David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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'Tri' meaning 3. So TRIple engined = having three engines. TRIangle, = having three angles.
The term Trinary seems to be popular in Air conditioning systems. It means having 3 functions or elements.
It becomes a bit clearer if you look at the Circuit Diagram for a 2002 Defender, TD5 with AC.
Here it isn't called a trinary switch, but a 'Sensor-Pressure-Air-Conditioning'. Inside the box you will see three pressure switches, High, Medium, and Low. Physically the switch is screwed into the Refrigeration circuit to monitor the pressure. If the pressure goes too high (the circuit is too hot) or the pressure is too low, the circuit is broken, so the compressor clutch is never switched on.
Note the connector number of this sensor - C0279.
Now go back to the circuit closer to the car you are interested in, 1999 Defender, TD5 with AC, and look for the trinary switch. The connector is also C0279.
Looking at the Disco 2 system, Low pressure is 2 - 2.3 bar, High pressure is 26 - 32 bar.
Looking at the 38A system, Low pressure is less than 1.2 bar, High Pressure is greater than 30 bar, Medium pressure (when the system will operate) is between 2.4 and 21 bar.
HTH
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"Never mind telling Paddocks, make sure the CC companies know the source."
The point here, as I see it from the thread comments, is that we don't know the source.
Your comments imply you believe them to be at fault. What proof have you?
"After all, what do they lose if someone gets access to your card details ?".
I'd say they stand to lose a lot, because it's not just going to happen once.
It's because of that 'lose a lot' that it's dangerous to IMPLY they are at fault if they are not.
What is wrong with speaking to the perceived source?
If they are bad uns it makes no difference.
If they are good uns it gives them an opportunity to act sooner rather than later.
The forum management doesn't like people writing that any particular supplier is selling bad parts (I'm not commenting on that policy, merely using it as a comparison).
In my view saying a particular retailer carries an inevitable fraud risk is just as risky. "Inevitable fraud risk" is what this thread implies, and your comments indicate you have accepted that implication.
If it was your business being accused of shoddy practice (in any sphere of operation), would you be upset at the potential loss of business? Especially if no-one had the balls or courtesy to say something directly to you before bad mouthing you on a Forum with a large readership.
I suspect your reaction would be even stronger if it turned out your operation was squeaky clean.
I had better add that although I live close to Paddocks I only know them as a Customer. I don't know any Paddock people at a personal level.
Regards,
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Anyone approached Paddocks about this? What was their response?
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I have no direct experience with this engine at all. My previous response was all based on 'general knowledge'. I've never worked in the trade so my experience isn't that wide.
Oil leaking past the valve stems will be either or both missing / rock hard valve stem oil seals (if the engine has them) or worn valve guides. Valve stem oil seals (if applicable) you may be able to do without removing the head, but I think you will have to remove the head to check the valve guides.
I don't know of a test you can do to establish if this is the cause of the smoke under load (apart from running without oil, which seems a bit desperate!!).
You want to use the vehicle, so I suggest you fix the problem you can see, the rear oil seal, then you can get an idea of how much is being burnt. You have to do the rear main oil seal anyway, and I know it seems like the bigger job, but that's because it involves a bit of heavy engineering.
But remember I don't have direct experience of the engine. I believe some LR engines had rear main seals that were difficult to change without stripping the engine down, so check with someone else about that. I hope that by the time of the S3 5MB engine LR had moved to full circle synthetic seals, but, this is Land Rover and their 'Heritage' we are talking about.
Good Luck
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"... driving for 30 minutes ... went to start it again and just turned they key. It turned over really slowly like it had got a dead battery, I turned they key back then put the glow plugs on and counted to 30 - it then fired up perfectly."
To me this suggests either an internal battery problem, or a connection problem, battery or engine / chassis earth connections. The relatively heavy current consumption of the glow plugs is breaking down a high resistance joint, enabling the much heavier starter motor current to flow.
"It idles with no smoke at all on a slightly fast idle (set by moving the hand throttle up) if I reduce the hand throttle to lower the speed it idles at then it can ran a little rough and every so often it has a little hiccup and a small cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust."
I suggest this could be a separate problem to the smoke under load. BUT, if it turns out to have the same cause it's probably easier to use these symptoms to guide the fix rather than the 'heavy load' symptoms.
I suggest you drain the water trap on the fuel filter (if it has a separate water filter), then retest.
If this cures it, or you don't have a water trap, then change the filter.
