Boothy
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Posts posted by Boothy
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Now talking to the boys that are modding rally cars and strip racers using Duratec's and similar they're all telling me Megasquirt is carp and massively outdated and flawed, even Squirt 2 and I should be looking at Emerald 3d's K3 ECU and software as a real up to date system for similar money.
The part where a Lamba sensor is not used because a more accurate method is set using proper equipment on a rolling road nailed and left in the ECU makes a lot of sense to me.
From spending lots of time reading megaquirt threads it seems that a lot of time is being spent tweaking and then the end performance is assessed via road test and the "that feels better" syndrome is then tapped in, which I'm sure the tuners that know their worth will surely agree is not the best way of keeping a tuned engine healthy and happy.
Weather, humidity and temperature changes can have dramatic effects on engine output figures within hours, as we all know and not the settings which could have just been tapped in, I'm sure it happens.
Please, please, don't think I'm having a dig at anybody, just airing my thoughts out loud, it seems to me that when your tweaking ignition maps and curves etc unless you have access to some very professional test gear that can give accurate readings that some very poorly set up megasquirted motors must be about.
Any comments please just in the thinking stage especially on the Emerald.
Boothy
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If I fill my rice burner 4.2tdi Patrol (Landrover trailer puller, thats all folks) with bio-diesel and let it stand for a week, then do say a 200 mile trip, refill with bio-diesel and let stand again for a week or two, which is a very normal practice for me, (because I have a works van a well), then at what point is the rice burner's tank and injectoin system so full of settled ex-suspended matter that its now beyond use?
Real possibility, and at what cost for only a few pence per litre less?
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Why is it every fiddler/builder loves a new workshop/garage but within weeks it's full of carp and an extension is on the plans?
SWMBO left the washing basket in my garage because I had to concede to the washer and drier in the corner, and then she leaves the basket full of freshly tumbled dried clothers, while I was angle grinding in bliss I noticed the smoke build up, don't any of you go there especially when it's her clothes, it's like a bleedin horror story.
Result, hamering of ears, hammering of credit card to replace said burned items, and supply of time and transport to aid replacement, and thats not one trip boys!!, you wouldn't believe the amount of hassle it causes, and you would not belive how much stuff woman can get in a plastic basket (or so they say).
DON'T GO THERE, you have been warned. Keep the basket well away, make a stand at the early stages.
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Well, thanks for your replies and thoughts,
The road I've gone down is a ZF of a Vauxhall Omega, which apparently is the same case size etc as a ZF74, so i'm just in the process of adapting a mounting and hey ho hopefully it should be good will keep you posted.
Seems that the eleckys are still in their infancy, so to speak.
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Well what happened was last weekend, I did the Scorpion tail end challenge and on the Sunday early doors the pump packed up (V8 one) but just lately I've been watching the oil burners having a much superior steering effort than mine so I knew it's about time that things needed to improve, especially when doing a Challenge, because of the need for tight manouvering in places and not having to move the vehicle to enable the steering to turn, then just by SODS LAW me rolling it on Saturday because I couldn't turn fast enough, things had to be done, in retrospect the pump must have been nearly knackered then.
Following a bit of research I've got me self a 200 TDi pump which I know has a greater output and another more efficient ZF one again of an Omega which just needs a bit of mounting (one of the alternators sits above it on the right of the V8), then low and behold I find out there's an elecky one about that used a variable voltage and waveform for less effort at speed etc (which doesn't really matter) but is a bit amp thirsty approaching full lock (75 ish amps) so the thing must have a goodish output me thinks.
Don't want to go for the full hydro steer because I do drive it on the road as well occasionally, and I would imagine at normal roadspeeds you wouldn't need to run the electric pump anyway.
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Hi Guys,
Just been looking at a Vectra power steering pump which had me thinking as this thing runs on volts and not belts, and got to wondering, as you do, if it would do a Landy or not ?
Anybody had a go or know more than me about it ?
