Happyoldgit
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Posts posted by Happyoldgit
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Easier and cheaper to create an invite only group on Facebook or WhatsApp.
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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Given how our 127 can lean, especially if you put the roof rack on, I shudder to think what that thing's like even if the overall CoG is lower than it looks, it's still a ruddy great pendulum!
When ours had the roof rack and rooftent on for the kids to kip in it used to heel over something Interesting.
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Looks like a pushchair
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7 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
I can't remember what the sizes here are but I know Chris tends to stock bigger than 8x4. Unusual if he's more expensive than others.
It should last, just hope you've treated the edges if / where you've cut it.
Yes any cut edges were sealed and painted.
I believe they had larger sheets available but the crossmembers are spaced for 4ft widths so that is what I stuck with.
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6 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
I don't know but I know the ply is over £100/sheet down this way. Aluminium / steel might be cheaper but slippery and best with something under anyway on a trailer like that to spread the load.
I used old scaffold boards with a 1/4" gap on mine but didn't need it to be "sealed".
I got it for just under a ton per sheet for 18mm. I considered scaffold boards but it's a 16ft trailer so it would have meant adding additional crossmembers. Hopefully what's on there will be equally up to the job as it is similar to what was fitted originally.
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8 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
How did you pick them up when you were bent over from paying?
You tell me what is cheap these days 🙄 -
In the end I opted for phenolic ply. Having stripped the old floor out we took a trip up to Economy Timber near Fakenham and picked up 4 sheets of 18mm 8x4.
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No, not a farm vehicle. New, well appointed 4x4 pickups can be had for less than half the price. None of the farmers, gamekeepers that I know would consider one. Land / estate owners would likely have a RR.
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All this self servicing and fixing of the vehicle of your choice is fine until, God forbid, illness strikes or the effects of old age set in. I spent years, no decades, doing all my own repairs and fixes on my / our daily drivers and usually enjoyed it but hated the stress of having to get something done as the vehicle was needed later that day or in the morning.
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39 minutes ago, reb78 said:
I'd never consider gas or oil for the Rayburn - hugely expensive as you say on either of those. Mine is replacing a log burner in the kitchen which would be burning fuel anyway in the winter. The log burner is only small and keeps the areas it links to by convection really warm but I figured the Rayburn will do that (sure it will burn a bit more), and the rest of the house and the hot water. It used to be at my mums house and did the job really well there. It will also do slow cooked stews/pot roast etc really well. It can be a pain to cook on but its a bit like a steam engine... you need to get it fired up in advance, but you do know there will always be a kettle on the boil regardless!
The AGA we inherited when we bought this place has been here since the early '50's and would happily tick over on a bucket of coke a day. We all enjoyed the thing both for cooking and the ability to boil a big kettle or saucepans of water. What was a chore was the coke dust that got everywhere and fumes especially when we opened the thing up for riddling and stoking last thing at night. When our local coalman eventually retired the AGA's cast barrel finally gave up too but I had already investigated the various electric conversions on the market and chose the one that got the most thumbs up from users. We now have the choice of using it like an ordinary cooker with two independent hotplates or to keep the oven on to warm up the whole thing so it acts as a big radiator which was one of the original ideas behind the AGA, Rayburn's in the first place. One up to temperature the thing can be turned down to a tickover to keep the whole thing warm and acting in the traditional way including being able to use the venerable laundry drier that has been hanging from pulleys in the ceiling since Adam was a lad. Old fashioned yes but it works.
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We have an old red brick and flint farmhouse in an isolated location so no mains gas and I flatly I refuse to have oil again. There is no wet heating and radiators instead we retained the night storage heaters that run off one of the two phase supplies during off-peak hours. The AGA used to be solid fuel [coke, wouldn't burn wood] but this meant running it through the summer which turned the kitchen and rooms off into a sauna so we had it converted to electric [runs off a dedicated 13a supply]. The house is somewhat quirky and we are keen to keep it this way. So many old properties have lost their character by having rooms knocked through and layouts changed. Most of the rooms retain their original fireplaces but we have a woodburner in the largest fireplace in what was the farm office but I'm waiting to look at a new model out that has an over and hotplate for use if and when we have a power cut. We have some land and a bit of woodland...
After purchase and before we moved in we had the leaky roof stripped and Norfolk reeds underneath removed [a thick layer of reeds under tiles was fairly common in old properties around here] and Celotex insulation was added between the joists. We were advised that is was not necessary to add anything between the rafters, the Celotex being considered enough and it would defeat the object of the new breathable membrane under the pantiles. The house faces due south so one half of the roof would be ok for solar panels but the wife and I really don't want to cover up the old clay pantiles. The rear roof is much larger in area and we are not so bothered about the look of that aspect but it faces due north ...hmmmm.
Can't do cavity wall insulation as the walls are solid brick and some flint walls with lime mortar. I don't want to change the character of the place by slapping insulation on the internal Waals as I foresee that potentially causing issues with the fabric of the building. There is a balance to be had, it's an old house [bits dating back to the 16th century] not a modern property so there are limits on the improvements that can be made while retaining its character. Nobody here wants to walk about in T shirt and shorts indoors during the winter, I'm one on the no CH, ice on the inside of the windows generations too. That said the wife spent years working in what to me seemed to be overheated offices and she would constantly complain about feeling cold when she got home, she has hardened up a fair bit now the majority of her time is spent working from home. If she needs to warm up she mucks out the horses or poo picks their fields 😄
Our electrickery supplier is Octopus with a capped price until the end of April. What to do - if anything?
