Chicken Drumstick

I can only assume you didn't read the relies very throughly. As none seemed to be in praise that I could tell. Like many here I'm a long time Land Rover fan. Currently own 3 1/2 and come from a family that has probably owned somewhere in the region of 50-70 individual Land Rover vehicles. But the newest model of any currently owned is a D2, that was bought new and thus far LR have not produced anything to directly replace it. What I don't get is, why must companies strive for mass market always. There is nothing wrong with making a more niche product and doing it well. Something Land Rover where top of their game. Now they are just rather gash. And I agree fully I see no point nor do I understand why every model must be made to look like all the others. Jaguar, another marque we have owned a lot of. Also suffer this. Their current range is rather tragic IMO and I have no interest in any of them. But then again I seem to have zero interest in the current Land Rover range either. So it is obvious I'm not the target buyer. Guess all I can do is continue buying old ones, Jeeps and other interesting utility 4x4's instead.

I think the answer is pretty easy here. Do you want a get you home setup, or a proper spare that you could run about on? If you only do short distance and are usually close to home, then all you need is a spare with a similar diameter. Then treat it a bit like a space saver wheel. It doesn't need to match or be the same width. If you do longer journeys and further afield, then it would be worth just buying another 15x8 rim and getting a suitable tyre. I'm sure you can find a 2nd hand rim pretty cheap if you look about, and they are only about £50 new anyhow. The fact you need to buy a tyre in either instance, means it'll make little odds really.

You actually have several questions going on here. I'll try and answer some for you . 1. Turning circle. Standard vehicles have steering stops, which restrict how far the wheels can be turned on full lock. The reason being, to stop the tyre rubbing on the front radius arm. That said, the stock position is usually very restrictive. On older LR's the stop is just a bolt, so you can wind them in and out, or even remove them. I think on a D2 they might be a solid pin, but I'm sure you must be able to do something to adjust them. 2. When people fit bigger fatter tyres, it can impact the amount of steering lock you get. A wider tyre will, on the same rim end up having it's inner edge closer to the radius to start with, so less lock. Also taller tyres will hit the radius arm sooner. The easy solution is to move the wheels outboard and wider the vehicle track. This is done by two main ways: -Different offset rims -Wheel spacers They essentially achieve the same thing. And anyone who tells you wheel spacers are worse because of 'x' or 'y', is probably just not understanding what they are talking about. Moving the wheels out will generally allow more steering lock and a smaller turning circle (very important if you compete in trials events). Wheel offsets are quite an involved and complex subject in their own right, and it's well worth reading up and understanding them. But for instance, if you have an 8j wide rim now and replace them with some more 8j rims that have a ET of -25mm from your current ones. Then it will place the wheel in exactly the same place as running 25mm spacers on your current rims. The below is true for both different offset rims as it is for wheel spacers. Improvements: -Visually nicer stance -Ability to retain or improve steering lock -Maybe more stable on a side slope (really this is a very minor thing and would only matter on large lifts) -Ability to run wider/bigger tyres Negatives: -Likely to make the wheel stick outside the body work, which in the UK is illegal for road use and usually not allowed for competition use either. -Can induce more wear on the wheel bearing. But tbh, most cases it will highlight a worn part. Good bearings will likely be fine and last an acceptable amount of time. -It will change the kingpin angle and result in more bump steer. So on and off road it may not steer as well as it did. And may induce different tyre wear characteristics. However, the reality is, most setups are still more than acceptable and often even not noticed by the driver. So be aware of this, but don't stress over it. The only additional risk with wheel spacers is making sure they remain done up. But this shouldn't be anymore bother than checking your wheel nuts anyhow and no more risky. There is a good vid that explains the basics, the vid centres on wheel spacers. But everything they say is also true for wider offset rims. Last up, you mention wider axles. Now this is an option, but will require some fairly major work and fabrication. Many purpose built off road vehicles will use wider axles, to remove the need for spacers or wide rims. But axles are neither cheap, nor a 5 min bolt on solution. Not sure if you compete in your LR, the MSA allow wheel spacers, however some trials organisers don't normally, such as the ALRC. However the ALRC will likely allow them in the close future.

Wow, lifted, cranked arms and 35 tyres, all for green laning !!! shock horror!!!! On a more serious note. 1. What country are you in? 2. With standard diff ratio, transfer box and a 200Tdi, performance in a 110 will be somewhat sluggish 3. Are you uprating any driveline components? 4. What 35" tyres do you have? As many are often no taller than 33" when measured 5. Why 35's? 6. What are you actually wanting to achieve? i.e. longer shocks are only useful if you are after more articulation/flex. This is only going to be useful off road and then only for more extreme types of off roading. Assuming you are in the UK as you say green laning... then you will NOT need extreme suspension for this. Nearly every green lane should be passable in a completely standard vehicle. If it is, then it's probably not suitable to be driving that lane at that time. Remember Green Lanes are actually ROADS, so technically is not off roading either. I'm not against lifting a vehicle. But I would advise doing it: -for the right reasons -and the right way. Far too many carp setups that ride like ****, are rubbish on road and often worse off road than a standard vehicle. I also hope you haven't bought an 'extreme' tyre for mostly on road and green lane use. To sum up. What tyres will fit will depend on: -The exact tyre -The rim -The actual and intended use of the vehicle Driving to Tesco's will not flex the suspension much, so you can generally fit larger tyres and get away with it. If you are doing extreme off roading where you'll be flexing the suspension to the limits, then the same size tyre may well rub and cause problems.

Hi, maybe you could add a little more info????? What do you mean by 'gas'? Are you meaning LPG? What exactly did you remove? Why? Did it run ok previously? Why do the head gasket?

