David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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Your comments here I find slightly contradictory "The mount is bolted fast where you would normally find the air conditioning compressor on this engine" suggests a solid mounting, but "Should I remove the rubber mounts " says there is rubber in there somewhere.
Could do with more light on the mountings, but looking at the video I've concluded you have a solid base mount on the engine, with the filter assembly rubber mounted to that solid base mount.
If it's 'just' the filter housing moving on the rubber, I'd say you are OK, but the rubbers may wear rapidly.
Before making that a firm conclusion I'd also recheck the movement when the engine is doing 1000 or 1500 rpm. You will probably find it all smooths out.
Your real concern will be if the 'solid base mount' is moving. If it is noticeably, then it will fatigue and you need thicker or stiffer metal to damp out, or absorb, the vibration forces.
HTH
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I suggest you talk to Jeremy Fearn re converting to a 3.0 option.
I'm pretty certain the basic block, and therefore the flywheel housing / gearbox mounting holes are the same.
I'm also certain this conversion has been done for competition vehicles.
The manual box makes life easier as there is no need to concern yourself with interfacing between auto box and engine electronics.
Jeremy will be able to handle the engine ECU to BECM interface requirements.
The 3.0 could come from a BMW car, it doesn't have to be a L322.
In short, if you are going to DIY convert, this is the no-brainer conversion, but I think Jeremy is the Technical Support you need. You are, of course, ideally placed to have a 38A big intercooler supplied by JJF, plus any fuelling adjustments required to optimise the installation.
HTH
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Suggs doesn't say what type of LR he is working on, or more exactly, what style of swivel.
From my notes, the figures he quotes are correct for a Series 3 fitted with a Railko top bearing and a steering damper. The figures are higher if no damper is fitted.
Your figures are correct for a Defender with a roller (or ball?) bearing for the top pin.
I can't answer your other questions, except to point out that if you leave the seal out, oil can migrate in both directions, depending on the direction of the slope. Thus one swivel will lose some oil, the other will gain some :-)
HTH
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Recently I've seen Capstan winches go for up to ~£600, when almost totally complete and nicely presented.
Ones in normal used condition may only reach half that, and less if not complete.
However I am still surprised at the starting price of this 'Landrover Capstan Winch Aluminium Fairleads / Roller' Item 230344504762
Can anyone help, by suggesting why it might be worth £150?
Cheers.
Oh, I'm not connected with the seller.
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Was the engine running? It might need some attention soon because the whole front section seems to be blurred through vibration.
:-)
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I'm not convinced that the reason for your request is valid, perhaps it depends on the diagnostic tool, but putting that to one side....
You are looking for the fuse that feeds power to the Data Link Connector.
I know people will give it all sorts of names, your Diagnostic Link, or OBD2, or OBD II, but Data Link Connector is the Land Rover description, as far as the 38A is concerned.
Knowing the words means that you can look in the RAVE ETM Circuits section for Data Link Connector (Section D3), which shows Fuse 33 is the one you 'might' blow, and that the DLC is also called C231.
ETM Section Y2 (Fuses) shows F33 does not serve any other circuit.
The ETM Connectors section for C231 gives the pin layout.
If you have to clean corrosion off the pins of the connector you may blow this fuse, as the power is on pin 16, with Earths on pins 4 and 5.
HTH
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Need to look a bit further into the detail here, not all of which is available to us.
We don't know how corroded the discs are, in that space between the friction surface and the disc centre.
The hub and swivel have just been rebuilt, so it's fairly safe to presume the caliper and pads have been removed and replaced.
The vehicle is old enough, or done enough work, to require a hub and swivel overhaul.
It seems reasonable to accept the possibility that the caliper is also not in 100% A1 condition.
Possibly not all the pistons move with the same speed - any effect on braking due to a partially seized piston may have been put down to the more obvious faults in the hub and swivel.
A possible end result is that the first time the brakes were applied the disc was not gripped evenly on both sides. The sideways force, combined with the disc rotating, snaps the disc.
Just adding a general principle here.
If the brake pads have been disturbed for any reason it's always wise to press the pedal one or more times to ensure the pads are moved against the disc BEFORE the vehicle is moved. If the pads were left someway from the disc it's possible for the pedal to hit the floor before the pads have clamped the disc. This is even more likely if part worn pads have been left in; they can have been moved further from the disc, compared to new pads.
HTH
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Quote
"My name is John Marcella, my company is Marcella Manifolds. I build custom sheet metal manifolds for any and all applications and would happy to work with you on your project. I am located in Berkley, Mi. My website is under construction so I have included some pictures of some of my work. If you like what you see give me a call.
