Jimmy Two-Jacks

Thanks, Sorry I didn't explain very well at all No what I mean is both wires test as live simultaneously! without the brake applied! Cheers J

OK, to start with I have to declare my electrical incompetence, a spanner or hammer is my tool of choice rather than a multimeter . My early 90 has had a niggling problem with its rear nearside stop/tail lamp for some time since I put the body back on the chassis. The light when on seems to work when it wants to basically. So I decided to have a go at sorting it out myself Armed with circuit tester and bits of wire and all that stuff. I managed to work out the bulb holder was at fault Feeling quite proud of myself for this staggering technological diagnosis I decided to investigate the wires at that feed the lamp unit. To my amazement two live wires! How does that work then ? Doesn't the stop lamp wire only become live when the brakes are applied. Having said all this the the lights now work as they should now I have fitted a replacement holder "I know if it aint broke and all that" but I just wondered how the brake lights work in that case. Cheers J

If you want a down pipe making give Jo White a message (also a forum member) and he will tig you one up, to your spec and design, does stainless to. Thanks all for the info.Looks like pipe and wash bottle off and then the rubber man act then .

Thanks all will try and adjust the detent on the spring first. Cheers J

Thanks. I am near Witney, not that far. I will pm you and set something up if that's OK. I don't know if its just me as its not my daily drive and used at weekends and other times given the chance. Thanks J

Non to speak of just a a notchy feel when 1st is eventually successfully selected. Cheers J

It could well be, would it be visible/adjustable from the opening under the gear lever gater or is it a bigger job than that? Thanks for the reply btw. J

Hi All, Sorry I just seem to keep asking questions lately. I keep selecting reverse instead of first gear with my retrofitted defender 200tdi with standard LT77(?) box .. although its funny when it scares the plop out of the Citroen Saxo boy racers that get right up my chuff at lights Shouldnt their be a lift or push down system on the gear lever to differentiate the forward and reverse selection? Cheers J2J

I bought these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Land-Rover-Series-3-Front-Door-Bottoms-LH-RH-NEW-/261024838682?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc64af41a#ht_1559wt_1131 and I am pleased but beware they are bare i.e no locks,seals,tops etc.

Hi All, I have got to fit a longer main battery cable from the +VE has anyone got any tips for getting at the starter motor of my 200tdi 90 or is it just a case of removing the pipe in front and doing a rubber-man act? Cheers

My doors were new from a chap on eBay and I got the alloy tops from Richards in Chasetown along with the anti burst latches and locks and seals. What started out as a cheapish replacement job then got a bit expensive in the true Land Rover style with the cost of new doors, tops and locks and latches and seals as the door bottoms come grey primer bare as standard. Oh and I had to drill the outer skin to accept the lock cylinder mechanism I like the simple doors and they suit my early 90 but they are not for everyone because they are clunky and draughty.

I have got series III front doors on my 90 with sliding windows.

Thanks All J

Hi All, I am feeling a little vulnerable since I did away with the snap off steering wheel . Because of this I am thinking of wiring a discreet switch to disable the fuel solenoid in my 200tdi 90 and need some advice. I am not asking for advice that might be useful to scumbags, just wire colour and the kind of amp capacity switch I would need (20amp?) and well any advice that might help. PMs appreciated if you don’t want to post sensitive details on forum. Thanks for any kind help you can give me . J

Oh Bugger...another isolator on order then I suppose I might as well leave the earth one and just plumb in another into the positive feed better than messing about trying to joint fat 70mm cable.

Thanks. I have put another isolator on the winch but on the -ve side should I have put it on the +ve side?

I think I have sussed it out. The T-Max system monitors the battery charge and if one appears to be struggling or indeed flat it connects the other to bump it or to assist in the running of the peripherals like fridges/lights and the like as this system is often used in motor homes etc. So when the isolator key is removed it effectively removed the charge of the primary battery so the digital thingy detects the power loss and links the auxillary battery to assist and of course it seemed odd because the ignition was off. However if you think about it if the system is used in a camper the fridges still need to be powered even if the ignition is turned off so that's why its not effected by the ignition as its not wired through the fuse box but has a dedicated fuse in line and takes its power direct . Well it’s a theory anyway, but I have fixed it Easy solution: ran both 35mm2 earth cables through isolator and made new 70mm2 chassis to isolator cable…job done I bloody love my hydraulic crimper :ph34r:

Hi, I don't know if this helps but this is what I did with my 200tdi but I had a wing from a 2.25 (I think) so no holes for pipe work. J http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68064&hl=&fromsearch=1

Thanks Much appreciated J

Hi All, Fitted a T-Max split charge system on my 90 the other week and all is working well the only thing is when I remove the battery isolator key on the earth side of the start up battery the solenoid links and unlinks the batteries repeatedly until I replace the isolator key. My winch is wired to the main battery as per the instructions that came with the split charge system. Is this right and why does it link and unlink when the isolator is removed? Also does anyone have a copy of the instructions for the T-Max split charge system or knows where I could download them? As mine got wet and fell to bits earlier this evening Cheers J2J

Sorry to hijack but when you say trashing bits (beware stupid question on its way) what does it do, score the shank? The reason I ask is I get the chuck slipping with my cordless and have just thought I hadn't used enough umph when tightening it up but embarrassingly didn't notice it knackered bits ..... J

Or you could use (cold) galvanising paint

Don't worry if you are in Britain that kind of weather is rare! You could try 3M shutz that says on the tin it sets but I don't know if it will transfer when the weather is warm