PaulMc
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Posts posted by PaulMc
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My main areas of cluelessness are:
- How do you make a sliding door so that it is secure and can be locked/unlocked from either side
You can get mortice locks for sliding doors, like this Chubb model, which you can buy keyed-alike -
Chubb 3M50 Sliding Door Lock
http://www.locksonline.co.uk/acatalog/Slid...oor_Locks_.html
I would have one a quarter of the way up from the bottom of the door and another (keyed-alike) a quarter of the way down from the top of the door.
Another idea is to have locking bolts top and bottom of the door, that lock into the concrete floor and the head of the door frame, like these -
Pacri Garage Door Lock
http://www.locksonline.co.uk/acatalog/Pacr..._Door_Lock.html
Yet another idea is to have the sliding door secured on the inside with hasp/staple/padlock and/or padlocking bolts into the concrete floor and the head of the door frame, with access to/from the alley through a wicket door in the sliding door. The wicket door would have a Yale cylinder lock and/or mortice deadlocks which would enable pedestrian access from the alley to go inside the garage and unlock the main sliding door for vehicle access, like this -
My main areas of cluelessness are:- Suggestions for cladding/roofing materials
I would suggest box-profile metal sheeting, which can also incorporate translucent sheets for natural light. Another, cheaper, alternative is PVC or GRP sheets, which can also incorporate translucent panels.
I bought mine from this lot -
Their products were OK, but they were a bunch of dozy muppets to deal with
Paul.
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Be careful about the interior dimensions exceeding 30m2 and, because of the materials you're using, the building's proximity to the boundary with your neighbours.
The local council where I used to live (Bexley) have this to say about detached garages -
A detached garage is a garage which is structurally unconnected to a dwelling and is used for the storage of cars.
An application is not required if the detached (single-storey) building contains no sleeping accommodation, has a floor area not exceeding 30 square metres and is either:
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constructed substantially of non-combustible material, or
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at any point, greater than one metre from any boundary.
If the detached building has a floor area exceeding 30 square metres then it is necessary to make an application to Building Control.
I think that these restrictions apply nationwide (unless you live in a conservation area, when there are even more restrictions).
When I built a detached garage at my last house, I ensured that it was under 30m2 internally (6.5m x 4.5m) and under 3m high, so I didn't bother involving planning or building control as I was exempt from their interference.
Unfortunately, one of my neighbours decided that the garage was too high and was spoiling her view (this was when it was still walls and before I'd put the roof on) and went around getting-up a petition and complaining to the council.
I had a visit from a sad little man from building control who tried telling me all sorts of cr@p as to why I couldn't have a garage the size it was (he'd 'phoned beforehand to make an appointment to come and look at the garage, so I'd prepared myself by printing-off all the guidelines from their website which confirmed I was within my permitted development rights) so I was able to counter all of his fatuous arguments, EXCEPT the one about proximity to the boundaries. This meant that I couldn't have a boarded and felted roof as this was considered too flammable, so I said I would cover the roof with box-profile metal sheeting and that was his last objection shot-down.
I never had any more bother from the council after that. The neighbours, however, are another story
Paul.
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constructed substantially of non-combustible material, or
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Those studs that Streaky has ^^^^ could be Series ones as their not in the electronic parts cat for Defenders.
FRC7577 - They're the longer (heavy duty) Defender wheel studs - listed for Defender XD (Wolf), Armoured applications and 130 - BUT, they don't appear in EPC, Microcat or the Defender XD parts book
As far as I'm aware, the Heavy Duty 110, the 130 and the production XD (Wolf) all had (have) the standard wheel stud FRC5926 - and later - RUF000020 fitted.
A single FRC7577 from a Land Rover dealer will cost you £15.85 incl. VAT
- A considerably cheaper BritPart version is available.L. R. Series list the Genuine Part cheaper than a main dealer, as well as the BritPart version - http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...WHEEL-STUD.html
Paul.
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Quite a while ago I remember seeing somebody selling a modified spare wheel carrier, I think it was for a Discovery Td5, to fit up to 35" tyres on the rear door and still clear the bumper, basically it was like the standard carrier but "swept up" so the actual mounting point was a bit higher.
BogMonster,
Have a look at this thread (especially the 2nd post
)http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6319
Paul.
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EPC says 4 x M12 x 120mm LR part BH112157 to attach a NATO pintle to a 90/110 rear crossmember.
Not to forget - 2 x nuts per bolt AND the appropriate reinforcing and spreader plates either side of the rear crossmember -
Details here - NATO Pintle & Socket.pdf
Paul.
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My front prop has a knackered UJ so rather than just replace it I was thinking about changing the propshaft. Does any old Disco 2 fit a 110? or am I after something specific?
Will
My mate has just fitted a Discovery II double-cardan front propshaft to his 2" lifted RRC. The double-cardan end (at the transfer 'box) has a bigger diameter flange than the normal LR flange, so he had to fit a new Discovery II front output flange to his transfer 'box, which cost him about £75 from a main dealer.