I think the 'little hiccup' is water going through the fuel system, the smoke is fuel that didn't burn because of the water. I'm equating the little hiccup to a misfire on a petrol engine.
Smoke under load.
How long since the injectors were changed / checked?
I appreciate that finding somewhere you can trust is difficult, but I suggest you go round your local contacts and see who is suggested. I've been told that within about 20 miles of me is a place that has a test rig on the counter, so Customers can see the spray pattern the injectors produce. To me, that's the sort of place you need to look for.
Another alternative is oil leaking past the valve stems. This could cause both the occasional miss at slow idle and possibly the excessive smoke under load.
Hope these help.
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The part number for a Series TRE cover is 214649.
I don't know whether this suits a Defender appilcation, although LRSeries indicate it does.
Do note the altenative suppliers they list.
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.... I will more than likely become the most annoying person ever on this site as I'm going to need alot of help!
Thanks again,
Andy
Don't underestimate the strength of your numerous competitors!
:-)
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Umm, what's a car park? A parking lot or perhaps what Americans call rest stops?
I've no direct experience of America, but I suspect 'parking lot' is the best equivalent description to 'car park'.
When car and park are used together it means the car is stopped, and usually left.
So you can park a car in a car park and walk to local shops.
You can park a car on the side of the road in a town or village, and walk to the local shops (or walk a scenic trail, or walk in a 'park' (area of grass land, often with flowers and trees, purely for short duration walking).
'Car Park', does NOT infer any other facilities, (toilet (loo), rest room, fuel station, cafe, restaurant, picnic area, etc).
Your question highlights another point, which I'm sure you will cope with. As well as moving from country to country, with borders and different local customs and language, English terminology also changes. You will be aware of the car based differences between American and UK English (hood v bonnet, to name but one), but as your example shows, there are probably an awful lot more, away from cars. This probably applies again as you move into mainland Europe, but I'm not qualified to comment, because I've never been.
You haven't mentioned bringing a pet, so I'm assuming you are not. If you are, you need to ask about 'pet passports', and any restrictions that may follow. Again, one of the things I don't do is own a pet animal, but I understand in the UK it's common to have an identity chip inserted under the skin so that identity can be proved, and misplaced pets re-associated with their carers.
I would also endorse 'Scotland', some points of interest are mentioned here http://www.ejames.co.uk/pictures/jogle/joglediary.html
Good Luck
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I'm sure it's been detailed on here before, so searching should help, but it's probably easier to find on the Ashcroft Transmissions site.
By all means do it an 'easy' way, but (IMV) you will get more certain results if you put more effort into it, by disconnecting the front prop shaft and measuring, with a torque wrench, the force required to move the VC with the handbrakle applied.
Good Luck
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Probably better searching this topic in the International or Defender or Discovery forums. There has been plenty of chat on this topic.
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This is normally considered to be a sign of a 'bad' BECM.
I don't know whether it's a fault on the power board (potentially fixable) or the logic board (not considered fixable, except by replacement of the complete unit).
I suggest you read up, in various places, about the other consequences of changing a BECM before you just dive in and do it.
I have no direct experience of either repairing or changing a BECM.
HTH
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You probably want a post called Nord Lock Washers http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28244 is it.
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Until a td5 'white knight' comes along, my thoughts are;
Yes you have to remove the manifold, not because of swarf, but because you don't know the location of any internal webs or bosses. Whether these exist for strength or to guide the gasses is immaterial, it will be embarrassing to hit one off centre and snap the drill bit, or even worse, make an unthreadable oval hole.
I removed the manifold I modified, and discovering the location of an unknown internal web guided me to the absolute best spot for the tip.
Yours may have no internal obstruction, but until you look, if no one will tell you, you won't know.
Swarf; there is a school of thought that it doesn't matter, because the first puffs of exhaust gas will blow it out through the turbine before it gets up to speed. However, removing the manifold to look at the inside puts the question of swarf into touch.
Drilling; before turbos, manifolds were cast steel or iron, and as you say, difficult to drill. With turbos the needs have changed, the manifold has to be strong enough to carry the turbo over bumps, and withstand very high temperatures. On some engines they will get red hot in service, not just on the test bed.
On my BMW the manifold looked like rusty steel on the outside, but drilling it revealed it to have a very high nickel (?) content. Whatever, it drilled easily and took a thread like a dream. Absolutely no problem at all.
