David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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I don't know what engine you are running, or how the heater matrix is plumbed in, but one difference between vehicles of the Series era and now is that in the Series the heater was optional, and therefore a bypass route was built into the coolant circuit so that flow could be maintained when the thermostat was shut. This bypass flow still exists even when the thermostat opens, and is in parallel with the heater matrix, robbing the matrix of heated coolant.
What I do in these circumstances, although not yet with a Series Land Rover, is to block off the bypass route, remove any flow control tap in the heater matrix circuit, therefore using the heater as the 'always open' bypass circuit.
Heater output is now goverened by the amount of air flowing through the matrix.
This design now mirrors what is in your wifes' Trooper.
Now you have some heat in the matrix any work you do on the air flow will be more effective.
Good Luck.
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Uh, no, I can't test this theory. If I remove the bulb, how will I know it's functioning properly? I better find the damn resistor.
Yes you can. Use a voltmeter instead of watching the bulb.
Change nothing, put your meter across the battery.
Start the engine WITHOUT revving it.
Check if the bulb is still on, write down both this fact and the voltage.
Raise the engine speed, try to note the rpm when the bulb goes OFF, write down both 'bulb off' and the higher voltage.
Switch off the engine
Now remove the bulb.
Start the engine WITHOUT revving it.
Write down 'bulb out' and the voltage.
Raise the engine speed, try to note the rpm when the voltage rises, write down both this fact and the higher voltage.
You can also do a static check (engine not running, ignition switched off, battery still connected).
Remove the bulb and do a resistance check across the terminals in the bulb holder.
Note that you should NOT do this test with the ignition switched on, unless you disconnect the battery.
HTH
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Someone on the Series 2 Club forum used a ground down hacksaw blade, picking at the space between relay and tube. ISTR he put 'teeth' on the end of the blade. I think he worked from underneath.
What end result are you heading for, a rebuild?
I believe people have done it in situ, but not me.
If I find a relevant thread I'll post again.
Good Luck.
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I haven't seen this months LRM, but based solely on 'the way you tell it', I find it nice to know that there still exist people brave enough to have a pop at the 'sacred cows' of the Land Rover world.
I think you are correct to point out that people seem to have short memories when it comes to recalling the loss experienced by the Mother and Siblings of those children killed in the Nigel Gresham incident.
That the same sort of thing 'can never happen to them' seems to be to widely accepted by these sacred cows.
I wish I still had your enthusiasm to tackle the situation myself. I no longer do, but I will cheer you on.
Good Luck.
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You might be interested in these two threads, especially as I read in another thread that you are investing in a second set of wheels for Green Lane work.
Who goes offroad with his P38 in UK? http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32357
RHD Steering Box Location and Southdown Steering Guard http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32217
I've no thoughts of investing in one of these guards, but that's more a reflection of my vehicle usage than a comment on the guards.
Cheers.
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Thanks for that I need all the help I can get, Im on an island in the north sea, some distance from serious equipment but with quite a lot of experiance.
The result from a bosch reader was 144 which to be honest makes no sense to me, I understand the fourth injector relates to start of injection but think there is a valve in the FIP which alters the timing, acording to the reader the timing is "all over the place"
Thanks for you time on this one without which by now I would have thrashed it with a tree branch !!
What might be the cause is the 'Injection Timing Device', RAVE Workshop Manual Section 19 page 8.
This is a guess, just trying to marry up the fault description to the named parts and function.
Does make me wonder whether running a good dose of Millers Diesel Clean through the system would help. I assume the fuel filter has been changed, and the water trap drained. Millers Diesel Clean might be called Power Plus nowadays.
Good Luck.
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Are you sure you mean the start of injection sensor? Look at RAVE Workshop Manual section 19. The start of injection sensor is part of Injector 4, the one that cannot be overhauled.
There is nothing 'start of injection' that I can see in the pump.
I have put a more comprehensive response in your 'Fault Code 144' topic.