He's got a BW viscous transfer 'box on his RRC and the new flange was a straight swap, it should also be a straight swap on an LT230.
To ensure that the sliding joint remained somewhere in the middle of it's travel, he also fitted a Wizardbilt 15mm propshaft spacer at the axle end flange -
Paul.
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had to take a series roof and sides back in the van for my mate £40, good carp!
Marcus - Was that you dismantling the swb hardtop sides from the roof on the grass just outside the showground entrance gate?
I've been going to the sortout twice a year for a number of years and I reckon that this was the biggest and busiest yet. There appeared to be more stalls and more buyers than ever, including one or two of little or no Land Rover content.
It's starting to get difficult to get around all of the stalls and have a proper rummage before sellers start packing up to leave.
I think that the Old Sod has seriously got to think about either an earlier start or making it a weekend event.
On the plus side - I got a few of the odds and ends I was looking for and my mate got most of the stuff he was looking for.
Paul.
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I remember a while ago seeing a tow bar on a landy that had a secrew thread adjuster for vertical movement.
Has anyone got and info or pictures on this type of hitch ?
Thanks
That sounds like the PeterLea towing bracket made by the Peter J Lea Company.
I don't know if they're still in business as their website, which I have in my bookmarks - http://www.peterlea.com/ doesn't work anymore
A quick Google came up with these contact details -
Peter J Lea & Co Ltd
Car Towing Bracket Manufacturers
Address: Peterlea Works, Shaw Road South, Stockport, Cheshire, SK3 8JG, UK
Telephone: 01614747966
Fax: 01614804104
Paul.
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Just doing final tests for MOT. Testing the indicators and flashed about 4 times then stopped (hazards don't work either now). Don't think it is the fuse as stop lights OK and apparently on same fuse, so suspect the relay as the only other common part.
When I find the relay I will also double check for 12v
But... where is it? Vehicle is an '88 V8 110.
Thanks.
It's in the fusebox, behind the fuse panel.
You'll need to undo the two screws holding the fuse box panel to the bulkhead to enable access to the flasher relay.
Paul.
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Autosparks sell a kit to replace the glass fuse fusebox with the blade fuse version.
I haven't fitted one myself (yet), but I had a look at the kit on their stand at one of the shows and it looked pretty good.
Details here -
Landrover 90/110 20-Way Fusebox ( for Blade Fuses ) Complete with Terminals - LRA111
Paul.
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In my 110 hardtop, I've mounted my Jackall across the bulkhead behind the seats, using Jackall's optional mounting kit. This would also work for a 90 pickup (truck cab?).
In this position, the jack is secure, (mostly) out of site to inquisitive eyes and as dry as anything inside a Land Rover can be.
Paul.
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I bought a crimping tool and dies from a German seller called 'Rocking.George' on eBay, here are his current listings -
http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZrocking.george
He sells three types, 4 to 70mm2, 16 to 240mm2 and 10 to 300mm2
I bought the 4 to 70mm2 kit (which he doesn't currently have on sale), the details are -
Hydraulic crimping tool for cable sizes from 4-70 mm²
Heavy duty version, pressure 8 tons, see picture!
For electrical cables copper or aluminium compression terminal joints
Best quality, see my feedbacks! 14 days money back guarantee!
Pressure 8 tons. This tool is new, absolutely ok and delivered in a solid plastic box.
Specification
Designed for aluminium or copper compression joints, size 4-70mm²
Max Working Pressure: 8 Tons
Max Working Stroke: 22mm
Plastic Box size: 300mm x 170mm x 80mm Weight 8kg
Included dies: 4, 6, 8, 10, 16, 25, 35, 50 and 70mm²
Rotational Head for easy handling
Also included is a set of new seals just in case the originals were to leak.
It's Chinese made, but it does the job.
I'm really pleased with it.
Paul.
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The Defender XD Parts Book lists the Header Rail as RRC8597
The same part number is listed in the Sept. 2006 Microcat for civilian 90/110 soft-tops with vinyl hoods (the header rail for canvas soft-tops is a different part number)
RRC8597 is listed at £104
Paul.
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Going to build a new garage/workshop just looking for idea's
cheers muddydisco
At my last house I built a garage approx 6.5m long x 4.5m wide x 3.0m high at the end of my back garden.
A garage of this size - 30m2 internal area x 3.0m overall height with a flat roof (or 4.0m overall height with a pitched roof) and constructed of mostly non-combustible materials, can be built without planning permission or building control interference in most areas of the country. There are some exceptions, so best to check with your local authority planning dept.
Here are some pictures of my old garage after I moved my 110 and cleared all of my old carp valuable stuff
to my new house.
I built it like this so that I could move my 110 on to the hard-standing in the garden and get my Range Rover in for servicing, etc...
