discomikey

mate reckons theyre about 30mm offset will try and double ckeck the markings tomorrow, incidentally he is looking at selling his set.

I'll ask my mate if he could measure his for you if you'd like?

my mate has a set of them on his 110, before he got that i had never seen them before but i quite like them

as mentioned above nige, i do plan to have a hard "on/off" switch to the power feed, such as any car with cruise has the "cruise on/off" button/switch which then enables the rest of the functions etc. i believe killing the board and therefore the throttle feed will give it some degree of failsafe.

not off topic at all it will be good to have a record of all different suggestions

how much would you stick yours on the blag site for? hehe really keen to see cut quality when all sorted, i presume it will be pretty good because a decent cut on a plasma is all down to the settings

and the amount of blood blisters!!!!!

arounf £30-40 ea so im definately gonna go for it, although i am being outrageous by fitting these to a series (ooh no they dont have enough rivets!!! they cant go on!!!) i want to keep it looking as "series" as possible at a glance. (because no matter what anyone says series doortops CANNOT handle prolonged periods of motorway speeds mixed with high winds!!!!!!)

already written in have a look back where i said that C.4 (IIRC) is the brake light switch reading the alternator rev output so it wont be directly speed related rather rev related. will work the same way in reference to the human interface, however it can also be utilised in neutral as a hand throttle the way i am imagining the interface between stepper motor and throttle, means that i will be able to accelerate past it, the motor will hopefully "push" the throttle round rather than "grab" it, therefore the throttle is free to move more, but not less. i plan to closely match the stepper motor maximum torque output with the torque required to turn the pump against its return spring, (obviously with a little more omph but not overkill) hopefully with as "low" a spec as i can get away with means that the return springs will fairly easily overcome the motor once deactivated. there will be a master "board on/off" toggle switch so if the programme itself fails in an "on" state then i can manually cut the power and it will shut down. having read your posts, it seems like one of these PWM type valve actuators would maybe be a better option though, this is something i plan to look into last. i want to get all the inputs sorted and in a safe programme before i look at actuation at which point i will research into types of actuators and their pros and cons. i believe the lack of position reference should be relatively irrelevant as i am going to use the alternator rev gauge signal as the engine speed input and therefore just adjust the PWM in relation to this, meaning wherever the throttle is, it will be adjusted according to RPM rather than throttle position. as if i did it to throttle position it would slow down when it meets an incline, whereas reading revs it will compensate and add more throttle. he hopes... haha please keep an eye out as you have been doing for safety implications as these are of course the most important thing in this scenario. it is however, just a project and if it doesent work safely i am more than happy to just "bin" it until i can make it work (if i can at all) i hope so far that i have covered all the bases where it comes to safety so if you have more questions i will more than happily answer

i have commented at the side of each step to refresh my memory if i leave it for a while then come back. i just left this out as it gave away what the idea was haha

itll be a stepper motor type affair

and the winner is........

FF i have an arduino for free for my IP so it makes sense to learn this, i might end up having a look at proper C afterwards though to see what i can do:)

yeah the pre 87 lift handle doors i have sourced are the ones without the cappings, but im pretty sure you can fit them with the use of some trim clippage or something i will write up about it when i get them

which engine? i presume a v8? what displacement? i havent heard of this as a problem but then again i am far from familiar with the petrol side of LR but provding a little more info will im sure help to speed up the answer to your query

nope

oh now that is smart, and much more compact than i had envisaged, i seemed to think it was going to be cube shaped not slab shaped for some reason. if only i could afford a plasma cutter!!!

cheers they are what i thought then thanks ralph

muhahah no one has guessed it yet, and elbekko, i should hve proabably made it more clear but yes that is basic running a picaxe 20m2 board rather than an arduino that i originally thought to use. i will be learning c language next for my IP and posting here along the way. do you want a clue? C.4 is the brake light switch

Hi all, can anyone confirm the part numbers for LH and RH early 90 clip on door cappings as a mock version of the series door capping (see pic for reference): part book shows the part but doesent relate it to a number on the key. however the key does show "LH and RH waist capping with pn's MUC 3928 and MUC 3929 are these the correct part numbers? a google search of these part numbers doesent seem to bring up a lot and while they seem available on various parts stores and not for a lot of money too, they dont show a picture alongside the part so i am not sure cheers

nige did you ever tril fit to a series? i might be up for a kit for trial i can give you drawings of any adjustments/mounting measurements i have to make

no, the tempcomp is just something ive added as a "while im at it" thing

so more on the LR based project, i have decided to use Picaxe 20m2 chip for this as i have one which i had to build and programme for a uni assignment and therefore its free haha alongside my assignment i have been writing this: can you tell what it is yet? a rather large book on arduino programming has been borrowed from the library too, however im putting that off until the end of this week as i fear learning basic and C language at once may confuse me slightly! this took me around 3 hrs to piece together from trial and error and using the commands manual on the picaxe website. i have no idea on what the PWM settings should be and the numbers 100 and 102 are just random numbers which will be altered once inputs are configured and i know what i want. i fear that the b1+1/ b1-1 may be too small of a change so may alter that to 5 rather than 1, or something. i have no idea what the input pulse of C.2 will be as of yet, nor what motor i will be using for an output so these are due to change. any more educated guesses?

its not the sort of job that you want to put off really it will only make for more expense come repair time when the head has warped etc,

might be worth checking the prop flange bearing on the diff, and if thats okay its not a massive job to pull a rear diff out and give it an inspection for peace of mind, it oculd be the carrier bearings by the sounds of it