howard14

Ball joint splitter.... Best regards. Howard.

Despite what people think, say, do, wish, want, and have, hexagon headed bolts are a more sensible choice for most applications, except when slot headed screws are! If you exchanged the that poor quality, soft, distorted, 'skt'. Headed bolt for a std. 'Hex'. headed one, then it will come out more easily in the future (copper ease on the threads). Good luck. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

It depends on you. I like my center seat, it's not a good seat, but from time to time it gets used for local trips. My labrador loves a Landy, and from choice she prefers the drivers position, but her legs can't reach the pedals so I send her over to the passenger side. If I have a human passenger then she (the bitch) sits in the middle leaning hard against me, so hard that it makes steering a bit 'tight', so I put my arm around her, and I can then steer normaly. I couldn't do any of that with a 'cubby' box. Hope that helps! Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

HI there. Can you say/do you know, how much the subscription is for GTR? It looks a good thing, but it does not say how much unless I go through the signing up process. Many thanks. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

I once put five galls. of petrol on top of three galls. of derv. into a Mercedes sprinter! Very bad storm, four hundred miles from base, dark night, charming, helpless, girl on duty...I added 3lt. of engine oil to the tank. It Ran perfectly normaly, and never gave any later problems. Howard. 2X300TdiDef.

'Weatherd' galvanizing accepts oil paint beautifully. commonly done on marine applications. If I wanted to tone a new one down a bit, then I might try a few of those Waxoil UNDERSEAL spray tins (not the standard grade) on the obvious bits. I use it on the outside of my 300TdiDef rear cross member and it's good, it sets, and with a layer of filth on, it just looks original. After a couple of years, I would spray Fluid film, or whatever I fancied at the time, INSIDE the chassis legs. Condensation forms inside there, and 'things' might just need a little help. 'Fluid film' in it's various forms is good stuff. Howard. 2X300TdiDef90.

I love them because they are a 'Landrovery sort of thing'. like those galvanized catches, cappings, hooks and hinges that so properly equiped series types, but we are not allowed to have any more... Although (as Ralph says) they wont save the rear lights, I belive that is what we expected to belive. One thing is for sure; they are not for recovery!! Because: they are made from aluminium! at least mine always have been. Great for tying up dogs though. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi. I bought a single barrel 'Michelin' foot pump five years ago and have used it extensivly on the many mowers, wheel barrows, and an AWD Volvo that demands carefull tyre maintenance. In fifty years of foot pumping, I think it is the best one I have used, and I recommend it. I have found 'double barrel' pumps to be hard work, so I avoid them, but they might be the best choice for a Landy, which is also hard work, so it depends on how much 'grunt' you have left... Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

O well, now you tell me, too late now. Started at the back you see, just doing the rear cross member, presently welding the front cross member!! If I am foolish enough to do this job again; I will follow your advice. Many thanks, Howard.

Yes Ralph. Thought of that, and may well be the best way.I'll see what it looks like on the day! If the cable comes adrift; well that will make my mind up... Many thanks, and all the best. Howard. Ps. When you say 'rear' I think you might mean front.... Well it would be in my case.. All the best.

Hi. Welcome to the world of automotive archaeology. Be very respectful with that wiring loom. I very carefully disconected what I could inside the back cab, and then cut the wires going to the rear cross member. I found an old boat trailer winch cable (3/16") and taped it to the back end of the loom. I then pulled the whole loom out at the front leaving the 'heat proof' winch cable inside the chassis, for the welding. I was glad I did this because the loom was suffering from 'chaff' in quite a few places and I have to retape it for most of it's length. I also intend to shield it in Spiral-wrap (maplin) when I put it back through... I suspect that 'Loom-chaff' may cause some auto electrical suicides... Hope that helps. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi Paul. I could realy get involved with this electrolitic corrosion on here,but better not. Those 'Craddoc' doors MAY be zinc plated! Now I think you ought to find that out, because it may put a different complexion on things, for the better maybe??? For my part, my 1997 Defender 90 doors, treated by me eight years ago are are still ok. As is all of my 1997 Volvo V70 A.W.D. I looked in it's doors six years ago, found nothing wrong, and they have stayed that way. If only Volvo made Defenders and took real pride in the fact. Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

So there yer go... Howard.

Hi all. I have two pt. nos. For the front discs, For a Def. 90 Tdi. VIN va12---- . First reg. 97. They are: ftc 3846. and frc7329. Non vented. If the first one is right; it is an easy Ebay buy. I suspect that both may be right, but I dont know why. Thanks a lot. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

You could have tapped in one of your old gramaphone needles into that Midge-bite to to have effected a 'perfect' repair... Howard.

I thought you said that the MIDGES were more 'refined' over your way!! Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Many thanks from me Les. Very best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi will. Have just seen your project pics. That chassis is pretty bad, you know. I have been spending the last few months plating up an R reg 90 that is better in parts, but worse in others than yours. I have good facilties, and I like to work to a good standard so my 'Project' chassis will be just fine... At what cost though? That is time, welding consumibiles, hours and hours of mig-weld grinding, then do it all again, and when it's done it's still a repaired chassis. So, 'bite the bullet' and plan for a new chassis . I wish I had, it's why they make them.... Lots of luck. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Ps By the way, my brake pipes measure more than 3/16" but less than 5mm. So I dont know what size Kunnifer to order!!

Of cause you dont, this is how ideas progress; by waves of wild imagination. I saw some lads the other week, and they had led. tyre valve caps, and led. screenwash nozzles!!! I routinly fit little red (captive) grease nipple covers on all sorts of machinery, it shows I care. Very best regards, Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi Anderzander. Just seen/heard your utube clip. Well, this may be 'way wrong', but I would get an aerosol can of 3in1 oil (with ptfe) and copiously spray the top ends of all four coil springs, and get it well into their seatings. These springs may twist on their seatings under deflection, and can make nasty noises that are hard to pinpoint. The 3in1 oil may seem 'a bit cissy' but I like it, and find it 'handy' for all sorts of jobs. If it's as simple as that, you will be a happy man. Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Yeah, with red plastic inserts in the Skts, ORRRR, even L.E.D.S. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

PS. A stainless skt. Hdd. Bolt would make it even better!!

Hi Martin. It's fairly straight forward to get to the top of the rear cross-member. I think you can do it without even getting underneath. A good(ish) Trolly jack, two (or better) four axle stands, a modest compressor, a long blow gun, a good light, a sandvick scraper or two, a Machine Mart paraffin gun (For thinned down Waxoil), a baked beans tin, with a 20mm paint brush, for waxoil daubing, and the ability to crawl around under your Landy full of enthusiasm to kill rust werever you find it, will take you a long way. Hope that helps. Howard. Born again Waxoilist. 2x300TdiDef.

Which sounds about right. Howard. 2x300Tdi.

Top man. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.