David_LLAMA4x4

Very cheap and simple to add though drilling / tapping the bellhousing is the easiest way to do it and not everyone wants to / can do that. As long as the water is clean ( ish ) and the engine keeps running then centrifugal force tends to keep the clutch clean... David

In this case no. The post was on topic, mid topic and inkeeping with previous posts and informative. Had this post come from a third party if would have been welcome and described as a 'useful link'. That third party could so easily have been me under a pseudonym from a second pooter or a friendle 'stooge' doing my dirty work - that would have been underhand - I chose the honest route. In another post of yesterday I did see that maybe it was a bit dodgy and made an apology there and then - I excused it as the best way to reach a number of forum members in one go. I see that post has been moved and tagged onto another post - perhaps the right place for it. I hear your concerns and agree that we do not want a trade advert forum but when the post is on topic, mid topic and useful then I think you are wrong to call it spam. Each time this subject raises irs head I wonder whether we are computer geeks who happen to own Land Rovers or Land Rover fans who happen to own a computer. If we breach computer protocol then as long as it is in the name of Land Rovering I feel it is not a real issue. David

No way!! Second set not arrived either??? Send me a PM with your address to make sure it is the right place I am sending them to! The original kit was sent via Interlink not the Royal Mail - perhaps they use different pigeons... David

Don't know what to say - it works on my 'pooter David

Apology for the blatant advert but I know it is a topical subject as I have several enquiries from forumeers and others about it and this was the easiest way to tell everyone in one go... A 'bolt on' hydro assist kit is now ready to market and as such is available to purchase from now... some pics on the website... David

By the time you have messed about with all the loose fittings and paid all the P&P's from all over the place you could have bought one of my lovely kits that does the axles, gearboxes and timing case all in one lovely kit..... there is a pic of one on my website..... David

I'll make you stainless braid hoses with swivelling male ends if you want them.... but they will have to be swaged ends not the socket and olive type. Otherwise I will happily sell you the hose and olive type fittings anyway but best is to get the hoses made with swaged fittings - they can just arrive in a jiffy bag, exactly what spec you asked for, ready to fit..... I spend about 3/4 of my working life doing braided hoses ( brakes, fuel, oil, coolers etc ) for all sorts of race cars, offroaders, rally cars etc. and more and more people are using the 'made to a spec and supplied ready to fit route rather than messing about with the olive type fittinmgs. That way you can be sure every hose you buy is not going to leak as I pressure test every brake hose individually after assembly before sending them out.... David

WASHERS! BLOODY WASHERS !!! ProComp are alright for the money - I used to sell loads of them til I got Rough Country to make some for me. The eye problem with ProComp is IMHO ( based on years of running around offroad events looking at broken ones ) only 10% ProComps fault and 90% the muppet with the spanners! The ProComp share of the blame is that they are using the same bush setup that was invented in about 1956 on an 86" Series ! - never ever intended to rake the sideways stretch that a longer than standard travel shock on a coiler will give. This is a big shortcoming of the ProComp eye and one I addressed with a different bush on my RC ones like the later Land Rover ones. The 90^ blame on the fitter is that they put the washers on backwards!! The big washers on the upper rear shock mount are ( if you look ) quite domed on the one side and flat on the other. THE DOMED SIDE MUST FIT TO THE SHOCK BUSH SIDE If you put the flat side to the shock bush then on sideways flex the eye of the shock touches the washer and completely eliminates any rubber flexability in the mount. The weakest bit of metal is the weld on the eye so that is the bit that goes ping..... Check your washers and turn them around if they are on wrong and this will almost entirely eliminate the broken eye problem. David

Some are 1/8"bsp but some are M10x1 ( particularly some later ones )... give me a call if you are still struggling as I do both size bolts or little 90' adaptors as part of my breather kits...... Many thanks David

Yes, it's a D35 with LSD David

For the later ( post XJ Cherokees ) I accept the parts prices are silly as you are tied to a main dealer - this does apply to most 'newer' models. The back axle is a funny one! Mine is rumbling nicely!! But when I speak to the sales lads at Rough Country none of them recognise the dodgy Dana 35. They all quote all the different models ( jeep, Ford, various cars ) that have no problems with them. And yet over here the only cars that have them ( Jeep, Ford Explorer ) are known for having problems. Are we putting a European spec of oil that is nearly right but not really right in them, remember they need LSD additive or is it just because they bin the std diff and all put Detroits or Locrights in or something? Either way it is lovely to drive, does 36 mpg, is very comfortable and I am assured ( though I haven't tested mine very well yet ) extrememly capable offroad. I will report back David

Waste 5 minutes on Ebay or just get onto your local factor - pads and discs are barely any more than a Defender! I just sold a Rough Country heavy duty steering damper to a bloke this week though. From me it was £30 and a bit ( as a ProComp would be ). At the main dealer he was quoted £157+vat for a standard one !!!!!! Source the bits sensibly and they are not too hideous.... David

