Mutley

@Paul C yeah Coke used to do a job but since they changed the formula it's not as effective as it once was, used to be the case if you put a tooth in a glass of coke it would dissolve in 24hrs!?! Another cleaning household trick used to be HP Sauce, smother the metal for a day then clean up like new!?! Good ol' days when we had proper food stuff! 😂

@JeffR Yep that about figures with BMW Drivers 🤣 Any other car makes worth looking at??? Cheers Andy

#ThreePointFive Opinions May Vary!?! If I'm going to use my horn, the situation has already escalated! And if some muppet takes offence because a loud sharp tone has highlighted his/her/they error then so beit!!!.... I would rather PI55 somebody off to avoid an accident and get home ALIVE!!! So Back to the original question???

@Anderzander 🤣🤣 You gonna sell it??? 🤣🤣 That's at least 2 Decibels louder than mine!?!... 40 years of parts storage That's impressive! And NOT even a Land Rover part at that!?! 🤣🤣

Think you will find that part is also metal guys albiet cast metal??? Soak it in Diesel or buy cheap door handle off the Bay and Rob the new part off that!?!

I'm after replacing the horn for something louder than a mouses f4rt!?! I'm after something that is more URGENT sounding and not the twin trumpet type!?! Heard BMW Horns were supposed to be loud and abrupt!?! Are they an easy install or does anybody recommend anything else??? Cheers Andy

Personally I wouldn't bother with the carpet element in the bottom especially as you're using it for work. Chances are it will get wet, smell and rot!?! Me I use 10-12mm horse stable rubber mat (the one with bobbles on one side and channels on the other). Cut to size you need and have the channel side face down with channels running front to back (helps with drainage). It's easy to clean in the motor and just as easy to drag out. Just a word of warning though, the new mat has quite a strong smell that has put some people off using it, but hey it'll last forever and does sound deadening at the same time. As for the rest, I have no idea sorry.

Right have now got fingers FULL of splinters from scratching my head!?!... I remember changing my locks a few years ago and remember sadly they DON'T sell that part as a separate item!?!......You HAVE to buy the whole F***ing outer door handle!?! As it comes as a unit. Sorry

@ Lockylockwood iirc I think there is a very small pin hole and you need to stick a pin in it and push down a spring loaded pin and pull back on the cover at the same time!?! But I have been known to be WRONG!.....The wife tells me often!!! Oops just seen where you said you have drilled it out!.....Not good as it won't locate on the new barrel I fear!?!

Well if the WIFE won't go in it again, the plus side is at least the WHINING Noise has STOPPED!?! 🤣

@fmmv yes I've seen the Mike's videos, always find them informative! Just noticed from Turners Web image of LUF100430 Seal that there's x2 extra holes at the bottom of the casing!?! As there are NO bolts for these on the 300Tdi.... is it as well to fill these with Sikaflex or Gasket Sealant or something???

@reb78 yeah the rear seal's been leaking for some time now, so thought I'd make the most of it if whilst the clutch is being done. As for the rear seal, just read on another thread someone advising to use the one from TURNER ENGINEERING....Which looks and sounds like a quality item for similar money to genuine!?! Andy

@Snagger not seen any mention of Borg & Beck in my search and as for LOF!?! The price kills that idea! If Valeo lasts half as long as the original, it will see me out!?!....The HD Fork kit contains what is shown in the photo, I guess the Brass Ring is the Spigot Bush you mentioned? While it's all coming out I have a leaking CRANK SEAL that might as well be done, any advice or tips on which bits to get or not get???..... Going with Corteco Seals as always but what about the rear seal LUF100430 DOES this need to be a GENUINE part or will the Britpart OE suffice??? Any other bits for this task???

Ok guys thanks for the input!... Will have a look at the LOF unit and see what that comes in at??? @Sigi_H any recommendations for HD Fork kits then as Paddock only does Britpart??? Andy

OK quick update, just spoke to a Very helpful guy at Paddock Spares by the name of Ben.... He informs me they do a VALEO HD Kit comprising of Friction Plate, Pressure Cover and Release Bearing....Part No. DA5551G Then a Heavy Duty Fork kit....Part No. FTC2957HD kit Does all this sound about right???

