TD5toV8110

S2 is a gonner, chassis/bulkhead totally rotten every panel bent. Maybe sell engine/'box to someone. Roofless one, again chassis/bulkhead rotten. Sold roof. every panel stoved in (cows I think...) Blue one is ok ish, but Holden 6 engine. Popular over here back in the day. Now everyone wants originality. Looks like it's had a bucket of body filler at some point... It is going to be my tub donor! (and sell roof) I've pre sold two gearboxes, just need to remove them and get on a pallet. Had a hip replacement two weeks ago, so apparently can't "overdo it" Physio Nazis monitor my steps via witchcraft, limited to 2000 per day....I did 7000 one day and 4500 yesterday so I'm in trouble for my Monday Zoom consult.... This squashed me 6 months ago...

This will be my cab extension piece.

Edit... Can I add text to each pic somehow? This is going to be a slow one....🙃 2000 TD5 wagon is the chassis, axles, steering & bulkhead. 1998 Disco for engine and auto 'box. A Series 2 and 3 for body parts. Truck cab is being extended 150-200mm. Chassis has had 400mm chopped between rear cross member and rear axle. P38 front air springs in the rear. Range Rover classic Suffix A coils up front. Subaru BRZ heated seats. Wide rims from a 130, 225/95/16 Bridgestone's. I need to move the engine/'box back at least 100mm. (from its mockup position now) To do this means chopping my "just" rebuilt bulkhead and removing the mid crossmember. Then I can fabricate engine/'box mounts. Then make good the rear of the chassis. shorten tub, fit S2 front end. My S2 donor needs some serious body work. I can buy much better wings but big $$ and none nearby. So, hammer & dolly it is! Here are some pix of "it" and the donors....

The proper crimper does a nice neat job in one hit. It's stepped so squishes one half to the wire, then the "wings" to the insulation. Here's my crusty one!

Maybe get some of these? 6 pin seems to be the biggest easily available. Need a special crimp tool, but once you get the technique the make very good connectors!

Are you using 3mm for that (and the gussets)? 🤔

Fire extinguishers were on my list. Also have an old 240 volt compressor, might see if I can squeeze the tank in front of the rear cross member...🤪

Hey Stephan, On my "project" (build thread coming soon....)🤣 I'm keeping the A/C compressor. Just needs a strip n lube to be a high performance air compressor at the flick of a switch. Far superior to any 12 volt jobbie. Going to use a D1 transmission crossmember as receiver tank.... Cheers Dave

I can't fully remember (10 years ago) when we put a 1UZ in a mates Hilux. It needed a hall sensor on the tail shaft telling the ECU to increase idle as the vehicle came to a stop or it kept stalling at junctions/lights etc. Engine was from a Soarer, the sensor was in/on the gearbox that we didn't have. We never did fit one! I taught him to heel n toe to prevent it cutting out...🤪 Cheers Dave

Hey Serg, on mine those load bearing points are all over the place as well; classic LR tolerances. Mine was a 2000 5 door. I'm sticking a chopped up S3 tub on it so who knows what to reference from...

Mine is embarrassingly carp compared to the legendary work on here.... I literally had a hip replacement last week, so walking wounded right now! Pelvis/femur fractures due to 1/2 ton ride on mower squashing me 6 months ago... (not old age!)🤪 I will aim to start a thread next week.....Lets say October 1st. Now I'm committed!😬 Cheers Dave

Epic as usual! Hey Serg, what is the height from top of spring perch (rearmost) to floor? And top of cross member to floor? I'm doing remarkably similar (but 99% more ****!) My pre cut measurements were 11mm different left to right! (straight edge on topside of chassis to croissmember) I ended up with a measurement from floor to centre of crossmember. (a random average....) Would be nice to see what you have (to the nearest 0.01mm!) 😁 Cheers Dave PS can't you use weld through primer for TIG?

Grab some of this. ($30 a litre from the big green shed) Chuck it in a mist bottle. Spray it on all your naked metal. It will stay looking new until you're ready for final finish. You can weld through it too. (my ****ty standard welding anyway....)🤣 You may need to scrub up prior to your surgical welding...🤪 Cheers Dave

Air bags!🤪

Well, how much lighter is it than the TDI.....🤔

Thanks guys! I had an epiphany! Maybe the rusty bolt wasn't welded to the L bracket and just rusted in place..... I belted it with a hammer and they separated! The original bolts were L shaped, L bracket slid in for strength/support, feed "L shaped" bolt in through slot/bracket and rotate 90 ° They must be early Rocky Mountain? 🤔 Expert pic for clarity! 🤪

Yes S2 latches at the top. And fixed front pane. The hole at the bottom had a patch riveted over. I can only assume access to get the bolts in. Someone else said "only" RM ever made Rover tops in Ally. Tooling for the extrusions would be $$$

Rocky Mountain door tops or? Off an S2, need to replace the bolts, had to cut the old, rusted ones. Small access hole looks (impossible?) to insert new long bolts. What do you lot think? Cheers Dave

Perentie people want the axle for the disc brakes. I am going custom tail shaft regardless as the engine/'box is being moved to a non-standard position. My vehicle is being engineered. The certificate stays with the car when sold.... Plenty of mildly modified D1's getting about on stock axles/shafts/diffs... They tend to fail with bigger tyres and abuse... I might be getting a D1 axle tomorrow as part of a trade with the Defender doors. So another $1000 in the pot when I sell the Sals!

Hey @Stinkfloyd shouldn't a 1960 have lights in the grille? 🤔

Pix are the right way up for me down under...🤣🤣🤣 I'm doing similar, but coils/air bags. Having to move engine way back to accommodate lights in grille.🤪

Stephen when you retire from your day/night job you will be sorely missed.... In effing credible work!

On the contrary, this build is well in the black so far... Buying at the right price, selling what I don't need... The TD5 was a bargain. Non runner, rotten bulkhead, no body (donated it to a Perentie conversion) Got the engine running (leaky fuel cooler allowed water in the fuel) Sold engine/box for more than the whole car! Repaired the bulkhead. Chassis is mint. It came with the Perentie tub. Sold it for a Grand. Swapped the alloys for 130 wide steelies plus $250 my way. Got 5 brand new Bridgestone Duelers 225 95 16 for $400! (factory fit on Toyota Troopies, people drive their new car straight to the tyre shop for new 35's so 225's always cropping up cheap) Bought a clean D1 with dodgey brakes, pulled the engine and 'box and sold the rest for $500 more than I paid! Had to buy a job lot of 4 Series Rovers, S2, 2 S3's and a Stage 1. Already well in profit after selling the Stagey and some bits. After harvesting the bits I need will sell/scrap what's left. Front springs $100 but I did 2 hours work for them. Rear bags $160, air switches and fittings etc $100. Can sell the Sals for $1000 to a Perentie owner, $200 should buy a D1 axle. I'll do a big shop with one of the UK specialists when I finalize the shopping list! I will start a build thread one day soon.....🤪