David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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Ah ha, "doing this on my phone in Tesco." That explains the '3 for the price of 1' approach to posting :-)
Good Luck with the real problem!
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You either buy an alternator with a W terminal, create one on the alternator you have, or have someone else do it for you.
W stands for Winding, actually one of the three windings that form the stator (the fixed or stationary winding in the case of the alternator).
It varies from make to make, but basically you take the cover off the alternator, and look for three single wires coming from the stator to the diode pack. Pick any one of those wires and solder a new wire to the point where the existing wire joins the diode pack. The new wire leads to your W terminal, terminate it on a 2BA or 5mm bolt which becomes your W terminal. Make sure the bolt or the internal wire doesn't touch the alternator case, or get trapped, when the cover is replaced. Typically you put the bolt through the plastic cover.
You can of course use any method of connecting your new wire to the wiring loom leading to the tachometer. One single 'chocolate block' screw terminal, or a male / female lucar, whatever takes your fancy.
HTH
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USB 'and' Bluetooth - Why Both?
A friend has a car with a shielding windscreen, so he put a Bluetooth one inside the fibreglass rear tailgate. It is wired into the car power supply, and works without any problem, both seeing the Satellites and conversing with the PC in the front.
I bought a Bluetooth one because I was going to use it in cars belonging to other people, and I thought it better not to have 'another' plug and lead sticking out of the laptop, as I have to quickly 'store' the laptop down the side of the seat when I get out to open gates etc.
The battery powered aspect meant I was also getting away from another power lead floating around the car.
In practice it's a bit of a pain, because I always have to remember to charge it up before going out.
Also, in my experience, the Bluetooth connection always takes a bit of time to sync into Memory Map or the PC, and we can be three or more miles down the road before everything is talking to one another.
A fellow Green Lane driver, in his own vehicle, uses a GPS Mouse from the Memory Map people, but of course that's more of a fixed installation, whereas mine is temporary.
In principle I've made the decision to buy a Mouse style GPS Receiver, certainly for my own car, I just haven't made the purchase!!
Mine is more than 12 months old, I did post at the time about the confusion possible between the cheaper HOLOX and the more expensive HOLUX, but I expect models have advanced since then, so I'm not going to be specific.
HTH
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Struggling a little bit with this one.
Western,
I've looked at my car and cannot see anything I'd recognise as a label part number on that sticker.
As this label also contains the Body Colour and Trim Code, all printed, it's possible these labels are 'unique', printed completely as the vehicle passes on the production line.
I saw such a scheme in progress when I visited a Ford factory; ISTR there it was the VIN that was stamped in metal by a 'man in a hut', physically separate from anyone else.
However, just in case blank labels are available, I've taken down part numbers of adjacent labels, hoping that if you can find one you will find the one we want.
On the same panel, split NS and OS:
AWR 1375
BTR 8822
PRC 8125
Inside the Fusebox lid, although this may be a combined 'Lid & Label'.
AMR 3377
Cheers.
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"...do I always have to keep the curled metal part with me in the car at all times? "
Well I suppose it might be a reminder of your mortality (smile), but I think a sticker can only be considered a convenience.
The numbder is repeated on a metal strip, positioned to be viewable through the bottom LH corner of the windscreen.
LH designated as though one is standing at the rear of the car, looking forward.
I'm sure the sticker will have a part number, either on it's own, or as part of a set.
I suggest posting a Part Number request in the specific section of the Forum - it will take Western (or whoever) into a section of Microcat that is not normally visited :-)
I don't have access to Microcat at the moment, but I have in the past, which is why I feel confident that the sticker has a part number. This might be on the face of the sticker anyway.
HTH
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.... can anyone please tell me where you can buy these kits? .... I can't find anyone who sells heated mirror kits for Defenders.
There's a guy from Poland been selling kits on eBay for some time. I recall reading positive comments about his stuff, but I can't recall which Forum.
HTH
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'Obvious things to look for' are a compressor that runs but has a worn out piston seal, so doesn't move enough air.