Cheers for the reply, was looking at the VALEO HD set up...UQB000130 Friction Plate...URB100760 Pressure Cover Not sure on part numbers for the heavy duty Release Bearing and part number for heavy duty fork??? Does ALL this come as a VALEO HD kit if so where at??? Cheers Andy

This is for a 300Tdi 90 year 1995 It's looking like I need a NEW Clutch!?!..... So which one is the BEST to get and what is the part number and where to get it from please???? Thought I read along time ago the 300Tdi Clutch was heavy duty type because of the need to play/ride the Clutch at times, mainly off road at a guess??? Any help, suggestions greatly appreciated! Cheers Andy

@Sigi-H these any good to ya???

@Debender OUCH!!!... I feel your pain lad, regards any mods!?! I would steer well clear as these will only INCREASE the cost, keep as close to it's original state as possible. How many miles a year are you telling them??? As most insurance companies have a threshold, keep it below 4K As for insurance companies give Footman James a try, I find them reasonable but then again I'm OLD!?! Failing all that I'm sure a grown-up will offer better advice. Good luck all the same.

With regards to this Threads Title "Side repeaters with LED light upgrade kit, do they still work?" I would just like to answer with "INTERMITTENTLY!!!" Sorry guys, it was too easy! Yeah i know it's sad, but after 3 months off work and being home alone while the wife goes out to work. Sometimes it all gets too much!?!

To save any future issues and uncertainty I will stick with Ethylene Glycol WITHOUT the OAT! But all information given on this matter is VERY interesting and HELPFUL as always!!! But come next time I need to know all this, you can rest assured I will have forgotten it all!?! 🤣

So are we saying if for whatever reason we change/swap the radiator for an Ally type then OAT coolant/antifreeze can be used???..... Or are there other components within the 300Tdi engines water system it can affect??? At present I'm still running the original radiator, so none OAT Coolant is the right choice for me.

As Mossberg said, same as Mineral Oil can have a similar effect on certain seas and gaskets!?! Hence doing home work on what engine year/model you have and heeding the advice given by manufactures. If some one wants to experiment with various different products and report back their findings is great!?! But i AIN'T doing it with MY motor!!!.....And even when enough people come back with positive feedback on something, I am still sceptical about trying it myself!?! @Sigi-H surely the Radiator IS already grounded as it's bolted to the body, body to chassis!?! Plus that's one hell of a technical way of thinking, way to deep for an old fart like me 🤪 i like simple, but then does raise the question? Why the F*** do i have a Land Rover!?! oh well.

Well I finally managed to get everything back together!?! New P Gasket, New Water Pump and as an added bonus I put on a New bottom hose (PCH119060), the one with individual hose joints and clips. Also while I was at it I did flush the coolant system. As someone made a comment earlier about this having red antifreeze/coolant and it should be blue!?! Decided to check up on this (was pretty sure I had been using the correct coolant but now doubt had set in!?!)....... So I found a couple of things, one being the Colour means nothing, zip, nill, nadda! Manufacturers choose to use whatever colour for their product! The second thing I found which is probably more relevant and important is the type of coolant? From what I found is that 300Tdi engines up to 1999 use Ethylene Glycol and Engines after 1999 need Ethylene Glycol with OAT (Organic Acid Technology). My Defender being a 1995 year engine, I went with the straight Ethylene Glycol and coloured BLUE! Just so i could be in the GANG! 😊 Finally, started her up checked for leaks, all good! Took it for a spin to get up to temperature, came back rechecked for leaks, again all good and heaters worked fine so no sign of air lock. Check on coolant level, needed topping up by half a litre and we're good to go! Thanks for all the help and advice with this guys, cheers.

Yeah was thinking I should go with the GREASE as this is how I've always done it. Think I was having a Blonde moment and again good call guys on the Anti Seize, in this case it will be copper slip. @Anderzander thanks for the advice on the wrist. It won't let me over work it at the moment as the ache and pain get too much and can't work through it! It's frustratingly slow at gaining any progress plus me being impatient doesn't help!?!...Oh and good to see you're still alive and kicking, it's been a while I know.