howard14

A Defender hand brake does work on both axles if you engage the center diff-lock, not as good as 'foot on the brake' because of the open axle diffs, but valuable. I always do it now on slimy slipways launching boats, ever since I had the whole rig slide into the water with no one in the cab, and just the rear wheels locked, and me behind it! Just got a wee bit wet. cheers. Howard. Ps I now have it slide in with all four wheels locked.

All that oil has done your LR a load of good, I don't know how messy your engine bay is, but I would be tempted to just have a good mopping up, rather than use water, But that's just me. Cheers. Howard.

Cheers, will do me best... Howard.

Just a thought, does it not have a paint code? Takes all the opinion out of it.. Best regards. Howard.

Hi Ralph. I dont think I will need another one now, as the oil temps seem ok. I am going to fit thermometers to both the inlet and outlet of the oil cooler though, and take some records, and report back here for the pleasure of my soulmates. It looks to be the pressure switch, which is nice. However it started when I fitted a new oil cooler/rad. And so it mislead me. I suspect that the idea is that the oil cooler is always 'in-use', when the engine reaches 'normal' temps. But is not used in freezing conditions, I will find out. Many thanks for your help. Howard.

Arrrr, thanks a lot Aragorn, for that. I should be ok with a hot oil pressure in the teens then. I seemed to recall that it was fairly low, but needed some re-assurance. Been on the web and phone today, and it was a bit hard to find them actualy in stock. Thanks again. Howard.

My 1997 Volvo V70AWD Has a system called TRACS. It's very similar to this, except that it is totaly automatic, I can switch it off or on, but that is all.I think it works very well, in snow I seem unable to promote any wheelspin, just as I seem unable to lock a wheel when braking with the ABS. It can produce some shocks though, like when accelerating over a wet, fairly fast cattle grid, and feeling the BANG as it works. It's also got an LSD. That works too! As for off road on a LR, well, try it and let us all know.... Best regards. Howard.

Thanks Retro--- Yes he had me going for a bit with that cm3... Must be thankfull to Ralph though, probably wrong in the LR book, not a standard SI unit anyway!! For the folks at home: 1kgf/cm2=14.223 psi. BUT what I realy wanted to know was the pressure the oil switch tripped at, I feel sure these figs. are for the normal oil pressure range(25-55). No one go to bed yet. Howard.

Thanks again Ralph. Just trying to work it out in 'old money'. Top man... Howard.

Woo Hoo, Thanks Ralph, Can you remember what pressure the switch is intended to 'make' at? Thanks again. Howard.

I fitted an oil pressure gauge today, in place of the oil pressure switch. Ambient temp. +10c. On start up, 40psi on tick over. 60psi when revved up. When warmed up after 30min. drive, 20psi on tick over, 50 psi when revved. Seemed the same after 50 min. This doesn't seem too bad to me, what is anybody else getting please? The old switch has a translucent cap on it's body, that seems half full of oil! so that can't be good, I will 'lash out' on a new one. Thanks in advance. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

Polycarbonate won't polish up like perspex will with Brasso or Tcut, it does have it's own 'special stuff' though, that is like a cream, and sort of works, in a half hearted sort of way. If you treat it like perspex it just gets worse. I was talking to a man the other day when I noticed that his shoe-lace was undone, so I told him. He put the gritty sole of his 'loose shoe' up onto the Lovely polycarbonate, streamlined, headlight nacelle of his newish car and retied it. I said nothing, but felt empty, and alone. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

Learn to LUBRICATE almost every thing... Good luck. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

Brilliant. Howard.

For those nuts, I would use a 'nut splitter', not dear, usualy sold in two sizes, mine are Kamasa, been fine, Teng do a pair of nice ones. Experience goes a long way when it comes to pulling apart seized items.... Hope that helps. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

Dead right. Old, worn out injectors give white smoke as well. Black smoke smells a bit like a traction engine! Howard.

What would life be Philip? Without a sense of irony. Howard. 2X300TdiDef. And a genuine parts book (£55). No Microcat: Would take too long to download.

Be nice to think so eh. Will report back when my VOLVO AWD. Rear wheel bearing is done, and I get a chance at the LR. Had to buy a hydraulic press today for that job, they wanted £450 for hub assby! So bought a press for half that. Best regards. Howard. PS. I can spell Thermostat if I try hard enough.

Many thanks Ralph. Good man as ever... I have fitted a thermometer to the exit pipe of the rad- Oil cooler, and on the 220mile round trip that I made today the max. Temp. 'found' (have to stop to check) was 67c. Out of intererst I am going to fit a second thermometer to the inlet side to find out what that is. The problem is: I can cruise 'all day' at 50/55 mph, and the oil warning will NOT come on the next time the engine idles. If, I cruise at 60 Mph: the oil warning DOES come on at next idle. If I then slow down to 50 ish, for 10 mins. or so, then the oil light will stay 'out' as is normal. The engine sounds great with normal power, and no water over heating. I will fit an oil gauge when I can, and find the oil pressure for sure. It's been like this for a 'few' months, but with mainly local motoring, it does not happen. Duckhams' semi synthetic 15/40, 80,000 miles, 'sounds as sweet as a nut'. Maybe the plastic bodied oil pressure has 'gone high with age'? let's hope so! All thoughts, and observations warmly recieved.... Howard. Isle of Skye.

Hello all. I suspect that I may have a stuck (closed) oil cooler themostat, and I wonder what the correct opening temperature might be, so that I can test it. Also by way of experiment, is it safe to run with it removed?... It is a 1997 300TdiDef. 78,000 mls. Many thanks. and best regards. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

It just puts you further in the wrong, than the low life you seek to protect yourself from. Firearms offences, and 'dangerous' dogs, are more serious issues, than 'mere' vehicle theft, however serious it is for you. On a positive note, every time you, I, or any one else 'offends', it triggers an army of Profesionals (for whom we must be thankfull) who's only income is derived from looking after our interests as offenders, and will not swerve from that path. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

It's got so bad in some areas now, that some 'wise' people leave the keys in their BMW.Etc. Overnight, to avoid the risk of a mob of criminals breaking in and torturing them to hand them over, along with other valuables. One case I heard of involved 'them' bringing 'the baby' downstairs, and threatening to harm it, to ensure cooperation, it worked. The problem goes way beyond locks, i'm afraid to say... Howard. 2x300Tdi.

I too, Know them as 'flogging' spanners, but not just for use with hammers. In ships engine rooms they have some BIG nuts, so they use a 'Tup', which is a billet of steel suspended on chains, and is swung by two or more men. 'Just the thing for the job'. You know when you've been 'TUPPED'. Howard. Isle of Skye.

More seriously Les. Do you think that tool has been heat treated, and left too brittle? I regard my Difflock holding tool as being well made, and usefull, and even if it were made from mild steel, to be of adequate strength.... Maybe bend a bit, like the 'abused' hand of a clock, but to 'go pop' is not right, I hope you sent it back. I like good tools, and in this case the breaker bar should be have been the weakest link, I could accept that. If it is mild steel maybe I should 'beef mine up a bit', what do you think? Best regards. Howard.

Were you turning it the wrong way? Howard. Isle of Skye.