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David_LLAMA4x4

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Everything posted by David_LLAMA4x4

  1. I will have a look - I assume it is just a tyre inflator and a hose with an appropriate adaptor for the compressor.... I will report back David
  2. That is per axle!! Which makes the £50+vat from ARB twice as painful David
  3. That is the price you can buy one from me for David
  4. Sorry for this as it will I am sure be seen by some as an advert / spam / crime / etc. BUT How much? I am referring to the ARB heavy duty airline kit that seems to be £49.50 + vat I have just finished adding up the cost of all the bits to make one of these kits using stainless braid hose and it is way cheaper than the manky big black rubber thing available. A whole kit including the little fitting to go onto the ARB fitting in the diff case, the same length of hose and a converter back to 5mm push-in pipe at the chassis end along with a mounting bracket and self tapping bolt ( so basically everything you get in the ARB one ) works out to £35+vat That saves £17 and you are buying what could be described as a better quality kit David
  5. It does indeed show that the damper is working properly but it in the application that there is a problem.... I only know three people who ever fitted them and they all hated them and took them straight off!! The option of tightening the swivels by knocking a shim out was also thrown out as bloody stupid - the preload on the swivel is ther for a reason and that reason is not to prevent an incorrect application of a damper making you turn left! David
  6. The de Carbon one you have is supposed to extend BUT unless you have a second damper working against it then it is a bad idea! It will tend to turn the steering to left lock all the time - the answers from the old 'Orange Shop' was to knock a shim out of the swivel to tighten it up!!!!! The parent company of Rough Country ( the shocks I import ) are leading producers of OEM and after market steering dampers and when I asked about a gas one the slow Southern voice reckoned they 'were dumb'. The only gas steering they make are fitting in pairs with one pushing from either side - this has the effect of 2 uprated gas dampers without the turning force on the steering... if fitted in singles then they reaally should not be self-extending..... Hope that answerrs your question David
  7. Perfect, many thanks... How bizarre! If you ebay.pt you end up in Australia!!! Does Portugal not use ebay I wonder?? David
  8. What is the suffix for a Portuguese website.....? I am trying to find www.ebay.( whatever Portugal is ) and am not getting very far. Looked at Spaon and France but want to look in Portugal for some bits ( Umm Alter parts ) as there is the home of the ugly trucks!! Any help appreciated David
  9. A bit of both I think... it does get in the way of suspension bits but he reckons it is very vunerable there and would like it in the engine bay with all the rest of the 'engine stuff'.... david
  10. I'm coming round to a new plan that compromises the casts of doing it properly with at least being a job you could sell without too many fears.... Simply miss out the filter at the rear and hjoin the low pressure pump out / pump in pipes together. Then use a single high pressure filter in the engine bay. Simple to install, far fewer pipes hoing backwards and forwards and only a few connectors at £3 each and a filter for £60 with replaceable elements at £ 4 each. Downside is that it loses the original folter and its ready availability and means the high pressure side of the pump is only protected by a gauze in the tank rather than a proper fuel filter..... David
  11. The problem lies with the in-tank pump and the low / high pressure of the filter / feed pipes..... I could do the job very neatly and easilt with all new hoses and remote filter etc. but at stupid expense ( hundreds of £'s ! ) Otherwise it is going to be messy needing 3 hoses + 1 return pipe going all the way to the front and back. The other option is to bypass the filter at the rear and use a very high pressure filter at the front but this is part of the silly expense, I just wondered whether the people who haave moved their tank have left the filter next to it or what they have done to shorten / extend any of the plastic hoses.... David
  12. A good customer has asked me to come up with a nice kit to relocate the TD5 fuel filter from the dumb-ass place in the rear wheelarch to the engine bay.... Now I know some people have moved their filters / tanks and I also know some are having problems with splitting pipes and leaking joins etc. The nice way would be to make up whole new hoses but they have those crappy puch-clip unions rather than a proper thread which makes this harder. So the question is: How did you move yours and did it work properly and have you got any pics????? David
  13. Right on the filter head but miles away on the filter itself Plus a little bit of internal machining and welding... David
  14. Should be 1/8"npt... the RedTop had the bigger 1/4"npt but as long as this is a direct copy ( or rebadged ) Facet it will be 1/8". Depending on what size and type of hose you want to go into it with I have several different adaptors on the shelf if you are struggling. David
  15. Very easy to put a T into the return port with a blanking cap over the one branch that could be used as a drain tap.... The vacuum thing would be rather nifty - like the old air filters on diesels used to have.... At £100 they are not cheap but they are a hell of a lot cheaper than keep buying pumps and boxes David
  16. I must agmit I wished they could have worked out cheaper but when you see how much people are charging ( even on Eblag ) for header tanks and swirl pots that are effecctively just an empty box ( £75-90!! ) then I reckon they are about right. It would be nice if they could be cheaper but the 'Proof Reader' would moan if I started selling things at a loss David
  17. Typos put right - thankyou for pointing them out. Yet more pressure mounts on the proof reader to resign! Though she reckons if I typed better her job would be easier! David
  18. Thankyou - typo now corrected. If it was not for the fact I have to live with her on a daily basis I would sack my proof reader! David
