David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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To understand the bending moment, by what seems like a perfect example of serendipity, you should read the post I reference below. Posted today, it describes the effects experienced when towing a 109 behind an 88, via a tow pole that is obviously centrally mounted on the towing vehicle, and offset on the towed vehicle.
When the vehicles are straight behind one another the pole is angled. Under power the towing vehicle attempts to pull it straight, which offsets the towed vehicle to the right. In this configuration there is no bending moment. But, the driver of the towing vehicle doesn't want to drive in the gutter, so the straight pole puts the towed vehicle on or over the white line down the centre of the road. The driver of the towed vehicle steers left to avoid this, angling the pole. With the driver of the towed vehicle steering left the traction of the front tyres forces the pole one way, while the traction of the rear tyres on the towing vehicle forces the pole the other way. Combine these sideways forces with the forward pull exerted by the towing vehicle and you get the bending moment mentioned.
The post I reference doesn't attempt to describe what happens (which is why I've just attempted that), but it does describe clearly what it feels like, which may help with the understanding.
http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=30914.msg276297#msg276297
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If the S3 is the same as the S2 in this respect, on the front of the gearbox, near the base of the Hi/Lo lever, there is a tinplate cover with three (I think) protruding tubes (with closed ends). Water gets in here and rusts up the works. Remove the cover, clean, lubricate, and free off, replace the cover with some instant gasket to stop water getting in again.
Alternatively it might be a loose nut on the end of a shaft, which I believe is accessible by removing a cover at the rear of the box.
Of the two possible remedies, I'm less certain about the second one.
Hoping someone else gives a more experienced second opinion.
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Vehicle Registration Number BF09LCW
Make LAND ROVER
Model DEFENDER 110 D/C P-U
Colour GREY
According to http://www.autochecknow.co.uk/
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It's boring to keep writing this, but attempting to maintain a 38A without a copy of the RAVE Workshop and Electrical manuals to hand merely brands anyone as their own worse enemy. Google Green Oval RAVE and go from there.
I see from looking at your previous post that you have used this forum before, to help with 38A problems. Surely you have seen that advice already?
The wires in the fuel filter head unit are for a fuel pre-heater. (Shown in the ETM).
The fail to start may or may not have anything to do with the failed in-tank fuel pump.
I'm quite prepared to go with Sheltie's suggestion of failed glow plugs, but I don't associate their failure with the failure of in-tank pump. That said, very few people have sufficient experience to say what the side effects are of a particular failure are when it is ignored, EXCEPT to say that it inevitably makes diagnosis of a further fault more difficult. With any car, but particularly the 38A, don't ignore faults, fix them as they occur.
Regarding changing the in-tank pump, why make things more difficult? The tank is easy to drop from underneath, but if you don't have the Workshop Manual perhaps you don't realise that. Normally I'd suggest running the tank down as low as possible, to reduce the weight, but now you can't start the engine you don't have that option.
See what I mean about the benefits of NOT leaving faults until a second one occurs?
With the failure of the in-tank lift pump, of course the High Pressure pump is now responsible for getting fuel from the tank to the engine. How else is the fuel to flow when the tank is below the engine? Again, the Workshop Manual takes the guess work out the analysis.
As the HP pump is not a very good suction pump, your fail to start may be because the fuel filter is clogged just enough to prevent fuel flow at engine cranking RPM.
I do appreciate everyone has to start somewhere, but help yourself by getting and reading the Manuals.
Treating Manuals as a last resource, to be tried when all else has failed, is simply making life a lot harder than it need be, especially with the 38A (and probably later models of Land Rover).
Good Luck.
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Past a few cm the pipe looks fine, is it worth having the pipe cut and new ends put on? I'm guessing it's probably not worth it?
I'd say yes, it is worth repairing. Take the hose to some shop that deals in air compressors etc and either have them do the work, or buy the appropriate crimpable clips (I forget the correct name) and DIY. Buy some spares for next time, the hose isn't obviously top quality.
Is there any advice to stop it happening again. (am I doing anything wrong?)