HTH
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This guy might be able to 'translate' the 144 error code. Phone him when you have time for a chat.
Most of what is below is from a post I contributed to another forum in July 2008.
www.remmington.plus.com/ carries some very useful information within it, and Peter Remmington (note 2 M's) is a very helpful guy.
Otherwise known as King's Lynn Auto Diagnostics.
They will do a postal Test & Calibration service, to which you have to add the local cost of removing & replacing the pump.
http://fp.remmington.plus.com/edc%20diesel%20pump.htm
Included with detail on other testing procedures is the same table as on the BBA site, I don't know who had it first.
http://fp.remmington.plus.com/testproceed.html
As a side note, http://fp.remmington.plus.com/rederv.htm is an interesting read, covering Red diesel and Vegetable oil diesel.
TT Automotive is considered a good source of Bosch parts at competitive prices, but ignore the website reference, their receptionist says "we don't have a web site at the moment". They also have a workshop. Recommended.
www.applegate.co.uk/company/10/38/215.htm
Further reading, especially if you want to understand the innards of the FIP.
The VE pump Technical Manual, all 60 plus pages.
www.htsuk.plus.com/BOSCH_VE_PUMPS.pdf
If you are not already intimately familiar with the VE pump, look at the sections explaining the mechanical control elements BEFORE reading the electronics section.
BBA Remanufacturing say "Actuator commonly failing on the Bosch EDC diesel pump range, below is a comprehensive table for fault diagnosis. BBA now test and rebuild.
(Table at www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=common_rail_diesel_technology I know it's in the Common Rail section, that's a BBA error).
www.bba-reman.com is the main page.
Range Rover is listed under LandRover
Look at the tabs across the top, they list 'Good Garages'. I haven't tried any garages listed in this list.
HTH
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Or you have a stripped drive member. This is the bit visible in the centre of the wheel. It bolts to the hub with the 5 or 6 hex headed screws you can see. The centre is splined to fit the end of the halfshaft. It thus transmits the drive from the half shaft to the hub, to which the wheel is fixed with the normal wheel nuts.
You will be sponsoring his membership of the Series 2 Club then? Where he can ask his own questions on the Forum, research in the Tech Library, read what others get up to, and get his very own glossy magazine!!
Cheers.
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" ... the early P38 is really just a pile of poo in disguise."
Yes, it's an old car, the electronics date from the early 1990s, so 15 / 20 years ago.
Other sources of information.
RangeRovers.net run a Diagnostic Systems forum. The boss of Blackbox Solutions posts in there, but it isn't his exclusive play pen. Of course, the main thrust is the American Market, so not Diesels, but there are posters from Mainland Europe, so it is valid to ask the question, just as you have here. Others have, so their threads might be worth skimming through before posting. OTOH, if 'your' tester hasn't been mentioned before you have a good excuse for asking the question again.
It's a Bosch diesel system, so think Diesel Specialist rather than Land Rover. I can recommend two, one in Kings Lynn, the other in Loughborough, but while I don't know where you are, I suspect neither of those help you.
Bosch do a 'green box' tester that plugs into the OBD2 socket. I've seen it used, but haven't been hands on.
I don't know how available this is on the second hand market.
Good Luck.
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I read the original post differently to Chris.
Dan has successfully changed 1 UJ, (at the T Case end of the shaft). He is now trying to change the other UJ (at the differential end of the shaft). He has removed the circlips, but his 'standard' removal method, using the various sockets and vice also shown, cannot move any of the bearing cups.
Should he use the hammer, also shown in the picture?
My observation is that the yokes are not physically damaged, nor excessively rusty, so there is nothing in the way of the cup leaving the yoke. So it must be just tight.
The maximum pressure given by the vice is limited, the thread is too coarse, so yes, it needs help.
A little heat on the yoke would help. That is, not red hot, but too hot to hold in a bare hand.
The hammer shown is a little too light, it requires too much muscle from the operator. More strength means less accuracy, increasing the risk of an accident. Better to use a heavier hammer.