Boothy
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Les
Calling an "oil burner" block porn is in totally bad taste to me, and as for "sexy" well I ask you, now a V8 is a different thing altogether
but every man to his own I suppose
Looks good though
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Somehow I can't see a 200 TDi competing with them guy's Chris,
even if you turned the pump up you wouldn't see em for black smoke.
Could be fun though
Boothy out
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Hi lads,
I'm trying to get a mechanical capilery tempreture sender probe into the manifold in the position of the original elecy one, and it looks like I will have to get something made or look on the various websites to buy one in.
What's the thread size of the original sender that's in an efi manifold, I'm guessing its 3/8" UNC and me gauge I think is 3/8" BSP and very close but looks slightly bigger.
The probe has an nut located on the pipe, so the adaptor will have to be external to external (male to male).
Any acurate idea's guys please?
Cheers
Boothy
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While we are the subject of paint and guns,
"what's the best hardest wearing paint to use on my challenge truck so that it might still look something shiney every now and then?" this was the question I asked yesterday to my local paint supplier, who incidentally seems to know what he's on about.
His reply was "Epoxy", never heard of the stuff but apparantly it can be brushed, rolled or sprayed and stays shiney and is resistant to scratches etc. The only problem being after a long period in sunshine it may whiten slighty or appear powdery, but as mine lives in the garage most of it's time shouldn't be a problem. Cost is more or less no different than anything else. Mainly used on lorry chassis and hard wearing surfaces like that, plus the fact it shouldn't kill you when spraying it within reason (i.e. not 12 hours a day for life).
Any comments please boys.
Boothy
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Boothy here,
There will be no more questions regarding rear radiators from myself anymore because, to put it simply, we failed.
After spending last Saturday mounting the giant fan on the new Summit racing alloy rad, followed by mounting it onto the rear cage downrights, using rivnuts onto the top of my alloy chequerplate tank guard (tank is an alloy foam filled Escort M1/2 boot 12 gallon rally tank), standing back and thinking that's absolutely bl**dy perfect, all wired up and blowing like Billy Ho, and commenting that if the engine fails the fan will push it along like a florida swamp raft, all was now set to do the pipework.
Lots of time spent debating and aquiring the pipe, which in the end was food grade stainless steel "parlour pipe", used by dairies for transporting milk about, 3 x 10foot lengths of 1.5"pipe and an assortment of silicon hoses for the corners etc plus a box full of odds and sods hoses from allsorts, just in case.
Last job load the motor onto the trailer and 35 miles later arrive at John Sales (Saleys) workshop just outside Wigan, because he's jot a four post ramp which makes everything so much easier, especially when your older.
After 4 hours, loads of headscratching and many brews at Saleys we abondoned any hope of routing pipework to rear due to Boothys excellent hybrid build in the firstplace, (thats Boothys opinion, Saleys not commenting).
What I did was to keep the ex-Rangy chassis as tight as possible to the body and bulkhead etc and also with a full cage and 6mm outriggers sitting low on the chassis this makes the outside route of running nigh on impossible, the chassis itself is only 86" so its tight in other respects and its got a King cab (standard truck with a 8" extension and home made rear bulkhead), so the outside is out of the question, as is on top of the chassis rails, there's no room down the middle either, and defenitly no room through the inside, so we gave up.
The obvious answer is on the next chassis, build, plan and route pipe work at outset and not as an afterthought, before any placement of outriggers and bulkheads etc and life will be made so much easier.
So its 2x19 row coolers on the back, one for engine oil (in aeroquip), and one for the autobox, and then see how hot things are getting before deciding wether or not to put a sucker fan on them.
And the big sexy Chevy radiator has been grafted into the front, which in turn meant spacing the wings out by 5mm to make room and then lifting the grill panel up by 1" to accomodate it, which in turn leaves a nice gap at the sides between the wing and the bonnet which can only help cooling, the big fan fits snuggly on the inside and I will try it in a while to see if I've been successfull.
I will try and post some photo's if i can, but no winch cables are on at the moment and I'm still waiting for a hose to be delivered.
Thanks again for all your advice, but I'm now feel a failure and in need of comfort and confidence boosting again from her indoors that brews.
Cheers guys.