In my experience, this style of perishing happens to any and every hose if it's natural state is to bend at ~90 degrees after it leaves the fitting. IE, the outlet points horizontally, but the pipe bends down through gravity. My approach is to install a metal 90 degree bend into the horizontal outlet, so that it now points vertically downwards. The initial sharp bend in the hose is eliminated, and any other bend isn't as sharp, or always there, so the hose is not stressed. I style all my installations with downward pointing outlets; compressed air, oxy-acetylene, and mig-welding hoses.
Note that sharp metal bends have a negative effect on maximum airflow, the pressure dropping off as demand becomes high. Minimise this effect by using a bend in the largest diameter bore you can fit, which possibly means putting the bend straight into the tank, before the tap.
Given the standard (highly flow restrictive) tap and regulator fitted to MM / Clarke compressors, this may not be practical without replacing the tap, water trap, and regulator. Also the standard adaptors screwed into the tank tend to be sealed in with some sort of lacquer, and take some real grunt to remove. All in all you may prefer to go with the simpler 'after the tap' small bore bend.
I do tend to leave the compressor full of air which I know isn't recommended, and I leave the pipe full of air. I had a backup pipe which got the job finished today (one of those orange coil hoses which comes free) this time I switched the tap off at the outlet then let the air out of the pipe - is that something I should normally do?
Given my installation, I sometimes do empty the pipe, more often I don't.
There is a risk, made worse if you leave the hose lying all over the floor to be walked on, have things drop on it, or burn it. The risk assessment and the consequence of the subsequent decision are all yours. :-)
HTH
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There is no specific 'Off' switch for the blowers, only the rotary control, any output of which is controlled by the HEVAC ECU, of which the control switches + display are part.
If you really want the blowers totally disconnected, look for the appropriate relays or fuses in the engine bay fuse box. There is a pictogram inside the fuse box lid to help.
I cannot recall if mine can be switched off via the rotary switch; it's not something I'd bother with, but I recognise you are handling some other A/C fault at the same time.
Again, The ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) that comes as part of a RAVE CD is invaluable.
There are words describing the circuit operation, as well as wiring diagrams, etc.
HTH
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Time to look locally for Air Con specialist that doesn't charge an arm and a leg. I found one who did home visits to be cheapest, and most thorough.
Obviously there could be a variety of issues causing the compressor not to switch on.
The issue which 'happens to any air con system' could be low pressure caused by gas leaking away, probably from a failed condenser (the slim 'radiator' in front of the coolant radiator). If, repeat IF, the problem is a failed condenser, these can be bought and replaced on a DIY basis, as there is no gas to collect (to prevent it fouling the atmosphere). You will most likely be re-using the O-rings that seal the pipes, so treat them gently.
Price condensers on eBay to get a ball-park figure, although I bought locally.
If you have never seen it done on a 38A, this is an adventurous repair if you are also in-experienced with the 38A.
The issues 'specific to the V8 38A' have to do with:
A/ Low voltage to the clutch. There is a Land Rover electrical modification to overcome this. It's detailed in the Technical Bulletins, which in turn are included on the RAVE CD.
B/ Wear in the electromagnetic clutch causes the air gap to become too large. Sometimes a tap on the compressor, while the engine is running, 'proves' this, as the jolt causes the clutch to engage. The clutch can be stripped and shims removed to eliminate this fault.
This cure is not part of the Land Rover manuals, instead look on www.RangeRovers.net.
So, three things to do.
1/ Download a RAVE CD from the Green Oval site. (Google).
2/ Find, bookmark, and spend time reading, the 38A pages on www.RangeRovers.net.
3/ Find a local A/C specialist.
1 and 2 help you with any and every fault you have on the 38A, and are absolutely essential.
3 is specific to this fault, but even if not required this time, "time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted". You will need this resource sometime.
HTH
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As for davids comment about not backing off the normal fuel, the point being that if the engines developing more power due to the LPG, then for a given amount of power before and after, you need less throttle and hence less diesel to make it when your on LPG.
I agree that's what it looks like, but what is controlling the amount of LPG ingested? If the control is based on the throttle position, or the diesel flow, then backing off the throttle reduces the LPG.
The point I had in mind, but didn't put into words, was about steady state cruising, say motorway work. Here, it seems to me, you only need just enough diesel to light the fire, then ingest lots of the cheaper LPG to provide the bulk of the power required. Of course, a change in timing may be beneficial.
