David_LLAMA4x4

The ones QT have from me for their 3-link kits do this but continue in braid all the way from the usual mountings on the axle and chassis.... they then route them up the arm and back across the chassis and no further modification to any piping is required.... Another way I like is to go the Toyota ( 101's were the same ) route of having a hose dropping down to the diff and splitting across the axle with little jump hoses around the swivels. This ends up being similar to the rear which is far better protected than the front..... Having said that Tomcat order their hoses to be the same in all four corners dropping from the chassis and straight into the calipers with a banjo - perhaps for racing they are less likely to get ripped off on logs etc and this does have the advantage of making one spare fit all corners.... Gwyn Lewis uses all the std mounting locations BUT what Gwyn has done with the hoses he orders is to very carefully ascertain the correct length - long enough to reach even the extreme articultion of his challenge kit but not so long that they catch or rub. This is I am sure why despite being 'only standard mounting' you never hear of problems with hoses on his suspension setup as long as you have the hoses from himand don't just guess that some Britpart +4" will do nicely... There are I am sure endless other options but I just do as I am told and make the hoses people ask for David

Add £ 6-8 per metre over the 1m length then knock off the 10% discount...... David

I like silly toys !!!! I see what you are doing now... one master for each wheel, 2 pedals and a bar to lock them together seems the 'tractor style' way forward here. Might still be as easy to go braided all the way - £ 30ish would buy you 2 hoses that would go all the way from masters to calipers and they are easy to route and clip along the way David

Unless your transaxle is on very solid 'solid mounts' ( better than most VeeDub solid mount kits! ) I would bend at least a piggy-tail into the pipe or better still uses flexi... there us more movement / vibration than a fixed pipe will enjoy.... even with the transaxle on steel mounts I know loads of VWs that split the pipe on hydraulic clutch conversions. Are the calipers acting on the transaxle as fiddles in addition to the footbrake calipers?? If they are then to save all the extra fabrication and the endfloat in the output flanges making the cylinder ytavel excessive ( depends on what transaxle you are using as to how bad this problem usually is ) then it will be far easier and less work to plumb the master cylinders in line to the rear on the main footbrake circuit.... a bit like having a rally car style hydraulic handbrake for each independant rear wheel. Give me a call if you are struggling with the plumbing - this is the sort of job I do most days of the week many thanks david

Common size is to drop down to a 5/8" bore from the usual 3/4"...... David

The footbrake will indeed work as normal - the fluid passing through the fiddles to the wheels and back through again to the master cylinder with the press / release of the pedal. As long as youstill have a mechanical handbrake seperate to the footbrake sydraulics then it will still be road legal. Re. caliper size mentioned above...., this is not altogether the size of the caliper / pad area. It can alos be down to the bore size of the master cylinder compared to the slave ( caliper ) cylinders. Using a different size master gylinder instead of changing the calipers is often a quicker and easier solution... David

Corrosion isn't the problem, abrasion is the culprit so your galvanising will not help you All the poly ( emery ) bushed will do is remove all the galv first before setting about the arms.... David

I bought my first set of ( in those days ) urethane bushes in the late 80's and they were pants. Since that day I have tried most makes of poly bushings and jave found them all to be pants!! Danage to the arms themselves is very common as is ovalling of the holes that the bolts go through especial;y on the rear axle tabs. In other words any component near to or directly affected by the poly bushing gets damages whereas when proper bushes are used they will sacrifice themselves for the greater good of the car, hence they don't always lasr long but at least you only neeed to change the bushnot the rest of the suspension. In a previous life I was involved in mobile crane hire and we owned a 45 ton capacity crane. On the jib head was IIRC 6 nylon pulleys running on a 4"ish steel bar. We had to buy a new steel bar every 18 months but never needed a new plastic pulley! What used to happen was general road ( or site ) crud used to get into the grease / gaps on the shaft. These bits would embed themselves into the softer plastic thus doing no more damage to the plastic than a small dent. They would then run on and rub and scour into the steel shaft wearing nasty grooves into it. The same will apply to a poly bush in a LR. The carp will get into the joint , embed into the softer material and them 'emery cloth' away at the metal birs Over the years I have actually seen radius arms so worn that a metalastic type bush will fall straight through without a press. Poly bushes seem to be one of those products that have built up a great reputation for a carp product - but then what would I have learned over the last 30 tears of LR using compared to someone who drives a Merc but has 4 pages of adverts Sricj to OE bushes for both articulation and ( long term ) longevity of your car. David

Yes it is a simple bolt on ( and off again ) modification that no special tools are required for. A normal LR owners toolbox is all you will need and full fitting instructions come with it..... Percentage increase is a bloody good question and one that to be honest I don't have an accurate answer to - let me try and think about it and I will post again... David

Come on someone, help him out U reckon it is a quick, easy and neta job. It is no where near as powerful as hydro could go but that is deliberate. It does not slow the steering to a point that it can't be driven at any speed. It is cleasrly an assist rather than all the steering and will help turn bigger tyres and take a lot of strain off the steering box centre shaft that is so prone to twisting. The power has also been held back so that it doesn't require everything elkse to be beefed up to cope with it making it a simple bolt on kit with no other modification needed. There is a number of kits out there now so if you go to a Howling round you will see some in use.... David

