PieEater3142

Sorry to here Andy, I am just finishing a project off (April she will be on the road). I am in the same boat as to what to stop the buggers knicking my 110. I thought of a removable steering wheel. I was also thinking that the mech lock although expensive surely is cheaper than having the car stolen. http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Meck_Lock.shtml Although I really think this should be fitted to the brakes rather than the clutch. Also Si regarding the tracker: Do you need to pay a monthly fee? Or is that it?

Knew I read it on here somewhere: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31642 I know that MTF94 isn't ideal but from that I decided to go with it over ATF. Was this a mistake?

Is there a difference between td5 and 200/300tdi wheel arches?

Mine does this regularly, I have been assuming that there is some excess mud somewhere. If I run them a couple of times then they generally move back down to park position. Interestingly its only when I do that with fast speed though, and intermittent goes horribly wrong (wipers 1/3 way up screen).

Got the same oils for my project. They're all sat on the shelf ready. Looked around at ATF vs MTF and people have said that MTF seems better. Hope so cos the stuff is far more expensive than the ATF!

Yer I had a dig around. Looks like I'm making a custom cover for the fuse box (as seen here): It sits on the far left with the flasher relay. Just gonna have to knock something up to go over it all. Don't really want wood but metal is gonna be dodgy - anyone got a plastic moulding tool

Does anyone know if there is a low profile version of this relay? I have fitted a new fuse box and this bugger wont clear the lid....

I have no prop shafts at the moment, hence thinking might be worth splurging out an extra £100 now and get wide angle just in case Yes proper UJ's are key - I have as I said learnt this the hard way with one going on me at 65mph without warning, car bounced once and then the floor pan came towards me.

Sad times about core - but then it did make my rad turn into a clay oven and overheat on the way home and stop me opening the bonnet - so much clay mud!!! Well I'm not lifting now but I just want to futureproof now rather than buying twice

On the 90 I had to replace the front prop after the UJ sheared at the transfer box end was doing 65 down the M3 at the time, never been so scared in my life. Thankfully I had chequer plate on the floor but there is a nice dent where it tried to rip my ankle off. Only time I've purposefully locked the brakes up and skidded to a stop! Thought if I had to buy some prop shafts then I might as well spend an extra £150 and get some that wouldn't need replacing should I put a lift on in the future etc., Thinking like Ross atm that GKN are the way forward. extra £100 for the Bailey Morris ones

So my 110 is getting there (hope to have her going in for MOT come April - fingers crossed) but it's come to the point where I really need propshafts. The back story here is that my 90 chews through UJ's (despite regular greasing) due to the soft 2" lift - sticks to the road but plenty of roll - really nice drive. Anyway I am determined with the 110 that I will not spend my days changing GKN UJ's every 4-6months. I have been um'ing and er'ing about some gwyn lewis ones for quite a while now but they are REALLY pricey. I want to get wide angle propshafts now so that I don't have to worry about it down the line when I stick OME 2" lift (when I can afford it). Gwyn Lewis have Morris Bailey and GKN propshafts but I can't see a great deal of difference in them except the price and an extra greasable bit. The 110 is going to be for overlanding (Alps and one day Africa if I can raise the funds) and green lanes rather than pay and play days (not going to do Core 4x4 down in Hambrook with her). So the question is - is it worth putting Gwyn lewis props on and would I notice any advantage to the Morris Bailey over the GKN ones?

OK so got a new hinge and it still wont line up!!! Argh... However the gap in the new hinge is quite big still. Interestingly, the genuine hinge was britpart that I had although it came in a bearmach box??? Still confused by that one Craddocks but ok... Anyway all Britpart hinges have been returned apparently because of poor quality issues. Just out of interest - they have sent out a td5 hinge although I specifically said I wanted 200tdi hinges (I know the td5 are supposedly better). Anyway spoke to them on the phone and the guy would not accept that h had sent a td5 hinge not the thinner 200tdi style - I thought the part numbers were different for the two hinge types but am I wrong and he is right here?

After alot of fighting and realising that I have a Lucas 126SA (not the one talked about on here) i found that: 5: Battery 1: Aux 2: Nothing 3: Ign 4: Crank Can anyone else confirm this?

magic thanks

Anyone know if these are any good - been looking for top spots for my project (excited as carling switches and raptor dash this weekend - along with bug hunt in the new loom). Was looking at Hella Rallye 3000 but they are a little big (although compact are also available). Just wondered if anyone had them/ knew if they were worth while?

I have modular rims for my 265/75r16's and I think they are 7x16 if memory serves. Think they are these: http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/jc128s_7x16_silver_modular_wheel_offset_positive_8__load_rating_1050kg.php so not that pricey sorry - hijacking your thread but a related question - can I put 265/75r16 on a non lifted 110 or will I hit the wheel arches?

I believe there are optimal temps for running the engine, to get the oil running around nicely etc., Have just fitted an eberspacher to my project to get the temp of engine up quicker (as well as hot air in cab). Engines don't like running when cold as far as i am aware.

No idea, and as this is going to be the third hinge then it has wasted my time, and unfortunately money as I had pre painted the last lot and they wouldn't take em back (that was my own fault for using ebay first time round though)

how did you keep the pressure on it to get it to seal?

So called up Craddocks and explained situation. NEW GENUINE one in post today. Mega impressed. Guy commented that he expected the one I had had more play in it than my original hinges - guess this happens to them alot.

Damn, OK thought I might, but was holding out hope that I could just fit it with a rubber. No chance I can just get different glass and it will fit on the lip then?

I just ordered some of this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390356866180?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Will let you know how I get on but plan on putting it on sides and roof - may also do seat box as well but will wait and see. The sides already have FatMat on them to take the noise down. And I plan on throwing rubber horse matting on the floor and benches/seatbox to further reduce noise. Never know I might end up with a quiet landrover.

I have a safari rear door from a 300tdi that I have cut down for my project, I am going to fit a heated screen into it (determined to be able see out on short journeys). The door has the holes for the ali channel that gets screwed in to hold the glass. I've seen some safari doors that seem to have a rubber on them. Do they need the ali channel even if they have a rubber? And if not is it possible to put the rubber on an older version safari door? Thanks in advance

Yep - that gap is between the two sides of the hinge. Not a good start i think...

Hi there, sorry, not sure if i've explained this correctly. I got one genuine one and one in a bearmach baggie - thought it would be ok. Sent the blue bagged ones back to paddocks when they told me they were genuine. It's the gap between the two parts of the hinge. It's huge on the drivers side and nothing on the passenger side. Not alot of play in the hinge either. I end up with the hinge sat flush with the front of the bulkhead and the door hitting the top side pannel. No amount of wiggling on either top or bottom hinges seems to bring it round properly.