BUT, I don't think any LPG control system gives you the opportunity to ramp up the % of LPG when on a small throttle opening at 3000 rpm, compared to full throttle at 3000 rpm. Also I've never seen offered the facility to change the timing.
Electronic control (did someone say Megasquirt?) offers the opportunity of controlling two fuels, but has any one tried it? Of course, it implies starting with an electronically controlled diesel fuel injection system, while the LPG vapour control could be an adapted EGR system, as some use an electronically controlled valve to govern the amount of exhaust gas being ingested. Obviously in this mode you blank off the exhaust gas input, and use the LPG vapour as the input.
But I think we are gettng away from the original requirement.
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I'm thinking this is a more reliable setup than going VNT, especially for long trips up Spanish mountains with a full load?
Anyone care to pass comment? An affordable VNT option has also been offered.
To put the last line first, I'm generally negative about propane injection, having been there and done that, allbeit with a different engine.
" ... long trips up Spanish mountains with a full load".
To this full load you are thinking of adding a large and heavy cylinder; even 110s have a finate amount of carrying space and weight capacity.
Check out the availability of LPG as a car fuel in Spain, you may be limited to vapour draw 'barbeque' tanks. UK in-car installations are normally liquid draw tanks.
The only people who make money out of propane injection kits are those people selling them.
Once you take the combined Diesel and LPG fuel costs into account I expect your fuel cost per mile to go up, not down.
Even if you do get suitable LPG cheap enough to get lower fuel costs per mile I don't think you will save enough to counter the installation costs.
Petrol and Diesel have fairly standard quality specifications, the same cannot be said about vehicle LPG. For instance, the stuff in the Netherlands is much better than the stuff in the UK. Ask someone like Gordon Finlay.
Diesel plus LPG should give you increased performance, after all, you are burning more fuel.
A lot depends on the design of the engine AND the state of the diesel fuel injectors. In general, you get better results from improved combustion when the original design of the combustion chamber is poor, and the worse the state of the injectors (emitting drops of different sizes, rather than a uniform very fine spray). Otherwise the performance gain comes from the additional fuel.
It's fair to say that I don't follow the 'industry' closely, but I have yet to see a fuel control system that controls both diesel and LPG, so you cannot increase the cheap fuel while reducing the expensive fuel, while you drive. Neither have I seen altitude compensation for the LPG fuel control system.
Plenty of people have gone to Spain, and returned, with standard vehicles, but if you want more power I suggest the first step is to have your injectors checked, and overhauled as neccessary, and only then look at conventional tuning, to get the engine to burn more diesel.
HTH, even though it reads like a bucket of cold water on your hot idea.
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'Unit with the screen' I'm guessing to be the one that shows the temperature setting (rather than the Message Centre that is part of the instrument console).
The one with the Temperature setting is a combined unit comprising the HEVAC ECU and the control buttons. At the time I wrote the following article I called it the ATC ECU.
http://www.rangie.com/articles/71/1589
You will also find a lot of information on the www.RangeRovers.net main site which look in more detail at the bulbs in the switches etc.
For the fuel release switch you are looking at removing the Instrument console. Look for articles on changing Blend Motors, as the Instrument Console has to be removed then.
As your enquiry reads as though it's your first time ..... Good Luck.
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Does this topic hold any merit in the context of Land Rover Technical Information/Interest?
John
Yes.
It tells us that Maplins stock Heat Shrink tube, but not to be put off if the store assistants don't know it.
It tells us that when animals are present, or likely to be present, we should take appropriate precautions to minimise their adverse interaction with the important things in life, like cars and associated equipment.
Some of us will take the hint, and keep good things out of reach of animals.
Some of us will take the hint, and not keep pet animals.
Some of us will fail to recognise the hint.
:-)
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It's an auto box, presumably you have tried moving the gear leaver slightly while holding the key turned? Do you get the same result in both Park and Neutral? Do you get any warning in the message centre if you try to start with it in gear? I'm not familiar with the auto box version, so I'm not sure if you should get a warning message or not. If you don't know and don't have access to a book perhaps someone with relevant experience can chip in for you.
If it's lost synchronisation I'm a bit surprised you don't get some words in the message centre, but there again my car has never had the 'lost synchronisation' problem.
As already said, the year and engine would help, we could then ascertain if it had friendly synchronisation fitted.