Boothy
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Boothy again,
Following advice which was greatfully recieved from you guys, I've had a great big eblag auction clearout to generate some funds for more bits,
Pugwash, Absolutely belting advice in the direction of Summit Racing, and hey presto 1x Chevy V8 racing alloy radiator arrived 2 days later, it's a joy to look at even if it doesn't do the job.
1x16" Pacet Pro fan sucking 3999 cubic metres/hour at only 13amps, this thing will move the Landy without the engine running and still room for a pair of Spal 10" suckers to, but I seriously don't think they will be required, the fans got some serious lungs on it.
Another 100amp alternator and a seperate 3rd Optima battery (only this ones a red top) on it's own independant system well away from the winch yellow tops, but I have put a large 250amp switch that can, if all goes belly up, connect the engine (red battery), to the yellow batteries (winch supply) for starting purposes.
Looks like I'm going to use 1.5" dairy pipe (milking parlour stainless) and run it down the outside of the chassis rails at the top, this might nessetate drilling through the the outrigger and migging a tube in that the cooling pipe will have to pass through because every thing looks a bit tight yet.
Finding the right tube is a right pain in the side, I was going to use hydraulic hose but got warned of because sometimes some black rubbery stuff comes off when it gets hot, which will kinda defeat the object if I coat the rad from the inside in something.
Had a look at Silicone but its far to expensive and only comes in 1metre lenghts which will mean loads of joints.
The other beauty of a V8 is an exhuast pipe running down the inside of both chassis rails which doesn't help.
Tonight's star question is "flow rate", will the standard water pump cope or not? and if not, does anybody recommend a electric pump and if so where from? and do you grind of the impellers from the standard one, or, cut out the shaft and alloy weld it up, if that's the case I will have to re-think me new second alternator pulley, again.
I relealise I will have to keep pipework as smooth as possible and limit corners etc.
I've also put (in the vast space behind the grill that I now find myself with) a new oil cooler bolted to the auto box cooler using the 12" fan that used to be on the front rad, so all in all it should run considerably cooler at times of grunt.
Thanks again for your much valued advice,
I've still got an eblag stockpile of bits if things to sell if it don't work right, its like a bank account the missus doesn't know about (I hope), it was for a new set of Simex'es so it looks like I'll be on the Insa special tracks for a while.
Cheers boys
Boothy
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Well Mr Turner, Boothy's not playing, he's not ready,
Been putting a big Chevrolet alloy radiator in the back and 2 alternators and it's nowhere near done yet.
Next year perhaps, have a great time time (and keep away from water, big banks, and deep mud and you may stand a chance
Boothy out
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Yep,
Know exactly what you mean about knobs in knackered motors (and I should say not every knackered motor is driven by a knob), saw exactly the same at Weston Coyney (Stoke on Trent) where they had allowed a standard Cavalier in, and for the life of me couldn't see why they had admitted it onto the site, but I suppose the arguement is, he'd paid his money.
While I was there over the edges there was a bump with lad in goodish Disco going upbank met by knob in knacked Samari coming downbank resulting in collision.
Absolutely nothing as far as I can see can you do without regulated and marshalled playgrounds I'm afraid, and don't use the ones where the lads just sit on the gate and take no interest about whats happening on the site untill its time for them to go home.
But in fairness its a big enough site to move out of the way of dickheads, where'as Hill'n'ditch isn't really, i was bored after an hour there.
Bigger site my friend, more room, more fun.
Good luck
Boothy
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Thanks again guys for all the advice,
After much time trawling scrapyards and the likes Pugwash comes up with an absolute barnstormer of a rad from Summit in the good old USA, which I've just ordered.
Now the thought behind this idea is to stick it in the back (after all) it can and should fit the front if not suitable at the back, if that fails it can always be sold or passed on to the Rangy boys (get the idea).
So going to pipe it to the back in 40mm Hydraulic pipe when it arrives, try the 2 Pacet fans at the back, lump a big engine oil cooler on the front, fan in the bonnet facing up, 2x100 amp alternators, Bobs yer Aunt Fanny = 30 bhp down.