Or you use a press, which I guess you don't have, but perhaps a friend or local workshop does have.
HTH
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If I wanted to keep this simple I'd say you have more chance winning the UK Lottery (irrespective of whether you buy a ticket or not) than finding a Generic OBD2 Tool that will perform with a '95 Diesel 38A. And I'll include the '96 in that as well, just so you don't feel left out!
Oh, also ignore CAN references. I think it was in '99-on vehicles that LR introduced CAN for chatter betwwen the auto gearbox and the engine. I'm pretty sure it was petrol engined vehicles only, but anyone who cares can read it up for themselves in RAVE, now you have those clues.
For every reader, NOT specific to any individual.
Justify that damning first statement!
Ok, RAVE has an interesting section all about the E-OBD (European On Board Diagnostics). After you have selected Range Rover, select Technical Documentation, then EOBD. Start at the Introduction and`read on. It seems quite dense, but remember this is written for Land Rover Mechanics. If you have ever questioned their competance or aptitude you clearly think you can do the job, so you should be able to follow the contents of the EOBD section.
An early sentance is "The OBDII standards have now been adopted by the European community and developed for the European automotive sector for compulsory implementation in 2000MY."
Note the year.
Later on we read "It was recognised that OBD for diesel engined vehicles was at a less developed stage and could not be fitted to all diesel vehicles until 2005."
On page 15 we get to "E-OBD requirements for vehicles with compression-ignition engines", followed by "E-OBD requirements for MIL activation" and "OBD requirements for fault code storage", etc, etc.
Bottom Line, OBD and EOBD were created to meet Legislation, not because Manufacturers thought it was a fun thing to do. In 1995 the Diesel legislation did not apply, so the manufacturers weren't forced to pay much attention. Obviously it became cost effective to make vehicles similar across the range, and an OBD socket was a useful point by which to interrogate all the systems on the car, instead of separate leads for each system, which is what the Classic had.
However, don't mix up the requirements of OBD, which seem to be exclusively Engine based, and whole vehicle diagnostics, which is really what most 38A owners are interested in.
If any reader wants an 'across the board' view on different Code readers etc I suggest they spend sometime on the Car Mechanics Web Forum. That's the Car Mechanics magazine. There are a lot of small independent motor traders on there who between them have tried all sorts of Code Readers. By now you may even find some people who have tried them on 38A's, although mainly they work on more bread and butter vehicles. I should add the rider that it's been 12 months or more since I visited the site, so there may be more 38A experience than I give them credit for.
HTH
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The Military men can comment more exactly on the fitting for your crossmember, but I'll just say 'watch your hitch heights'.
If you put the 50mm ball at the correct height for your boat trailer you might be able to leave the NATO hitch on, but it will more than likely obstruct you putting the boat trailer hitch on the 50mm ball.
I think you will find it's one or the other, not both.
An alternative is to start paying more money for a Dixon Bate adjustable hitch, with two 'sliding' plates, one for each hitch. It's still 'one at a time', but they are easier to change over (and pinch, so never leave one on the base unit while the vehicle is unattended).
HTH
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Link should read http://www.landroverofthenewark.co.uk/
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Are the mounts already there for them and properly reinforced?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JATE-RECOVERY-RING-T...emZ110395842096
Is it just me or dont they look particularly flimsy?
No, it isn't just you; they look very flimsy to me as well.
Of course, someone will pop up shortly to quite correctly say you should use forged Jate rings in preference to fabricated versions.
BUT, having seen videos of some of Streaky's recovery operations, from deep sand, I would go for his suggested fabrication every time, spreading the chassis load over several attachment points, AND having an attachment point that is easier to access with less (or no) digging, mud or sand, than a well buried Jate ring.
But I'm not an Expert! Good Luck.
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You are talking about two different elements of the swivel pin assembly.