They work fine, my brother has one in his 90. Sure it won't make it like a rifle bolt action or a short lever in something like an MX-5. But it makes a noticeable difference and is certainly more positive. The gear stick also doesn't require as much physical movement, so if you use a middle seat, it is a lot better. The standard shifter is ok yes, but you could say standard anything is ok with every single part of any vehicle.... And some Land Rover's are track cars and even when not, doesn't mean you shouldn't want to enjoy driving them.

so any updates?

Did I read that right, you've used rivnuts to secure the seats to the vehicle?

All you can do here is work your way through the wiring. Check for power at the fuse box and the switch, then at the lights. And of course check the bulbs. If you are getting power, then check the earths. There really isn't much else you can do. If you aren't getting power to the switch, then you need to find out why.

So, can they be fitted without welding?

Should fit no probs.

Many thanks again. Just one more question, your 07 plate. Did that have a rear LSD? I was reading up on an Australian forum last night and seemed to hint that they should. If so, do you know if it was a viscous or ATB unit?

Very useful thank you. So am I right in assuming the "Mk3" was introduced in the UK for 2006? Looks very similar to the MK2 on the outside, but with a different dash and slightly different looking headlights? The model year changes listed on Wikipedia don't tally up with the models we had in the UK I think, which is where I think I'm going wrong... or at least getting confused. Parkers say there was a Ranger with a 2.5 turbo diesel from 1999 to 2006. I assume this is what you are referring too as a Mk2? -- Or is this the MK1 99-02 and the MK 02-06?? http://www.parkers.co.uk/vans/reviews/ford/ranger/1999/ And they then list a Ranger with either a 2.5 or 3.0 TD from 2006 to 2011, which I'm assuming is the MK3? With a facelift maybe around 2009? http://www.parkers.co.uk/vans/reviews/ford/ranger/2006/ Wikipedia seems to split them into 4 models for this time period: 1998-2002 (B-Series) 2002-2006 (B-Series) 2006-2009 (BT-50) 2009-2011 (BT-50) Are the pre 2002 models in the UK a "Mk1"? Thanks. PS. I 'think' I would be looking at 2002 through 2009 most likely based on current prices.

Thanks for the info. Good to hear some feedback. Finding info on the net seems rather challenging for them.

I know we have a nice varied and international user group here, so hoping you can help me with some questions. I'm looking for some general info on the Ford Ranger, the U.K./Internatinal version, not the N. American version. Specifically I'm interested in the older 2002-2011 models, not the current one. As I understand it the Ranger is also a Mazda B-Series but seems to change to BT-50 at some point. Anyone able to tell me what they are like, are they all the same in terms of chassis and suspension? What changes did the 2006 BT-50 bring in? I've seen mention of a 82 and 86mm axle, but don't really know the difference. I've struggle to find any real info out. Wikipedia has a little info, but no UK reviews, which there are few of, seem to offer any helpful detail either. Thanks.

Fuelling. Does it smoke much? The more fuel you can get it, the more it'll burn and the more power it will make. But it will smoke more. I'd say you could certainly push the EGT's quite a bit more more for WOT. A big exhaust will help keep the EGT's down and the flow up. The IC can certainly aid IAT cooling, but won't really promote massive amounts more PEAK power. So I wouldn't worry too much about doing more to it. If you think air flow is restricted, just slap an electric fan on it.

+1 What are you wanting to achieve and for why? There are lots and lots of ways to lift a Series. Some better than others, some not always liked by others, but can work and some that can cause lots of grief.

Just put it on, I suspect the answer. I think they only tell you to mark it up when removing, as it's good practice to put things back where they came from, i.e. put the same bolts back in the same holes, etc.

I can recommend Llama4x4. David has been extremely helpful. Just give him a call and he will sort you out.

Lots of options. First off, you might want to get one of the middle seat, underseat boxes. Would make for a good place for an amp and things I'd expect. And free up room in the battery box. Depending on engine, you might be able to put something under the bonnet. Or if you have a NAS/Td5 fuel tank, then under the drivers seat. Other options would be in the bed somewhere. Or if you don't mind fabrication, you could probably cut a cubby box out of the seat box by the rear door and make a compartment there for a battery. Although multiple batteries often come with wiring headaches and split charging systems. Depending on what you need it for, you might just want to consider buying physically the largest battery that'll fit in the battery box (maybe something off a tractor).

That doesn't sound correct to me. Power should be fairly smooth. Just like any other modern EFI engine.

Or slightly less cynically Sell Defender, buy one of these. You should end up with money in your pocket. So very very cheap as you gain... As for Defenders. It largely depends what age, spec, trim and engine yours is. Along with anything it's had done to it. A V8 pick up will be a lot less quiet than a Tdi hard top. A CSW Td5 or Puma will be much better to begin with. But if you have a Tdi, 2.5TD early Defender or Ninety, with gaps round the doors and no interior trim, then you are starting on a back foot to begin with.

Can't really see a problem with just pulling the bottom hose tbh. It's not as if you need to change the coolant all that often anyway. That said, I'm sure you could be creative with something like this in the bottom hose. Or an aluminium version. Although it might just be another area that could cause a leak.

Or look at a Discovery. Under the body they are very very similar to a Defender. And have in principle largely the same abilities. The only real difference is a bigger body. But the body tub generally addresses all the areas most people moan about the Defender. i.e. space, refinement, NVH, etc.

I don't think they have ever really dropped much below £2500. Not on a regular basis, and those that did snag them cheaper, were likely one off's. BTW - sounds like you are after a Ninety not a Defender...