PieEater3142

see page 3 or 4 of my project page http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65212

should this be added to the tech archive? Definitely something I'll b e putting in at some point in the future

also how is the belt? is the light flickering?

reversing switch on back of gearbox? just a thought but I could be very wrong.

with the raptor dash you need to crack out the jig saw to cut out the dash a bit which is steel (well mine is) and you want to watch for the sprung clips around the area you need to cut - destroyed a blade before i noticed it was there. But simple enough and a good template for cutting out

concur with western as it's with the blue/orange and blue/black etc - thats your main beam toggle and indicators (left hand colum stalk) iirc Should connect onto one of these (sorry for the fleabay link - quickest picture) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Indicator-Horn-Switch-Stalk-PRC3875-/220740017046?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3365215b96#ht_771wt_1165

for adding in a radio - yes. On a standard loom there should be some bullets already there I believe, and you need to tap into one of the other wires (as mentioned above) for the constant power so you can do presets.

I went for a raptor dash myself. Really well made bit of kit but might be a bit overkill for just a radio. Phil at Raptor is really helpful and he made a custom job for me. So if you plan on putting anything extra in later e.g. carling switches, it's well worth getting one. As for speakers, you can cut out the two 5" speaker holes in the bottom of the dash and I have used the mudstuff speaker spacers to get the speaker off the wiper motor. Gone a bit overboard and put some tweeters on the top of the dash as well, and there is also an amp and two 6x9's in the back in custom built speaker boxes. Depends what you are going for and if you actually want to hear anything

I adjusted my setup but based it around http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72411 I have a 200tdi setup with an eberspacher rather than webasto, which differs from the guide, but there are some pics from mine on: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65212 I am looking at a twin battery setup - not because it uses a lot of power, but because when you start the engine it kills the eberspacher, which is not really an problem but it's niggling at me....

i've put an eberspacher in my 200tdi 110 - not really necessary but i wanted to have a warm cab. Having been using it in feb whilst working on the car, it has been a blessing (had it on and the car blower). takes about 10 minutes to get up to temp when the engine isnt on and should take some of the load off the engine. Got mine for £400 and that included a electic timer, fuel and water pump and of course the heater (D5WZ). I looked at kenlowe heaters but eberspacher is definitely worth while imho.

note the loose red in the photo right at the front - that was supposed to be on the one with the piddly white and black wire.

as above, if you look closely then the pins are numbered. I think thats the best way. In terms of colour coding I can't remember what they are for a standard 200tdi loom - mine is a custom job so completely different. Look back in the thread and i'm sure someone tells you what all the colours are. here is a pic of mine before I redid the loom (this was after spending time moving them around in the hope of finding a solution so not positive if its correct but it did crank like this) - hope this can help:

Apologies, was thinking of the wrong one. You are quire right. I set the 4 point harness up the same way with both attached to one point.

I'm by no means an expert but I bought Cobra seats with runners and have ended up making my own subframes for them. This has the added bonus of putting the lift on to let the seats run over the back of the seat box giving a bit more leg room. I looked around and there were some subframes for my seats to defender but they were £125! Hence making them myself (four triangles and 4 lumps of 1" box section per seat) and getting a friendly welder to finish them off for me. As far as the harness is concerned, I have 4 point harnesses (never liked having my crotch crushed in a 3 point job when doing an emergency stop) and for those I put both top loops through the rear bulkhead using an M10 - figure that's big enough to stop me. There was never any issues with this setup from the MOT's. That was on my 90 and I will shortly be doing the same on the 110. With all of this you need to remember that you're going to need to get access to the battery at some point so the fewer bolts the better in my opinion, and if you can get it so you can throw the seat over the other side of the cab whilst the harness is still attached all the better.

lol thanks UdderlyOffroad, My schematics are simple, just the implementing that meant it got 'confusing' Western, did you ever get the rear disc conversion sorted? And if so did you need any fabrication tools or is it a case of landy tool no 1 and alot of swearing? Looking at the thread, it looks like you need to knock up some extra lumps of metal in crazy shapes to convert. Is this correct?

I made subframes for my Cobra seats with 1" steel box section and then tapered the ends so you can bolt it down easily without need for a long bolt. Seat clear the lip at the back of the seatbox now so can go back that little bit further (only issue now is the bulkhead...)

grand thanks. Yer think that sounds like a good plan also it wont upset my pretty carpeting and rubber matting (rubber matting is job for this weekend and painting if the weather keeps up)

hmm, didn't realise this - time to seal my roof with good ol tiger seal

I don't have RAVE so was hoping someone would be able to tell me the part number and part to hold my window handles on? At present I have handles with splined holes but no screw holes in the top and the window regulator has a splined output. I believe there is a horseshoe clip for putting these on or something. Can you tell me what parts I need to get the handles to stay on?

Fraid it's not a great pic but you can see the flying earth to the transfer box in this diagram, the other pin is to the black blue wire. Theoretically it shouldn't matter which way round it is as it should only ground out when difflock is engaged and it's a simple switch. That being said just try it both ways as mcc1979ian says, it might ground to the transfer box already (although that would puzzle me some what) cos that would give a short for my reverse switch....

sounds about right to me. and yep black with blue trace as far as my loom is concerned.

Si these are a work of art

Not entirely sure if this is right but: http://www.ashcroft-...od&productId=81 It says LT85's were fitted to V8 defenders and as far as I'm aware these were all LT230's, Borg and Warner were only on the Rangies but I could be wrong (and depends where the engine came from)? Guru's am I right here? What box do you have on there at the moment? As far as Overdrives go, GKN no longer make theirs but parts can be bought from Devon4x4 and you can pick on up for £400-600. However you will need to be careful about the number of teeth on the input gear. pioneer (another member here) went to fit a GKN overdrive only to find that his LT230 was from a V8 and so was not a 1.41 ratio meaning that the number of input gears was wrong and he couldn't fix a different input gear for the overdrive. If you have an LT230 at present on the back of a V8 you might want to check what ratio it is. This is written (but often: falls off, gets covered in mud, burnt off when getting filler cap off etc.) under the filler bung. If it's not there note the suffix of your transfer box and check on ashcrofts: http://www.ashcroft-...od&productId=45 Although this cant guarantee anything as pioneer will attest, his innards were not what the box said on the outside. If you have a V8 on an LT230 it could be the 1.41 or 1.2 ratio (1.2 was on 90's 1.41 on 110), if it's 1.2 you probably don't need an overdrive as 80mph is attainable at about 2700rpm, with 60mph in 4th, at which point most people here will agree, it's better to stick with the transfer box you have. Also just a thought as you say it howls, ashcroft say people replace the LT85 with R380 suffix L as it lasts longer. Is the howling due to worn bearings? Are you looking to replace/refurbish the gearbox or just the cluch? If you're thinking of changing your running gear, best to have a play with this: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html and see what best meets your purpose. Get your suffix numbers first (only the transfer box if you have an lt85) and the size of your tyres and diff ratio - standard is 3.54

sorry wrong colour there - think i doubled up brown yellow on my new loom then. that'll confuse me in 20 years time....

And if you wind it further you will shear the brass fitting (doh - damn my torque obsession). It's not something you put in landrover tight. Had to use an easy out to get the sheared part out of my LT77 (same switch) cos I got torque happy. You may well have a nut on it to set the length which may or may-not need adjusting for the new box.