But (here's the clever stuff,we think) the engine gets hot, the rad cools it, the hot air from the rad is now blown from the rad back to the engine, this makes engine hotter, which in turn makes rad hotter , which in turn makes engine hotter, and so on, (we think)
Now if we pipe hot water to back of vehicle and blow into fresh air this should make engine cool, and no crud laying on cores from swamp or mudbath should help the issue, plus winch bitch pratting around at back of vehicle with waffle boards etc will get addititional blast of hot air (this time not from driver, but from engine heat) should get a move on before he overheats, begins to sound good doesn't it?
Thats the thinking, I will post some photo's and let you know the results hopefully soon.
Boothy
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Here goes,
I greatfully thank you for all your advice so far.
BBC, What I have for a radiator is probably exactly as described by you,
the fans are controlled by two independant temp switches mounted in an alloy housing in the top hose, one for each fan the predominant being the one on the power steering pump and alternator side (ie nearside) this switches on at 88" down to 68 before going back to open circuit,
Its mate does 94" (I cannot do degree's thingys) down to 76,
both these fans have an LED on the dash when a supply is sent to the motor, they also have an OFF switch LED which the switches a large flashing LED on to remind me to turn the things back on again arter getting out of water,
dead easy wiring, virtually foolproof operation, and works a treat,
therefore I know which fan is ON, which fan is OFF and which fan has been turned OFF, plus if switch is turned OFF and LED does not flash then there's possibly a supply fault (i.e. fuse gone), hope that makes sense, it does to me.
But all that theory and wiring is carp if they don't cool it,
No i've not got an oil cooler for the sump and yes I know I should have, I will try to squeeze one in.
I spent a lot of time concerntrating on getting the 8274 motor right back behind the standard 90 grill, which resulted in hardly and space behind rad to water pump (which has had its shaft shortened at the end) and about 5mm between the winch motor and the front of the rad.
The two Pacet fans (I put down Fiamm earlier I'm sorry to Steve Hiatt) are very thin but apparantly have a very high output.
My temprature gauge is a Racetech capillery type, same as the oil pressure gauge.
The temprature it indicates agrees which the onset of the fans which is good and will work underwater, being mechanical is in my eyes infinitley more reliable for the circumstances the vehicle tends to find itself in (sounds posh that but it was a nice way of saying in the sh*t).
I think if I had a bigger rad or an alloy rad at the front now, I would struggle to fit in in around the winch etc and maybe the option is to rear mount it behind the truckcab (on the cage) hopefully in alloy with two Mondeo or Freight Rover fans in a proper cowl, the extra pipe work will vastly improve the capacity also, and stop it from getting clogged with god knows what,
mount behind the grill a big oil cooler using the one of the Facet fans to chill it, also increase the size of the autobox cooler at the same time (now having more room), and not be overly concerned if on the day it does get muddy at the front.
I could also sqeeze under the cage a deflector to push a bit of air down to the radiator whilst on the move.
Just the problem of will the water pump send it to the back and will 2" steam pipe or 2" hydraulic pipe do the job?
Fridge Freezer,
how do I put this,
the diesel boys get an stirring in their jockeys when the V8 blasts up a bank or a mud run (so do I), and never will I give up and go to diesel,
a good diesel reminds sounds like the dishwasher on an intensive wash (a constant clatter clatter clatter), no instant roar of life.
Keep the V8's burning, but not quite so hot!!!
Boothy, now deeper in thought.
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Thanks Paul,
On the road it holds it own with temp but gets warm when sitting, about 90" with both fans running but once it gets hot its just very hard to cool it again, could'nt touch the bonnet a Tong yesterday, proper hot, and I've got 12 2"holes in the bonnet sides to aid a bit.
The only problem with front mounted is I spent ages moving the rad right back so i've got the 8274 motor behind the standard 90 grill which gives me a great approach angle but not much room (and then you wonder why you've got problems) but i will try a bloody big fan at the front perhaps even without a cowling.
Thanks Pete for the link its good, mind numming but good, but the question was never answered "did it work or not?"
