Turnips

Apologies, I updated my build thread but not this one! I used a Speedisleeve for both flanges, and they worked fine - although the vehicle will not be finished for a while so time will tell if they will leak or not... I modified the tools which came supplied by grinding the end from one of them and tacking them both together.

I used to be a regular waxoyl user. I have come to the conclusion over the last ten years that unless you have the vehicle from an 'as new' condition, nothing is going to work that well. Like @FridgeFreezersays, you end up having to redo whatever it is that you are using. Waxoyl has the problems of creating a scab which still rusts underneath - meaning you have to scrape off the treatment from a year or two ago and reapply, although it looks great when freshly done! For something which is scabby underneath some kind of oil treatment before winter can hold it back but we all know it's a losing battle. I'll be using Dinitrol on the 109, but I wouldn't bother if whatever I was applying it to was already rusty.

It could well be this. My reckoning is still something to do with safety regulations - especially seeing as the vehicle is on German plates and they love a good rulebook! As an example, the MSA have the following rule on tow points: 19.1.3. There must be substantial towing eyes securely fixed to the main structure of the vehicle, front and rear, within the confines of the body to enable the vehicle to be moved. Cars of periods A to F and single seater racing cars are exempt from this requirement subject to a suitable towing point being clearly identified. Towing eyes must have a minimum internal diameter of 60mm. Towing eyes/towing points should be painted a contrasting bright colour (dayglo red, orange or yellow).

Would they not be painted to stand out so on a demo/photoshoot day, anyone unfamiliar with the vehicle can attach a tow without any excuse for ripping a bumper etc from the vehicle?

Am I reading that correctly? Five year & Unlimited mileage warranty for UK/EU/ME/ANZ? I would say that is a bold move for a vehicle they are hoping will be used extensively as a utility vehicle on and off road. I'm imagining lots of towing and abuse!

I had wondered about the fitting of the sleeve. I watched a YouTube video which showed an applicator like the one pictured above - but no mention of it coming with the sleeve. I presumed I would have to find something on the scrap pile to do the job, but your idea of modification makes sense too. Thanks for your help.

Thanks David. I think I am going to try it out, I’ll report back and update this thread.

I'm asking here instead of in the Series area because: a.) The question is primarily about a consumable, not a LR part b.) Not everyone peruses the Series area! I have two seal lands which are damaged, the flanges for the front and rear output shaft on my transfer box. Replacement parts run to around £260 (on top of £1k in gearbox parts, ouch), and I don't want to reuse them in their current state as I think they are going to leak and/or eat seals. I have never used Speedisleeves but I have read on here that they are a good solution to this type of problem. Can somebody with experience using them tell me if this would be the case here? Pictures of the damage below: I would rather spend some of the £260 savings on a decent set of digital verniers to measure the shaft diameter in order to get the right Speedisleeve.

At least you lot can go for a ride out in yours...

How strange, I guess these things can happen. Glad you got it sorted, and it’s a reminder to trust in your work when you know you fitted them correctly!

I have the 3/8 normal sized ratchet. I got it on a whim when I bought my fuel 1/2 impact gun and right angle die grinder. I didn't use it for ages and started to think it was a waste of money but as soon as you start picking it up instead of a normal ratchet you end up using it all the time! It's a bit like what we say about telehandlers on the farm here - before you had them you didn't think they were all that, now you have one you don't know how you managed without!

Did you sort this problem? Just browsing the forums and came across this unanswered query.

Knowing what I know now... no chance!

I'm back in the workshop today and cleaning up parts. I thought I would upload this picture while I eat my lunch. It seems that, just like Snagger's, my factory recon box has had it's serial number crudely removed. They kindly stamped the suffix (which I now know to be correct) underneath. This thread could have been avoided had I washed the top cover first! Anyhow, at least I know for definite what I have.

You are correct, mine has just a bronze bush inside the reverse idler gear. Hopefully I won’t discover any more big question marks as I strip the transfer box!

