miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Your truck would of been drum and 200tdi originally so you could have a disc converted Salisbury, a disc Salisbury from another truck or a disc rover axle. So first we need to work out what axle you have. If the diff pan is bolt on its a Salisbury if it's welded on and looks the same as the front it's rover. Do the calipers have any spacers between the caliper and bolt on Mount and is the mount welded or bolted on.
Mike
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I haven't bought mags for years for the same reasons as most. I predominantly read here but I have to say I really miss the days of jez and Dan building great stuff and writing about it. No offence to those on here that do a great job of restoring or rebuilding but I don't find it interesting. It seems to me due to trend and legislation we are stuck with the same thing over and over.
Mike
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I have the same as Ralph work well definitely brighter and seem a little more robust. I had to use the supplied bullet connectors but ended up replacing half of them while fitting as they were cheap and didn't cripples nicely.
Mike
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A man who gave so much to our hobby/way of life he will be missed.
Mike
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It's funny we (shirelrc) have been criticised in the past for being heavy on rules and have suffered with bad turn outs because of this. But our P&P days have always been aimed at responsible off roaders in road legal motors who want to play as hard or soft as they want.
Mike
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A tip for cleaning threads:
Use an old bolt of the correct size put a cut in it about 5-10mm long and 1-2mm deep along the length at the tip. Wined in and out the crud will fill the cut job done. To check you have the right thread compare diameter of the bolts then press the threaded part of each bolt together if they match (you will feel/see them rocking it not) job done just be careful some threads are the same on different diameter bolts.
Mike
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It could be a leak between the block and timing chest as that bolt goes through the cover and chest into the block. I know the area between block and chest does have oil in it so I suggest you leak is there and tracking down the stud. If it was me I would pull the stud clean it put some sealant round it and put it back. Then next time you have the timing belt off replace the block to chest gasket while your at it.
Mike
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Fiberglass is no problem cut out the hole with a jigsaw aluminium blade works well. Drill the holes to correct size and lightly countersink the smooth side. Apply sealant fit and rivet up. I've no experience with said roofs but I am a boat builder.
Mike
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The battery light should stay on for a few seconds until the alternator energizer.
Mike
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Or use the military snow covers. I keep meaning to get some. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371338735160
Mike
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I had something similar a while ago it turned out to be the ignition switch itself.
Mike
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Here here.
Mike
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The screen came via premier autoglaze but he sourced it elsewhere. The problem I had was I have to have the correct E Mark on the glass for the IVA otherwise I could of got it from any glaziers.
Arjan are you sure you can't get ibex there as I know foers build trucks for export to just about anywhere. Granted it would probably have to be a new build by foers but not the end of the world just more expensive.
Mike
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For the first time in a year I got to spend a day on the ibex. It's currently stored at a friends but at some point I need to bring it home however it will be outside when it gets here. Cue a day spent getting it water tight. So windscreen in though I'm not happy with it I ordered an E marked laminated 6mm screen to my template..... 6 months later I got an E marked 4mm toughened screen so I'm going to fit it for the IVA then change it later. Next I fitted door seals they are the ones from the disco so not quite long enough but will do for now. Finally I fitted the door window frames I've glued them in on sikaflex so there's no fixings hopefully this will make it watertight.
Not sure when I'm likely get any more done but it's progress all the same.
Mike
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The only other thing to add about km2's is unlike km1's they seem to wear quite quickly to start with. At first this worried me as bfg have a reputation for legendary mileage however the wear seemed to just stop. I guess they use soft rubber on the outside to get through the noise regs.
Mike
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I also have km2's that have done around 50k and still have plenty of tread. Although mine are 285/75x16. We have km1 on the other one done who knows how many miles as I bought them second hand. They are 255/85x16. I love both sets they are well behaved on the road (the only time you remember they are muds is heavy braking in the wet and then they are predictable). They are a little noisy the km2 are quieter. I think they are the best normal mud tyre off road. It would take something pretty amazing for me to buy anything else now.
Mike
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3 hours ago, deep said:
So that's at least six different "standard" sizes around the world and even up to four in one country? I love that! That's not including the NATO hitch on my 110 and whatever the Russians use...
And two sizes of pin type hitch.
Nato and commercial (about a 19mm pin).
Mike
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I'd definitely run it continually and watch the temperature as if it gets to cold it will freeze and not work. It doesn't need to get that cold before it freezes either.
Mike
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I think the yanks still use a 2" ball but I suspect it's a rtfm issue.
Mike
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I'm not taking this personally. I have aired down however in the UK off roading is predominantly for fun and short. Out of a 100 mile greenlane trip your likely to do 60 miles on road. A site day there is only likely to be 10% of the site where airing down will make any difference. So yes I'm lazy and don't bother but I also don't bother to drive some where I'm going to spend 4 hours trying to get out of.
It does work and makes a big difference but I would only use it on prolonged off road use and probably only drop to 20 psi.
Mike
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My brother took a car to sva but forgot to tighten his nuts. Half way there a wheel came off all four nuts were a hundred yards back up the road! Glad your OK.
Mike
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10 hours ago, Tal said:
Sounds good to me, I get the feeling its something like that here but I had to email some government department and I havent heard back yet.
What sort of welding are you doing on your trailer, it looks like MMA but if you have a powerful enough MIG, and it is very neat welding, it could easily be that too
There is an IVA manual and test for building trailers in UK.
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-manual-for-categories-01-02-03-and-04-trailers
Mike
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The only time I've aired down was in Russia at ladoga. The main reason is I can't be bothered and I have no sensible way of pumping them back up. Don't get me wrong it works I know that but we punched 3 tyres off rims in the space of 2 miles. We were running 16psi and believe me putting a tyre back on full of mud, in a rut with an electric compressor is not my idea of fun.
Mike
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I'd do as tsd says but would also put a dehumidifier in there if you can get one. We had two running in a 50 foot boat for 2 months and drained 120 litres of water out.
Mike
Brake disc dimensions
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I though 300tdi wasn't till 95 but I'll stand corrected however it is old enough to of had an axle change so I'll stand by the rest.
Mike