miketomcat
-
Posts
5,498 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
144
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by miketomcat
-
-
I replaced the thermostat in an effort to reduce the running temp, but it's made no difference. I know the guage is fairly accurate as the electric fan keeps coming on which it didn't before so it's definitely running warmer. It is possible the thermostat housing is leaking as the new gasket didn't seal. I ended up reusing the original gasket however I'm fairly sure it's good.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Ok so I've established I'm stripping the other engine as soon as I can.
However I need to prolong the one in there for now. Prior to the head gasket going it ran fine but smoked a little. Since replacing it I came back from Scotland fine, but it's now getting a bit warm at random occasion. It seems to take a long time to warm up but once it does it settles just above half way (it was just below half way before). However it seems to increase when in traffic or under load but once moving again it comes down a bit. It does use a bit of water but I'm not sure if this is being blown out or going into the bores again. The cooling system doesn't seem to have excessive pressure but is elivated due to running hot. I've replaced the thermostat.
It almost feels like the impeller has come off the water pump, but that was new when we fitted this engine.
Mike
-
Thank you gents for the reality check, I will be collecting the other engine soon and will see what I find.
Mike
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, L19MUD said:
Also had this with a partially blocked oil filter. Changed oil and filter and it went away
Changing the oil/filter made no difference hence I pulled the engine out.
1 hour ago, Eightpot said:Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, I don't know if you have a pressure guage or are relying on a blinking oil pressure warning lamp?
My old safari truck in africa started flashing the oil pressure warning lamp very convincingly for a while which had me thinking the worst - turned out to be a bad sender thankfully - always nice when its the cheap fix 🙂
Whilst I love your optimism I'm really not that lucky. I didn't check it with a guage but I'm fairly confident in the diagnosis as the exact same symptoms happened with our 110 shortly after the cam snapped.
Mike
-
1
-
-
A conversation with nonimouse I while ago lead me to believe it maybe possible to replace the cam bearings without a full strip down. As has been suggested I think I need to get it here and apart enough to see what's what.
Mike
-
1
-
-
To be honest I kind of knew the answer before I posted just wanted a reality check. If I had the money I would recon and go, but I don't so was looking at options. The biggest issue is it's my daily and I was hoping the current engine would buy me a year or two.
Mike
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Daan said:
Sounds like a no brainer to me. I mean if I speak to you in 20 years time, I'd say you still have your Ibex. How many more engine changes are you expecting to do. Just sort it out now once and for all.
Daan
It's only a no brainer if you can afford it, which I can't.
Mike
-
1
-
-
That's about the numbers I thought it would be. Thank you.
Mike
-
1
-
-
@western did you rebuild yours yourself or get a recon block. If the former what sort of cost was it.
Mike
-
My biggest concern with rebuilding any of them is cost. I really can't afford for it to cost much more than £300-400 less if possible.
@rusty_wingnut fittting a 300 is not going to happen.
Firstly I'd need to buy one and a gearbox then I'd need new engine mounts, radiator and exhaust.
Second a 300 is no better than a 200, no better on fuel and no more powerful. Yes there's more of them but they still have a set of standard problems just different ones to the 200.
Mike
-
I have a bit of a conundrum. The ibex has a discovery 200tdi in it, the original engine went well with not issues till I started getting low oil pressure. I suspect the cam bearings have moved but haven't checked. So I removed that engine, threw together a bitsa and fitted it. Said engine blew a head gasket on holiday, which I changed and drove home. Since then I've done some towing and I've just come back from Silverstone on both occasions it ran warmer than I'm comfortable with and it's smoking more than my mot man maybe happy with. I suspect it has a broken ring but not sure that explains the elevated temperature. I'm tight on budget and time so a full rebuild looks to be un-likely.
Do I,
A, replace the cam bearings without line boring so I don't have to fully strip it. Whilst there check as much as possible and re-fit.
B, replace the rings on this engine Insitu and hope for the best.
C, find another 200 TDI fit that or find a disco and grab the gearbox as well given mines tired.
