BLACK CAB

Nige - thanks for the PM. My glass rattled like a b-----d, I had docking rubbers wedged between the panes, not useful if you want open and close them. If you replace the felt seals in the window channels the glass will not rattle . Rod. BTW Bear Mach sell the felt strip.

I have not seen this about, not too many Double Cabs around here & definitely not that colour. Where have you seen me?

Hi Nige, Just nipped out and measured this for you, 4mm glass - mounting holes approx 32mm centre to centre. [/img] Regards

I would also recommend the Halfords Pro Range, I have two of the large socket sets + a lot of additional sockets/ratchet spanners, the first set I brought was back in the 90's and nothing has broken. They also sell repair kits for the ratchets and other useful tools like viscous (fan) spanners. Don't bother with their circlip pliers there not the same quality as the rest of the range. Bear Mach keep the Hub Nut tube spanner, there about a fiver.

Hi Ade, Welcome to the forum. There are a number of members on here either in Maidstone or near by.

If it helps, I had Rhino Alloys on a drum rear Axel, as previously mentioned the washers on the front Axel flanges have to be removed (use loctite). Rhino alloy

I can't see different hoses listed for the 3 & 4 bolt boxes so you should be OK. I think the 3 bolt box is the earlier design, the 4 & 6 bolt boxes seem more common. Edit, I assume you are talking about your 200 TDI?

The 3 & 4 bolt boxes are made by Adwest and are, I believe interchangeable. The 6 bolt box is made by Gemmer and has different hose fittings to the Adwest boxes.

Try filing a soft pencil lead, some thing like "2B". Use a folded piece of paper and blow the powder in to the lock. This can be messy but works well.

Rather depends on if its Diesel smoke or engine oil smoke. Try backing off from a highish RMP and then planting your foot on the accelerator, look for smoke colour........if its black (Diesel) try as suggested and change the air filter, if its blue/grey is the turbo worn?. By removing the restriction (cat) you also reduce the systems back pressure, oil can then pass the turbine seal. I would check this out before tweaking the FIP.

Mark, at least you know how to Time it up now ..........240 deg .

Yes it might be enough to put the FIP timing out.

You did fit the belt with the 3 pump pulley wheel bolts loose? if not the pump timing maybe out. Align Crank and cam pulley with marks, insert pin/drill and loosen 3 bolts on pump pulley. Fit belt and tensioner, tension belt, ensure every thing still in alignment & do up pump pulley bolts. Remove pin and turn over by hand 2 revolutions, check all marks align and pin can be inserted. You can double check the crank position via the flywheel housing wadding bolt hole, look for cut out in flywheel.

You will struggle to do this with the door card fitted . Glue the black isolators to the hinge with contact adhesive, that way there are less bits to hold. Then fit the hinges loosely to the bulkhead. The door is then easily offered up and the bolts inserted through the hinge and door frame. The whole job is much simpler with two pairs of hands.

Other common mods are 360 deg thrust bearings and cut back wheels. In fact all the parts are readily available if you want to re-build it yourself, a T20/25 Garret repair kit is around £80.00 with the gaskets. There's a wealth of info out there, if you need help send a PM. I can send you a pdf with photos. Rod.