John Marcella
Marcella Manifolds
ph.248-259-6696"
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost...amp;postcount=4
Unfortunately, I have no business connection, I was merely looking on.
Regards, David
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TBH it's good practice to change the races as well as the bearings. If the problem did not exist before the job the only way to rectify is to strip down and check your work.
Ahh, it will be interesting to see the response. I'd translated "taper roller encasement" as the hub casting that holds the bearings, thus my 'new bearing not home' response. You have translated "taper roller encasement" to be the outer shell or race of the bearing, which if correct means my response is a nonsense.
Whatever, I agree the answer involves a second look at the work area.
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Do the simple check first, without even lifting the car, hold the top of the wheel and try to rock it sideways, put some effort into it.
There is a possibility the bearings didn't go fully home when you installed them, even after torquing the nut up, but they have moved while the vehicle is being driven.
If the first test shows no clear result, lift the wheel off the ground and try again, but this time also spin the wheel (before you loosen the wheel nuts), to check the wheel is running true.
When you drove it, were the brakes OK?
HTH
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It's not 'just' phone mast emissions that can cause problems.
Anything that works around the frequency 477MHz will do the 'damage'. This is the 'standard' frequency for all sorts of domestic equipment (but NOT WiFi or Bluetooth).
The favourite source is a weather station, yours or a neighbours, with a wireless connection back to the base station.
Other kit can be wireless doorbells, wireless baby monitors, garage door or driveway gate remote openers.
PC wireless keyboards and mice also use this frequency.
One way to prove this is the source is to disconnect the power to the receiver (or the receiver from the antenna). The receiver is under that small shelf, just inside the RH rearmost window.
Assuming your car has an automatic gearbox, do you leave it in Park when unattended? Failing to do so is mentioned as a cause of battery drain.
HTH
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To expand a bit on Western's reply (I'm not disagreeing with it); with the engine running and all systems working properly, the Ammeter is showing the charging current going into the battery. Once the initial recharge has taken place this could be about 5 amps. With the scale of a 50-0-50 ammeter the needle will have moved it's own width (approximately). This isn't a very clear indication that all is well.
At this point the alternator could be pushing out 30 amps in order to run the complete electrical load, but the ammeter isn't intended to show that. Stall the engine and the ammeter will swing into the discharge side to show the 30 amp battery discharge that is taking place.
Cars fitted with alternators were expected to have a larger electrical load, so the 30-0-30 ammeter was changed to 50-0-50 to cope with this higher load, should 'everything' be switched on while the engine wasn't running.
Minimising voltage drop is important if the battery is to be maintained in a fully charged condition, so (apart from the cost of copper) you can see why no-one thinks it a good idea to run long cables between the battery and the alternator.
If you want to persist, there is no single wire in your diagram that you can cut to insert the ammeter.
You need to remove the brown wire from the starter motor and re-terminate it on the fuse box, on the same terminal that currently carries the brown wire from the battery. There are now two wires on the same fuse box terminal. 'Cut' the brown wire from the battery to the fuse box and insert your ammeter. It doesn't matter which way round, because getting it wrong will merely cause the ammeter to show charging when it's discharging, and vice versa.
The effect is that when the alternator is carrying all the electrical load, it is feeding into the fuse box, with the charging current going 'UP' via the ammeter (on your diagram).
When the battery is carrying all the electrical load the current is flowing 'DOWN' via the ammeter to the fuse box.
It will do this for instance when the glow plugs are heating, before you start the engine, and it will show you if one plug fails completely, as you will get less current flow than you are used to seeing. Of course, plugs rarely fail completely like that, they just take a little less current, and don't get as hot.
With this change in mind you can now look at your vehicle and see how much extra wire you need.
HTH.
PS
I have to say, I would not have attempted an explanation of how to wire in an ammeter if you hadn't posted the wiring diagram, so that was definitely a useful bit of self help there by you, (assuming the explanation is worthwhile!!!).
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Hi all.
Can any one tell me if an alarm sensor ( above passenger door) from another Landrover
RR. HSE Disco etc will fit the DSE as they all seem to look the same,
I have an alarm fault showing on the dashand I have been told the alarm sensor is duff.
Regards
Brian
Not that I'm cynical regarding mechanics and 38A's, but the attachments will help you double check that actually need a new Volumetric Sensor, rather than just remaking an electrical connection.
I expect the unit would be standard across all variations of the 38A, but I don't know if the same unit was used on other Land Rovers. It was used, sometimes in different colours, in other Leyland / Rover cars of the era. Metro or it's replacement (Rover 100?) is one that comes to mind.