However, if no one is giving you direct answers you can trust, you have to display more faith in your own ability to make appropriate decisions on your own. It's a learning curve, and the pleasure of climbing it is enhanced by the fact that no one has told you where to put your feet, but you have got there anyway.
HTH
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You might be interested in this article http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109423/article....?popularArticle
It's essentially about the different work rates required of a diesel v petrol intercooler installation.
However, the points it makes about the need (in a diesel installation) for constant dissipation of heat, and the benefits of avoiding heat soak, makes interesting reading inconjunction with enhancing the cooling of the intake charge.
From my own experience, if you have fans in front of the intercooler, running them at half speed on a hot day does help to inhibit heat build up in the intercooler, mainly because it brings the temperature down when the intercooler isn't being asked to work hard, but has little airflow, such as in slow moving traffic. Thus as the work rate increases the intercooler is starting from a lower temperature and can heat soak more energy from the compressed air.
The slow fan speeds (by putting the two fans in series) means you aren't asking too much from the alternator, and can thus run them 'all the time'.
The same magazine has done several articles testing the changes caused by spraying finely atomised water on the outside of the intercooler, tying the spray control into the throttle use (and it's not as simple as it first appears).
They have also recently done 2 articles on a new 5 channel data logger. This feeds into the USB port of a PC. There are limitations, but for only 87AUD (~42GPB) it seems good value for money, even when you add postage to that cost. Customs and Excise charges could kill it stone dead - that seems to be their task in life.
With a nod to the comments 'don't know how it works, but it seems to', the article makes the point that however you do it, if the engine breaths more effectively, more air will pass through the MAF. Monitoring and recording this (as a CSV file) really gives you before and after comparisons.
To me, monitoring the MAF seems like a good constant reference point, whether you are taking baseline readings, evaluating the Dastek, injecting water in the intake stream, changing the intercooler, or cooling the intercooler.
References to Parts 1 and 2 respectively.
http://www.autospeed.com/A_111416/hDg34uLt...ms/article.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_111417/article.html
Good Luck
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You have never mentioned calibrating anything. Did you?
The HEVAC ECU needs to see the feedback results when it 'knows' the flaps are jammed against the stops at both ends of the range. It is these values, and ONLY these values, that it uses to confirm the flap is at the correect position.
This explains why you only see a fault on HI (or occasionally (LO), unless the motor / flap stops part way through a mechanical jam.
You can get away with changing motors and not calibrating them (I have, on both LH and RH blend motors), but it's the obvious 'next thing' here.
This is also why testing the motor off the flap is only good for saying the motor moves, and checking the feedback changes smoothly. Push the motor to either end of it's travel and it's almost bound to trigger a fault. The flap normally stops the motor hitting it's own stops, so the calibrated check values won't match if the flap isn't connected.
You should find a calibration funtion in your Rovacom.
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Never having worked on a TD5 I can't give you chapter and verse, but I've read a little, and some of it has stuck.
For specific TD5 advice, try TD5 Alive. http://www.td5alive.com/
Bell Auto Services http://www.bellautoservices.co.uk/ or http://bell-auto-services.co.uk/ is another possible source.
(Two addresses because the front pages are different. They appear to be the same firm).
Jeremy Fearn has been tuning diesels since before these guys started, and is still active in competition. I don't know what he does re TD5 engines, so you will have to ask. His advertising profile isn't as high as the others, but he does have a 4WD Rolling Road installed. (I don't know about the others). http://www.jeremyjfearn.co.uk/
My understanding is that the TD5 manifolds crack because a design change meant they could not flex enough to accomadate the expansion forces due to heat. It might have been that webs were added to make them stiffer, which worked, but the resultant basic structure couldn't then withstand the internal stresses.
You might also have to pay attention to how tightly the manifold fits over the studs. Again (if I'm correct), space is needed to accomodate movement.
A targetted Google search on something like 'TD5 +Manifold crack' might return relevant results.
The basic principle re installing the EGT probe is to have the tip in a position where it gets wiped by each slug of hot exhaust gas from every cylinder. This often means just before the turbo. Try to visualise the flow of each slug, remember most of the slug will flow round the outside of a curve, so you want to sample that, but without putting a damn great obstruction in the way.
If there is a big thick web to hold the studs that hold the turbo on, then that might be good. Or just the manifold side of that web.