  19. As those of you on this Forum who I talk to away from the computer ( not so much time to post these days ) will know I have been threatening to make these PAS reservoirs with a built in spin-on filter for about 18 months.... and now I have finally finished them!!! The idea was simply for a way of filtering all the bits of metal out of the PAS fluid so that they didn't just keep circulating and killing the seals. These are the bits that give your PAS fluid that lovely metallic red colour which should actually be a see-through red colour. It had to be simple, neat and easy to clean / change. The easiest way was to simply pit an inline filter into the system but this was always going to be a row as to where to install it. So and integral reservoir / filter thing was the answer. Anyway they are now finished. Look at the pics of them on the Hydro assist page of my website. David
  20. The vunerable question will depend on protection and location so I ca't give a definitive answer. The 'spongy' argument is one I can answer now and is one that raises its silly, little head ( no personal attack on yourself for bringing it up ) in the Land Rover world all the time!! The answer is NO IT WILL NOT GIVE A SPONGY PEDAL!!!! ignoring the boring facts which unless you are familiar with what an expansion rate of a hudraulic hose means in the real world ( just another list of statistics) the best answer to thgis is anecdotal... Would a British / Euro touring car team use braid all the way through the car if it made their brakes less than they could be? Would a WRC team ( not to mention club / national teamsd ) do it if it reduced the brakes?? The answer is of course they wouldn't! I went through this argument in great detail with a top UK ( and abroad ) Comp Safari driver who could not get a good pedal on a Disco II running gear - he had got braid throughout and one of the all-knowing Land Rover types assured him it was the braid giving the problem. Several certificates and letters from the manufacturer of the actual hose ( rather than hose assembly ) proved on paper what we already knew. The sponge was somewhere else and not in the hose ( off the top of my head the expansion rate is something like 0.1 of 1% ar a few thousand psi !! We found the problem - the Disco II calipers were actually flexing ( the casting itself ) - a pair of Wilwood calipers later and the pedal was great!! Sorry to rant on about this one but I get it every time from the Land Rover woeld - rally, circuit,track, motorbike, rod, custom etc. al; just accept the fact that it works without trying to find faults that are simply not there David
  21. I've just bought one in the States for $42 £30!!!!! $8.99 at an electrical superstore for a 120 / 220 voltage converter to charge it up. About $10 postage to get it all to a friend's house and he is sending it over for me - it will fly over with my next Rough Country delivery ( next week ) so the shipping across the pond will come to about £4.50 It is I am sure going to be crappy but for that money just to use as a nut runner once they are cracked open with a breaker bar it has got to be worth it. 18v / 150 Ft Lbs torque / 1 hour charge. Much better ones are available for about £70 and sSnap On can be found for about £220 - once again proving that something happens to freight on its way into Britain that costs a lot! Can';t believe the last Govt can raise that much revenue and still spend a few billion more than they have!!! David
  22. No problem at all supplying the fittings as in the pic or better still I could use a swage on one and make up the hoses for you.... Straight from the caliper to the chassis is an obvious modification with many advantges - the best one being the facility to just swing the caliper out of the way to mess with the hub / bearing / disc etc. The next step would be to go like the hoses I supply Tomcat for their works cars - they go chassis to caliper in all 4 corners moving the T piece up to the chassis. That means that all 4 corners, which are the only place a hose is likely to get damaged are the same and so one spare in the toolbox will reapir any corner. Just make sure your caliper has a spot-faced area around the inlet hole so ther is something for the copper washers to seal against... Many thanks David
  23. I would say the Jeep parts are twice the price of the LR ones if you live in the UK. I wonder whether some of the problem has come from the fact that LR owners want the stuff so cheap that the only way a supplier can drop to the prices the customer wants is to source and then sell on poor quality parts. Perhaps if LR owners paid as much as Jeep / Nissan / Audi / Kawasaki /etc. for their parts the quality might be better I think the 'paying twice' sums up the LR world more than 'paying twice as much' David
  24. No harm in checking at all and I never mind being asked the question as it lets me blurt on about standards and pressure tests of all the hoses i sell etc... It just interests me that it is the LR world that feel the need to check up - others seem to automatically assume they will get the right parts... David
  25. Hello Not often I find the time to add to the Forum these days but I have 10 mins and another example of a bit of a situation..... Are LR owners so used to being sold shi*tty parts that they automatically assume all parts must be that way? I have just has an email enquiry for brake hoses ( not for a LR ) from a LR owner.... and it raises the same fear about stainless steel brake hoses I get several times a week but only from LR owners. The point in question is always about custom made hoses and the type of fitting they have ie. swaged on or olive / nut type. Wht do all LR owners automatically assume they will have the crappy ( not actually so IMHO ) olive type? Why do Suzuki, Jeep, Nissan, Audi, Westfield, Kawasaki, etc. owners all assume they will come with nice swaged on ends and not even consider the other type unless they actually ask if it possible to have them that way? By defalut I always use the swaged on ends and have done for years and years and years. It is a noticeable trend ( 90% accurate ) so why do the LR owners always fear they are going to get a lesser product? - I fear it nmay well come back to the point that so much LR stuff on the market is simply carp that doesn't work properly that they assume that this is all they can expect....... Any thoughts? David
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