Jimmy Two-Jacks

I couldn't afford Optima s and so used a new pair of leisure batteries. My mate Jo White (also a forum member) who is a motor sport fabricator made me a drop in and weld tray that effectively takes out the silly central trench in the battery box and lets you fit (cheaper) 2 full size batteries. He cut the road side edge of the battery box bottom out and dropped in the fabricated tray and stitched it in, job done, with a bit of shutz. to finish Images to follow. Cheers J2J

Funny enough just finished fitting one this evening will let you know how I get on with it. j2j

Thank You J2J

I fitted a quick release wheel to my 90 that was tiny at only 14" but I found it too small so fitted a fixed 15" wheel and that makes it less bus like without being too small. Bear in mind though its a Land Rover and not a car so will handle differently. Are you looking at a 110 or 90? Cheers J2J

Many thanks J2J

Does anyone know if the below bolts are 8.8 ht or some higher grade? BX110111L BX110091L Many thanks J2J

Oh dear how embarrassing :blush: .......Went to my friend's (ace mechanic and all round fabrication god) workshop today and in passing mentioned the clang I get while pulling away if I am sloppy with the gear change. He asked if I had checked the prop I said I had. Later he said he would have a look. On emerging from underneath my 90 he told me all the bolts that hold the "A" frame section if that is its name to the underside of the chassis were loose if not almost undone . He said the shanked bolts used by the former owner were too long and didn't knipp up!! The embarrassing thing is I hadn't ever checked and its been through an MOT and they didn't notice either Anyone know the correct size bolts I need that fix the frame to the chassis of my 90 or even better a part number. Cheers J2J

Velly good thlank you

Mine are galanised and I painted them, I just primed them first with "Hammered-allright" special metals primer. Its water based but seems to work very well with alluminium , galv and other tricky metals and finishes Cheers J2J.

Thanks but unfortunately Western its in Chinese . Perhaps Albright is an old Mandarin name!! Cheers J2J

Thanks for the replies. I have been wrestling with the bloody control box and have now scrapped it and am planning to mount the solenoid and wireless receiver on the top of the passenger side, front wheel arch. I got a load of 70mm2 1000amp cable VERY VERY CHEAP (10mtrs for £30 ) and so I am using that because it was cheap and will more than do the job. I think my solenoid is an Albright type but I am not quite sure, see image? I have cut the cables roughly to length and crimped up the terminals for the solenoid ends ready and will have a go at fitting the winch at the weekend, weather permitting. Update if and when it happens Cheers J2J

Thanks but I am fairly short and so If I removed the rear bulkhead and moved the seats I couldn't reach the pedals But thanks anyway J2J

A company in Daventry Northants used to make body lift kits for all sorts of 4x4s they are called LA-Supertrux http://www.supertrux.com/ they might be able to help with advice or billet spacers etc.. J2J

Looking in my engine bay today for a place to mount the solenoid control box but to be honest couldn’t find anywhere that wouldn’t be a pita to fit or access if anything went wrong as they always seem to. Right from the start I should admit I am no auto electrician but forgetting the issue of running extra cable as I have over- catered on that front and I have the crimping equipment to fit the required terminals, what is to stop me mounting the control box on the rear bulkhead behind the passenger seat, if anything. That way it’s out of harm’s way and it’s not going to get wet (well not that wet) ,easy to access, the isolator switch could be mounted nearby on the outer face of the battery box, The unit wouldn't be subjected to engine bay heat and a wander lead could be used through the window or open door or sitting in the cab. Thoughts anyone? J2J

Well I took the 90 out to day and tried to be a bit more careful with the changes and only got the occasional clunk so I think its my "pony" driving... Cheers J2J

Well done it got rid of the quick release wheel and fitted a new 15" Mountney wheel and its much easier to drive than with the tiny 13" removable wheel under my chin

You don't need one for an MOT but if one is fitted I think it has to work. I don't think a separate switch set up will pass muster with MOT bods but I could be wrong. Cheers J2J

Hi All, I am toying with the idea of replacing my removable steering wheel with a 15” fixed proper fitment steering wheel as the removable one sits too high in fact under one of my smaller chins I know they can be modified and all that but I don’t think I would trust a welded joint (funny to think how many welds we trust our life to each day ) My original reason for fitting the removable wheel was purely for security but I know one day I am going to bump into something and get a wheel size dent in the sternum. My question is would a proper Thatcham approved disk-lok be almost as secure as the removable wheel? I know if they want it they will take it but perhaps if its difficult they might not bother.I would use it in conjunction with an Adrenaline pedal box and the other unmentionable tricky bits and bobs.. Thoughts? J2J

Now that's bloody heavy duty!

.... probably right I think I will just try to drive better and don't fix it till it breaks that lot sounds expensive..gulp. Cheers J2J

I saw a topic on here the other evening and didn't want to hijack it but commented that I had experienced similar with my 90. When I pull away if my gear change is harsh and I jump off the clutch a bit sharpish I get a clank at the rear. In the past I thought this was a normal default Land Rover soundtrack. Also If I ease of the gas and then jump back on the gas whilst going along. Funny thing is if I am more careful not to jump off the clutch at gear change it doesn't make a clank and I only notice it if I have been driving the car and haven't driven the 90 for ages Paranoia?

I use one of these they are quite good

I have had a Silverline (don't laugh ) ratchet set for a few years and it has been given some stick on the basis that if you break it its cheap and they say they will replace it for life but I haven't tested this as I haven't managed to break it yet. I used to smash a few ratchets some years back trying to undo rusted stuff, blissfully unaware of such a thing as a BFO breaker bar. Now I would give it some beans with the biggest bar straight away if it even looked a bit rusty and not ruin the ratchet. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-PC-3-4-DRIVE-METRIC-SOCKET-SET-GUARANTEED-FOREVER-/370595149711?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item564931378f#ht_2560wt_1320 J2J

Good point, easily overlooked, thank you.

www.vulcandezign.co.uk He is in Oxfordshire if it helps