Can you lock and unlock the vehicle with the remote on the key fob?
What state is the alarm LED showing before, during and after your starting attempts?
HTH
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Although it was someone else (in this Forum) who pointed me to the CD Freaks site, I have successfully used the method outlined in the link that PatPat refers to.
There are two points that are generally missed.
A/ What you end up with is a set of pdf files with names that do not describe their contents. There are many repeated file names, so as you unlock the files you need to ensure you replicate the Folder structure of the original CD.
B/ There is no Index or set of Bookmarks pointing you to which file covers what. You have to create that yourself.
This does push you towards reading each file, which has two consequences:
1/ You find the Descriptions in the Index on the Heritage CDs were sometimes misleading.
2/ You find information which you had never seen before.
3/ You find information that appears more than once under different file names.
Of course, as you create an 'Index' in the format of your choice you may choose to give the files names which more accurately reflect their content. You can now move away from the Folder structure of the Original CD.
HTH
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I've a vague (so probably incorrect) idea that you can't fit the fog lights to the diesel due to the nearside aperture being used as an air intake for something (intercooler?).
Well remembered! If it was being used as an air duct, the giveaway is that the solid blanking plate is a grill.
It's used as a air intake for the oil cooler connected to the autobox. As I understand this example has a manual box he's OK.
Since Dave has just sorted his springs out that might well be something of a slur on his vehicle
He doesn't say what age and mileage it is, but even as a manual you could easily pay £3k for a really tidy early 2.5DT at the moment, especially if it's got a few desirable extras like a leather interior. I had to pay £3.6k for a fairly tidy N-reg with new air springs (but not compressor, as you'll see from my other posts!) a few months ago - automatic, but manuals were only going for about £500 less. That said, as it's not the first Land Rover Dave has tinkered with, I doubt he has any illusions about increasing it's value!Well that's interesting. I'd got the impression my '95 DT was as worthless as I've implied. Mind you, I did buy it 10 years ago, it's got about 175k miles on the clock, and I wouldn't say the bodywork is excellent. It does 'scrub up well' when I can be bothered to clean it, providing you don't stand too close.
Against those demerits it gains in other areas, IMHO, but the opinions of others probably differ.
Sorry, I don't intend to divert the thread.
I wasn't aware of the OP's history; I just based my reply on his post in this thread.
Cheers.
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From a strictly financial point of view an old standard manual 2.5DT is probably worth more as a £2k trade in than it is in it's own right, especially with worn out springs and compressor.
Upgrading it is not financially viable.
Once that has been accepted, and you are prepared to let comments containing words like 'sows ear' and 'silk purse' fly past without stooping low enough to answer them, we can look at the practical side of your activities.
You are doing this for pleasure, and part of that is learning about the technical intricacies of the vehicle. People will offer guidance, but that's all it is. If you want to avoid total frustration you need to teach yourself.
First step is to get a copy of the RAVE CD from the Green Oval site. Whenever a question occurs use it as a learning exercise and read the manuals, as you need to learn your way around them, and solving a problem is the best motivation.
For instance, your first step with the fog light question could be to look in the Owners Manual (it's on the CD), as this will show you where the switch is.
Next look at the accessory fitting instructions (they are on the CD) as these will give you clues about the alternative wiring schemes there were, from which you can find out which switch you need.
It is also a good simple self teach exercise in reading and understanding pictorial instructions. They aren't as easy as you might think, not if you want to pick up all the detail.
Next look at the ETM for the wiring diagram, understand the connector terminology, look at the pictures showing where the connectors are, then go and find them on the car, cross referring the wire colours to those on the wiring diagram to ensure you have found the connector you want.
Next read up how and when the lights come on, or won't come on. This might be in the BECM section, which despite being a box of electrical bits is most comprehensively described in the electrical section of the Workshp Manual, NOT the ETM.
You appreciate we have answered one of the questions, the wiring exists in the loom, BUT when you find the connectors look closely at the pins. In an old vehicle they will be corroded, and when you try to clean the pins they may snap off.
If you read everything you can find in the Manuals you will probably read that the lights need to be enabled in the BECM. This is a one-shot exercise, use it to find someone local who has an Autologic or`Rovacom gizmo who can do this for you. Or use it as an excuse to buy one for yourself.
