounted in the engine bay.
I've never had the problem in mine, but from what I've read from others, the damage may be difficult to spot from on top, just by pulling the odd fuse or relay.
Rather, disconnect the battery, undo the mounting bolt, and tip the box towards the engine, so you can see underneath. Wriggle off a few of the connectors - they are colour coded - so you can see more.
Note that there are some unprotected studs under there. If you lift the box without disconnecting the battery, when you replace the box you catch one of these studs on the painted but sharp edged brackets that position the box. Phhhht, there goes one of the expensive Main Fuses.
You will probably see more about fusebox corrosion and repair on the main RangeRovers.net site, with pictures.
HTH.