The part numbers are different, of course. I'd say that if it looks the same it probably is the same.
Having said that, look on eBay car parts section for part YWC103640. There happen to be two at the time of writing, with the 38A version ( 250402993779) being about 6 times the price of the 'other' version!! ( 390040309124).
I am pretty sure the LUM suffix relates to the colour.
Good Luck
Edit.
Well there you go, once you have a few part numbers and names to try, ... Google YWC102890 as an alternative and we find eBay 180353195281 which the advertiser says is from a '94 Discovery.
Hmmm, on second thoughts, '94 predates the introduction of the 38A (in any sensible numbers) so perhaps this Disco part IS different under the skin.
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Blown88, did you find the solution to this puzzle?
Just curious.
Cheers
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Welcome to the fold Holmstack.
I suspect the "spared no expense with work carried out including a full engine rebuild, new turbo, injection pump, ..." has a lot to do with the good mpg / speed results you are getting. It seems you have picked a good one there.
I'll let others comment on specific tyres, just be aware that your tarmac mpg will take a measurable hit when you move to a chunky tyre tread. I'd say about 2 mpg worse off. (This assumes you have a more 'city slicker' style at the moment, although I appreciate you didn't actually write that).
Without wanting to be pedantic, but with a nod at your self imposed 'newbie' title, please be aware that there is some resistance to the term 'off-roading'. Most who do that sort of thing drive on roads; they may not have tarmac, rather stone or grass, and occasionally mud or water, but they are still public highways.
The other alternative is real off-roading, which means using private land, generally pay and play sites. Personally I think that's an excellent way to trash a vehicle, but lots of people enjoy using them.
Re "appreciate recommendations of easy beginner trails where we can share some good driving times in the Huddersfield/Pennine area ?". The 'easy' answer is to pay at least one years subscription to GLASS and ask on their Forum. This should give you a safe start, during which you can build your understanding of the Green Laning world.
There may also be a local club, see what suggestions come out here, or ask once you are in GLASS, as you should then get pointed to clubs that do the activity you are interested in.
While I go out with the Peak and Dukeries club, as well as local GLASS members, this is in the Derbyshire Peaks, so some way from Huddersfield.
If you want to have a look at what is in your area, try Trailwise. Entries here are totally dependent on what private individuals put in, but it gives you an initial taster, and perhaps enables you to ask targeted questions.
This recent topic goes into more detail. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=41699&hl=
HTH
Oh, one last point. If your Discovery has a hanging tow hitch this often becomes a plough on uneven terrain. There are answers that give you both a tow hitch and ground clearance on the different occasions, but after tyres it's the second basic point in preparation of your vehicle.
Have fun.
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Pics of my tablet install with a RAM mount here... http://green90.co.uk/wordpress/?p=77
I now run a Samsung netbook, with a bluetooth M1200 Holux GPS receiver. I get use of keyboard, good form factor 6 hours battery life when off power and on the laptop I find a wireless mouse better than touchscreen.
Cheers Steve
Those pictures (and words) were useful to demonstrate the RAM mount will hold a large screen securely, thanks.
A neat looking website too.
Re "wireless mouse"
At first I thought you must have two bluetooth connections running, but then recalled that wireless mice (and keyboards) tend to have their own Transmitter / Receiver working on the common 477MHz frequency band.
Assuming my second guess is correct, does your Samsung Netbook have built-in wireless hardware for the mouse, or do you have a separate Transmitter / Receiver plugged into a USB port?
Clearly my second assumption is that your terms 'Samsung Netbook' and 'laptop' refer to the same device.
If you are referring to two separate devices my question about a wireless mouse clearly misses the mark!!
Is your mouse a ball or infrared version, and if it's not too personal a question ... what surface do you run your wireless mouse over when in the driving seat? :-)
Cheers
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As I build my PCs i'm familiar with the parts etc, but what do you do for power supply? both for the tablet/laptops and the built in jobbies?
I use both a free standing laptop, when I'm a temporary navigator, and a plumbed in laptop (under a seat) with a remote, dashboard mounted 10" (I think) touchscreen for the car I normally drive.
For both these I use the standard power supplies bought from Maplins, the type with 12V in and selectable voltage out.
Just select the right one for your required output voltage, as some require a step up, and some require a step down.
For the plumbed in PC I could have hard wired the power supply in, but I choose to mount a bank of auxiliary 'cigar lighter' sockets, and despite the clunky looks the performance has been OK, so haven't had to improve the installation.
If you use the standard cigar lighter beware of any High Resistance joints that drop the voltage to the power supply (although this isn't the end of the world). More significantly is that the wiring, socket, and plug overheat, causing plastic to melt and springs to lose their temper (springiness)!!