Note there are two styles of fog lights. The early ones have all fluted glass, the later ones have a clear oval in the glass. Each light comes with two breather pipes to avoid condensation; all four pipes terminate at the level of the bonnet slam panel.
Trip Computer: Just using my memory I'm not sure what conditions have to be met, it probably depends on the BECM fitted, rather than the gearbox or engine. Sods Law means you need a later version than you have. Beware just dropping a second hand BECM in 'just to see', as the displayed mileage will default to the highest value of whatever is in the Instrument console AND the BECM.
HTH
You can of course install a complete overlaid system, with in-line fuses connected back to the battery or a fuse box terminal.
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No problem Steve, I was just presenting the other side of the story.
I did start 'How times change'.
After both sides have been aired, with factual information, like the weight and the pull rating, and the cost of the winch plus rope, it's up to the OP to decide which suits best.
Ironically, the '£50' doesn't weigh that heavily with me. If the chosen winch is not fit for the circumstances then it's not fit. Even if only cost £50 it's still not fit, and it's £50 wasted. I happen to think that's a very low price, which is not common. Right place, right time applies.
Nor do I adopt a holier than thou standpoint about driving alone. I do it, why shouldn't you. We are grown up, why shouldn't we take responsibility for our own decisions.
Mind you, wherever I get stuck I am probably always nearer what passes for civilisation than you are :-)
(With the empasis on distance, not the degree of civil behavoir!).
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How times change.
The standard crankshaft driven Fairey winch I have just weighed on the bathroom scales is ~27kg. Any rope is kept separately of course, so is not included in that weight.
When making comparisons don't forget to add the rope weight to the weight of the bare electric winch. I understand your choices are heavy but cheap steel rope, or light but expensive plasma type rope. Either type is 'tied' to your winch, and is difficult to use for any other purpose. A Capstan rope is available for any other purpose, and is normally hidden from view, although whether it's any more secure is a debatable point :-)
For the capstan, which rope is 'best' depends on the bollard design, which changed over the years, and between manufacturers. Some work best with Polyester, some with manilla. eBay seller '1970-2a_landrover' markets both.
Read the text with Item number: 180398503715 for more information.
Ebay search terms +winch +rope get you enough variations to do a price comparison between Steel, 'Plasma', and 'Capstan' ropes.
Looking back at Land Rover publicity material available in the 60's, 70's, 80's, they certainly said a capstan winch was suitable for self recovery. They also gave a maximum pull of 2500 lb.
Standard Capstans were shaft drive, either off the engine crankshaft, or off the Transfer box PTO, with a shaft running forward alongside the engine.
Higher pull figures were available using a hydraulically driven capstan winch, typically fitted to GPO vehices, and having a taller bollard - to get more turns of rope on.
HTH
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I see you aren't actually asking for advice, which is just as well as we only know you are about 3000 miles away from the UK, and your currency is a $ (which is used in many parts of the world). Your profile is`silent as regards your location.
Perhaps you should be asking forums / user groups with a readership more local to yourself to find out their good experiences.
As you have special requirements, can we ask what steps you took to explain those special requirements to the Vendors before placing an order? Their replies may well have given you a basis on which to judge whether it would be wise to carry on with the order.
HTH
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GLASS have quite a comprehensive Map Room within their Library, and I think they have some sort of commercial agreement with OS, so it might be fruitful to use your personal GLASS membership, or the affiliate GLASS membership your local club has (might have).
HTH
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My only thoughts on the twin pass style (and I've no experience of them), is to re-phrase the description so that it reads, the hot inlet and the cold outlet adjacent to each other.
I'm not sure whether this is ever a negative, but I do think it's worth mentioning.
To people with single pass or crossflow intercoolers, even if you don't get really involved and put two temperature gauges in there, put the engine under some stress, like full throttle up a hill where the gradient is steep enough to stop the car accelerating. As soon as practical after the top of the hill, pull over and stop. Leave the engine ticking over (obviously), but put your fingertips on the solid aluminium at the outlet, then do the same at the inlet (of the intercooler). You might be surprised how hot the inlet is.
Given a few minutes more driving, in a twin pass design, I think some of that heat is going to be conducted to the adjaent outlet. Of courde, the neatness of the installation may create stonger advantages.