Thanks guys
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Don't you start
I know the obvious answer is to fit oil burner,
but it a bit like Barbican, its not got the punch even though it seems the same.
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Hi guys,
I'm getting massive problems trying to cool my V8 which is in a 86" 90 fronted hybrid which I use for challenges amongst other things, problems being I'm killing it with heat and not being able to cool it.
V8 90 radiator (kept clean after every event) 2x12" fiamm fans (supposed to be the dogs danglies) pulling from the rear with a cowl both run constantly when warm.
2nd brand new waterpump (just in case first one was carp) no airlocks, 14 degrees ignition advance, mallory electronic dizzy and coil kit, Mark Adams Tornado based chipped with C/O of 2.5 runs absolutely cracking dead crisp and sweet.
Its about 4.4 litre and only just rebuilt but has done a couple of hundred hours now, big torquey cam, gas flowed etc.
OK on the road for normal journeys, OK for playing and trialling,
But gets very hot when winching or getting proper stuck and pulling etc when temp goes up fans will not cool unless get out and about in fresh air for a drive.
Options move rad to back and use a big alloy rad on the back of truckcab with fans on, any ideas please boys?
Pro's and cons, know all about mud cannot get to the back and air cannot flow very well on the road (which is seldom), pipes underneath can get burst, winch can come back a bit into grill.
The bit that bugs me is how do i stop it airlocking and how will the water pump cope and is there an advantage of using a electric waterpump if so what happens to the original , what type of pipe and diameter is best, will it improve being an alloy rad and will it help in the back because of a bigger rad and further to pipe so more chance of cooling.
Last question which rad and fans to use?
Lots of questions but lots of problems and I feel sure I'm not the first with them.
Thanks for any help or advice, but it doing me bleedin box in.
Boothy
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First one with the BIG boys and thoroughly enjoyed it, just had problems with overheating and little power to recharge winches so had to use them very conservatively and quickly before it overheated again, spent loads of time sitting in the pond cooling it off.
Twin alternators and big alloy rad in the back for next time (if she lets me out again), be prepared Saley were off again.
Thanks to all involved, definitly a great day out.
Boothy and son
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Is there a restriction for big smokey dirty oil burners
with a pair of wellies sticking out of the bonnet?
Morning gents
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Sorry if you've read this post in members vehicles, I put it in the wrong place yesterday,
Just wondering if anyone had used the Jag version of the 4speed ZF non electric autobox (apparently used in some big BMW's, Volvo's and Pugeots also),
Benefits being, probably done less work, greater availability, chances of finding low mileage ones increased, and possibly built to stand more horses/torque that the big Jags have etc.
From what I can gather they are all the same ratio's, most of them start start to delvelop clutch band problems after 140Kish miles and the Jag breakers have a surplus of the things stating that " they rarely fail, so no call for em", making them cheap!!!
Anybody had a go or are more in the know than me, I can't see a reason with the exeption of the rear output flange (will it interchange?) why it wont work?
I've got to change mine again because it let go Sunday playing, so I can only pull away when locked down in 1st gear and then move up the gears as and when, but every time it stops back down to first again, it's the classic fault apparantly of when the sprag clutch goes and slips or inverts.
Over to you folk's
Boothy
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Saley,
is it worth me getting a hotel or not ?, just wondering if you were going to last more than an hour this time!!
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Plenty of burned winch motors today, the going was very soft as were the Boothy's,
Retired after losing alternator followed by voltage to create spark, fans come on=spark goes off,
result back on trailer by 1.30hrs, sausages cooked by 1.45hrs = sorted.
New alternator fitted 18.30hrs, ready for Ashbourne playday tomorrow, hell I need the practice.
Well done to everybody today, marshalls, organisers, etc but especially to the finishers with the big points.
Boothy out (but ready for the next round)
Megasquirt v Emerald
in International Forum
Posted
Just to stop any confusion, it was not Emerald 3D who called Megasquirt, it was some of the lads I knock about with that are tuning their own race cars locally to where I live.
Very fair and sensible comments Tom G, thanks.
Boothy