Chicken Drumstick

There could be several things going on here. 1. They just are noticing it, or don't want to say they are. 2. Engine specs might be different. And not all Tdi's are equal. You get some that run very well and some that don't. And the ones that don't will never make the same power, no matter what you do to them. 3. Most 35" tyres we get in the UK are actually more like 33" or just under if you measure them. 4. 5th gear ratio has changed over the years, so may have some impact. 5. All up weight and gear, if you have a roof rack, water tank and loads of other stuff, it'll impact performance and aerodynamics. 6. Are you sure they are all running stock diffs? 7. Why do you think you need 35" or 285/75 tyres anyway?

My brother runs a similar setup in his 90. High speed cruising is not so advised as you will be running the engine at high rpm for long periods. However short bursts will be no problem. 60-65mph is more the cruising speed. 65mph being the higher. I'll check rpms for you later on. The 1.6 will make it very peppy. And very tractable in all gears. And be good for towing, hence why the Army used the 1.6:1 transfer box. A 1.4 will give it longer legs and it'll be perfectly good for all things. But you will feel like it's lost it's peppyness by comparison. If you want a stop gap between a 1.4 or an over drive, try some 255/85R16 tyres.

Can't believe it's down as the model is it? I suppose calling them 4C's is fine so long as we also use 8C, 6C and 5C. But it's a rather non descript way of citing a model.

I've always used AWG....

+1 to all of this. A mechanical pump can not do much with it's fuel mapping and only make simple adjustments. Anything ECU controlled will be more dynamic. So I suspect it was easier to map the auto Tdi's to make a little more power (to gain performance as they are massively sluggish) but retain very similar emissions to the manual. I can see the appeal of EDC units. Even more so as you can get them to produce more power easily these days (harder in times past). But I guess most people don't really care about emissions when modding. So it's not really needed. Although mpg might end up being better with one. @Troll Hunter Torque converters can act as torque multipliers. Essentially allowing the engine to spin at a higher rpm than the output shaft of the torque converter. This means you can get more Horse Power at the wheels for a given rpm. Although torque converters aren't as efficient, so the trade off isn't quite as clear cut vs a manual. Drag racers use this effect very well, they might have a torque converter that allows them to rev the engine to 3500rpm while remaining stationary. This means when they leave the line, the engine will be at 3500rpm instead of tickover. So more power at the wheels. If that makes sense. You can feel this sensation in an automatic car when you pull away, the first moment of movement is often quite sharp and the car can easily lurch forward. You can feel it when the transmission up shifts too. Just after the new gear is selected. It's only brief as standard torque convertors don't have a very high stall speed. Engine power however from car makers is always rated at the crank/flywheel. So there will not be a torque convertor to contend with.

+1 on jump leads. If you are running electrical appliances, then yes, be aware of the size and condition of your battery and the amp draw of the appliance. No point draining the battery by accident.

Off topic, but were is the nomenclature of "4C" coming from for Land Rovers??? Wouldn't worry about the glow plugs, Tdi's will start without them pretty much. If you find you need them, it's just a 12v feed. So easiest way is wire them in direct yourself with a momentary button of your choosing (and maybe a relay ). No need for a timer or anything complex.

The A303 can be horridly busy though and while it has pretty scenery & sights, it's not much of a drivers road. If you want a roadtrip, the Northern 500 in Scotland looks good. https://www.visitscotland.com/see-do/tours/driving-road-trips/north-coast-500/

I suspect they word it quite accurately. An 8.5" rim is not an 8" rim. Not matter how you try and twist it. Personally I'm perfectly fine with running a 12.50 tyre on an 8" rim. But you can't ignore the fact it is outside the tyre makers published and endorsed guidelines. So I was merely pointing out, that should you be in an accident and someone notices this, then it could 'potentially' throw a spanner in the works. That said, I think there is only so much to gain by sticking with an 8" rim vs 10" in this situation. As a rule you want the wheels out for better steering lock. But the rim width won't be the bit that restricts this, it'll be the tyre hitting the radius arm. A 10" rim also isn't going to make the tread noticeably wider either. It'll just change the shape of the sidewall. And it's the tread that needs to remain in the body. 16x8 with -30ET 16x10 with -32ET The tyre tread is in the same place, so arches would be the same for both. And as the tyre will be the thing limiting the lock and on the edge of the tyre, I suspect your steering lock would be largely unchanged too. This is running 15x10 rims. They are Simex 33.11.50R15 tyres, that measure almost 34" tall. So maybe not quite as big as your tyres. Rims are maybe a little oddball, they have an ET of +12.7, so a bigger dish on the back than the front. However it is also running some 30mm spacers, which gives the rim an equivalence of ET-17.3 This gives it good steering lock still and the tyres are 'just' inside the aches. If you are really wanting a 9" rim, then I think you'll have to go to a 17" tyre. In the USA 17" rims are the new 15's. You can get Module and D-Mod Land Rover rims in 17x9 either with an -25 or -32ET.