To a certain extent, laptops are protected by the inbuilt battery, so I've had no problems with surges caused by re-starting the car, or compressors switching in and out.
HTH
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David,
I have the mag in front of me.
Depending on the size of all the scans, I may upload them....you know how to get them from there.
Todd.
I do indeed.
All collected, thankyou again.
David.
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Thanks guys, the main requirement is
REDWING FIRE FLEET
The FT/6, last in the Redwing Range by Carmichael
The other Series 2 stuff would be icing on the cake.
THE OLDEST SERIES II
A prototype of real historical significance
RIDE OF A LIFETIME
1960 short wheelbase Series II restoration
GOODBYE SERIES IIA
‘The World’s most versatile vehicle’
Glue, thanks for starting the ball rolling, but it looks like you have been saved an attic search this weekend.
Tuko and Discomikey,
Do you want to split the workload :-)
Say Tuko do the first two and Discomikey the second two?
I'd like to be fair :-)
I'll put an email address in a joint PM
Thanks again.
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I may have a copy in the loft, I'll try and have a look over the weekend. If I've got it I'll want to keep hold of it but am happy to photocopy bits.
Does this help?
Glue
Yes it does, thanks.
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Has anyone got a copy of this they no longer want?
There is a specific article or two I want to read.
Thanks.
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These PDFs may be useful, although I confess I only found them after DaveSIIA provided the part numbers.
The first mentions both shafts.
http://www.roversclub.org/docs/PTO.pdf
also at
http://landrover-online.dk/L-R%20WSM/series/Pto.pdf
The last refers to a Bottom PTO, and doesn't appear to mention either shaft, but as I found it ... why lose it?
http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/images/RTC7016.pdf
This last includes Operating Instructions covering power available, the different shaft / engine speeds, recommended oil and coolant temps, etc.
HTH
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You probably have it planned, but just in case ...
My understanding from your first post was that coolant was getting into the oil.
(I took "lost oil from the dipstick" to be coolant being steamed off the oil down the exhaust, I had that happen in a Mini).
Therefore don't forget to change the oil and filter when the seal seems to be effective.
Cheers
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Thinking of joining GLASS to support our rights for rights of way!
What are the main benefits?
What mapping info does it allow access to? Trailwise? How much more detail is in there compared to County Council websites and OS / Multimap detailing?
Cheers
Rob
Yes, GLASS gives you full access to Trailwise, although you do have to apply for Trailwise after you have joined GLASS. This is a once only hurdle.
Do you realise you can access Trailwise as a non-member and get some information out?
Mapping to non-members is Streetmap and Google maps.
The 'extra' detail depends on what users of the lane have added.
So it can be as useful or as useless as information you get on Forums. It depends who wrote last. There is no Trailwise equivalent of the Google Streetview camera cars. Would that there was a way of making enough money to support such an activity.
Note that Trailwise lists routes people identify, so it's perfectly valid for a lane to be listed that is illegal to drive along. This isn't daft, it's wise, considering the current Section 59 'two strikes and your car is scrapped' situation.
To test it against somewhere you know already, or against somewhere 'new' you are interested in, go to http://www.trailwise.org.uk/
From the LH menu click Search/View (or Browse maps, but I'm using SV for this example).
Type a place name (that you think has lanes near it) and click enter. **
If there are multiple options the next screen allows you to define which one you want, then the next screen gives you lanes within 3km of the place you named. This is the Text layout.
If at ** you didn't just click enter, but clicked the Map Results button, a new Google Maps window opens with all lanes in a 5km radius of your named place.
If at ** you entered a distance greater than 5km the Text or Map results defaults to 5km radius.
Members can set a larger radius.
Personally I joined GLASS for the reason you set out, "to support our rights for rights of way". I felt I wouldn't be spending a lot of time being active, so I'd contribute what I could, which is a small amount of money per year.
The extent of actions in 'your' area depend on the people involved.
In Derbyshire Peaks there seems to be a lot of close liaison at the discussion level, less at the road repair level, because the local authority is strongly resistant to volunteer labour.
GLASS people will be invited to attend with the Police both on 'Driver Education' outings (there was one this weekend), and at local Council meetings, where GLASS and TRF will be present.
Hampshire may be different.
HTH
I have an alarm fault showing on the dash
OT: 'Looominum sheet
in International Forum
Posted
I suppose it's all been used up, that aluminium that was delivered to the Islands a few years ago, by the Argentinians as well as ourselves? Probably wasn't flat sheets anyway, not after it was landed!
:-)