I know I'm telling the wrong crowd but I feel the need to share my discoveries ( no pun intended ). Project greenlane / playday / every day 4x4 1997 R reg 2.5 turbo diesel 12 months MOT 3" lift kit ( springs and shocks ) 31" mud terrains ( new, not remould ) Rock sliders and diff gurads Wich bumper Cheapo winch ( like a Champion / Britpart / etc ) Lots of creature comforts ( aircon / stereo / nice seats for 5 people ) AND THE WHOLE LOT PARKED ON THE DRIVE FOR LESS THAN £2500 including the car!!!! HOW DO YOU DO IT????? Buy a Jeep Cherokee!!! Sorry for swearing. And yes I know that ultimately the Defender will way outdo it offroad but for serious value for money and a car that will do more than most people will ever ask of it you ca't go wrong for that money. David

If you mean the big ugly swan neck thing that joins the steering box to the drag link then it is: 11/16" 16tpi LHthread Hope that helps David

If you look at the 'downloads' page of www.llama4x4.co.uk there is a rather over simple diagram of the bush / washer order.... Hope it helps David

You will need the longer shocks anyway to stop them self destucting by topping pit each time they extend BUT you will need to sort the springs anyway - the shocks will not effect the ride height, that is down to the springs..... David

I don't know if TF and OME are the same but I would suggest not... they may come from the same factory but this still does not make them the same. Just because one brand is made in the same factory as another brand does not make them the same _ i know that Rough Country also supply a branded company ( more known for Suzukis over here ) as well as their own brand. They also supply at least one other company who rebrands their stuff with their own name. All of these shocks are different however, even though they may cross over in application, as each customer has little features built into their own orders. The 'same factory / same product is a very popular misconception un the penny pinching world of UK Land Rovers and it should always be remembered that one factory can make more than one quality of the same product depending on the specs laid down by their customers... David

Offroad or onroad. Hard springs or soft springs. Lots of damping or soft damping. Body roll or lack of articulation. Compromise is the art of good living Pick a budget / aim / spec that is realistic to you and do it. F1 cars are faster than tractors. Lorries hold more stuff than a small van, but do less to the gallon and cost more to buy. I know I seem to have wittering on about compromise in suspension systems every post I've made for the last 2 weeks but that is because it is a simple and necessary, even if inwanted fact of any suspension setup. Even the F1 cars mentioned above have to compromise tyre wear with road holding. Like we have to put up with miserable handling to make a trialler beetter. David

Quite a few people must have the kits or John has a lot of dampers in stock as he orders a number of shocks from me to go with the kits..... The idea is right but I know people who have had issues with the back end wobbling..... they have tried to address this with dampers ( hence ordering from me instead of their original supplier ) which has helped but much of the problem lies in the nature of the rear spring. Yet again the better you make it offroad the less comfortable on the road compromise raises its head..... David

To do the job for sensible money you really are looking at cranked rear arms.... I believe the Gwyn Lewis ones are the best value on the market which I suppose is why I choose to sell them!! £ 145 a pair including vat. Complete with axle end bushes and a new nyloc for the chassis end. Seriously strong aswell David

Tie it in with a trip to The Land Rover weekend whilst he is up this neck of the woods....

Blatant plug but look at the 'Breather Kit' page of my website ... David

Yes, watch this space for a 'coming soon advert'...... David

I am still yet unconvinced that the damping rate should be changed - though I am prepared to keep listening.... Any vehicle that has springs too soft fdor the job will benefit in one direction but lose in the other if you get what i mean - i am still wittering about compromise. To live with lovely supple springs will always lead to seasickness on twisty roads - to make the dampers so hard that they will compensate would make them too stiff to allow the lovely supple movement offroad. In std and +2" lengths where the fittings are 'normal' the RC shocks are valved specifically as per a standard shock just with the benfits of being gas ones rather than simple hydraulic. The 9316 ( 11" ) ones are valved exactly the same which means on the front they are still as LR intended with the added benefits of gas and much longer travel. On the rear they are inclined which will cost damping effect but will allow travel.... this is the compromise we make to enoy better offroading.... Whilst I accept that an offroad capable Lotus exige might be nice you are not going to buy one for £160!!! So unless big money is introduced we will always have to compromise the road for offroad and vice versa.... I see we ( might just be me ) could go in circles with this argument but for a suspension sytem that is designed for offroading to lose a bit of road handling is permissable, especially when much of the problem lies in the rate of the springs and not the valving of the dampers..... David

I have added Autojumble areas to the Land Rover weekend on 26th / 27th April so ( other than it is in a completely different location ) the invitation goes out to come and sell / buy there... Land Rover weekend 2008 many thanks david