It's worn out through trying to maintain pressure in bags that are cracked, and thus leak (and are worse in cold weather).
As a very temporary recovery you might get the bags to re-inflate if you lift the chassis off the axle until it's in the 'HI' position, then switch on the ignition / pump. If you do get it up, always leave the car parked in the HI position, as there will be less cracks open with the bags extended.
A slightly longer temporary fix is to just change the seal on the compressor, but it will soon wear out again, so if you go this route, buy two seals, so you can put the second new one in when you change the bags. The gamble here is that the compressor bore may be scored, in which case you need the full overhaul kit of crank, piston, cylinder liner, and seal.
There is probably someone selling these on ebay, based in the UK or Holland.
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Unfortunately it is not (I have the RAVE CD). It is missing the electrical diagram.
Then I think you have been conned, or you are mistaken.
All proper RAVE CDs have the electrical diagrams.
For the 38A the Workshop Manual has an Electrical section that has some very interesting words, but no diagrams.
The diagrams are in the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual). This is within the 38A section.
Regards,
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No doubt the rubber bands are cut from cross sections of old inner tubes (from cars or lorries) or bicycle inner tubes, of varying wheel diameters, doubled or tripled (one tube wrapped round two or three times, not two or three tubes per ratchet!).
Somehow I don't think the alternative, of ex Post Office red elastic bands, will be quite up to the job. Pity, as they do seem easily available :-)
Cheers.
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Try reading this thread for comments on new eBay heaters. Small, Medium, and the new Large.
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Unfortunately, it's probably Nerked
Pinched from a GLASS posting (by someone else). Notice how the informed local comment puts a different perspective on the situation.
...............................
The Asda van isn't the first to follow the SatNav down here but actually this isn't really a footpath, it is an old road (Hardsough Lane) shown on the Definitive Map as a footpath but is almost certainly a carriageway that has been NERC'd (lost its motor vehicle rights under the Natural Environment and Rural Communities Act 2006). It would be easily driveable in a 4x4
It shows how silly the anit-4x4 legislation is - how would an ordinary member of the public be expected to know that it was illegal - on the other hand it shows how silly some drivers can be - whatever its status he should have seen he couldn't get through a gap narrower than his van, especially on a washed out surface.
Actually the recovery truck did more damage to the lane than the Asda van did.
.................................
Cheers.
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Ahhh. Ta for the pointer. I'm guessing the damaged bit will be between the door pillar and the actual door inside the rubber conduit/trunking??
Not in my experience.
The wire feeding the earth from the door switch is a separate wire that 'floats' in mid air below the latch, before it joins the loom towards the bottom of the door. It can be caught by the window on it's way down, especially if someone has been in the door to lubricate / change the latch or window regulator and disturbed the wiring. The window motor has the power to snap the wire without pausing for thought; there is a slight bang but it certainly doesn't stall.
The other 'popular' damage point is corrosion in the multi connector in the lower half of the A pillar. To access either remove the side trim in the footwell, or pull off the rubber conduit from the A pillar and lift the connector into view. The trap here is to separate the connector then accidentally drop one end back into the pillar, where it remains strangely inaccessible.
If you need to prove the fault forwards or backwards, fold the rear seat fully forwards and lift the carpet (easier said than done) to expose the wiring on the floor immediately behind where the RH rear seat normally sits. Apply an earth to the correct wire, and assuming fuse 15 is live, the button will be effective.
You really need the ETM for this.
HTH
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Are you telling us the solenoid operates, but doesn't unlock the upper tailgate?
You don't really explain the problem, or what faults you are discounting as 'not that', nor why you are discounting them.
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You don't have a '90 RR P38', as the P38a wasn't released until very late in 1994 (in the UK).
Which engine?
You say there is no overheating, but have you actually checked the coolant level in the expansion tank? Air in the heating matrix does limit the heating.
There is no such thing as a 'blend heater pump'.