Sounds like your Td5 maybe isn't running right. You should have no problem out pacing lorries. I've done motorway work in an old 2.5TD 90 and not had issue like that. I'm certainly not denying a Puma is better suited for higher speed work and quitter though. Although I would say I don't like the seats as much. My uncle has a 12 plate 2.2 and the seats are uncomfortable compared to older Defenders. My uncle also has a new 2.2 hard top with the optional seats in. They are very very comfy, but a pricey extra.

A Discovery or a Range Rover. Even one with a Tdi or any newer variants. Both are dynamically superior to any Defender and will have much better NVH, refinement and interior space & comfort.

Lots and lots of great roads. And while we are on the subject, green lanes are technically roads too. So they are not off roading. I did the Strata Florida recently. It was ok, but wouldn't rush to do it again. There were more scenic lanes in the area and arguably more fun ones. For normal Tarmac roads there are hundreds of miles of great roads in the Lakes, Peaks, Yorkshire, North and Mid Wales and loads of Scotland. And lots of nice places inbetween. As for green lanes. Again there are hundreds of them. And few will have driven the majority of them. Magazines tend to publicise many these days. But tbh going with people who have done it for years and know many routes is a good way to learn. Also it generally wouldn't be advisable to lane on your own.

Guess it depends how legal you want to be. Although I suspect running a 12.50 tyre on a 8j rim not supported by the tyre maker is enough anyhow. Not really sure how a 10J rim is going to require you to need different arches, it's not going to make the tread section much wide, just the profile of the sidewall. But it all depends what offset you will be running.

I can understand lifting it from a visuals point of view. But it'll not do it any favours on road. Even more so the way you plan to do it. My advice would be to rear up on suspension. There are simply better ways sometimes. you can still fit chunkier tyres on a stock RRC. A lift is not needed. My old 3.5 EFI on some MT's.

I wonder how many actually fall over...

I suspect Fridge is referring to: HP = torque x rpm /5252 This means you only need to make the same torque a few rpm higher to get more HP and/or Make more torque at the same rpm to get more HP This is done on the EDC 300Tdi, probably be means of slightly higher boost and maybe slightly altered fuelling.

Very nice looking 88 there RPR, I'd seen the 3rd pic on Pirate I think. I still wonder if I should try the mil/1 ton shackles on mine. But tbh, it goes more than well enough for my needs. And it would be a shame fiddle un-needed. FF - I agree, I don't think ultimate articulation is required either. Which is why I've not really done anymore to mine now. However I would say, it now feels like a completely different vehicle. Far more stable and competent. Don't get me wrong, it went quite well previously, but there is a big improvement in all regards. It also rode the rough tracks very well green laning.

134hp is not correct. I think the auto 300Tdi's had 122bhp vs 111hp for all other 300Tdi's. This was done by using an Bosch Electronic Diesel Control system, where the mechanical injector system was controlled by a drive-by-wire electronic throttle to reduce emissions.

I mentioned the Heyatee kit in my op. Only real issue is the price. But given free choice they are the one I'd go for. But sadly money will play a factor. Waiting to hear back from Zeus, there are on their annual shutdown at the mo.

