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Happyoldgit

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Posts posted by Happyoldgit

  1. Personally I would think it more likely to be whoever assembled the shafts, in whatever in house or outside manufacturing plant, not doing their job properly or that the amount of lubricant specified was not sufficient. The fact that failures were random leads me to suspect the former but who knows.

  2. 2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    An odd conclusion, I doubt any manufacturer WANTS to create extra warranty work / failures, surely more likely the Puma gearbox design team thought it was good enough without extra lubrication (maybe the old hands had all left by then?), and it's not as if they don't do millions of miles of testing on stuff like this. Marginal perhaps, but a lot of reasonably smart folks must've thought it was good enough to sign it off.

     

    Essentially there is nothing wrong with the gearbox to transfer box adapter housing and shaft within. The issue was more one of lack of or inadequate lubricant being applied to the splines of the middle joint of some of the shafts on assembly.

  3. 7 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

    Agreed. Total disregard for their own experience. 

    Yep, very shoddy and made worse by the denial that there was an issue despite all the component failures. My personal feeling is by that stage they had lost interest in the model other than a "heritage" marketing hook for the new stuff.

    • Like 1
  4. One personally think of the biggest issues with the Puma models is sudden failure of the splines on the intermediate shaft in the adapter between gearbox and transfer box which causes sudden loss of drive. The issue is simply down to spline wear due to lack of lubrication of the joint on assembly. I owned several Puma's, all bought new, and while none suffered failure of the shaft I read enough tales of woe on Def2 etc to be aware of the issue. With the earliest Puma's now being fifteen years old and the youngest seven, the potential issue with the shaft is well enough known for the shaft to be removed and the joint lubricated  and / or mods carried out to allow lubrication of the shaft in situ. 

     

    • Like 1
  5. On a different tack I need to get some heat wrap of some sort to insulate the fuel pipes on the '43 Jeep. It's all standard but every wartime Jeep I've had has has issues with modern fuel vapour using to a greater or lesser extent. The steel pipe runs from the tank under the driver's seat up to a standard big bowl filter on the right side of the bulkhead. From there it runs down to a flexible connection between chassis and engine, over to the engine, around the front of the block to the fuel pump on the left of the block fairly close to the manifold's. From the pump the steel pipe runs up to the Carter carburettor. The whole lot gets hot so in summer fuel vapourisation and vapour locks can be an issue. Obviously I can reroute the pipework but I prefer to keep original vehicles as original as possible. So some kind of unobtrusive insulation wrap would be good. I think some of the French M201's (licence built Jeeps) had an insulation for the engine bay pipes ...but fitting postwar Hotchkiss bits goes against the grain a bit.  

  6. Crikey, that photo of Elsa on the roof of George Adamson's Series One brings back memories, I think I still have my original  hardback copies of Born Free and Forever Free tucked away up in the loft. I always fancied meeting and having a chat with Adamson.

    Interesting thread.

    • Like 4
  7. 5 hours ago, smallfry said:

    That timber frame is  what they call a "Buck". Its a pattern to form all the panels, which must touch all over to get a smooth and consistent shape. It is not used on the finished vehicle. This is how they make all low volume aluminium bodied cars,  like AC Cobras etc.

    If you look at the other pics you can see the aircraft type frames that the finished panels are fixed to.

    Very nicely done and finished, but so much wasted space, and so much money. It has a novelty value, but is not at all attractive IMO, and whats with the dash ? Looks like its been painted with Hammerite !

    Even with my new Euromillions jackpot, I still wouldnt pay that !

    Indeed but I was referring to the interior lining not the buck.

    I admire the craftsmanship but like you I wouldn't buy it ... congratulations on your win BTW 😁

  8. I'm glad I'm not the only one who has problems. The diesel industrial mower that I used to run was often plagued with punctures too. The two ride on's I have now aren't tiddly domestic jobs, I think one has a 40" deck, the other may be 48" so medium size jobs. The out front deck one has poxy little 14x5.50 - 6 tubeless on the back which are only 2 ply. I put another new tube in it yesterday but it won't be long before that too will require patching or replacing.