In the 38A there are flaps which control the quantity of heated and unheated air that gets blended together, and thus the temperature. These flaps are controlled by blend motors, which are a known failure point, but when these fail you normally get a book and exclamation mark symbol on the screen of the heater control unit.
If you do have a 38A, with no warnings in the heater display, and a full cooling system, the problem could be the heater thermostat clipped to one of the pipes leading to the heater matrix. The clips do fail occasionally and the thermostat falls off. In this circumstance the heater control unit does know the coolant is hot, so doesn't draw a lot of heat from the matrix, as it thinks the engine is still warming up.
Are there any other problems you know about but haven't mentioned?
How long have you had the vehicle?
If you have a 38A and want to pinpoint what facilities do and don't work, follow the procedure in this article:
http://www.rangie.com/articles/71/1588
HTH
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I thought the name 'Wolf Boxes' sounded familiar. In my notes, as well as Footloose I have Gigglepin as a stockist, although I can't see them mentioned on their website http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/parts/parts.htm
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From another Forum I got the response "30" x 40" was a very common drawing size in the 1960s and early '70s."
That validates my 30x39 'estimate by eyeball', and as it fits inside the 33x47 A0 template it clears the way for me to print Actual Size onto A0 and just trim the excess white space, if I need to.
Thanks for your responses, I think we can consider this thread as complete.
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Did you see the other link on the same page?
Although it's uncomfortable reading, I think the article helps build a more comprehensive picture of the circumstances.
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I've come across an online Engineering Drawing (~3MB JPG), displaying a Land Rover, naturally, which indicates the Material Size is 'N', with the contents dated 1961, at 1:8 scale.
Using the 60" width of the rear cross-member as a scale rule, the paper would have measured about 30" X 39".
The nearest modern paper sizes are A0 at about 33 x 47 inches, or ANSI E at 34 x 44 inches.
There is a Wikipedia page that mentions ANSI size N, implying it was used for Engineering drawings, but also implying it might be very large, used for 1:1 scale drawings. Also, ANSI is an American standard, so I suspect not in use in 1960s UK.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_size scroll down to the ANSI section.
Does anyone know of a Size N used in UK Engineering Drawing in the 1960s?
Thanks.
Oh, if your curiosity has been whetted - http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/AcrobatFiles/109CoachbuildersDrawingLARGE.jpg
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I wrote to Fascinating Finishes (ebay name), Kingstonian Paints in the real world, asking the same question.
They took the question seriously, consulted amongst themselves, and came back with two alternatives.
The cheapest has a bit of Bitumen in it, so is OK if it's out of sight, or never going to be painted over (chassis black excepted) as the bitumen will bleed through eventually.
The slightly more expensive has no bitumen and can be painted over.
No user review as buying some is still on my 'to do' list.
Cheaper Sold as Fish Pond Paint Water Proof Ornamental Garden Ponds. 290151377562
Less cheap Sold as Swimming Pool Paint Water Proof Garden Fish Pond Pools. 290151365703
Ebay Shop site http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Fascinating-Finishes-Ltd__W0QQ_armrsZ1
Don't panic over the price difference, it's just that of the two items I've hit, one is 750ml, the other is 2.5L.
I think they do sell them both in 750ml size, I just didn't find them.
HTH
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Hi guys thanks for both your replies.
Sheltie, about the glow plugs, they were changed about 18 months ago, the engine always starts (started) on the first turn as soon as the heater indication on the dash goes out?
Yes, that's what should happen.
Ps. when the tank pump failed, a local mechanic put a check valve on the fuel line after the filter, I didnt know any better and it did work?The check valve trick is normal, although I think they normally get fitted between the filter and the tank, near the filter. That's where mine is, fitted during the first three years of the cars life.
David, I take your point about manuals, ( and consider myself well told off ;o) I already have the Range Rover workshop manual. Its ok for instruction, but there is no troubleshooting/ diagnosis stuff in it at all?Came across a bit strong did I? Oh well, there was just plenty of opportunities presented :-)
I tried to download the Rave manual but it seemed like a huge file and my computer gave up?Yes it is a big file, although I think it asks more of the download speed allowed by your ISP / local line than of the PC itself.