Thanks @Snagger, I appreciate the time you have put into writing that up for me. It explains everything very concisely. I always thought that gearboxes were too complex for me to work on or understand - however the theory of them is quite simple in a way. I imagine designing them is anything but simple though! Once again, thanks for taking the time to help me out - time is a valuable commodity. I owe you a drink, although Dubai is a bit of a stretch for me. Anyhow, back to identifying the suffix of my box. I washed the casing today in pursuit of a stamped serial number. All I found were some random stamps who's meaning is known only by the chap at Solihull who placed them there - unless anyone can tell me differently! According to Syncro Gearboxes' website; the layshaft which needs replacing could be an A, B or C & D. I will quote some of their text below: Suffix A Layshaft - Teeth: 27, 22, 13, 16. Used with 31 tooth 1st/2nd Hub and sleeve. Suffix B Layshaft - Teeth: 27, 22, 13, 16. Used with 30 tooth 1st/2nd Hub ad sleeve, and 35 tooth 1st speed gear. Suffix C & D Layshaft - Teeth: 27, 22, 13, 14. Used with 30 tooth 1st/2nd Hub & Sleeve, and 31 or 32 tooth 1st gear. The teeth on my layshaft are 27, 22, 13, 16. This indicates Suffix A or B. My 1st/2nd hub and sleeve has 31 teeth. This indicates a Suffix A gearbox. So there we are, I believe that mystery is solved: my gearbox is a Suffix A.

That makes sense. I think I need to watch a video of how the gearbox and transfer box actually work. I can't tell by looking at it, and the book doesn't tell you how it works - only what you should expect to be there.

I see, thanks for that. It's a little frustrating but the constant gear which is damaged is only available as the full unit with the pinion shaft as well. Any idea what the reason for this is?

I'm having a little difficulty identifying the suffix of my Series 3 gearbox. It is a 1976 ex MOD vehicle which had a Sherpa van engine in when I bought it. I have stripped the gearbox but cannot find the stamped serial number anywhere on either the gearbox or transfer box casing. I have cleaned most of the carp off but haven't washed them in the dishwasher yet, I need my mother-in-law to go out for the day... The only place I can see a serial number is on this conveniently located plate on the bellhousing: I am cautiously thinking yes, as the part number 576730R is for a recon four speed box. It states B05403 as the serial, so this would be a B suffix box. I have been following Gazzars useful thread on disassembly, and using the workshop manual also. I am a little confused around a part on the mainshaft. On the mainshaft front end, between the third speed gear and second speed gear, there is a bronze bush. Mine is pictured below. The workshop manual also references this, but calls it a distance piece - however it is clearly one single part! I cannot find this part in the parts book. There is reference to two bushes which look like a bit like it, but in two parts: FRC4076 and FRC4077. I can see on Syncro Gearboxes website they claim a two piece or one piece is the same outcome - can anybody please confirm this is definitely the case? Apologies if I am being overly cautious - I have never rebuilt a gearbox before and would quite like to make a decent job of it. Thanks in advance.

Great, thanks all for your input!

These are uj shafts with stub axles of unknown origin! It’s a ‘76 so they are the ‘wrong’ stub axles anyway. so the bronze bush wouldn’t fit into these stub axles anyway?

Presumably the O-ring on the end of the drive flange is supposed to create a seal with the hub cone but doesn’t do a very good job, hence the need for rtv sealant? thanks everyone for the input, long may the seal Vs no seal argument continue! I’m glad I asked anyway, but I do wonder why the previous owner omitted the bronze bushes.

As per the title: I am rebuilding the front axle on my 1976 Series III 109. The vehicle appears to be modified as it has the later hubs and stub axles, I believe. I think the stub axle should have a seal FRC3099 and a bronze bush FRC2928 - neither of which were present at disassembly. I did a bit of internet searching but could only find the discussion with regards to Defenders with one-shot grease in the swivels, and the ongoing discussion of leaving the seal and bush out to promote a flow of oil between the swivel and hub? Presumably this is why neither were fitted by the previous owner. Opinions welcome!

Presumably they won't. I suspect they will leave the policing of it down to whomever supplies the red diesel; i.e. your local fuel company who used to fill the tank up at the builders yard will say 'no, you are not a farmer' but will continue to fill diesel tanks on farms up with red. I mean, what's stopping anyone running on red diesel on the road at the moment? How frequently have you been pulled over in the past and had your tank dipped? It seems like more dream world legislation which is going to prove next to impossible to enforce.

Thanks chaps, very helpful. Yeah, '100' was a typo and should have read '110', apologies. A replacement diff pan and stiffening plate still runs to less than the ARB version but thanks @Tobias, they do look nice though! @David Sparkes nobody seems sure what the stiffening plate does, but I am loathed to leave it off and then find out the hard way that it does something to help keep all the oil inside the diff!