I know which is quickest but it's potentially an unknown engine, doing cam bearings would mean I could nurse the current engine for now or do rings but it means the truck off the road for a bit.
Mike
-
I might be wrong but I thought at some point land rover made calipers the same across the range but that may of been just defender. It would of been around 300tdi td5.
From memory the bolt pattern is the same but off set isn't, I have two 110 rear calipers with different offsets but I don't know what year the newer one is. But as Mossberg says why upgrade? Unless you have massive non standard front brakes upgrading the rear may result in locking the rear often. The brakes on all land rovers are good assuming they work correctly. I normally find I loose traction (mud tyres) long before I get brake fade.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Not that I can afford it, have space for it or have other projects in line. The wife would kill me and bury the bits in the woods........ So when do we go.
Seriously though it has lots of potential but needs to be stripped and start again. It also looks like it needs IVA.
Mike
-
1
-
1
-
-
26 minutes ago, muddy said:
Id say 3-6mm depending how rocky your terrain is. I had to weld my chassis bottoms up at least once a year do to peeling them open on rocks or replacing bits of trailing arm ears where they had bent up badly, it doesn't need to survive a landmine and it doesn't matter if it dents its just to stop you smashing the bottom to bits by catching it on stuff, @miketomcat didnt you once smash a PTO drop box off?
Two plain hinges at the front (20mm? bar?) and a M16 on each side just infront of the rear arms would make it hinge down to wash out. This all depends entirely on how rough you intend to be I completely understand but I think Sid is likely to see more abuse than Mikes ibex or Eds 110 for example?
I've never hit the PTO drop box even though it hangs below the chassis. Whilst Sid will undoubtedly be used harder than mine or Ed's neither of us are known for holding back. 45 on the other hand was used to the point of serious damage at Ladoga. However all of the damage was to the chassis and cross members, I never wished I'd fitted a belly pan.
Mike
-
1
-
-
What he said ^^^^
The only guard I have on the ibex is a tank guard and that's because it doubles as a removable tow bar arrangement, the tank it's self is 3mm stainless so it doesn't need it.
Mike
-
We need pictures or it didn't happen.
Mike
-
25 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:
... and here's one I prepared earlier.
Mo
I've also had the other end punch through to.
Mike
-
All I'll say is read this.
a perfect example of why you have a standard truck or standard parts on it for overlanding. Currently my ibex has just water in it and a temporary bolt in the inlet manifold......nuff said.
Mike
-
51 minutes ago, L19MUD said:
Glad I'm not the only one that has happened to!
I've had it twice I've also had the pin shear off to.
Mike
-
This can happen to.
Mike
-
I did notice straight away and was going to comment....until I realised I'm very late to the party.
Mike
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, cackshifter said:
If you take the body off whole, you can inspect the bulkhead closely, and swap or refurbish it while the body is off. If yours is in good shape why not get it blasted and galved rather than buy a new one if you can spare the time.
I would be very careful removing the bulkhead from a body already off a chassis as it will have very little structural integrity.
Mike
-
2
-
-
15 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I like that it needs clarifying what the jack is used for:
It is for sale in the us
Just to give this some perspective $475k doesn't buy you much more than a 60 foot yacht second hand and that will cost you another $20k in mooring fees and essential maintenance each year. Before you go anywhere and put fuel in it. Suddenly it doesn't look so bad
. However it does still look like a grey fire engine 
.
Mike
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
They might but in my 30 plus years of off roading I've never seen or heard of it, the reality is lots of things can happen, unexplained things can happen, you can plan for most but not all, we all take chances pushing our vehicles, the best we can do is regular maintenance and thorough checks
Bump stops might split with age, but if they do I have not been looking after my vehicle and will deserve the consequences
Regards Stephen
I was only making the point that you've already allowed for with your lowered bump stops.
. However it does still look like a grey fire engine 
.
200tdi not well
in International Forum
Posted
I fitted a new Ali radiator at the same time as this engine. Thanks @monkie I should have a water pump here, failing that I can rob the one off the other engine.
It's typical I won't risk using the ibex for towing at the moment so I've got a fair bit to do, looks like the 110's getting a work out.
Mike