The part FRC2906 is a thrust washer, made out of a material called Paxolin, which is the same as, or very similar to, the material the Railko bush is made from.
The thrust washer sits in the bottom of the bush, and the base of the upper swivel pin bears down on it. It is the pressure of the pin on this washer which creates the preload. If the washer was missing entirely, or very badly worn, there would be no pressure and the whole swivel housing would rise and fall, with oil leaking out of the lower swivel bearing.
Assuming the washer exists, the pressure is adjusted by adding or removing steel shims that fit between the flat top of the upper swivel pin and the swivel housing.
It is this shim pack which Reb 'adjusted', by removing a shim, which removed the free play he had found.
110 USA, if your thrust washer is worn, then making a similar adjustment may cure the wobble.
BUT, wobble suggests a side to side movement, probably caused by wear between the side of the upper swivel pin and the hole in the Railko bush. Adjusting the preload by adjusting the thickness of the shim pack will make no difference to this wear. The only cure is a new pin and a new bush.
Adjusting the preload by removing one or more shims is 'easy'; changing the Railko bush is considerably more involved.
Hope this clarifies the issue.
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Ha ha ha, sorry, that takes me back to virtually the first query I ever answered ... memories eh!
Switch the wiper on, then press the tailgate unlock button, you may perhaps have to lift the glass an inch, before lowering it gently. I guess it depends on the springiness of the rubber seal.
Timing is everything, of course, to ensure you stop the sweep when the arm is vertical.
Cheers
Just found the text in the Owners manual (The '99 version is part of the RAVE CD compilation)
REAR WIPER BLADE REPLACEMENT
The rear wiper arm is inaccessible in its stowed position (under a cover at the top of the tailgate).
To change the wiper blade, it is necessary to stop the wiper arm during its travel as follows:
Set the rear screen wiper operating, then open the upper tailgate when the wiper is in a near-vertical position. The wiper will stop as soon as the tailgate is opened.
Turn the starter switch to the ’0’ position to prevent the wiper from operating, lower the upper tailgate and then replace the wiper blade (as described for front wiper blade overleaf). The wiper will continue operating as soon as the starter switch is returned to position ’I’.
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The Americans have tried a similar approach, as new balls are noticably more expensive for them. If I recall correctly, one method was to grit blast all the chrome and rust off, apply epoxy adhesive to all the pits, sand smooth, then coat in POR 15, sanding down as required. The POR15 was used because (I understand) it is hard when dry.
So I'd say there is a precedent. Clearly you have to have the patience to sand the pits level, before or after the first coating. Using your coating to fill the pits may mean that you end up sanding most of the first coat away. But as you have the facility to apply multiple coats that doesn't seem much of a problem.
Damage to the chrome.
The suggestion is sometimes made that this is due to stone chips. I'm not 100% convinced, as if it's impact damage that starts the rot, how does the rear of the ball get damaged? Inspection will show that the rear of the ball can and does rust as easily as the front.
Note that some replacement balls have a black Teflon coating, looked on with suspicion by almost everybody just because it's different. The same people will also rubbish the quality of the chrome on modern replacements.
Shrug, there is an element of a gamble which ever way you jump, so you may as well do your own thing, and be master of your own destiny.
Good luck.
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'Rather Pleased' is good, long may it continue :-)
A '95 DT is what I run, no Cruise Control, Traction Control, or Electric Seats, but definately Air Con. My choice, then and now, is that I wouldn't buy without that, but that's just a personal choice.
Just to clarify, is the Heating and Ventilation control via manual knobs, rather than automated with a small display screen in the centre console?
As you are probably aware, SRS (airbag) faults rarely reset themselves. They generally need diagnostic kit.
Cheers.
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Out of interest does any one know the sustained EGT limit for the 300TDI engine?
Ha, now there's a can of worms :-)
No, I don't know, but what you might get is a lot of figures bandied about that are actually people repeating what they are told, without knowing the validity of the original comment.
Working in this area, you recognise the value of a reliable figure, as opposed to a guesstimate.
