Happyoldgit
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Posts posted by Happyoldgit
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48 minutes ago, reb78 said:
Thanks - I dont know what grade this current liner is. Used to be on a woodburner before I put the Rayburn in but I dont know its age. How do they fail?
Bits of liner come down when it is swept ...if not before.
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19 minutes ago, reb78 said:
Whats the lifespan of a liner out of interest and what are the reasons for replacing them? We have one lined chimney and other that isnt but will get that done this spring. I kinda figured that if the liner does not have a hole in it, it must be ok but are there other reasons for failure?
Depends on the grade of stainless the liner is made of. "They" reckon 316 is ten years minimum [burning wood only] but can last longer. 904 is recommended for multi fuel.
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Lots of sites on the internet with useful info. Particularly relevant to the UK [ok England-shire] is this one...
https://www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/do-i-need-an-air-vent-for-a-wood-burning-stove
On the subject of external vents...
"The air vent aperture required increases in size depending on the KW output of the stove (this being very approx. equivalent to a 50p piece for each KW – so a 5kw stove requires an area equivalent to 5x50p pieces).The exact figure is 550 square millimetres of vent hole per kw of stove.
A square hole 3cm x 2cm is 600 square millimetres. A 50p piece is 594 square millimetres.
In older properties “that are not deemed as particularly airtight” then the rule is the same but you get the first 5kw free. In other words a 5kw stove has no air vent requirements, whilst a 6kw requires one 50p sized hole, a 7kw two 50p sized holes (or equivalent) etc."
Trying to find a reliable HETAS registered installer seems particularly problematic around here at present as everyone and their granny is scrambling to get wood or multi fuel burners installed as they think they will save money on their energy bills. Consequently installers are raking it in at present and seem loathe to commit quotes to paper before starting the job. We have a new multi fuel stove / range on order to replace a Hunter Herald wood only stove so are looking to get the 10 year old 316 stainless liner replaced with a 904 as I want to use up a bunker load of anthracite left over from when the AGA was solid fuel prior to its conversion to 'electric.
As an aside, as the cost of living rises there appears to be a whole load of folks who believe they can tour the countryside chopping and hacking in places they have no right of access to in order to gather free wood that they can chuck on their stoves along with anything else burnable.-
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15 hours ago, reb78 said:
In theory i agree but the two unlined chimneys at my mums are such big voids theres kinda nowhere else for what ever smoke you produce to go. The other thing is that the more we seal our homes the harder it is for this old way of heating to draw!
Which is why they say woodburners above a certain output require an air brick in the same room to draw air from outside.
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More thinks...
Have you tried playing with the air-wash and other vents during the bad weather? Presumably you've checked the rope seals on the door/s?
A flap type flue damper might be worth a go if all else fails.
Sometimes damp weather can have an effect on draw.
Looks good BTW 🙂-
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Understood, I think. You want to bring it below the Ridgeline a tad and fab a bit of an additional shield?
I have a new woodturning range / stove thingy on order to replace the stove and liner we had fitted ten years ago. Prior to committing I spent months genning up on installs, reading umpteen threads in the various FB woodturner groups and discussing the job with half a dozen HETAS Reg installers who came round to survey and quote [none of who seem keen on providing written quotes]. What I've taken away from all this is that as soon as you start modifying what the HETAS fella has done and signed off it all gets a bit grey should any issues or problems arise. While it's possible to self install and then get the job signed off as compliant with the regs by a HETAS or Local Authority bod it can get tricky if you then start altering the system - once signed off.
I'd get the installer back and say sort it - after all it's what you paid them for.-
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Get the installer back, explain the issue and tell him / her to sort it. Presumably he / she is HETAS approved and signed the install off?
Failing that a spinning cap might help ...but get the installer back anyway! 😉-
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This morning I had to pop over to Attleborough so thought I would call in to take a look and have a chat about the Grenadier in what used to be Bussey's Ford showroom....
