PieEater3142

Can anyone tell me the dimensions, thickness and hole spacings for the L bracket of a dixon bate towbar? Alternatively is there an easy part number for this? Turns out I'm missing one. I think it looks like the one to the rightin this photo

Sorry, just to clarify, where can i take the positive feed (winch hot) i assume not the middle pin, are you suggesting striping back the input wire to the solenoid and using a feed from that with an inline fuse?

very handy, thanks guys

Sorry, to clarify - I can get 12v off the middle spade on the solenoid? If so will leave wiring as it it and draw from the Winch. At least it means it will only send a signal when the winch has power if that is the case. Cheers for the info chaps, much appreciated.

Thanks Luke, much appreciated. Read somewhere you needed winch in, winch out and winch hot to be run to the cab. Ok so I've wired up my Carling wrong, seems I need to put a 12v feed into the mom-off-mom - assumed that the 12v feed was the third wire (winch hot). Whoops - easy enough to change though

I have been building up my project and it's got to be on the road soon. I have a Kingone winch on my 90 that I was going to swap over (might get a warn one day so will migrate the Kingone to the rear). I am looking as to how to control this from the cab - I have got a single pole mom-off-mom Carling switch and I have run three wires down to where the winch will be. Can anyone tell me how the three wires will go on? I have not looked inside the winch yet but assume it goes onto the solenoid and from the diagrams in the operators manual (http://kingonewinch.com/Product_info.aspx?Productsid=12&ProductsCateID=1631 - I have the TD-9.5C) I believe there are three spade connectors on the solenoid that controls the winch. Do these simply connect on to these spades? Also as an asside, does anyone know if I can move the solenoid off the winch to locate under the wing instead? Cheers, James

Quick sideline question, My project has an unknown lt77 in it, it has a lr recondition sticker on it but not sure what it will be like when I actually put propshafts on and get the car moving (engine is stripped down and rebuilt and starts no problem). Just thinking of worst case scenarios: How difficult would it be to put a defender r380 onto my 200tdi engine if I got the short bellhousing? Could I get away with using the original gearbox mounts etc or would it be better to get the lt77 refurbed again? Cheers, James

Thanks western, gonna cut my fingers up first and see if i can manage it.

So the spring behind the drivers side vent fell out when I overstretched the cable when fitting the heater directional controls. DOH! It is part number 346976 (7) on: defender_dash.pdf Is there any way to re-attach this spring without taking the dash off and to bits again? Really don't want to go down this path... Also how is it held on?

sorry, just to clarify - the rears only fit one model but the fronts fit both? i.e. 90 rear on 90 only etc?

OK so seems like the hole is too big for a 14x25, someone must have stripped it taking it out! Argh, this is not helping me pull the roof down. Gonna try a bigger self tapper, if that doesnt work I'm going to throw a bolt through the entire roof and bolt it on from the outside! Still at least the door is lining up correctly now.

Into the side of the roof from the windscreen surround. Part code is SH106251L. However I just noticed that there is an alternative and as I have a td5 roof you may have identified the problem. Part AB614081L which is the number 14x25. Thanks Mutz, really need to think about what parts I am putting together.

Thanks, quick question on the roof though. I can't find an m6 thread in the roof to screw it down from the side, but the manual suggests an m6x25 to go in there - does anyone know if the roof should have a thread in there?

Ok so update - stupid pigging paint was stopping the J nuts from moving freely and it seems that the casting on the bulkhead meant there was a lip in the top of the bolt hole stopping full movement also. Door is now ligning up properly, just need to get the roof to pull down properly to the windscreen and it will seal. Whoop! Oh and I am now VERY wet! Someone please cancel the rain I am busy

I've tried moving the bulkhead about without avail, problem I have is that the door has a larger gap at the bottom where it meets the rear tub than at the top. And the seal on the roof does not actually contact with the door. I just can't seem to get it to line up. Gonna sit a friend on the roof in a minute and see if it will pull down harder.

Ok so new hinge, seems to fit ok but the door is not lining up with roof correctly. I am wondering if the tub is still sat too high or if the bulkhead angle is not correct. The fact that the gap at the top is fairly consistent suggests that the bodywork is too high still. I made up the brackets for the rear tub to sit on and am now regretting it somewhat as they appear to be a big cause. But before I readjust the rear tub height again, could someone have a look at the attached photos and let me know if my thinking is correct or not? I have taken photos of both sides incase I have missed something but I think the only issue is the roof. To clarify its the drivers side door thats the issue.

Spent hours jiggling it all about, it is a project but I have measured up all the spacings and the door fits when not on the hinges fine. New hinge arrived today - looks like the other three - i.e. not a 5+mm gap as shown above.

I've run my rear loom hrough the chassis. However everything else is ontop of the chassis - breathers (axles, transfer and gearbox), brake lines, and rear winch power lines. I ended up with the seat box (battery box) trying to sit ontop of my power and fuel tank breather lines - everything else was down the drivers side thankfully. From what I can see then you should be OK as it's all on the drivers side but I wsas not a happy bunny when I had to retap cos I had to move some wires to the side of the chassis rather than on top. Oh and fill in the old holes with tiger seal. But stainless p-clips with rubber surround all the way as suggested by Tanuki. Although I have cheated and cable tied the breathers to the brake lines in some places. I got bored of fighting to get M5 screws through two p-clips at once.

Also what are peoples thoughts on removable steering wheels? Is the visual of the wheel missing a good disincentive? Also how long will it take the person I'm not that keen on to circumnavigate that (if it's not in the vehicle)?

Ok so phone won't upload. Here is the hinge they sent me and the gap that keeps appearing and making my life hell:

Ok so i must have the worst luck ever. Called up Craddocks about the hinge and the guy disappeared of the line after i sent him the pic below, sufficed to say their supply of bearmach hinges are now also being returned. So they are sending me out genuine hinges for next weekend. Fifth time lucky...

Well I just wondered. I was looking at a Chevy 350ci or similar block anyway so was gonna have issues with the drivetrain- gonna take me years to put all the next one together but just thought - well why not.... Did worry about the level of electrickery up it. Didn't know if anyone had managed it.

So with one project finishing, I am looking to the next. (gotta do something with my weekends) I want to do a proper off road challenge truck. I love the sound of the petrol v8's but I was thinking surely the range rover vogue engine, tdv8, might go nicely in a 90. Has anyone thought of putting one/put one of these brutes into a defender 90 tray back? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-3-6-TDV8-ENGINE-COMPLETE-2011-VOGUE-SPORT-/280834179039?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4163057fdf Is it possible or am I being daft (most probably)?

sorry, meant the actual eyebrows. http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/Defender--Body%20Fittings/2404/WHEEL%20ARCH%20EYEBROW Wondering if a td5 set will go on a 200tdi without issue?

Also does anyone know if the 'ard cases (http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/%27ardcase.shtml) are worth it