I suspect that the best you can hope for is people reporting what they have seen for sustained or at least significant amounts of time, with the engine surviving for a few thousand miles afterwards
For instance, with the BMW 2.5 turbocharged straight 6 I've seen a flash reading of the high 900s Centigrade while climbing Shap Fell, four up at sustained full throttle. IE it took time and opportunity to get numbers above 950, and they lasted for less than a minute. That was a few years ago, and similar circumstances have never occurred again.
Cruising will be 400 ish, 600 is not uncommon, and I can get 800 without too much trouble, but I rarely push hard enough for long enough to say more than 600 is sustained for a significant period of time.
On the other hand, the engine is still in one piece.
The other point to be aware of is where the temperature is measured. Is the sensor probe wiped by exhaust gas from each cylinder, or just one cylinder? The difference is obvious to you, and with a bit of luck it isn't an issue, as most automotive TC diesels seem to have EGTs measured at the entry port of the Turbo, so the sensor gets wiped by gas flow from every cylinder. My thermocouple is certainly at the manifold to Turbocharger connection, so sees all 6 slugs of exhaust gas.
Bottom line of course is that my experiences are with the 'wrong' engine, and I certainly wouldn't transfer across my experiences to the 300TDi.
Good Luck.
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Bottom Line, you need a recommended local specialist who doesn't regard 38As as the devils spawn, with the owner as someone whose wallet is ripe for the picking. Just because someone is 'Land Rover' doesn't mean they like working on 38As. Approach your search with those points in mind and you will be more likely to have success.
I can't help with knowledge local to your area.
On these models the actuator or Throttle Position Switch is a substantial bit of kit that exudes quality. BMW branded IIRC.
It sits just above the pedal, so is not subject to the heat and vibration of the engine bay. These factors make it as different as it's possible to be, while sharing the same name, as the TPS on the V8 petrol engine.
With an analogue meter it can be tested for smooth and uninterrupted output.
A bit expensive to change on a whim.
When the engine dies to tickover, and won't respond, is this at speed (say 50 to 80 mph) or is it as you slow down to a roundabout, traffic lights, or other junction? Do you see the Engine light come on, if only for half a second? Depending on year, this is either a pictogram of an injector spaying fuel, or a sideways viewed outline of an engine block.
I'd say the glow plug issue is separate to the 'dies to tickover' issue. The engine ECU is thinking the coolant is warm, so it's not switching the plug timer on. While an ECU problem is not impossible, the ECU may be responding correctly to the input it's seeing from the temperature sensor. IE, it's a sensor or wiring fault, not an ECU fault. There are two sensors in the cylinder head, one reports coolant temperature to the engine ECU, the other reports to the BECM for the engine temperature gauge.
I don't recall, without checking, exactly which is which. It's been a while since I changed one of them in my car. I know which one I changed, but can't recall why :-)
Any other problems with the car, which might not be related, but give a sense of vehicle history?
Year of manufacture? Manual or Automatic gearbox?
Ignoring my initial comment, are you inclined to have a go yourself? That isn't a stupid move, but it could be an uphill climb, steep at times, and you may have to pay money for your training, by replacing parts that don't cure the problem.
Whether you DIY, or want more knowledge when talking to your specialist, you need the RAVE CD, which contains both the Electrical and the Mechanical manuals.
Google 'Green Oval, manual' and download for free the CD Image. You or someone you know, will have to convert that Image File to a working CD, which I suggest you copy complete into a new folder on your Hard Drive, then create a short cut to the file RAVE.EXE in the Folder you just created.
If you are to benefit from this work there is some time to be spent reading and familiarising yourself with the contents of RAVE.
If you don't have the time or inclination to get immersed in the car then follow my first advice, or sell it as is, while the faults are intermittent and you have the possibility of selling a vehicle that works at the time of sale (and may your sleep be continually interrupted by sudden cramps :-)).
Cheers.