While lots of people fit EGT gauges, myself included, I'm not sure many users actually know the difference between a good and a bad reading. For instance, most (including me) only fit them to a modified engine, so have no comparison to make to a standard engine. Also, engine designs differ (amazingly), so what constitutes a safe reading on one may be a disaster reading on another.
The people who might know best are those in engine test / development labs, but those who work there now weren't around when the TD5 was being developed, or if they were, have forgotten all about it, being more concerned with the engines of today and tomorrow.
I know you are using a WI kit 'from stock', but whose make is it?
Good Luck.
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While the floor as described (3/4" marine ply) will be heavy, I would have thought it low enough down to aid stability rather than fight it.
As a sideways look, what vehicle are you comparing it with?
Are you used to how standard Classics feel on the road?
What weight is there above floor level?
I'd get rid of the "fair bit of steel and gubbins" before worrying too much about the floor.
Also try and check out it's true condition before making a decision. I doubt that replacing it will be cheap.
Your polycarbonate idea sounds lethal, whatever your footwear.
Good luck
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3.5 is correct, it's an upgrade released only a few days ago.
Generally I've found it faster that the previous version. On one forum site it seemed to take forever to update, but that was only on the first visit since the upgrade, and I've assumed it was more likely to be a coincidental problem with that site, as it's OK now.
Steve, I'm not sure we can meaningfully comment on your experience. While I'm on slow broadband myself (stated speed about 0.5 MB of the 'up to' 8MB, with downloads rarely exceeding 60kbs) it is clearly quicker than you get. When looking at occasional You Tube (or similar site) videos I normally start them running, then hit the pause button. The video continues to download while I go and visit another site or thread via another Tab. I too have many tabs open at once, but only ever download video streams on a couple simultaneously.
I don't visit Computing help sites on a regular basis, if I did have a problem like this that I wanted to research I'd either throw the problem at Mozilla, or I'd ask on the motoring Honest John 'Computer Related Questions' thread.
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/ind...f=2&t=76389
If you read through that volume, and previous ones, you will see they deal with a wide variety of problems, in a surprising amount of depth, although it is dependent on how much technical detail the originator can handle!!
I'm not sure this helps, I've posted mainly just to indicate support.
Best of Luck.
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whats the wire for?
It's a mechanical security device, if the rubber fails the wire stops the heavy weight falling directly onto the road.
If the weight escaped even at 30mph it would definately be scary, and potentially fatal.
HTH
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I match the part number for the latch, it's on my invoice from July 2005.
I've never bought the studs, possibly because I found they pulled out from the door card before they broke.
As for curing by cleaning, I do think it's possible, but I also wouldn't like to anticipate what life extension you get.
I suspect that partly it depends on what exactly is 'wrong'.
Like you, I also wouldn't appreciate a total failure. I've read the story so many times. It generally goes 'it was playing up, I'm not sure why, but I put off dealing with it. It's totally failed now, the car is stranded somewhere, it's really inconvenient, how can I fix it quickly and cheaply'.
The door latch is a complex part, I certainly baulk at taking one apart (and expecting to rebuild into a working condition).
So, 10 years old, over 100k miles (in my case), then I think I'm worth a new door lock.
I don't pay labour charges, so I reckon I can allow myself a sizeable parts fund.
Try cleaning and see. I'll leave you to judge whether it's better to spray with lots of WD40 in situ, and hope you clean off all the gunge, or take out the latch, properly clean, examine, and regrease, then replace the latch. Just a hint, I did find replacing the latch to be something of a trial. It's something of a Chinese puzzle (other civilisations may also be appropriate).
You have small Torx bits for the screws visible near the latch on the edge of the door?
"... They've only recently come down to a price where most people would consider using them 'in anger'."
A bit of a smile there. Look at the number of new posts coming through, the majority seem to be for Defenders. There has been a recent thread about someone wanting a new radiator plus oil cooler for a Defender. £130+ IIRC. For your 38A? £140 delivered from Island 4x4. For the same facility that doesn't seem a big price difference.
I suspect your door latch will be more expensive than the one for a Defender, but the facilities offered are different.
BTW, I don't mind people choosing some other Land Rover, it's entirely their choice. But in return, because 'not many members have them' is no reason to denigrate the 38A, or their owners, by not bothering about the accuracy of any stories propogated. If people don't care, that's fine, they should go and get involved in something they do care about.
Hope this helps.
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Go to http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php...475&start=0 where the thread has pictures showing the general arrangement of a QT Diffguard, and text explaining why it isn't a 5 minute fix, due to the fact that the required longer studs are pressed in from the inside of the axle casing.