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- Popular Post
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Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
May she rest in peace
Thank you Ma'am for your lifetime of service-
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
@Happyoldgit Have you seen one ?
In the flesh, no. I'm still immunocompromised as a result of the chemotherapy so am still advised to avoid mixing with the great unwashed so attending any marketing events etc has not been possible.
Have you seen one?
I have decided to wait until production models have seen some real world use at the hands of end users before making any decisions regarding purchasing. I confess my enthusiasm has waned as time has passed and circumstances in the wider world have changed.
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I use a Noco Genious 10. Good bit of kit.
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Not only that but current situations and projections mean there appears to be a degree of treading water or belt tightening on all levels. The world and outlook are somewhat removed from when the Grenadier was conceived.
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20 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
Nothing has really changed Steve - my 110 is going back in to the dealer in a few weeks to have the towbar swapped due to rust
Crazy isn't it.
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Happy to stand corrected re the 2.4 / 2.2 DPF. I would add that all external powder coated items were prone to having the finish peel revealing unprotected steel underneath that rapidly turned a natty shade of rust. JLR replaced things like side steps and mudflap brackets etc under warranty as a matter of course but as the replacement parts were equally badly finished it was an endless cycle. Windscreen frames peel and corrode as do bonnet and door hinges. The quality and finish of some components on what were +30k vehicles [at the time] were beyond the pale.
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Hmmmm, working entirely from memory I thought both 2.4 & 2.2 had DPF's but it would be easy to check.
As has been said the steel doors were introduced in the late stages of TD5 production, I recall at least one of the ones I had came with them. Don't discount TD5's, nice and smooth but I preferred the longer legs of the Puma's, others will disagree of course.
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I haven't read the entire thread but speaking as someone who bought both 2.4 & 2.2 Puma 110 XS Station Wagons and Utility Station Wagons new I would go for the 2.2 as I found them to be a little smoother, quieter and a bit more lively than the 2.4's. The heating systems are streets ahead of previous models [owned most of, if not all of them too] and the steel doors and bonnet help with noise levels and water sealing. With the last of the old Defenders being seven years old now you need to avoid anything that has been near salt water or used a lot on salted roads without regular cleaning. You might also want to consider the vehicle tax rates for the vehicles concerned too.
Puma Station Wagon rear seats are a bolt in affair and relatively heavy to shift and bulky to store. If used in conjunction with the standard JLR luggage cargo barrier they put rear passengers faces uncomfortably close to the wire mesh. Not a good place to be in the event of a collision.
Some early Puma's were waxoyled at JLR or dealers expense as some of us kicked up a stick when we found how poor the rustproofing was. They became wise to this after a while and started to declare that the components didn't need a wax coating as finishes were corrosion resistant as customers watched bumpers, side steps, rear crossmembers and other items peel and corrode.
For the prices being asked you really have to be very choosy. For what you are buying and the standard of construction most really are not worth the money.-
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2 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
I find this fascinating. I think the bloke would make a great member here, I'd have loved to see this build on a website that isn't trying to sell me tablets to lengthen things other than my Land Rover or to "try this one weird trick that they don't want you to know".
I digress. I'm really intrigued by the rear extension and how it was meant to ineract with the 110 HiCap trailer. It's also details like going to huge effort of cutting the floor out with mesh (good idea for so many reasons) but to then leave the filler neck in place. I just find it mind bogglnig, I really want to know more about the thought process.
Also, has it been established how that rear extension is held on? The chassis is galvanised and he specifically says there would be no more cutting/welding afterwards, so between that and the fact you can't see any chassis rails or cross member under the mesh, it seems be reliant on the anchoring to the body which might explain it's angle...
I'm way to into this.
I was thinking maybe he ought to be made aware of this thread....
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4 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
It's the barge from hell ! 👹
It could be improved with plenty of traditional narrow boat "roses and castles" paintings, some buckets painted in the same style on the balcony and maybe a line of washing hung front to back. -
Needs a tiller.
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4 hours ago, Maverik said:
I ran some dynabeads for about 2-3 years as I was struggling getting some wheels to balance. They where perfect, did there job and when I changed the tires last I kindly asked the garage to try recover them and I got them back in a Tupperware box, looking the same as when I put them in, no sign of wear or breakdown.
Quite impressed with them really in the end.
FYI - I installed them through the valve rather than them being installed with the tyre.
That's them, Dynabeads, for the life of me I couldn't think of the name of the ones we used in the 7.5 ton MAN fronts. I added then via the valve when it was at the 6 o'clock position having first removed the core. New tyres last year and they balanced fine so the beads were no longer needed.
Reproduction Prototype Land Rover
in International Forum
Posted
Eh? £500 for that complete shell as shown? Sort of a pseudo kit car then?
There is a fair amount of wartime Willys MB & Ford GPW Jeep stuff about, not surprising considering the numbers that were manufactured [not counting the postwar WOF / Hotchkiss M201's that look virtually identical and had a high proportion of interchangeable parts] so it would not be impossible to acquire a frame etc. There are plenty of repro parts available too, in fact WW2 Jeeps are some of the easiest 'classics' to keep on the road. Complete vehicles in good order have reached eye watering prices in the last ten to fifteen years though.
My 1943 MB will be staying intact thanks.