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... What tyres do most people run for laning? I've always tended to keep separate sets of tyres for laning/off roading and road use, and that seems like a smart idea on the P38 (especially as it has 18" alloys which don't strike me as idea for laning).
General Grabber AT2 style is a style that seems to get positive reports.
Available in 255/55 x 18 and 235/70 x 16
http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/category/W...ox2/4__AT2.html or http://www.4x4tyres.com
This style of tread will harm your fuel consumption when used on tarmac, I found by about 2 mpg.
I was never so keen as to change wheels and tyres for laning / tarmac.
I don't necessarily endorse your opinion of 18" wheels as being 'unsuitable' for laning. Having started on 18" wheels I found I preferred 16" for tarmac use, so the question of better / worse for laning was academic. The little I did gave no particular cause for concern.
Obviously I 'recognise' the significance of your membership number on this forum, but I still think that you will get better support on the Rangerovers.net 38A forum. Search on this forum should not be ignored.
Regarding your search for 38A underbody protection, how many thousands did you want to spend?
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31148 is a relevant post, both by date and content, although note the writer is in France. From the pictures I'm not convinced he has had a RHD version made.
The video in this link shows what can be attempted and achieved without making a tank to beat the ground into submission.
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32171 Note how chunky the tyre tread is, or isn't, and note how much difficulty the 'pedestrian' had in keeping his footing.
In terms of being 'fully prepared' before venturing out of the driveway, the next one is relevant. A good technical exercise, and useful to watch, but is it essential for UK laning?
Just in case it applies, don't be put off by his avatar. The American writer was amused by the term Chav. When he understood what it meant he went out and found what he took to be a suitable picture
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30443
The next two revert to 'our man in France' and his concerns about the oil cooler for the auto gearbox, when a diesel engine is used.
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32060 and
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32072
HTH
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... one question is tho am i right in thinking that pressure is at constant pressure acting on all of the inlet manifold ...
Yes.
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The seller told me to give it a bit of accelerator as I started it - I deliberately didn't and it turned over happily enough but didn't start. As soon as I depressed the pedal it started. Is this normal for these engines or a sign of excessive wear/head gasket issues/glow plugs? It did have 130k on the clock. I didn't think it was idling particularly smoothly either.
I don't think it is normal for these engines - I don't see the query regularly described on forums.
From other experiences with this engine I'd say it indicates wear in the high pressure injection pump.
As a straight six it should idle smoothly, the six cylinders self dampen the vibrations inherent in having pistons shooting up and down the bores. Note this is a characteristic of the configuration, and as such applies to a lot of straight 6 engines.
Taking both the issues together (not starting without throttle and un-smooth idling) I suggest the idle speed is too low.
The normal way of adjusting this is via a diagnostic electronic tool talking to the BMW engine electronics.
The abnormal way is by wrecking the security screw on the pump and mechanically moving the top box on the pump. I found this 'facility' while curing another problem, and I don't recommend this method as it's a long way from being exact; there is no adjusting screw, the result depends entirely where the box sits as you tighten the 4 screws that secure the box.
I suppose the throttle pot or it's adjusting linkage could be worn, giving an incorrect pot value to the ECU, but I don't place much value on this possibility.
Poor warm / hot starting IS often described on forums, and I think that is what Scube is referring to. As he says, it isn't always cured.
Poor idling on its own could be injectors requiring a service / replacement. 5 of the 6 can be overhauled, but number 5, with the start of injection sensor, can only be replaced.
I have no experience of head gasket failure with this engine, so I would be looking for other signs, like excessive steam from the exhaust, or mayonnaise in the cam cover.
HTH
Canvas care- cleaning and proofing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I would steer very well clear of washing up liquid. ISTR they have the property of weakening the surface tension of water to help with the cleaning. Any residue left in the canvas would tend to make leaks more likely.
I don't have any specific products to mention, but I'd look for a products sold to clean tents or marquees.
You may get pointed to a combined cleaner & proofer.