HTH
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The other point about your intercooler is proximity to the rad. I'd ignore this too. The intercooler is largely irrelevant at low revs/speeds because you are running low boost then. Once you get a decent move on there is inevitably going to be plenty of air flow to render heat transfer from the radiator irrelevant.
This has NOT been my experience.
It's not so much the transfer by radiant heat while moving at "a decent rate" (just what is that speed, 50 mph?)
Rather it's the fact that the Intercooler soaks up the radiant heat when the car is moving below "a decent rate".
The warm intercooler is a less effective cooler when the engine airflow increases.
I also think it's false to equate low road speeds with low boost.
The OP is towing, probably using high boost in 2nd and 3rd while accelerating. This action will heat the engine (radiator) and throwing hot air into the intercooler, while the cooling airflow due to forward motion is low.
I'd also recommend a free flow exhaust system, by removing cats, silencers etc. The faster flow of exhaust gasses that results not only reduces the transient time for the turbo to speed up, but also ensures it spins faster at any given engine speed, thus the boost is higher at any constant engine (road) speed, compared to a restrictive (standard) exhaust system.
It seems to me that sometimes you are pulling across petrol experiences / generalisations into a diesel application, and they don't always apply.
Cheers
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Don't do low speed work? You mean you never get stuck in traffic, never drive in congested conditions?
You tow but only at high speed? I didn't know the opportunities for that sort of driving still existed in the UK :-)
From your description I'd say your engine normally works fairly hard. While moving the heat goes backwards, but drop to 30 ish and it will radiate in all directions. I'd estimate that 3 to 5 minutes of 30 mph after a good tow and the intercooler will have jumped 10C at least.
Start with 4, when you get bored in 12 months or so go to 1.
Hold a decision about the fans until you find out whether or not the engine goes 'soft' when it gets warm. If it does you need them, if it doesn't you can manage without - unless you fit a dual gauge to monitor air temperature and turbo pressure, say, because then you won't have to guess, or rely on someone elses's opinion, you will know what happens when (and whether I'm right or wrong)!!
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I mean, is it possible for the heat of the radiator to radiate forwards whilst driving, actually heating the intercooler?
Yes, very much so. Obviously it is affected by how close the two are together, but if you ever monitor the air temperature at the intercooler outlet, or in the inlet manifold, you will see a significant rise after you have changed from high to low speed travel (the two are relative). I have easily seen 40C in the inlet manifold, when the ambient air temp has been ~20C. Remember the radiator will be at 80C or more, once the engine is warm.
If this becomes a concern, consider having small electric fans blowing all the time once the engine has warmed sufficiently to open the thermostat. This won't cool down a hot intercooler, but it minimises the heat soak of the intercooler from the radiant heat of the radiator. Arrange these fans to blow or suck directly onto the intercooler. I use two side by side fans coupled in series, which minimises the current drain while covering the full width of the intercooler. You really need these fans at low vehicle speeds, or while queing in traffic. Engine and alternator speeds are low under these circumstances, so you do need to keep an eye on the current draw.
HTH
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He doesn't say what age and mileage it is, but even as a manual you could easily pay £3k for a really tidy early 2.5DT at the moment, especially if it's got a few desirable extras like a leather interior. I had to pay £3.6k for a fairly tidy N-reg with new air springs (but not compressor, as you'll see from my other posts!) a few months ago - automatic, but manuals were only going for about £500 less. That said, as it's not the first Land Rover Dave has tinkered with, I doubt he has any illusions about increasing it's value!
abs pump running frequently
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Can't account for what work activity might have caused this, but if the complaint of pump running often came in on it's own, the normal suggestion is that the pressure reservoir (bomb) has lost it's pressure and needs changing.
Whatever the cost is, I suggest changing it, as pumps worn out through overuse are a LOT more expensive.
Possibly having all the fluid removed from one side of the diaphragm has allowed the diaphragm to move too far and split. I'm told that normally these pressure reservoirs are changed without needing to bleed the system, but of course you have to clear any residual system pressure before you unscrew the reservoir.
If the diaphragm has split, be prepared for the bomb to be full of fluid instead of Nitrogen, with consequent substantial spillage when removed.
HTH, but these comments are based on reading about the 38A system, rather than the Classic system. You may care to check the components and disassembly comments against a Classic Workshop manual.