paulnb57

Build a rolling chassis, re the bodywork, start from the tub forwards, the tub locates on the crossmember, everything else is slotted or can be spaced with washers for adjustment.......

I feel your pain, my sweep is a disaster, I have 300 motor on td5 bulkhead, td5 wiperboxes, td5 gear in the motor, wipers are nowhere near parallel to the screen bottom when parked and dont wipe to the edge of the screen.........bloody things, I reckon this summer will see a change to all 300 with a spacer tube or modded td5 wheelbox to adapt the 300 wiperboxes, they frustrate the hell out of me! and as you know, they clunk!...... Paul

My local indepenent gave me a letter stating engine number, fuel etc and it was changed no problem.....

Known as Nene Underhand in some circles, I bought a 90 truck cab from them a few years ago which as part of the deal comverted to soft top, they fitted a military roll hoop/upper seat belt mount with Rivnuts!.........

I wouldn't expect it to turn over slowly if it was the ign switch, The ign switch supplies 12v to the starter solenoid (big relay) the solenoid supplies the major amperage to turn the motor.....hence my though it could be poor connections on the motor/battery/earth.......although I could be wrong!..... Paul

Yes, it could ge the starter, however it could also be dirty/corroded connections on the starter/battery, so you could clean em up and Vaseline them, could avoid replacing a good starter motor...... Paul Edit, also check the big earth leads that go from battery to chassis and chassis to engine, clean em and Vaseline em!.....

Label ALL the wiring connections (or photograph them) if you remove the clocks etc, DO NOT rely on memory, ask me how I know Its all pretty straightforward really..... Paul

The claimed mod for the 1-2 shift on mine is terrible, especially when cold, but it baulks all the time. When cold no matter if I change at low revs or high, double declutch, pause in between its apaling. Often judder away in second.......anyroadup, I will have a look at the clutch pedal adjustment, you never know it could be that simple..... Paul

Got to be worth looking, I just dont know how? Paul

Folks, Can I get a new R380, not recon, box?I currently have an Ashcroft recon which is a real disappointment especially from first to second, even after spending another £35 on the special oil that LR and Ashcroft recommend. Ashcroft will replace the one I have, but of course I have to pay the labour to change it.....so I might as well bite the bullet and buy a new not recon one.then sell on the Ashcroft replacement.....so who does them? I'm struggling with Google!.... Paul

Thanks for that, me too! Paul

Oh yes, Im a retard! Let me know of they are genuine please....they appear to include the too hats too... Paul

I think I at £15 a pair, will probably be cream cheese! But you pays your money.......the wheelboxes are a bit of a drama to replace so I only want to do it once.......first time round it was a bare bulkhead.....

Try here, I have had nothing but good things from this company, put in the part number and you get a choice of supplier, so you can make an informed decision and not just hope not to get the dreaded blue box......genuine Land Rover part number PRC8495 is £22.98 plus vat/mail from the above, there are 5 choices of wheelbox, Britpart, Britpart OEM, Allmakes, Bearmach and Genuine LR..... The difference between Britpart and Britpat OEM is the straight Britart item is not necessarily to OEM spec and probably made of cheese or similar, OEM should be to the same satndard of material and quality as the genuine item, just not in LR packaging......... Good Luck! Paul Oops nearly forgot the link! http://www.lrdirect.com/PRC8495-Wiper-Motor-Wheel-Box-S3-90-110/?sfi=prc8495

Thanks for the link, I may eventually alter mine back to satndard wheel boxes using the td5 ones as shown in the link to bush the bulkhead holes, the td5 wheel boxes are not vey robust compared to the earlier all metal ones...... Keep us informed please, needforspeed! Paul

I think the tube that connects the 2 wheelboxes is probably a bit loose and moving with the inner cable, my wheelboxes are mounted upside down to normal so that the vent levers dont foul on the tube. I am pretty sure that my clunk is just the linkage changing direction theres very little soundproofing in there so is noticable without the engine running, so I will live with it......I wouldnt be surprised if they all did it, I seem to remember my old V8 90 being noticable, but that didnt clatter like a tdi....... Paul

I managed to restrain from swearing somehow! I hate rattles and squeaks and always try to find and resolve them! Madness with a 90 really! Drives the pink one mad when I'm asking is it at the front or the back, trying to pinpoint where it is, currently the catflap rear door rattles on its hinge pin on a decent pothole, the roof lining has to come out to sort it, I will probaly make some nylon hinge pins or a nylon bush if there is room, so its not metal on metal....... Keeps me off the streets!.....

Mmmmmm, looks like I owe you an apology, mine clunks! Never heard it over the general Defender clatter……... http://vid260.photobucket.com/albums/ii21/paulnb57/IMG_1571_zpsdqh2olky.mp4 Looks like I have an issue either the wiper rack tube or the washer tube is moving with the wipers, oh well the dash top needs to come off to reroute the washer tubing anyway……..

Just for reference heres where I asked how to do it, does your 140 degree sweep gear match the part number in the reply to my question? http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=100899 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81135 Paul

It's a proper mystery! I'm not sure of the solution, but I'll try mine without the engine running tomorrow and see if there is any noise, can't imagine there will be cos it would do my crust!

Mine is a 1993 2.5 petrol 90 (yes a very late petrol 90) anyroad up, I rebuilt it as a 300tdi on new chassis and td5 bulkhead, which meant using td5 wiper boxes, I fitted the different wheel into the original motor with no issues and the sweep is correct with no clunking, I also used a Genuine part gear wheel. Not sure what's going on with yours, it should be a straight swap........can you try a different motor? Paul

Don't the lights have to work for the MOT?

I managed to find a good used one when I mislaid mine during the rebuild, I had no luck finding a pattern part, I guess there is not enough demand...

Ive said this about a million times on various fora, if your truck is its original colour, your main stealer can cross reference the paint code from the vehicle VIN.....

I suppose the only downside is that it only works at home, or where there is access to a mains supply, so you could be toasty going to work, but cold coming back