Alternatively, I suppose, one could use plain nuts with loctite, instead of nylock nuts.
If you want more detail you will have to ask on rangerovers.net, or wait on here to see if any reader wants to share their experiences.
SteveG?
HTH
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Just picking up on the aside by q-rover; have you checked you have a valid EKA, that actually works?
Better to establish the state of play sooner rather than later, although your comments do give the impression you have travelled very close to the edge :-)
Secondly, 38A fobs are only freely available on the 'net IF you want one that doesn't work as a remote. If you want to, change the blade to use it as the most expensive key handle you are ever likely to buy, but never dream of it working as a remote.
I am astonished that someone on this Forum, not familiar with with the 38A, should use a 'comic' as an authoritative source.
Mind you, it supports the point I've made before. The 38A is generally unappreciated on this forum (so it doesn't matter if people spray the owners with sh one Tee).
I also think the problems found when checking the propshaft are not indicative of a 'solihull something', but is another example of contempt for the model (and by extension, it's owners).
It'll be no surprise that I do agree with "whoever fixed it needs to be shot before they kill someone".
(Got to end on a high note :-) )
Cheers.
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There were two suppliers that I recall. They both supplied stiffer front bars as well.
WBH Performance of Bourne Lincs.
JE Engineering of Coventry.
WBH closed some years ago, due to the owner reaching retirement age plus.
JE Engineering still exist under changed ownership, as such you can find them on the web, and in magazines, to see if they still have parts for obsolete cars. Whatever they have, it won't be cheap. Normally good quality, and good service, but not cheap.
I have no idea what else might fit, but due to the differential bulge it is probably easier to run the bar across the chassis behind the axle, with arms reaching forward to the axle, rather than running the bar across the axle, and having to curve round the diff. The front bar does the latter, but they weren't making a one off.
With the bar behind the axle the arc of movement is opposite the arc of movement of the axle, so you need links much longer than the front bar to accomodate this difference, and the height changes, and the articulation.
I have no figures for rate, and the actual material makes a difference, but the WBH bar was 22mm in diameter.
You are probably aware the trailing arms are designed to twist along their length, to add the built-in anti-roll function. Adding a spring cross bar between them may look attractive, but any attachments to the arm need careful thought if they aren't to raise local stresses that cause the composite arm to fail. You also have to allow for the propshaft when the axle is on full droop.
Their front bar was the same diameter as standard, to fit the standard mounts, just made of a stiffer spring steel.
The WBH front bar used all the standard mounts, the JE front bar required new mounts welding to the chassis.
Good Luck
HTH
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Any Ideas?
There are various places it could fail electrically, but as it won't respond to the inner or outer handles I'm going to go for a mechanical problem.
Does the internal realease feel as though it's pulling something? The cable from the handle to the latch have a habit of snapping at the handle end. It's normally the drivers side, but that may have been changed already.
You will find this common, most reported faults, and cures, affect the Drivers side, but increasing vehicle age could now cause the failures to occur on the passenger side as well.
From the outside, the door handle is connected to the latch via a rod, and this can come un-clipped.
http://www.rangie.com/articles/19/1823 may be useful reading to understand this arrangement.
In both cases the fact that the latch is stiff with dried up grease may have put the linkages under enough strain to cause premature failure.
Probably the best way in is via the glass aperture. Once unlatched you can easily remove the door card. It doesn't make for perfect access, but it's better than what you have at the moment!!
http://www.rangie.com/articles/19/1825 gives details.
If you haven't already got it, now is the time to download the RAVE CD. Search for Green Oval Downloads and pick the one for the 38A. Once you have created the CD from the Image file you can either run the programme from the CD (slowly), or copy the complete CD as it is to a new foilder on your Hard Drive. Create a shortcut pointing to the rave.exe file in what was the root directory of the CD.
HTH
Track rod end boots
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
We have to allow for the fact that you went for the cheaper option, which may have affected the experience you had.
Mind you, £3.14 v £0.44 (+VAT) means you have to have serious dislike of the blue writing (£7.22 v £1.02 for a pair).
However, although it's only half an answer, at a stall at Newark I saw they were selling un branded TRE style boots in Small, Medium, and Large, so it might be possible to get boots in a more suitable size for big tough Defender :-)
Only half an answer because I didn't note who the seller / stall holder was.
Cheers.