You just use the same calipers as the footbrake uses... The first thing that happens when you press the pedal ( or in this case pull the lever ) is for a little rubber bung to move and seal the port to where the fluid comes in from. This means any pressure exerted on the lever will immediatel;y isolate it from any part of the braking sytem forward of the cylinder. Any more pressure on the lever will send fluid down to the wheel but not up to the front.... A simple process that, as I say, makes the handbrake turn so easy in a Mk2 Escort David

Don't bother with secong calipers - heavy, ugly and unnecessary.... 1/ Buy a CNC fiddle brake assembly from Milners £125? ) OR buy 2 LR series II brake master cylinders and fabricate the levers. 2/ Run the existing brake line to the rear axle into the in port of the cylinder (s ) 3/ Run one hose from each port ( cylindert ) to each back wheel. This might sound obvious but I would suggest the left lever for the left brake!!!! 4/ Bleed the brakes and away you go. Simply pull on whichever lever you want that side wheel to brake on. Just the same a s hydraulic handbrake is plumbed in a rally car but you have one for each wheel. PM, email or call 01938.850382 if I have not made that clear. U have all the hoses, T-pieces connectors etc. in stock if you are struggling to fing them lying around Hope that helsp David

I have seen 'pig tails' in the hoses from the master cylinder down to the chassis just incase the bulkhead moves about / twists on the chassis but IMHO if your bulkhead is that wobbly it is time to get the toolbox out and fix the problem. A coil can cope with vibration but not really movement hence their use on solid mounted engines as mentioned above.... David

If your flexi hose is bolted through a tab on the chassis then simply plumb straight into it with the hardline and just ensure that the hardline is well P-clipped to the chassis. That way unless the chassis actually twists then ther cannot be movement of the hardline. David

Not exactly sure where you mean but there is a simple rule of thumb with brake lines be it on an offroader or a rally / circuit type car. All hardlines should be fixed so that there is no movement. Anywhere that there is movement of a hose use stainless braid. If you follow that rule then work hardening of the hardline is not an issue. Hence for both speed, performance and convenience most race / rally / track cars run stainless braid throughout the entire system Many thanks David

I've only got fuel pimps on the website so far.... need to get more pages up and running for the motorsport stuff. The Mocal pump will cost about £125..... David

The R380 has a sort of external oil cooler bypass casting on the passenger side of the box - to fit a cooler you simply remove this bypass and put on a cooler take-off casting in its place ( I use one of these as a paper weight on the desk!! ) IIRC the LT77 does not have the same holes in the case to bypass or take a feed from..... David

I can happily sort you out with an oil pump, cooler, ports and suitable hoses if you want to give me a call oe PM... David

Very briefly: The pump scavenges the oil from the 2 ports on the sump and sends it off to a big tank. The 3rd element of the pump sucks the oil from the tank and squirts it into the middle of the hole where the oil filter used to screw on. A remote filter, a tank and a filter inlet fitting will sort out the whole kit along with some hoses of course... Hope that helps a bit otherwise just give me a call David

Why? The phone numbers are in the public domain anyway as they are my work not personal ones and the offer of help might be of use to other forum members who view the topic without posting to it directly with a question..... David

Typing it all here could take a while!!! Give me call on 01938.850382 / 07969.458958 and I can tell you through it, it is a job I have done the plumbing for several times on rally / track cars. I can happily quote you for all the bits you will need extra to what is in the pics including a custom oiltank right down to new copper washers for the fittings but don't feel compelled toi buy just cause you are phoning I am more than happy to help out without the promise of a sale..... David

In a spectacular typo the topic should be 'Rear' ax;e and not @Ewar; David

I am having great fun trying to explain to an Italian who speaks as little English as I speak Italian what a 't_piece' from the back axle of a 300 Disco with ABS looks like - the one that is really 2 elbows back to back rather than a true T.... If anyone has the facility to look this up and post the pics from the parts page or even take a picture and post it so I can forward it to him it would be an enormous help... Many thanks in advance David

No, they won't work properly upside down....... David

I sell Setrab coolers and there are several suitable ones in their range for this job. The position will depend a lot on your application but either way you will need a lot of airflow for them to work hence the fan on rear mounted ones. For serious offroad then in the back with a big fan is probably the best - easy to plumb and well away from anything that could block it oe. mud For heavy towing or high ambient temps. then infront of or behind the main cooling rad or intercooler is nest as you will get lots of airlow. Behind rad is ok as the air through the water rad will not pick up enogh heat that it is warmer than the auto cooler so will still cool..... A water to oil heat exchanger is great for engine oil as it does not need to be in the airflow at all making fitting it an easier option but for auto trans cooling it is not so effective as there is less difference between the cooling water and the trans oil. Plumbing to any cooler running ATF is best done in teflon.... there are a couple of hydraulic hoses that can cope but fuel / oil hose is not suitable. Use -6 ( or -8 depending on box ) stainless braided teflon - about £17 a metre and about the same for the fitting either end..... Hope that helps - or if it makes no sense give me a call on 01938.850382 and I can explain better what I am on about Many thanks David