    My topper tyre is made up of sections of reinforced rubber set on edge into the rim - imagine a giant abrasive flapwheel but without the abrasive. It's used beside hawthorn, blackthorn and other thorny, prickly hedges that have been flailed the arrangement works well. Other implement tyres do ok but they are generally full of sealant and often travel a bit faster than the lawn mowers. 

  9. On 7/14/2022 at 12:34 PM, Simon Smith said:

    What sealant do you use? We install Linseal in the workshop, and find it very successful. Most customers who buy a bottle and find it doesn't work simply haven't used enough of it. Obviously it can't fix cuts, sidewall damage or leaking beads, but works every time with thorns. It won't work in tubes either.

     

    Yep, Linseal OKO is the one we've used and plenty of it too. We've had success with it in other things but as above I reckon the mowers are just too slow to get the stuff distributed about quick enough.

  10. We have a fair amount of lawn grass here and our decent size ride on mowers suffer from frequent punctures, the cause is usually bits of hawthorn, blackthorn etc from our hedges that get missed from the tidy up after hedge cutting / flailing. We've tried different tyres, fitting tubes and filling them with loads of tyre sealant but none have been effective. You would think the tyre sealant would be the answer but I think the trouble is that the mowers don't go fast enough in use to disperse the sealant into the punctures quick enough. Basically I think the tyres are pretty rubbish, even the expensive ones.

    I've watched videos on YouTube showing people filling mower tyres with expanding foam but results seem mixed. Anyone here attempted something similar with successful outcomes? 

  11. Cough, cough, confession time....

    I still have not done mine yet. It's been one job after another recently and my trailer floor mojo has not been helped by the after effects of the Big C and chemo. That said I have managed to replace all the brake shoes, some bearings, cut off all the cable retainer clamshells off the backplates and weld in new ones, replace all the cables, replace a tyre, and renew all the lights on the thing. However since then it has sat there giving me the evil eye on a daily basis while I wince at the price of phenolic ply and the other alternatives and try to muster the enthusiasm to fork out the cash and  most of all the effort of getting the job done...

    I may even sell it before or after that anyway ....hmmmm.

  12. 23 hours ago, David Sparkes said:

    You will find that in the UK, 'rider control of a Horse' is not the same as driver control of a vehicle.

    Yes, do look at the BHS site, but you will find that in UK law a horse is accepted as NEVER being under full and precise control like a car is.
    The law recognises that horses do have minds of their own and will sometimes act independently of their rider wishes.

    When these instances occur there is no insurance cover, in that the insurance company will refuse your claim for any occurrence where the rider is still seated, or holding the reins if the horse is being led.
    As I say, visit the BHS site.

    If you get into any future verbal exchange with a horse rider I suggest that your first action is to put your phone on video, as I expect this will also record speech. I wouldn't hold the phone 'up' in an obvious manner, it is any threatening, aggressive, and abusive language you need to record, so hold the phone down by your side, perhaps facing the hose and rider. A visual image of the rider is the second priority.
    It is on the basis of this evidence that you can make a complaint to the Police, if you wish to do so. It is no good deciding to make a complaint 'after the incident' if you do not have any evidence, so collecting any evidence leaves both options open, not collecting any evidence cuts out any future choice.

    Regarding riding on the pavement, and any pedestrian cut though, this should be passed to the local highway authority, although a note to the local Parish Council is not a totally wasted effort. The HA should be aware of any 'conditions of use' regarding these public highways.

    Regards.

     

    Good advice.

    I think we've covered all the bases so will lock this now.

    • Like 3
  13. 3 hours ago, reb78 said:

    Cant imagine that would end well having read bits on their forums before...

    Same could apply to any forum or social media group. What we need to be mindful of is the usual 'them v us' echo chamber and filter bubbles.

  14. Speaking as a horse owner, driver, past rider and mindful that there are two sides and nuances to every incident, I would say that responsible horse folk would be insured for third party damage. 

    I would report the incident to the police and inform your insurance company.

    You might find it useful to  also consult the British Horse Society 

    https://www.bhs.org.uk/

    And post your queries  on somewhere like the Horse & Hound forum

    https://forums.horseandhound.co.uk/ 

     

     

     

     

     

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