reb78
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Posts posted by reb78
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My bodge repair was meant to be temporary. It has done about 80k miles on that since with no ill effects.
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@vulcan bomber has sleeved one of my cases. The other, wasnt so bad but was still leaking - when it was off for another gearbox problem, I knocked the intermediate shaft out a little, replaced the o ring on the shaft and gave it a good coating of sealant, knocked back in and torqued up. It hasnt leaked since.
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15 minutes ago, Simon_CSK said:
I had a couple of good ones amongst my pile of bits.
Have now got the replacement back in, not too bad a job once it is stripped down.
First the bare frame, then the diff, the left wishbones and hub as one unit then the right side.
Just the brakes and the exhaust to go back on so hopefully complete before the weekend.
Gosh - you work fast! I have taken this long to just look at mine
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8 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:
Got the subframe on the deck. Not out yet because the rain came on but this is how bad it is
For some reason the picture is upside down even tried to rotate the original file but still came in upside down. Maybe a mod could sort this.
What a mess!
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16 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
@FridgeFreezer it's probably pot luck but I'd say I've had the opposite to you over the years. Only ever had one piston stick on a fixed caliper but almost always had to battle with sliding calipers when working on the brakes.
Not saying ones better than the other, my personal preference is fixed ones based purely on the fact I've had less issues with them.
I agree in that I have had more.issues with sliding calipers, but interestingly, the issue i seem to frequently have is seized pistons on sliding caliper designs. I have rarely (never actually) had issues with the sliding pins!
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10 hours ago, TSD said:
That is on my D3
I thought it might be which made me feel doubly better!
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16 minutes ago, TSD said:
(says the bloke who is 60k overdue for a cambelt because he can't be bothered!)
Makes me feel a bit better about being a little overdue on the d3!
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35 minutes ago, SPendrey said:
I guess the idea of a "quality brand" doesn't mean so much?
I think you are right. I expected more from an £85k new car!
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50 minutes ago, Simon_CSK said:
I also have a 2007 with 80k and it needs the inner and outer cills welded. Has just had a new front diff and a new front sub frame.
I'm annoyed I bought mine but feel completely stuck with it to be honest. The D3 of the same era is much better built.
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7 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:
Late 2005 and just under 180k. Nice looking car but both sub frames have tin worm. The back worse than the front.
I have a 2007. I cannot beleive how bad they are for rust given the originlal purchase price etc. You would think the components should have been much better quality. I'd love to move mine on but the arches need attention before i can do that now.
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2 hours ago, Peaklander said:
You come here for advice and that’s what I am offering.
I am suggesting that your request for help on this thread and your previous unresolved alarm thread are connected. As @Bowie69 also says, get the 10AS sorted and then the puddle lights are simple.
Just give up Peaklander. Its not worth worrying about.
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57 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Quite likely, normally autobox levels are done when running and in neutral, but check the manual.
And in these later autos, they often need to be at certain temps too.
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7 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
My local engine re-builder has a crack filling process for alloy heads and blocks that uses a liquid chemical metal and pressure to fill cracks. They developed it for the top fuel engines they build, but found it was also very good for TD5's
However those cracks look small enough to simply fill with carbon during use
Thats interesting as many declare the 200 heads scrap once they see those cracks between the valves. I kept mine.
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3 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Absolutely, I've run a worse one than that for several years including heavy towing.
Mike
Same - the last one i removed was a lot worse but it wasn't due to those cracks that my HG went. Engine was running perfectly. I would happily fit the head in alfamans pictures.
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15 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
I run a 200Tdi. I have one spare engine. When it's gone, I'll either fit a V8 (which I also have) or fit an alternative diesel
Same, plus a couple of good spare heads. Tbh - I too one off with cracks between the valves and think they were incidental findings when the HG went so would be tempted to put that head back on if I was desparate.
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I suggest you speak to Dave directly. Always quick to reply to email and plenty of people there to answer the phone.
He is also on here.
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9 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
I bought mine form Nick at Steg's supplies. Not being rude to Vulcan Bomber, but I know Nick's work and there are a lot of sub par pins and rings out there and I wanted to be sure.
The change in the pump cam timing is dark magic. It makes a big difference to some things and a small difference to a lot of things.
I don't run an aftermarket boost pin as I don't see the need. Neither do I see the need (or science) to run a twin inlet. I run 300 tdi nozzles on 200 injectors, but the flow is the same. Standard 200 nozzles would fuel 170+bhp easily, but are difficult to get.... I've polished the exhaust outlets and manifolds. Turbo is set to 1bar, and there is a cheap replacement intercooler fitted, that's a little bigger and flows better.
Pre ring I was getting 35-38 to the gallon (measured). Post ring, I'm getting a regular 36 mpg on the dot. Towing is easier. There is more 'off boost fuelling'. I've noticed more exhaust 'smoke' but it's burnt diesel, not unburnt (which I never had a problem with). The engine is quieter - noticeably so. Gearchanges are smoother ( I tend to double declutch down the box, and even that is easier)
I'm in the process of replacing the Disco, for a non Land Rover. I'll be sad to see her go, but she will be given, rather than sold, to someone who knows here well and will love her as much as I do. My replacement vehicle (if all goes well) will be powered by an OM605, thus opening up a whole new world of diesel fun
VB's work is very good too. I can vouch for that. He rebuilt Ralphs overdrive if folk want other opinions to mine.
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5 hours ago, rusty_wingnut said:
Not to derail the thread, but who does decent rebuilt units? 110 is starting to whine....
Pretty simple units to rebuild DIY...
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3 hours ago, Mutley said:
@Snagger not seen any mention of Borg & Beck in my search and as for LOF!?! The price kills that idea! If Valeo lasts half as long as the original, it will see me out!?!....The HD Fork kit contains what is shown in the photo, I guess the Brass Ring is the Spigot Bush you mentioned?
While it's all coming out I have a leaking CRANK SEAL that might as well be done, any advice or tips on which bits to get or not get???.....
Going with Corteco Seals as always but what about the rear seal LUF100430 DOES this need to be a GENUINE part or will the Britpart OE suffice??? Any other bits for this task???
Tbh, if the rear seal isnt leaking, I would leave it. Do you mean front or rear crank seal is leaking ?
If rear, genuine.
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Valeo are good. Had a disaster with a borg and beck where the centre of the friction plate fell apart, I wasnt impressed. Never seen the need to spend more than valeo cost.
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Bristol Transmissions. Built me a stumpy R380 from them at a very reasonable price and its been spot on.
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I hate my nanocom. Its a shame GAP dont cover the TD5. When nanocom decides it wont connect to the D2 ten times in a row, i go grab the hawkeye (also discontinued) from the range rover and it connects first time and does the job. I only bought the hawkeye as it was cheaper than getting the cable and licence to upgrade the nanocom for the RR (and since I hated the nanocom anyway I was happy enough to get the hawkeye) .
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5 hours ago, Snagger said:
Yep, the complete boxes, including the manual steering box as used on MoD models, are all interchangeable, but the internal parts are very unlikely to be so.
Sorry - I misunderstood you. Yes, I agree - I suspect very different parts internally. The boxes are different shapes completely so I cant see there being common parts in there really.
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1993 Defender 110 Station Wagon
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'd check with Beaumonts but suspect they will say ATF. A decent ATF isnt expensive. In my opinion you are best off using it and upping the service intervals as a change is quick, easy and cheap. Leaving it forever, as people tend to do with transmission oils, does the damage.
If ever needed, Bristol Transmissions built me a stumpy R380 for under £1000 and happily took an LT77 in exchange. Its been spot on.