In a similar exchange I had recently the other party said he wasn't to hot on converting Image files etc, but his 15 year old son said he'd do it in 10 minutes.
I suppose stuff I was looking for was, I rigged up a temp fuel supply to the fuel line on the engine side of the filter/heater. Engine didn't start, then I wondered what pressure would the fuel normally be at, at this stage? Any hints/tips on testing any of the vital components without simply replacing them?The ETM has more explanatory text about the elements of the fuel management system than the Workshop Manual.
No, I don't know what pressure the in-tank pump produces, the normal test is how much fuel it flows.
From a Technical Bulletin (from the RAVE disc)
5. Remove fuse box lid and remove relay R12.
6. Connect an electrical feed from the battery to terminal 5 of relay R12 housing for exactly 10 seconds.
7. Note the quantity of fuel dispensed. A minimum volume of 180ml in 10 seconds confirms satisfactory fuel pump delivery.
HTH.
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I thought the V019 was the last English (GB) Rave version...
I think you are correct.
Version 16 Disk 1 was the NAS Version, for all models, and without the Technical Bulletins.
Version 16 Disk 2 was the RoW version for the L332, 38A and Defender.
For 17 & 19 both discs were 'everywhere'.
Disk 1 covering the D2, the Freelander, and the Technical Bulletins and Service Recalls if appropriate.
Disk 2 covering the L332, 38A, and Defender.
I don't know about 18 or 20.
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I've never stripped a gearbox, so can't help directly, but I just had to comment about you making too much noise,
with a rubber mallet!!
You must have been using a very persuasive tone of voice!!!
Borrowing the philosophy from Hybrid_From_Hell - Counselling helps, but screaming obscenities is far far cheaper, did you try asking for counselling?
Perhaps we shouldn't know, not in a Land Rover Technical Forum, spanners might slip.
:-)
Written in a frivolous frame of mind!
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FF, some good tips there, suitable to use against any camera that takes my eye.
Also "will play back on a laptop" is a how long is a piece of string type question. What's the laptop? Are you expecting to edit the video on it or just play it?The laptop is a Toshiba Satellite R10-101 convertible (laptop or tablet). 1.70GHz processor, 1.98GB memory
Operating System is XP Tablet 2005, Version 2002, SP3 installed. (Honestly, 2005, Version 2002 is what it says!!)
It also says Graphics are Intel Extreme Graphics 2M. I can pull more detail from the Control panel it it helps, I see it quotes Video memory available etc.
I'd expect to edit on it as well as view any finished product.
At the moment I envisage my editing to be simple stuff, eg. 'cut this repetitive bit of lane'.
Cheers
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What hand-held video cameras are people using (or desiring to use) nowadays?
I suppose that could also be translated to say 'which features have been found to be desirable, and which undesirable?'.
For Example
Image stabilisation seems desirable.
A High Definition format which demands too much of laptop PC graphics, and so won't play back on anything less than a Home Cinema type set up, seems undesirable.
File format seems important, I'm told that some of the latest cannot easily be edited once removed from the camera. Conversion to a more standard AVI / MP4 or similar format may be possible, but it's yet another time and cost consuming overhead, so scores an undesirable with me.
Any others?
I do have price points, over £1,000 is laughable.
Over £500 is a no.
Over £300 is extremely unlikely.
£200-ish is possible, but if the results are going to be so cheap as to be not worthwhile watching twice, then I'll perhaps buy a better still camera, or rely on the Mark 1 Eyeballs and biological memory card I already have in stock.
Cheers.
Winch trouble!
in International Forum
Posted
I can just see that being mounted in the load bay and rigged as a centre winch; and all powered by a standard ZF power steering pump!
Ha, well, a man can dream - better than nightmares (looking at the time of posting).
Worth £50 as scrap; I wonder how much it does weigh?
Cheers