For oil, use semi-synth IMO. That age of RV8 won't be using pure mineral oil. Weight wise, I agree with the others. But there is no right or wrong really to a larger degree. Just nothing to thin. As for the fuel, do you know the octane rating used in Japan? There are essentially 3 main standards for octane rating. In the UK we use RON, but there is also MON and PON ratings. The fuel will be the same, but will give a slightly different number. PON is sometimes called AKI, which is what I think you use in the USA. It's essentially an average of RON & MON (RON+MON)/2 Anything 95RON or better will be fine. 95RON is about equal to 91 octane USA. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating As for the 4wd system. The Land Rover Defender is actually quite different from your Wrangler. The Wrangler just has a 2wd/4wd selector and low range, a bit like an older Series Land Rover. A Defender actually has a centre differential. This means it is 4wd all the time, even on the street. The centre diff splits power 50:50 front/rear. When you want to off road you'll need to lock the diff. Sometimes people confuse this with axle diff lockers. But sadly Defenders only have open axle diffs as standard. With the diff lock engaged the 4wd system will act just like your Jeep does in 4wd. The front and rear wheels will rotate at the same speed (well the output shafts on the transfer box will). You do this with the small lever by moving it to the left. A light should light up on the dash when diff lock is engaged, normally an orange light. To disengage move the short lever to the right. Engaging and disengaging difflock doesn't have much feel or feedback on the lever. But it should be working. Sometimes disengaging difflock can be a bit sticky. Even to the extent that you have to put it in reverse and sharply reverse 20 feet and slam on the brakes (it normally helps disengage it). But try it first. You can select or deselect Diff lock at any speeds or while stationary. If it's not been used much or ever, it might well need provoking or freeing up. With difflock disengaged you still have AWD, but because the centre diff is open, it will still essentially go to 1wd off road. The advantages are, it reduces strain on the axles for road use. And makes the vehicle far more stable and drivable on wet roads or semi slippy conditions. You need the difflock, because on the road, like your Jeep in 4wd, if you try turning tightly on high grip surfaces, it'll wind the driveline up and likely break something. Because the front wheels need to be able to rotate at a different speed to the rear ones. The short lever also selects high and low range. Pushing it forward will select low and pulling it back will select high. You ideally need to be stationary or sub 5mph to do this. And it may clonk/grind if you are rolling, even at sub 5mph. Again, if it's not been used, the level might be a bit stiff to select either Low or High. There are no warning lights for selecting low. You can leave the main transmission in-gear or in neutral, it doesn't matter. The lever should have a more positive clonk and feel when selecting low or high. If it doesn't want to go into low. Pull to a halt and gentle add a couple of hundred rpm while pushing the lever forward, it sometimes helps. You can use the Low range and difflock in any combo, i.e. High diff open High diff locked Low diff open Low diff locked That's pretty much all there is to it.

Don't suppose you have any other info on those kits? YakYak don't seem to have any web presence. Thanks.

I'm considering looking at some disc brakes, initially for the front axle, but may do the rear afterwards too. Now I have nothing against drums and know that well serviced they can work quite well. But they are more prone to locking individual wheels and really show up a weakness if you drive through lots of deep water. In my experience I've also had a lot more issues and maintenance with drums rather than discs over the years. Does anyone know anything about the Zeus kit? I've done some Googling, but not really found the answers I'm looking for. I'm led to believe the discs are machined to fit the kit. Q. Does anyone know what exactly is done to them and what the discs are originally from? I heard someone say Jag, but know little else. I don't mind the discs needing machining, but what I don't want is to end up without any replacements years down the line. Likewise, does anyone know what callipers and pads are used? The Zeus site conveniently doesn't say. I know these are non vented. But tbh so were the ones on my 200Tdi Disco 1 and they did fine, even with 33" Simex's. I do like the look of they Heystee kits, but the prices are quite a bit more when all said and done. And I'm not fussed about running standard rims or originality.

You do indeed get a lot of 90's/110's on 205's. They tend to be more peppy and often suit the older 2.5TD. But will be less suitable to motorway cruising, although they can and will still cruise at 60mph no probs as a rule. Just noisy and high rpm. Depends on the exact year, spec and model trim. I think 205, 215 and 235 where all standard widths. Might even have been a few wider ones for the optional alloys. All are about the same height however. My p38a runs 255/55R18's as fitted by Land Rover, which are 29.04" tall. Same sort of ballpark. 235/70R16 = is a bit taller at 30.95"

I can add some numbers to this. With a 31.73" tall tyre (235/85R16) and the 1.41:1 transfer box with a 0.83:1 5th -- (standard Defender) 3000rpm = 68.4mph With a 28.91" tyre (205/80R16) and the 1.22:1 transfer box with a 0.83:1 5th -- (standard Discovery 1) 3000rpm = 72mph Very similar. With a 31.73" tall tyre (235/85R16) and the 1.22:1 transfer box with a 0.83:1 5th 3000rpm = 79mph It's also worth noting, there have been several different 5th gear ratio's over the time periods too. Which can also have an affect on the suitability.