Had we not moved, I would have put a clear plastic car port roof over the hard-standing and a clear plastic roof and sides to the walled area immediately behind the garage.
Here's a picture of my lovely 12' x 7' shed that I had to leave behind
My wife (in one of the pictures with our collie puppy) thought I was very sad taking pictures of my garage and shed before we left. Women just don't understand!
These 2 pictures are of the end of my new garden, I'm currently in the process of applying for permission to build a garage 7.0m wide x 7.0m long (internally) x 3.0m high.
It will be the full width of the garden, starting at the dashed line in picture 1 and built out to the dashed lines in picture 2
I'm hopeful that I can start building it this summer. I'll post some pictures when it gets underway.
Paul.
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Use the existing transporter tie-down rings to fill the space or this washer WC110061L
the Jates will fit then, bolt should be just tight enough to move the jate ring by reasonable hand pressure.
Have a look here @ page 58 & 59 in .pdf format
jate ring RRC3237
bolt BH110281L
spacer WC110061L
nut nyloc NY110041L
You beat me to it Ralph - You must be as busy at work as I am
Paul.
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I recently bought a set of Genuine Parts JATE rings (Part No RRC3237) intending to fit them to the rear of my '02 110. When I offer them up it's obvious they're too wide, although they are the same as the set I have on the front. I presume it's unwise to pack them with washers, in which case does anyone know the correct part?
Thanks,
Phil.
The chassis is narrower at the back of the vehicle and the JATE rings are packed with thick M10 washers - 10mm hole, 24mm outside diamenter, 2mm thick.
These washers are 'M10 Flat Washer, Form C' available from any proper fastener supplier, or they can be ordered from a Land Rover dealer as WC110061L
See pic -
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I haven't got a 130
- but I saw this ex-BBC outside broadcast unit on eBay a while back and kept the pictures -
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he's painted it at last!!!
Ralph... any idea where Graham got those flip-down rear steps from? he's got 2 on each side.
Albert Jagger sell them - Cab & Body Fittings, Steps catalogue (3 pages) - AJ_Steps.pdf
Commercial Body Fittings also sell them - Steps Catalogue (2 pages) - CBF_Steps.pdf
Paul.
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A few squids sent.
It might be an idea to make the 'Funding' option a bit more prominent, I'd not noticed it before now.
Another idea is to do what ORRP do and have 'Supporting Member' or some such title or emblem under the members name/avatar, this would raise awareness of how the forum is funded.
This 'Badge of Honour' could be graduated - Bronze, Silver or Gold, depending on the level of donation and would last for 12 months from the day of donation, to encourage donation next year.
Paul.
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Hobsons Industries in Louth, Lincs. - Hobsons Industries have, for the past couple of years, been selling ex-MoD, N.I., 110 Armoured Patrol Vehicle, Salisbury front axles for about £600 (I think
).For this money, as well as the complete front axle with hubs, calipers, discs, halfshafts, etc..., they include the double-cardan front prop., the heavy duty radius arms and Panhard rod.
Paul.
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Ah Tony
When you have a moment can you please see if there is a blank panel for the 2002 Defender Dash.My base model came with the tray,
but i wondered if there was a blank panel available for it so that I can fit my winch switches to it.
Thanks in advance
Steve
I fitted the Eaton/Durite Modular Rocker Switches from VWP with their bezel/surrounds into the radio panel -
Paul.
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My mate recently bought one of these off eBay for £233.00 -
It's exactly the same as the 12000 lbs models of T-Max, Champion, Endurance winches.
The seller http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/sportsshop_de/ has quite a few listed, the one in the link above finishes at 19:28 today and is currently (18:28) at £150.00
Paul.
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Hi guys, hope your all well, i have seen somewhere chequer plate door cards for military type doors, but cannot remember for the lif of me where
any help would be appreciated im going to be tidying my cabof the hybrid up This is the only one I've seen - Checkmate Door Kit
Paul.
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We have a couple of pricate carparks at work and as you'd expect in the middle of town, we've got a few cars that illigally park there.
We need to get a clamp, a decent beefy one, like the councils use to immobilise cars.
anyone any idea where to get one from? we've tried machine mart but they only do flimsy little ones that you'd use on a caravan.
I've not got the time to make one, so really need to get one off the shelf.
cheers!
Have a look at this place -
Saunderson Security - Wheel Clamps
They sell the clamps the professionals use.
My mate is a Bailiff, he uses the 'London Police Clamp' and the 'London Triangle Clamp'.
The debtors rarely get them off or drive away with them fitted, but when they've tried, they've trashed their car doing so
Paul.
- A considerably cheaper BritPart version is available.
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to my new house.
).
When you have a moment can you please see if there is a blank panel for the 2002 Defender Dash.
any help would be appreciated
Shed plans Mk2 - with added CAD
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Domestic appliances HAVE NO PLACE in a man's garage
... except for a fridge - to contain ONLY milk for tea/coffee, snacks and beers
Paul.