Sadly I could only view it from outside the showroom, despite the Ford Puma parked outside the lights were off, doors locked and not a soul to be seen. Subsequent digging in their somewhat convoluted website reveals that apparently Saturday viewing is by appointment only which is not very handy or enticing to those who are busy on weekdays.
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23 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
Sadly ten years is easily enough time for the original to rot out in some circumstances.
Yep. I suppose that's the result of the improved corrosion resistant materials JLR boasted about when I queried why the early Puma I bought new in 2007 had just a thin coat of black paint and no wax on the chassis.
I suppose
"Refurbished onto a Galvanised chassis with a plan for a long term relationship by its current owner.
Alas plans have changed.."
Is their way of saying the original chassis was like a pair of net curtains in places.
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I can't quite make out why you would want to rechassis a 2011 Puma unless the original was shot or it had been damaged...
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Can't tell from those images so best advice is take it to a auto paint supplier who ought to be able to colour match it.
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Unless it's oily that doesn't look like old school red oxide which is more matt / satin matt. That could be red Rust Oleum or similar.
Proper lead based red oxide is good stuff but like all coatings if the surface it's going on has active corrosion it will still fail. Favourite back in the day for priming before topcoat in another colour. -
Wishing members and visitors all the very best of health for the New Year.
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1 hour ago, Badger110 said:
Yeah i'm late too, so Happy new year instead.
In my defence I was on my honeymoon
Congratulations!
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Hopefully the OP will return to fill in a few more details...
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4 hours ago, forkrentfitter said:
if you want a giggle go in to busseys in attleborough, incompatence doesn,t come close, they have not bothered keeping me updated, they have a pre production model in the showroom, almost had to fight to even sit in it.
I've been past a few times and seen that in there but have not had time to stop yet but will do so as soon as.
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I'm learning a lot from this thread 👌
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If the transmission has been overhauled there will be more resistance there than if it were an older, well run in unit (even more so if the gear and transfer box have oil in them).
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Merry Christmas
&
Best Wishes for the New Year!
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9 hours ago, JohnnoK said:
I'd seriously consider donating an organ for one of them....
Lovely six pot lump, 4WD, big brakes, a bit prone to rot in the join above the cab, screen frame and rear doors but they could all be found or easily repaired. Substantial chassis and bumpers, few argued with it.-
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On 12/19/2022 at 11:40 AM, Daan said:
To echo the above, currently for sale on facebook for less than a decent willys jeep:
There's usually quite a few Jimmy's up for sale, in fact there are usually quite a number of tempting WW2 trucks up for grabs but as said before you need access to undercover storage. The size issue is why decent MB & GPW Jeeps and Dodge 1/2 & 3/4 ton wagons etc are so popular.
Edited to add photo of one of my previous toys. 1943 Dodge WC54. Not too big, not too small, a llovely old bus with bench seats in the back, four stretchers to kip on at shows etc if required, plentiful spares supply ....and the luxury of a heater!
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Now that's interesting as my lad was into his raspberry pi stuff. He is over here at Christmas so I will have a word....
Thanks for that.-
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We have a very infrequent [once a year or so] issue with the mains electrickery here that has so far eluded diagnosis. I want to be able to record the current draw on each individual phase coming into the property before the main fuse & meter over period of time. No problem for a manual clamp meter but I would ideally like to continually record and store the data over a given period [day /week etc] so that if the issue occurs at night the event is captured by the device.
Does anyone have recommendations for a reliable and economical clamp around the cable type device to enable me to do this on one phase at a time please? -
Yep, I can vouch for this. Worn half shaft, prop and other transmission splines, bearings past their prime, worn diffs, sticky or slack UJ's, transmission brake high spots, bushes etc can all add up to a huge amount of backlash. One notable old high miler SWB Series something-or-other I had back in the '70's had gigantic amounts of slop in the drivetrain, any minor engine pops and bangs would have the whole thing kangarooing alarmingly until the clutch was dipped and load taken off for a bit.
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Buying 2008 110 pick up
in International Forum
Posted
Post a photo of the steering wheel fitted and we can tell you if it's standard.
If the wheel arches are textured black plastic then you won't get a good [shiney] paint finish.