howard14

A nice robust workmanlike mod. It would still be good without the grease nipple, for those people that know about oil cans. These days I use waterproof trailer wheel-bearing grease for that sort of job (£7.50 a tub), it works well, or even silicone grease at three times the price even better. Thanks for the bolt sizes. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

The wheels are Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

The notice very clearly states that the vehicle (Defender) CAN be used on a single axle roller rig at speeds not above 5kph. I think thats fine for an 'MOT' brake tester. Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Here Here. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Difflock do a synthetic version. Hope that helps. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Not far for you though, just your 'size' I think.... Good luck. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi Chris. Those 'RIVNUTS' sieze up very badly, and as like as not the best way might be to grind the heads off then grind/punch the rivnut and the siezed in bolt shank through. Then fit new 6mm rivnuts. I bought a rivnut tool off Ebay for about £17, and a bag of rivnuts for less than a fiver. In total you have twelve mudflap holes to worry about; so it might seem worth it Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Quick ans. to question is 'THE HOCKEY STICKS'. The rear axle is ( or was) held on by that 'A FRAME' that you have removed!!! Dont drive it like that, unless you like nasty shocks!!! Howard.

Wow, that looks great! Do they do it in metallic? Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

HI mel. Brilliant.. Best of luck. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

HI roachy. Pretty intelligent thinking, mainly because I have been considering something like this myself! I may well weld on a 12mm nut at the lowest point of each chassis leg to act as a drain plug, and do the same for other holes as well. When one sees the long term, untreated corrosion inside these legs it's hard to ignore. In a 'newish' chassis Waxoil will work as well as it is applied, but on crusty scale something 'wetter' and more penetrating (I think) is needed. There are some problems though; I belive L.R. intend the chassis and out-riggers to fill-up with water so that they do not provide unwanted buoyancy that reduced traction. For my part I would never take one of mine 'wading' because of all the extra work, and the reduced corrosion life that would ensue. However, If it's 'sport' or 'combat' you are engaged in, you wont mind that... I am presently 'plating' a 96Def chassis, that was allmost given to me. I allready had one the same age, that I had owned for the last nine years. This first one has been treated by me every year or so and is pretty much ok. The second one has always been 'garage maintained' and is very poor. I am lucky enough to have a four poster ramp under cover so I can do extensive welding as a sort of art form, If I choose to. I have been doing this work slowly over the last few months, and have been able to observe the effect of temperature changes on the chassis steel on a daily basis. If it 'warms up' overnight by four or five degrees, then the bare metal of the chassis is 'running wet' as as if the gnomes had sprayed it with a garden spray. Even the rusty crust INSIDE THE CHASSIS. It's an old problem... So I thought 'fill it full of foam' then I thought 'no it's rusty that won't help. A new one maybe would like it, if you dont mind floating'. One way or the other it's going to get a lot of 'oilyness' inside there, sealing the dumbiron may be difficult, I dont want to dump oil on the road under heavy braking!!! On the law of diminishing returns, anything you do to slow down corrosion will have enormous benefits, compared too nothing! But some folk wont see the point... Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi ralph. Well next time give me some warning and I will repair the 2M feeder(were the black Lab. bitch chewed through it) and we can have a sched. 73. GM0DTU QRT

Hi santalars. I have had this 'CHIRPING' for about seven years now, through two tensioners, and three polyvee groove belts. I have found that on my engine it is simply caused by the back of the belt 'squirming' as runs over the tensioner. I now regard it as my harmless friend, aided by my growing deafness. If I put some lubricant on the periphery of the pully it goes away for a short while, but always returns. On my Volvo car the back of the belt is cross hatched, and silent.... It may some other reason on your engine though, check carfully. Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi Ralph. Read those PDFs. Very sensible. CB can be very usfull up here were mobile phones dont always work!! I use it quite a bit. On and off. HI. Best regards. Howard (GM0DTU) Isle of Skye. 2x300TdiDef.

Hi Anderzander. I had this problem for several years despite all the squirting attentions you could dream of. It was only cured when I removed the master cyl. and made a proper job of greasing (with proper rubber grease) the end of the push rod where it presses against the piston inside the gaiter. The truth was that the push rod was wearing it's way through the piston! with a nasty 'creaking' sound. That was about six years ago, and it lasted Five years in silence, until the seal began to weep, and I changed it for a new bran new cyl. Upon inspection, I found the new one to be quite free of lubricant, and no doubt would have been subject to undue wear. SOOO: I copiously 'juced it up' and we will all live happily ever after. Best regards. Howard. Isle of Skye. 2x300TdiDef

BRILLIANT. many thanks. Best regards. Howard. Isle of Skye.

Hi Al. Try the 'mig-welding forum.co.uk' Lots of links, and some very good guys... I used to think that welding was invented for LandRovers, but it's not quite true. Best regards. Howard. Isle of Skye.

Hi all. The people that work their way into positions of legislative power, have a totally different mindset to those that have mechanical, or even technical skills, no matter what the degree of training or aptitude. If they really knew the scale and complexity that some of us engage in, it would cause deep concern, and attempts would be made to regulate it, of that I have no doubt. Even in the 1960s there was an attempt to stop people engaging in repair work:'Good God, some of them are even changing things like back axles' I remember the waistcoated M.P. saying on television to a gravely concerned interviewer who slowly shook his head. Many of us know of the common corruptions and poor standards of 'the motor trade' and we seek to avoid them by our own skill and wit, and it can cost more money to do so! And that is the cost of control and choice. At a deep philosophical level it's good for a population to 'self train' in all sorts of things, not just cars, but to a careerist Euro apparatchik, it can seem unnatural and a threat to management. Enough for now. Best regards. Howard. Isle of Skye. 2x300Tdi.

Hi David. When you say 1300 bhp, do you mean 300 bhp! If so thats very good for 1.5Lt. On the other hand 1300 would be off the richter scale, but well worth having. Best regards. Howard. Isle of Skye. 2x300TdiDef....